rashed_s

This might sound sally, but I have on top of the lens case 3 filters, red, yellow and blue, there

should have been another one a clear filter.

Where and how these filters be installed on this lens, please?

I like the Nikon film cameras, I keep the F5 with chargeable batteries and a charger, it is in perfect

new condition, I also keep the Nikon F2A and the F3HP.

I am also having in mind to go for the F6, I believe that we might run out of films one day but by

then who knows what will come in between, some one might come with digital backs for these

cameras as the case with the MF.

I would except having 11 and a wider space ( clearance ) between each frame than having less

clearances, this will make my life for easy when I do scan my films.

The Hasselblad film back, the old type ones some do develop this problem, you need a good

technician calibrate the the winding mechanism.

Although I have the D3X and the Hasselblad CFV-39 along with six hassy cameras, I still prefer

working with larger formats for my landscape work, such as the Fuji G617 panorama or the Toyo

Field 45CF.

For the Hassselblad CFV -39 they did send some tissues, not sure if that was for cleaning the

sensor or something else, they sent me around 5 of them.

I agree that most of the time the meter would give an appreciate, yet I do bracketing, this is to

make sure that I do have the proper exposure values before leaving that place, I do not mind

paying for more films but I do mind to leave a place that I might never be in again, specially while

traveling far away from home and to different countries.

I had only for shots per 120 film with my G617 Panorama Camera, yet I did bracket also, some

times I need to different reading values to form one good image, the lighting of the foreground to

the sky might not been well measured by the meter, there two different reading and two different

captures are must.

Now I have my 30MM Lens, which format is the most suitable to use with the 30MM lens and the CFV-39 digital back, the square format or

the horizontal one and how much of the fish eye effect going to be there comparing it to the use of film.

Thank you and all of the best.

They possibly come and go, here is a link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Autoknips-Vintage-Camera-Shutter-Model-IV-Klapprott-Lampe-

Germany-Orig-Box-/330626661555?

pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cfae27cb3#ht_500wt_1395

I have the split image focusing screen, I got my eyes adjusted to it after a while of use, usually to

see through it nicely I open the lens fully, focus and then set the aperture I need, even with hand

held it work ok for me.

Check ebay, there is small timer fit on the same place as where you connect your cable release,

this small timer will work like a stop watch and when it reaches the setting time you have made, it

will fire the camera, usually they are also very cheap ones to buy.

I cant find anything practical to prove here, usually a person pay for what he need most, while if he

couldn’t pay for it, he should just ignore it and find something else within his puget, Hasselblad

never been made cheap but always been made as a winning horse, is there a winning horse

comes cheap?

All of the best.

You have no problem with you Hassy back, the problem with your films real, I do not know what

they are called in English, I refer the black plastic real where the film is rolled on, these one due to

bad storage and high temperature some times they get deformed and they then do not set

uniformly in you back, if the back had a problem the sign will be with all of the type of films and not

one.

Why not going for Mamiya C330 which is having the facilities of interchangeable lenss if a TLR is

what you have in mind.

Hasselblad makes great flashes to work with your 500 C/M I just bought one used from ebay and it

comes complete with the cable which should connect with your camera via the flash terminal on

the lens:

ProFlash 4504 is the one I got and it is in great condition and around 200 USA dollars with the

shipment.

I understand from Arax web site that they have done some modifications to the liev 88 but I do not

understand what sort of modifications they have to this camera, please?

I have tried Kodak Gold 100, they turned all ok, color wise and they are just normal negative films

to have them processed at any lab, the Ektar might need different processing, although the same

chemical but different temperatures and timing.

I still have a lot of the Ektar films, 35MM and 120 in the frej., I am sure using Slide films are more

better for my landscape specially, but the problem we do not have any lab here to process slide

films, the last time I processed them in small lab in Colombo Sri Lanka and the lab did not do a

good job for me.

I understand, that I can send them abroad to process them via the post, yet I am also scared that

they will be passing many customs checks points and they get scanned which might damage

them.

That why, the negative films as per these regards are much more convenient for me to use, may

be not the Ektar this time.

Many of my friends here do not like the fish eye effect but I did and for a long time, I started with

Canon both the 7.5 and the 15MM, and their images are really beautiful, specially their effect in

darkening the blue colors of the sky as they been with polarizing magic.

For Arsat, I been into the net for the whole last week and I can tell you, the lens is some how luck

sharpness, specially from the corners and also not in a condition to produce good colors, this is

different with the hasselblad 30MM lens, it so well balanced. special glass materials, special

machining and very specialized coating, that what makes it so expensive, will deserve to be so?,

to my poor understanding, yes the price is in within the quality and there fore it do deserve it.

Even the Xpan 30MM lens set which comes with the finder and the centre filters used is of no less

than 3500 USA dollars, thats even some times more expensive than the V version 30MM.

The 40MM is possibly gonna be used more as its equivalent to 24MM in 35MM format, but how

much to use the 30MM is a matter of applications needed and taste.

Keep the films in clean water ( distillate ) with temperature around 40C, maintain temperature for

around 2 hours, then re wash the films with fresh water at room temperature, that might loosen the

scaling.

When you click import on photoshop, thats will open up the actual scanner soft ware, I never had

problem with the scanner soft ware at all, I had problem with the sharpness not been great but

after using the anti net own glass to keep the film uniformly, most of my problems been sorted out,

I scan all sort from 35MM films, up to 6X17CM images.

I think converting colors images to B/W using any digital media will not always work, this will

depend on the color density of an image, shooting B/W film is much more practical and the result

are better, the films comes much less dense and more dynamic range.