matty_jeronimo

<p>160vc and nc are both excellent films. I guess it's probably subjective, but I think their color is awesome, I've always been pleased shooting portraits, landscape, street stuff, anything.</p>

<p>I wouldn't say the SWC are a good measuring stick for the activity of film photography. Lots of 500/501/etc are still being bought, sold, and used (at least judging by my local craigslist and people I know).</p>

<p>Look like separation to me. It probably won't noticeably affect your image quality, but I would return it, given that you bought it under the impression that it was in good condition.</p>

<p>I think Amazon sells it for a pretty good price.</p>

<p>I don't know if the colors can be said to be objectively better or more accurate, but I certainly prefer the look of color film to how my digital camera (A 10D, granted, not the newest thing around) renders colors. I'm almost always happy with Portra 160.</p>

<p><img src="http://mattyjeronimo.com/images/city/norman.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<em>RB67, 90 f/4.5C, Ilford HP5+</em></p>

<p>I like this one because they are peaceful and happy looking (at the moment at least). Also, the pose (which I did not instruct them on) seems very Baroque to me.</p>

<p>Isn't it just a rebadged Fuji Mini 7? And the film is rebadged Fuji Instax Mini. Not actually a new product (if you're talking about what I think you are).</p>

<p>Hi again Mark,<br>

I saw in your other thread the film you were having problems with was Kodak Ektar. This film is an unusual one among C41 films. It is a newer film and was designed by Kodak from the ground up to be scanned and processed digitally; it responds differently than most other color negative films.<br>

Give one of the other films suggested here a try and I have a feeling you may be more pleased with the results.</p>

<p>Most modern color negative films have wide latitude (can still get a good picture if you under/overexpose accidentally), and all C41 films are processed the same (so all are easy to process at minilabs). the issues then are availability and price. my favorite cheap color negative film is Fuji Superia. You can get a 3 or 4 pack of it at your local Walgreens/London Drug/Whatever. My favorite more expensive film is Kodak Portra (comes in Neutral Color and Vivid Color, both are nice). You can get it at any good photo store, or online at places like Freestyle.</p>

<p>"The Launderette" is great. Priceless expression on the guy. I'd be proud of that one if I were you. Good job all around.</p>

<p>Nice shots. A C220 is the first medium format camera I ever used, I love the Mamiya TLR's. The photo of the small dog is great, haha. I like "Lion and Eagle" too, great colours.</p>

<p>Excellent photos, especially the last two. Nice use of light and dark.<br>

Definitely is a light leak problem in the body. The good news is this is pretty cheap and easy to fix. There are a number of places online where you can get the material (self-adhesive foam) to re-seal the camera.</p>

<p>Ah! The Canon (Superia shots) did indeed have a Skylight (1B) filter on the lens. Didn't even think of that! Rookie mistake? haha.<br>

Good thinking SJ.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I've used Neopan expired by 4-6 years with no problems. (1+1 D76)</p>

<p>My monitor is definitely not calibrated. I am planning to do that if I can get ahold of the hardware.</p>

<p>I believe both films were not expired, I bought both of them a couple months ago.</p>

<p>Thanks all for the help. I'll keep at it and see what I can do.</p>

<p>I have seen extremely similar results (slightly more green :P ) with 9-12 year expired paper (in chemistry that's good). Get some new paper. It's surprisingly cheap ($30-$40 for 100 sheets of 8x10)</p>

<p>Hi Edward and John,<br>

Thanks for your input. I am using Kodak chemistry for this, it is the Flexicolor kit with the developer, blix and final rinse, enough to make 1 gallon of each I believe. I'll take your advice on using the cooler to keep the water at temperature.<br>

It also very well could be that I am simply not yet proficient at color correction. I'm working on that :P. All of the stuff I've had developed at labs has been "develop only" and I have scanned it myself, so I do know how to use the scanner and its settings fairly well.</p>

<p>Hi, I've used photo.net as a resource to look up answers to my questions for a while, so I figured I should join and start participating.<br>

I like street and documentary photography and I like to develop and print my own film. In particular, I joined up to hopefully learn a bit more about developing my own C41 colour film.<br>

If anyone's interested, I have some work online at <a href="http://www.mattyjeronimo.com">mattyjeronimo.com</a>.<br>

-Matty</p>

<p>Highly unscientific (only one case and all), but I dropped my 10D and 50/1.8 from about 4 feet straight onto concrete, with no ill effects (other than a minor heart attack, haha)</p>

<p>Thanks Tim. The Superia ones look a bit red to me. I'm hoping someone else has done their own C-41 at home and can comment on what level of consistency I can expect.</p>

<p>last one...</p><div></div>

<p>And some Porta...<br>

(The sky was definitely not green like it is here...)</p><div></div>

<p>Another from the Superia.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi there,<br /> I recently did my first batch of C41 processing on my own. I've been doing my own B&W for a while, and I had access to the chemistry, so I figured I'd give it at try. I did it in a big sink, and manually regulated the temperature of the solutions just with the hot and cold faucets. For the developing stage (the most important for temp control, I gather), I kept it at 100F +/- 1 degree.<br /> I scanned the negatives, and I'm not sure what to think. They look pretty good, but there might be a slight colour cast. The issue is that I am colourblind and have a hard time correcting photos. Could this be an issue with the scanning, is it something with the developing, or do they look OK and I just can't really tell?<br /> I would really appreciate some help or advice on this.<br /> -Matty<br /> (I'm trying to attach a few images after this)</p><div></div>