robert_stig

<p>if youre using the lens as a profession then you should get some kind of warranty. me personlly? I bye mack intl vip diamond warranty for a camera/lens/flash, because doing weddings can be harsh on the equipment at times and the price is so cheap that even if I dropped the lens by accident, it would covered. its an all risk type of warranty. </p>

<p>for me, if a cmaera shutter fails, itll cost more than the warranty. I bought the D600 and the warranty costed $167 bucks. much cheaper than a $300+ a shutter replacement would cost and I have 3 years warranty and impact protection as well. an sb910 flash warranty costed $56. my friend flash bulbs have all died within 3 years and repair costs around $150 or so. so basically $19 a year for complete protection on a flash.</p>

<p>if you dont travel with the gear or dont use it for professional use, then you might get a add on to your home insurance. dont know how much itd cost. personally, for my piece of mind, the mack diamond warranty was the way to go. </p>

<p>D4S nothing less ;)</p>

<p>for high iso, the D610 spanks the D7100. too much smear on anything over iso 200o with the D7100. D610 holds a lot of detail in the hair and small things. </p>

<p>I think the 180mm 2.8 also has its apertures open without glass covering the rear. it also has a shape similar to the 24x36 instead of the usual round we are familiar with.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>No way am I going to let Nikon or anyone else monkey with it until it is time for a check-and-clean.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>thats my worry exactly. Im a firm believer that anything opened after its production, things seems to affect something else. and this for anything. not always true but many times it is.</p>

<p>will do the basic white sheet test and see how that goes. dont care for dust, oil is my concern. but I also shoot open apertures so shouldnt affect me. </p>

<p>Im more concerned with the mount tightness than anything. its almost like a soft grind to it. not a smooth turn. </p>

<p>cheers.</p>

Well the camera is pretty new. How do I test for oil spots? I havent cleaned the sensor yet. About 3500 clicks so. I could

dunk it in the ocean and it would be repaired. As of now the only issue i have is mounting lenses is VERY tight and not

consitant. Certain parts of the turn are tight and needs more force to move it.

<p>cheap is expensive. seems suspicious. if anything id buy from ebay since I have paypal protection. but $300 less seems fishy. if it were $100 less, then ok. but $300...</p>

<p>I live in the middle east. I didnt buy it from the nikon importer in my country but a regular vendor who im guessing is selling grey. actually, the vast majority dont buy from the importer here. the price is just too crazy. just wondering if im covered as well. I do have the mack vip diamond warranty which is an all risk type insurance. so basically they would repair anything thats needed.</p>

<p>Just saw the cable for the grip now. I dont know what to say but I think there could be a potential problem. maybe the connector will get tired and loose and a hit to the side would cause problems. but there are no other options for it. did nikon release a grip for this?</p>

<p>yes Ralph, I remember myself searching for a solution for faster recycle and more flashes with an external power source way back when in the film days. today with FF and iso 3200+, I have 3 flashes on light stands with 622n slaves running 1/32 power and Its just great. but shooting hundreds of photos, towards the end of the day the batteries get drained and im just tired to do a replacment. so want something that will hold one and till the end.</p>

<p>not really worried about recycle since even at 1/16 power (for formals firing from an umbrella) its fast, but towards the end of the event, the batteries are all pooped out. the formals and ceremony and then dancing, it tires them. </p>

<p>im curious how their sales are today. if those companies even exist. like pocket wizard. slowly but surely PW see their quarterly revenues drop. all these companies were raping people for years. </p>

<p>thanks for the heads up. the new ones are SF-18 not YF-17/18, although not sure about the different numbers. I also work with the flashes with yongnuo 622n slaves. I dont use CLS, which im guessing what they mean by remote mode or even SU4 mode. </p>

<p>that post is from 2009. im hoping they got their act together and have been able to fix the issue. <br>

im going to try anyway. ill let you know how it is. ill order one for now.</p>

<p>@Howard, I recently bought a lot of gear and looking for the cheapest solution. I cant afford something expensive. compared to the nikon SD-8a any of these choices are cheaper but for me $66 +shipping (they dont ship to my country) is too expensive.</p>

<p>there are battery packs that sell for $30. they only hold 6 batteries which I think is fine for me, since I shoot at 1/32 power on the dance floor at the weddings. but I was looking at the yongnuo SF-18 (holds 8 batteries) which sells for around $42 with intl shipping. which I think is the correct route for my pocket. I still have some gear to buy to get up to par.<br /> http://thephotogadget.com/content/yongnuo-sf-18-flash-battery-pack-nikon-sb-800-nikon-sd-8a-compatible</p>

<p>@Shun, I figured what the seller was saying was fishy so wanted to ask before hand. to me it makes sense that the camera doesnt have anything to do with the flash getting power from the BP but the sync cord made it suspicious because I thought it needed to be connected to the camera. im wondering why the SD8a has the pc cord and the SD9 doesnt anymore.</p>

<p>@Ralph, I have a lot of new 4x energizer AA NIMH packs sitting on the side so want a battery pack that takes those instead of sealed acid type. I also think theres a problem to ship batteries airmail.</p>

<p>@Mihai. thumbs up TY</p>

<p> </p>

<p>looking for a 3rd party battery pack for an off camera fill flash for power for my SB28/SB800. id like to use them on light stands and wireless slaves. it has one cable to the front power connector and the a pc sync cable to connect to the side pc sync of the flash im guessing.</p>

<p>the person says the battery pack wont power a flash that isnt on a camera. doesnt sound logical so im asking.</p>

<p>can the nikon SD-8A power a flash if its sitting off camera or must it sit on the camera also?</p>

<p>didnt know power to the flash has anything to do with it mounted on a camera.<br /> thank you</p>

<blockquote>

<p>if there is an overheat issue, perhaps Nikon should have an overheat sensor to prevent the camera from shooting if the shutter mechanism gets too hot. Something like the SB-900 has! See how well that worked out, LOL!</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Real well! haha</p>

<p>regarding OP, we have to accept what he says at face value but no one knows. it seems to me the camera had a hard life. im not 100% certain that the info on the shooting data is exactly like he says. something is suspicious and iffy. I would say that he should be happy with 66k</p>

<blockquote>

<p>The problem is that the OP has been using this particular D7000 in burst mode frequently photographing swim meets, and it was on loan to someone who was apparently also using it in burst mode when the shutter failure occurred. When a consumer-grade camera such as the D7000 is frequently under stress, it should surprise no one that its shutter fails much sooner than the rated 150K actuations.<br /> Whether (1) it was the OP who himself put most of the wear and tear on that camera and the person who borrowed it happend to put on "the last straw" or (2) the borrower might have abused it without revealing that to the ower or (3) that camera just happened to have some random failure, we will never know for sure.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Exactly. bravo Shun! the camera was worn out faster than it should have been. it was under too much stress and who know what conditions it was shot in. its overall history. who know if it isnt carried underneath a scooter to photo shoots. who really knows. and on the internet anyone can be anyone and say anything and no one could check its validity.<br>

from the info you give, I think the camera was abused throughout its life. but thats my personal opinion. you dont have to defend, just telling what I see from your post. you took it to a humid place shooting it for minutes at a time non stop, over many sessions. it says to me you dont know much about cameras and their capabilities and what you can and cant do with a camera. if it was a pro camera, F5, D3 series, D4 fine, but jeez a D7000? cmon use some sense. when my friend was showing off with his D3s snapping the shutter, after 3-4 seconds I grabbed it from him because I know how fragile a shutter mechanism is. not even a mm thick piece of metal, and its DX as well which means smaller and more friction build up. <br>

<br /> so overall, you stressed the camera, and prematurely wore it out. its logical not to use the camera for these purposes and at the minimum, I would have called or emailed Nikon with a query asking if the camera was capable.</p>

<p>the most I ever shoot my D3 or D600 at CH is 3-4 seconds not 5 minutes. what did you expect?</p>

<p>My D3 laster 650000 clicks and then replaced. my F5's did 350000 and 450000, all rounded off. sounds suspicious that it failed so prematurely but I suspect that the shutter failing was not an accident. I suspect the camera wasnt cared for properly and possible abused, but no one really knows but you and the friend who used it. youre posting here as if the camera was so well cared for but really know one knows. this is just your word. if the camera could speak...</p>

<p>the shutter mechanism is very fragile. I dont think its meant to handle MINUTES of non stop use like you and the friend did. I dont think its meant to handle 1000 shots in 5 minutes. I think it either had damage before or it simply overheated from friction and bent. who knows the cameras history. if it was used in the freezing cold or blistering heat or crazy humid conditions, or where the camera was taken throughout the 3 years it was with you. so I dont doubt the failure was an accident. I think you pushed the camera too far.</p>

<p>I dont know if you ever saw a shutter mechanism with your own eyes, or even touched one. but you cant believe how flexible and thin the blades are. I saw my F5 (its bent and sitting collecting dust) and its so thin, you cant imagine. you put your finger through it without the slightest pressure. you might think its thick tough stiff blades but it isnt. its so thin and fragile. especially in a prosumer/amateur camera. its not meant to handle that abuse. but $400+ sounds steep for repair.</p>

<p><em>He used it on a stop-motion project (for a grant), where he was shooting in high speed over multiple rounds . He took 150 - 200 photos each round. Each round lasted about 3 - 5 minutes. After 4-5 rounds, the camera gave him an ERR message and stopped working.</em><br>

<em> </em><br>

If my friend said he was going to shoot the camera non stop for so many frames, I would point him to the nearest rental store and tell him good luck.<em><br /></em></p>

<p><em>shouldn't the camera be able to handle this level of shooting? I've used myself to shoot full-day swim meets and took more photos that this in high-speed bursts without any problem.</em><br>

<em> </em><br>

yea, you started the killing, and your friend finished it. its not a camera for sports. bursts are fine but crap, youre shooting it nonstop for minutes. not seconds. it heated up and warped. use some brain power. its not a D3/D3s/D4. sheesh. some people. <em><br /></em></p>

<p>Grinding water. instead of wasting time with this nonsense and paying that dumb ass kutcher, how about they invest in QC and better CS?</p>

<p>got it out and installed the eyecup. works well now. Jose, the diagram helped a lot. thank you. Ralph thanks for mentioning the VF curtain. thank you guys. fantastic!</p>

Will try it when i get home. Great diagram!! Ok will try this first before lubricating! Thanks guys so much

Bravo. Will maybe use a drop of lubricant around to loosen it. I have some needle syringes that diabetics use ( not me)

that i bought for small things like this. Will put a slight drop And smear it around to see if tgat helps. Cheers!

<p>I removed the rubber ring that covers the round metal piece that sits in the camera. ill try some vise lock pliers to twist it off. but regarding the rubber eyecup I got. where is the threading for that?</p>

<p>so my understanding is, remove the threaded piece from the camera, mount the rubber eyecup/metal ring on the eye hole. then install the threaded ring I took off the camera to sandwich the 3 pieces together? </p>

<p>the eyecup came with a rubber eyecup and metal band that sits around the backside(not the part you put your eye on. on the D3s there is a rubber ring but its not turning. can I remove the rubber ring that cover the metal ring? I dont see any threading for the rubber cup.</p>

<p>is there an eyecup, the same size with threading on the back of it installed already? meaning, take out the ring on the camera, put it on the side, then just screw the new eyecup in...</p>

<p>ooooh. I must try it. but I want to try it on my 50 1.8D. I dont have any old lenses. I did fix my 85 1.4 AIS. the threading inside was gunky and nasty and I took it apart and cleaned it and ever so lightly lubricated it. I used a drop of wd40 on a qtip and went over the threading, then used another clean one and went over that so it leaves the slightest amount and dirt doesnt stick to it again.</p>

<p>how much does an 105 2.5 ai/ais cost today?</p>

<p>how many wedding videographers you know use cine lenses? out of the 200 I know, maybe 1 has some cine lenses. all use regular click stop lenses and usually adjust the shutter and iso and use it for a first adjustment as needed. im not going to invest in cine lenses. im not shooting video at all right now. just learning that side of the business. </p>

Thats it!! Wonderful link. Ill try it out. Yea!