robert_stig

<p>I was going to say armor all as well but rub it with a cotton cloth very well after as it will leave a light oily film and that will bother with finger friction grip. both my 70-200VR1 and 17-55 AFS are the same with that whiteness.</p>

@Ken Thats exactly it. I need the speed and the f/2.8 gives me the option for a faster shutter should the need arrive and

VR wont help. I dont like shooting at 17 but sometimes i have my back up against a wall in a room and have no choice.

Im not slamming any of the other lenses because I am taking them into consideration but I think the 17-35 is the best

compromise.

The 14-24 expensive and the bulbous element is worrying ill get an elbow on the dance floor

The 16-35 VR looks great but i need the speed VR is more for static objects

Tokina 16-28 looks nice but the horrible qc and sample variations has me very worried. I live overseas and dont want to

the shipping back and forth. And of course the bulbous front.

The tokina 11-16 is a dx lens and at the moment im using the 17-55 afs on the d3 and its not pleasant with the cropped

guide in the viewfinder.

 

After considering al these the 17-35 seems to be the most logical choice by elimination.

<p>I wish nikon made a 16-35 f/2.8 AFS I can deal without the VR.<br>

the problem im worried with the 17-35 is the lens was designed before the digital world and digital needs are different than film. the newer lenses have different coatings. not sure how great it is but photozone showed it having fantastic rez.</p>

<p>dismissing because I need the option of shooting open when I need it. sometimes you have no choice but to shoot at f/2.8, otherwise it will be shot f/4-4.5. I did look at the new one though. overpriced though. Id take a used 17-35 AFS anyday over the new 18-35G for the same price. without a milliseconds hesitation. </p>

<p>and truthfully something else I remembered about the sigma 17-35 f/2.8-4 HSM that I hated was that no matter how stopped down I went, the corners (and im not talking about the extreme corners) were ALWAYS soft. garbage of a lens. for my eyes anyways. </p>

<p>@Rodeo Joe- the QC is my main fear. Im overseas and will have a friend send me the lens. the back and forth testing returning is not something I want to be stuck with. oh, and now that I remember, I bought the 28-80 from a guy from ebay used and it wasnt so good. I dropped the lens a while later in a wedding and sent it to tokina USA and payed the bill but was given a new lens. it was night and day. I dont want the back and forth deliveries which will be costly. <br>

with the used 17-35 AFS I might buy, I will have it sent to an authorized repair place to have it checked out and tweaked if needed. basically focus accuracy and to check the AFS motor isnt going to die soon. internal dust, I can deal with. </p>

<p>@Matt just wondering how sharp the 16-35 at f/4-4.5 is compared to the 17-35 at the same apertures. not many lenses are at their best wide open and need a stop down to see a very noticeable improvement. with the 17-35, it has a stop to improve IQ. VR is not very useful for WA when people are dancing. shutter speed more so and the f/2.8 will help more at times.<br>

I was able to shoot at 1/2 sec shot handheld with my (thank god gone now) POS sigma 17-35 of the tables when I was in a rush. nikon shouldve added it to the 24-70 AFS, not a WA.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>for wedding photography. usually will shoot between f/2.8 to f/4.5 iso up to 5000 if I need to.<br>

between a:<br>

-used 17-35 AFS not much to say about this lens. great all around. but <em>maybe</em> optically a bit out of date? or still relevant?<br>

-new Tokina 16-28 F/2.8. had a 28-80 ATX years ago and all the review hype was really hype. it was not better than the 28-70 AFS that popphoto said it was, so im reluctant to go back to tokina again. but there really isnt anything stellar (besides the 14-24) the reviews say its very sharp center at open aperture and its much better one stop down+. the front bulbous elements are what worries me as people <em>might</em> elbow it on the dance floor.<br>

-Used 16-35 VR 3rd choice. not sure how sharp it is at f/4 compared to the 17-35 AFS though. and I certainly dont need VR. so threw it in just for more options.</p>

<p>cant afford the 14-24 Nikkor, and certainly dont care for the older sigma 17-35 (which I had and was horrible)<br>

and certainly dont care for variable aperture lenses. and the 20-35 is not really optically as good as the 17-35AFS.</p>

<p>what are your thoughts?<br>

thank you</p>

 

They are both 4a's.

But not sure how old they are. A few years i think. Saw "compatible" chargers on ebay. Anyone own a non nikon charger

and use it without issues?

Whats the difference between the 4 and 4a models?

 

Robert, i alologize (not to offend) but i bought a used scooter from someone a while ago and the motor had crank

problems. I no longer buy any used items from anyone i dont know. It wound up costing me more than the scooter itself

to repair. Might have to look into clones. I do have 2 batts though

Just wondering if there is a tray to use nimh aa batteries inside? Just bought a d3 looks like it went to hell and back but bought it for the

price of a d7000.

 

Also has anyone ever replaced the hdmi rubber door on theirs?

 

All I can say is thank god nikon doesnt make condoms.

<p>Some great info Frank. bravo. cheers.<br>

Joe- I think the SB800 can most definitely fill flash an outdoor portrait from 5-10'. more than that and it may struggle on the most brightest day in the afternoon.</p>

<p>Thanks for the help guys.<br>

@Frank-I guess its the red circle to the right of the battery door?<br>

@Rick-dont need it to fire further than about 30'. should be ok.</p>

<p>@Hans- I dont have the gear with me. will have it within a week. thanks.<br>

@Andrew. I dont even need 50'. its for some fill flash for outdoor portraits for my weddings.just 30' at most. have the SB800 close to the subjects while I might shoot with the 70-200. if I hear the flash, great, otherwise, move in closer<br>

@Frank. Okay! thats what I though. I realized the popup flash wasnt fast enough to run at higher than 1/250 so I figured it was sending a (radio) signal to the off camera SB800 to fire and its not the flash strobe thats activating it? or is it the flash and not a radio signal?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Im not going to invest in software now. I have more than what I need. ive been using PS for years now. im very good with it.<br /> 17-55 AFS is like the 24-70/28-70 for the DX cameras. please read the post.<br /> @Marcus. will check the cactus slaves. I used to use simple wein slaves for my big monolights that I shlepped around but want to get some 2.4ghz slaves because I remember the DJ was firing off my flashes and burned one of them because it overloaded.<br /> @Michael -when I did wedding photographer a few years back, I was using F5's. hence my question, what else do I need. not sure what else I need for the digital gear.<br /> I was using film. due note that what I wrote "check" is something ive got. doesnt mean im looking for advice on a lens to get. im simply wondering if im missing something I need like a card reader, or extra batteries. smaller details. <br /> I do need to get a wide angle zoom. but at the moment, im done with lenses. I have a quality set to start with. I could have gone sigma and gotten everything but nothing like the IQ the nikkor pro lenses put. I started with Sigma lenses but after I upgraded the IQ was night and day for <strong>me</strong>.</p>

<p>can either of the cameras fire off the SB800 at higher than 1/250 sync wirelessly?<br>

would like to use the flash for outdoor photography and shutter speeds can get very high. but would like to use some off camera fill flash.</p>

<p>btw, is HSS focal plane flash the same terms?<br>

thank you</p>

 

<p>Marcus - software. not interested to invest more in now since I wont be done bulk editing but maybe some other smaller jobs.<br>

<br />what triggers do you know of besides the yongnuo and PW, which are not in budget.</p>

<p>Dave will probably go for a 35mm first, but right now my budget is maxed. </p>

<p>Hi everyone.<br>

I stopped wedding photography around 2012. gear was stolen. im almost there in egtting my gear in order. not going back to doing solo right away as im rusted up. getting some wd40. will join other photogs.<br>

this is what I have at the moment<br>

cameras-D300/D7000 with grips<br>

lenses-17-55 AFS/70-200VR1/10.5mm fisheye/60micro AFD/50mm f1.8/ 85mm AIS f1.4<br>

flashes-SB800's<br>

tripod-markins Q10 manfrotto 3221<br>

<br /> bags-too many already-check<br /> belt/pouches-check<br /> <br /> memory cards- check<br /> chargers for AA NIMH-check<br /> <br /> software- PS CS4<br /> plugins-just the few I <em>think </em>I need. although ill be a freelancer for other photogs and editing is their choice.<br /> kick azz comfortable shoes and nice threads <img title="Smile" src="http://nikonites.com/images/smilies/smile.png" alt="" width="16" height="16" border="0" />- check<br /> <br /> anything else im missing?<br /> <br /> I used to shlep 2 1200 w/s studio flashes around but its too cumbersome and tiring to find electric outlets all the time. but ive been having this idea to go with speedlights (gelled though for ambient pics) instead. I still have 2 SB28's and thought about getting 2 more (not sure which but basically strong recycle times and strong GN and dont care if its manual only) I was thinking to weld some mounts that will basically hook on the dj's lighting trusses that usually setup in a square/rectangular format around the the dance floor. <br /> to give an idea see this pic. <a href=" </a> I could mount them overhead.<br>

<br /> for the ceremony, I can use those simple foot stands. but I want to try and get away from the heavy flashes (that people knocked down and broke) with the cords and the flash stands. its too tiring and not flexible.<br>

<br /> looking for HSS (FP flash?) slaves (<acronym title="Through The Lens">TTL</acronym>not necessary) that I can use outdoors as well. well see. still shopping.</p>

<p>Tinny shutter sound shouldn't be a factor in deciding a purchase. But I understand what you're saying. I will look at a d300s on ebay. My question to that is people are offering them new with "usa warranty" as they note but am I covered if I need repair? I did filter a search for ebay members with stores...Anyone want to chime in on this please? 300mm (own a 300 AFS f/4) on a dx crop will more than suffice. I've checked it with some friends. I will be fine..</p>

<p>@Keith, Thanks for the reply. I live overseas and have surfer friends so I know there's a market for it. I do plan on selling them cheaper than a photog would in the US. Prints here are cheaper than prints in the US. But yes, they will be affordable . Thanks again.</p>

<p>@Elliot, You're right. the 16-35 would be the wrong lens with that case. After reading some comments by people on the web it seems people were happy with it..I don't want to use the D700's. thank your for the suggestion though. The dx crop will help the 300 AFS get a tighter shot which is more than enough, after verifying it with people, as well as the 4.5 FPS on the D90. Thank you.</p>

<p>@Robert, I have gave it some thought. But not 100% sure. even though I have the CS5000. I'm trying to get away from film. It's too expensive nowadays ..I'm thinking about it....it's workin'. Thank you.</p>

<p>@Daniel, thank you for help. The 300 should be no problem as we don't have <strong>huge </strong> waves here..Thank you.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hello all,<br>

I'm a veteran wedding photog working many years & after a 2 year break I'm getting back in the scene. Anyways, it takes time to get back and thought of an idea I had for a a few years just never had the time to invest in it. Anyways I'd like to go down to the shore (very close) and photograph surfers for money. <br /> I have some gear questions.<br>

I own 2 D700's and don't want to use those for beach photos. So I thought to get the D90. I did think about getting the D300 but the High ISO is better on than D90 and image is all that matters. As well as dealing with the sand I wI realize the D300 has higher FPS but 4.5 is more than enough IMO. Couple that with my 300 f4AFS or 80-200AFS I think I should be able to get great shots. Anyways the other part of my gear question is about being able to get the camera and my 16-35VR lens in the water. Not deep diving but skimming the surface for some different perspectives. I was thinking about a case I saw on Ebay. I can't post the link but I searched google and the first link should do:<br>

<a href="http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=4a2&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&q=UNDERWATER+WATERPROOF+HOUSING+CASE+4+NIKON+D90+ebay&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=">http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=4a2&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&q=UNDERWATER+WATERPROOF+HOUSING+CASE+4+NIKON+D90+ebay&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=</a><br>

I'd post the results on the web for the surfers to access and they can order the prints they'd want.<br>

Can someone recommend sites that will allow me to have a private account to post these?<br>

any opinions appreciated..</p>

 

<p>Well I am overseas so that's what I did. Most photogs dont use anything for additional fill.<br>

<a href="http://www.bogenimaging.us/Jahia/site/bius/pid/6780?kindOfProductCollectionRequest=productDetail&productCode=175F&productDescription=SPRING%20CLAMP%20W/SHOEFLASH&curBrandId=MAN&market=MKT3">http://www.bogenimaging.us/Jahia/site/bius/pid/6780?kindOfProductCollectionRequest=productDetail&productCode=175F&productDescription=SPRING%20CLAMP%20W/SHOEFLASH&curBrandId=MAN&market=MKT3</a><br>

Is a kind of grip I could use I guess.. But I need something that can also hold it at 90° if need be, and it needs to hold the radio slave..<br>

thanks for the help Andres..</p>

<p>Well I am overseas so that's what I did. Most photogs dont use anything for additional fill.<br>

<a href="http://www.bogenimaging.us/Jahia/site/bius/pid/6780?kindOfProductCollectionRequest=productDetail&productCode=175F&productDescription=SPRING%20CLAMP%20W/SHOEFLASH&curBrandId=MAN&market=MKT3">http://www.bogenimaging.us/Jahia/site/bius/pid/6780?kindOfProductCollectionRequest=productDetail&productCode=175F&productDescription=SPRING%20CLAMP%20W/SHOEFLASH&curBrandId=MAN&market=MKT3</a><br>

Is a kind of grip I could use I guess.. But I need something that can also hold it at 90° if need be, and it needs to hold the radio slave..<br>

thanks for the help Andres..</p>

<p>Hello all,<br>

I'm a veteran wedding photog working many years. I'm in a comeback after a 2 years rest.<br>

I upgraded pretty much all my equipment and I had an idea about a light kit.<br>

I used to take 2 monolights to weddings point them where I needed to get more background fill ,be it alter, dance floor whatever. I had a new idea (for me at least) is use 3-4 sb lights with universal grips/mounts and radio slaves to mount these wherever I would like instead of being restricted with cords and finding a socket to plug them in and worrying about others tipping it over. I though I can shoot them at 1/4 and they would certainly give less light but won't contrain me and give me better options on where to place them as well as it would be faster to setup. I'm trying to move away from the light stands. I'm tired of shleping the flashes and lightstands, so this idea kicked in.<br>

I have a few questions please"<br>

I use 2 D700's with SB800's.<br>

1-what flashes to buy? I thought I could buy some sb28's or sb80dx and couple those with flash wave 2 pro kits? Thoughts that came to my mind was the amount of shots I could get with this setup. I would probably have to replace the batteries 1-2 more times throughout the event.<br>

2-What grips can I use? maybe to mount it on the dj/band stage somewhere.. Like the NBA photogs who mount their flashes overhead the baskets. I could use gaffers/duct tape to mount to things the grip can't if need be.<br>

Shoot at moderately high ISo and get well balanced shots..<br>

Am I missing something?<br>

Any opinions appreciated..</p>