brian_donaldson3

Fuji X100 250 f/8

So I went ahead and got one. Works great. No issues with TTL. I do appreciate all the answers. Normally I would use a light meter and off camera flash. But sometimes I want a quick shot and the internal flash either has too much or not enough depending on the subject. Again, thanks.

Thanks rodeo_joe. TTL has its quirks. The camera and its internal flash are good, but sometimes I might need a little more light. I want the camera to control that light. I have a lot of flashes but not compatible with the Fuji.

Fuji X-100

I didn't see a seperate forum for the X100 so forgive me if I place my question here. I have the first iteration of the X100. Love this little guy. Takes great photos. But the flash is wanting. So I am looking for a third party flash. I see the Godox TT350F is small and light weight which is perfect for the X100. The specs say it will work with the T and F model. Not sure what the major difference between the models when it comes to external flash. Before I run off and waste money on something that might not work, is there anyone here with the first release X100 using the TT350F? If so can you confirm the TTL status? If you have a different flash, i.e. Nissin, Neewer, or whatever, can you tell me what you have and if it works in TTL mode. Not interested in a Fuji flash, they are a little on the high price side. I know, you get what you pay for. Thanks in advance. Brian D

Update... I know this has been over a year, but closure is important. I found the part at Pro Camera Repair. It cost $6 and change to $3 and change for shipping. The part is actually for the AT-X Pro lens. I have that lens and I checked to see if it would fit on my older lens. It does. Whoot! Sorry to revive an old thread, but like I said, closure. Again, thanks to everyone for your help and advise.

ROFLMAO... Live View. I completely forgot about that feature. Sorry guys, my main gear is Canon. I wanted the Nikon so that I could be ambidextrous photography wise. I think I should spend a little more time with the D700. I just tried the focus via LV and the camera's zoom feature. Focus was snot on. Brilliant. My faith in oxygen has been restored. LOL Thanks tons for your help

Thanks for that info. I tried once before with AF Fine Tune but gave up on it. I just started again. But will probably give up again. You do make a fine point about zoom and focus issues. I will just keep shooting around f8 or so. I am not following what your are saying in the quote above. Can you elaborate?

Thanks ShunCheung. I think I would have a better understanding if I knew what was happening. Is the compensation stored in the camera or in the lens' CPU? And yes, the lens is registered twice in my camera. I just select which offset I want to use by selecting the save parameters.

Seems I am getting some back focus from my Tokina AT-X Pro 28-70 f2.8. I have download some test charts and ran some tests and the results are the same. Better focus above my focus point. To try and compensate, I went into the AF Fine Tune on my D700. The camera recognizes that I am using a Tokina lens. I turn on the AF Fine Tune and do some test shots. I get the same results as if the AF Fine Tune is turned off. I adjust in the positive side and the negative side. I really do not see any difference. I am wondering (out loud here) if the AF Fine Tune is just for Nikon lenses. I don't know. Just a SWAG. Am I out in left field thinking this? The default value is 0 while I make adjustments with, and save the other values. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Thanks

Yeah, but again, you're a stand up guy to take a part off you lens and send it. In the meantime, I will work on trying to weld my tiny part back together. A toothpick amount of epoxy might do the trick (while viewing under a 20x microscope). Thanks again Matthew

My Canon gear came from KEH - very conservative rating system. The camera was rated good and the lens (all L series) as bargains. They really looked almost new. My Nikon D700 came from Ebay RobertsCamera - I have also purchase Canon flashes from them. I think they are really good. My Nikon F and F2 came from Ebay Japan - The Japanese really give more detail about an item and tons of photos. I once received the wrong F2 and the seller was very apologetic and offered a very generous partial refund.

New to me D700 with Tokina AT-X AF 28-70mm. ISO 200 / f16@1/200s

Thanks, Matthew. Got it that is just mechanical. But functionality is important to me.

Interesting enough, I accidentally pushed to slide off the lens today. I turned off the camera and turned it back on (without touching the lens) and the display was ◿F6. I took the lens off, put the slide back on, put the lens back on it stilled showed◿F6. Had to do the remove lens when power is on to fix it. But now it is back to working. Might invest in another lens. Either a newer AT-X PRO or the Tamron mentioned by rodeo_joe.

Agree Andrew. We certainly can conclude that the fE.E and ⊿Fx error were related to communications between the lens and the camera. I did clean the contacts with alcohol and a lint free cloth. So, again, something worked. LOL Thanks again.

The lens is the older Tokina AT-X 28-70 f2.8 with the ø72mm filter ring. So with all this in mind, I can work with the lens in either manual or auto mode. But I would like very much to have the lens in full operational mode as it was designed. So looking for a replacement part for that slide has some importance. If I can fix it I will.

Before "fixing" (if that is what I might have done) it, I would get different readings. 1. When the lens was first attached and the camera powered on, I would get the fE.E 2. After a power cycle of the camera and turning the aperture ring, it was say f2.8 when the ring was on f22 3. Sometimes it would show "delta" F0-F6 Sometimes, and I know this is not good for either the camera or lens, resetting the lens in the mount while the power is on will fix the issue. All this was before I "fixed" the slide. Now you guys are probably correct but I find it interesting that once I put the locking part back into the slot it started working. Possibly coincidence. I know when I have an issue is when I turn the camera on the aperture shows f22. And yes, if I program the camera for non-CPU the aperture ring works correctly in manual. Yep, work around I know. added - with regards to the f22 and slide lock, something has to tell the camera that the lens is in auto mode, yes? I mean, if the lock is not on will the camera function in both modes: auto aperture and manual aperture. How does the camera know that the aperture is at f22? Maybe the AI aperture coupling ring on the body. Did I answer my own question? Haha

I purchased a used Tokina 28-70mm lens for my new-to-me Nikon D700. Very nice lens. However, other than it working fine, the lock for the aperture ring is broken. This is causing the lens to not register with the camera and I get fE.E or some other error. I took the switch off and found that indeed it was now two parts instead of one. It is so small that making a repair might not be possible without a microscope. But it looks like it could be repaired. I reassembled the switch by placing the locking part where it belongs in one of the grooves on the aperture ring. Then I place the main slider on top of that. I think there is a microswitch in the lens that tells the camera the aperture ring is locked because I do not get any errors now. So my question is does anyone know where I might be able to find a replacement slider switch for this lens? Like I said, I could probably fix the switch with some strong adhesive, but it would require some really good optics that I do not have. Any advise is greatly appreciated.

You can also get adapters from battery.adapter@online.nl. He has them in stock and they cost around 16 Euro each if paid via PayPal. Shoot him an email to confirm availability. Frans de Gruijter Zuidkade 161 NL-2741 JJ Waddinxveen The Netherlands

Great that the LR44 works for you. You might want to look for the SR44 to get consistent voltage and longer life. This would be the Silver Oxide version of the Alkaline LR44. Just a thought.

Are you adventurous? Feel like a good challenge? If so... (I know, sounds like a commercial) Get the 675 Zinc-Air battery. It will be smaller than the require 625 frame but it will still work. You will need to also get some 14AWG solid bare wire. 12AWG might work but it is a little bigger, but worth the try. You will then encircle the 675 battery with the wire and solder the ends together. The 675 is 11.6mm in diameter and the 625 is 15.4mm. Use your great math skills to determine the circumference. Eh... what the heck, about 2" or wire should do it. If you make these little rings and sized correctly you can use 675 Zinc-Air 1.4vdc battery all day long. Have fun! Oh... one more thing you can do is to drill out the core of a PX625A battery and use the ring as an adapter. You will need to drain the 625 by shorting the battery with a 100Ω 1watt resistor. Place the leads of the resistor on the (+) and (-) sides and clamp. In about 48 hours the battery will be inert. Drill out the core from the (-) side and clean. Then the 675 should fit inside. There are instructions on how to do this on the net.

If they made Polariod type film at that price I would bite, real quick. Otherwise, $8.50/rl for BW film seems reasonable. @Julio Fernandez, find someone here in the US who will ship to you.

Hmmm. I thought about that but never really looked to see if there were others.

Matthew, again you are correct in the ASA compensation. But not everyone will think like that. It is obvious that you are an old school photographer who is always thinking about the three settings for a correct exposure. I asked some younger digital shooter about that one day and they kind of stared at me. Hmmm... (not so say all young digital shooters do not know). [uSER=2403817]@rodeo_joe|1[/uSER], I retook some measurements before applying the leatherette. The no-load voltage is 2.95vdc at the battery terminals (S625PX Silver Oxide batteries). When the battery is on and there is a load (this is the entire metering circuit), the voltage is about 2,47vdc. This is to be expected. This morning I double checked against a Luna Pro SBC meter and confirmed that the meters match. (My LP-SBC, Minolta IV F, and my F2AS all match for light readings).