pemongillo

<p>I have been printing on CD labels for years and have always found it a bit of an annoying process, because there are usually alignment issues. I finally made the jump this week to some Memorex printable CD's (white surface). THERE HAS GOT TO BE A PRINTABLE CD/DVD WITH BETTER IMAGE QUALITY! I wouldn't give anyone a cd I made for them with the print quality that ends up on this disc surface. I know what I'm doing regarding digital printing and have the best equipment for it. Sooooo, is there a printable CD/DVD out there that actually has similar contrast, tones and colors as the original image? I will just stick with labels if this is as good as it gets. Suggestion? <br>

Thanks</p>

Your my kind a guy Robert. I am an X large format shooter (even built a 4x5). I like do it yourself projects like this. I'll give it a try. Don't seem to be getting anywhere with Monaco specific answers.

Thanks

<p>Patrick, my Monaco print profiles have always been better than anything I have ever downloaded. That doesn't mean they have always been perfect, just better than downloads.<br>

Hello, anybody out there that can take me through the "Edit Print Profile" function in Monaco??I have a Nec P221w monitor totally calibrated out with the included calibration hardware and software. Right now my screen is at 6500K, 100 luminescence, 2.2 gamma and 300:1 contrast. Suggestions? I am trying to calibrate Ilford Gold Fiber Silk on an Epson R2880. Please, no recommendations on a different paper. I like this one. I am close to getting the print correct, but the logic of the “Edit Print Profile” escapes me after the first correction. That’s where I need the help.</p>

<p>I seem to be on the "no answer track" as well Steve. For those above, thanks, but I understand all of that stuff. I need to know how to tweek Monaco EZ Color printer profiles. I will check out the Luminous Landscape link. Steve, I tried to get ahold of B Sanford, but he is down in the Steens until Sunday. I am guessing he will have the answer.<br>

As far as downloading profiles from Ilford, or any other paper type, my Monaco generated profiles are always better.</p>

<p>I have created a printer profile for my Epson R2880 for Ilford Gold Fiber Silk using Monaco EZ Color Suite. Please no lectures on getting new software. I am tapped out from getting new stuff at the moment. The screen to print match is not acceptable to me. I used "Edit Printer Profile" function using Method #1 (the manual says use Method #1 if you’re print does not match the screen and you are happy with the way it looks on the screen). My screen now matches the original print in my hand. I have saved the adjusted profile (same as original name, but word modified added). I guess I don't know what to do with this now. Do I load up this profile in Photoshop (Convert Profile) and then adjust the image to my liking and then print? If so, which printer profile do I use at that point, the original or the Modified? Sorry, but the manual does not clear this up for me and this process has never made too much sense to me. I have only recently developed an interest in color so never really sorted it out before. I am lost. Please help me clear this process up.</p>

<p>Thanks<br>

Paul</p>

<p>Thank you all for your help. I have some good advice and it will be interesting to see where I land.</p>

<p>Thanks Rob. I believe I was in the wrong place. Strange they would do that. I can't be the only one to have missed the difference.</p>

<p>Could be, I didn't know there were two things with the same name. Could you give me the correct link so I know I am in the right place. THANKS</p>

<p>Robert, Wordpress keeps coming up. I have not been able to successfully download it to have a look, but that is something I can resolve if I really want to see it. This might be rumor, but I have heard that I would not be able to keep my original website name (wideawkephoto.com) with Wordpress. That would be a deal breaker for me. Does anyone know if thats true?</p>

<p>Dan, your link goes to a site that lists the software version as 2006. I assume that is refering to the year. Isn't that a bit old, but then again so is Frontpage ?</p>

<p>Hi, I know this is a potential can of worms, but I am at a loss for where to go. I have tried to find the answers to this question before posting this, but nothing but more muddy waters. Microsoft left us old Frontpage users dangling. I know my way around Fronpage, but I have no HTML code writing ability. I know Frontpage coding is in its death throes and I need to move on. However, where? <br>

1. I would rather not start from square one. Is there a service out there that converts Frontpage websites to modern code? I look at my htm files in Web Expression 4 (trial version) and it tells me what’s wrong with my Frontpage codes, but I don't know how to change them. Don't really want to learn HTML now anymore than I did 7 years ago. <br>

2. Regardless if number 1 can be accomplished I need to get up and running on some new software that functions similar to Fronpage for building websites. Expression 4 is similar. Is there any other software out there that does not require me to learn HTML? <br>

3. There seems to be a lot of hosting services now that want you to buy into them doing your sites, but then the site only works on their server and you have to pay a monthly fee for the web editing tools. This sends a chill up my spine! Am I over reacting on this one? <br>

Thanks. All comments are welcomed, even sarcastic ones.</p>

<p>Thanks Ed.</p>

<p>I don't see a reset button for everything in Silverfast. A number of functions each have one. What reset button are you talking about....or is there something on my keyboard?</p>

<p>Just got a new computer with WIndows 7 64 bit. Unfortunately my old reliable Epson 3200 flatbed scanner has no driver from epson to run it. Rather than pay a large sum for a new scanner at the moment, I purchased a $34 download from Silverfast to use in the mean time. My scanner still won't talk to PhotoShop CS 5, but it works. I need to make some new printer profiles with the scanner, but I want all color management off on the scanner. I don't see a real obvious way to do this. How do I turn off color management on Silverfast SE 6.6? Thanks</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I don't want to get rid of my Epson R800. It's backup to my R2880 and is my workhorse printer (text, cards, small photos for gifts). However, I am about ready to dump it. I just can't keep a couple of the nozzels unclogged and we all know how much ink, cleaning takes. Please don't tell all the reason's why I should get rid of the printer....I know them all. A simple answer to the question below would be appreciated.<br>

Have any of you had any expereince with commercial head and nozzel cleaning products ? I have looked at this link (scroll down to the cleaning products). They sell both cleaning fluid and cartidges filled with cleaning fluid. <a href="http://www.inkmizer.com/Clog%20Buster1.htm?gclid=CN_juJfipaYCFRtVgwodz0cMpw">http://www.inkmizer.com/Clog%20Buster1.htm?gclid=CN_juJfipaYCFRtVgwodz0cMpw</a><br>

Thanks<br>

Paul</p>

<p>Selling all of the film related equipement and moving on to digital. This has gone very smoothly. However, I have the above flash and used it on my Contax 645 with a Metz SCA 3801 flash adaptor for weddings and the like. I have no interest in shooting weddings any longer so don't want the flash even if I could figure out how to get it to work with my Nikon D700. I don't know if the flash will work on any digital camera with a proper SCA adaptor. If I can't figure that out, I guess I could just sell the adaptor and flash and say its for a Contax 645. Anyone out there know if this flash will work (all of the functions) with Digital SLRS ? Thanks. </p>

<p>Thanks Jack. I do, however, need to get both a new desktop and laptop. They have gotten very granky. I am not going to purchase new computers just because I am upgarding to CS5. The two I have are definately on their last legs. Just wanted to make sure I was covered for CS5 on the two new ones. CS2 still runs great on my desktop, but its become almost useless on my old Gateway laptop..and no more room for RAM on the laptop.</p>

<p>I have had my last two computers made locally, but I am not opposed to purchasing one already made if it will do the job and I can get it repaired locally. You have already lost me with RAID and over clocking. Don't know what that is. Just want to run my CS 5 efficiently. Unless I have been completely left in the dust with computer technology I think , CPU, RAM and type of graphics card is really all I need. The rest Ican figure out. I would even be happy with the answer to CPU and RAM at this point.</p>

<p>OK, I have wasted an hour poking around the internet including Adobe's website. I give up. I am going to upgrade from CS 2 to CS 5 as well as purchase a new desktop after the 1st of the year. Can anyone please give me straight answers on my hardware needs (CPU, Ram Graphics card, etc) for running CS 5 efficiently? I only do two demensional images and I shoot a Nikon D700 uncompressed RAW 14 bit and I usually end up with 6 or 7 layers when I am finally done with an image.<br>

We don't need to talk budget.<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Thank you, I am now more knowledgable and convinced. Will get a multi-coated polarizing filter.</p>

<p>I am a little puzzed as to why one would need a multi coated filter to put over a state of the art multicoated nikon lens. Other than a "don't get cheap now" response, can anyone explain to me why on earth I need to spend $100 more to get multicoating on a polarizing filter for a $1500 lens?<br>

Thanks<br>

Paul</p>

<p>Thanks. I think the settings etc are actually on the Ilford website. However, the website was not responding a when I tried earlier.</p>

<p>I have an Epson R2880 printer. I just got a test box of the above mentioned paper. I want to make my own printer profile for it. However, nowwhere on Ilfords website or on the box does it tell me whether to set my printer to glossy or semi-gloss. Anyone have any idea which I am supposed to use?<br>

Thanks<br>

Paul</p>

<p>I have had one of these cameras for about 5 years and had only taken one photo with it, with a sheet of4x5. That was the same month I purchased the camera. I loved the way the photo looked and have always planned on messing around with the camera a bit more. The photo is of my then girlfriend and now wife before a Halloween party. She is a bit soft, and I always assumed its because she had to sit still for 14 seconds while glaring at me. This was easy for her, because she was annoyed with me for some forgotten reason. You can’t really see it from the scan, but the further into the background you go, the sharper it is. I just noticed this when I started messing around with the camera this week. I have wanted to shoot roll film in it, but didn't want to pay $37 for a single roll from B&H (think it was B&H). So I started working on using 120 or 220 film. Anyway, I reversed the film pressure plates so they were closer together and cut an old wooden spool with metal ends and clued dowels into each piece. I can slip a roll of 120 or 220 in between. I just count the number of turns to get to the first picture and then count turns to get to the next. However, it is more complicated. As you get more film on the take up side the number of turns needed to get to the next shot lessens. Who knew? Kind of have that worked out now. I shot two rolls, but only one shot was in focus. This puzzled me, so I set up a test and took a shot of a marker at 5 or 6 distances. None were in focus. I noticed a screw on the front standard that adjusted it away from or towards the film plane. What to do? I taped a piece of cleared 4x5 film into the back of the camera and used it as a ground glass with a loupe and dark cloth and adjusted the front standard without shooting film. I then did another test with film and all distances were in focus….at least turn of the century focus. Not sure what project I will use the camera for. I still can only shoot one roll, because when you take it out of the camera the edges are exposed to light so until I figure something else out, I can only remove the film for development in the darkroom. This has been fun.</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks Dan,<br>

I know I will miss it when its gone and would love to keep it, but I can't afford to have it and not use it that much. I am looking at selling both the 14-24 and 35mm f2 D prime and replace them with the 17-35mm. 95 percent of the range I shoot in is between 17 and 35. Environmental portaits mostly at the 35mm end. This could be both my landscape lens and portrait lens.<br>

I had to sell all my film cameras to get the D700 and lenses. I left 4x5 because I was tired of missing shots and because readlyload t-max went away. It was never a weight issue. I drug my Phillips 4x5 all over the world during the ten years I had it. Over the years, most of my 4x5 shots moved from landscape to environmental portraiture. I have taken some amazing portraits with it, but it was always on the edge for f stop and shutter speed. I leave the country allot and got tired of the film x-ray arguments every time I changed planes.<br>

I haven't completely adapted to digital yet and miss my 4x5. I still print in the darkroom even though I shoot digital. I make full sized negatives on my Epson 2880 and make contact prints in the darkroom.<br>

Paul</p>