pemongillo

<p>Thanks Jeff. That's the ticket.</p>

<p>Thanks for taking the time to respond Howard, but unless I'm missing something, I don't see a solution for me in your answer.</p>

<p>Ilford has annoying code like names for their downloaded icc profiles. I found a programe called "Change Description" a number of years ago that allowed me to change the names of Ilford profiles from their complicated codes to something like Ilford Gold Fiber Silk. Well I just purchased a new epson printer (SP600)and downloaded a profile from Ilford and my old program for chamging the name isn't working, keeps giving me an access denied message. Anyone one know how to do this? I haven't done it in several year, because everything was as it needed to be on my old R2880.</p>

<p>Thanks Paul</p>

<p>I got one of these when they first came out. I don't think it replaces the swab with liquid, but on the run and out on the edge of civilization they are great. Well I have had it long enough that I am on my last sticky piece of paper used to clean the soft squishy cleaning head. I can't figure out where to get replacements for the cleaning papers. Anyone ? It does worry me that B&H doesn't seem to carry these products.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>I have had this expensive piece of glass in my bag for three years and have only fooled with it now and again with nothing to write home about. I took it out at the coast a couple of days ago and finally got a photo worthy of a frame. However, I still have a few questions. I have noticed that there are almost always several to many circular shaped flare patterns if there seems to be any amount of side lighting or heaven help me if I shoot with light coming in from above the frame. There is nothing attractive about this when it happens. Is this just the nature of the beast? A lens hood would make the wider shots I like to do all but impossible. Any in site into this or a link to a place that might better help me understand the dynamics of this thing? I have looked at Singh-Rays site and watched Cole Thompsons videos, but he never mentions the kind of flare I am getting. </p>

<p>I want to make a calendar for myself, but the on-line places I have looked seem to only allow square format. I hate square format photos. Are there any online services that allow me to use prints sized by me. I don't want to crop my photos to fit a square template.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>It turns out I am eligible for usaa. Did not think my time in the NG back in the late 1960's counted. I will look into that.</p>

<p>Nope, not military or x military. My homeowners personal property policy covered everything anywhere in the world including insurance for shipping for $8/month. I guess it wasn't real insurance because State Farm dropped me like a hot potato for using it twice. </p>

<p>I don't even know what USAA is, so I'm probably not a member. I am a little cautious about and independent unless I get some good reports. What's USAA and do you have a recommendation for an independent?</p>

<p>I am not getting anywhere here coming up with some suggestions for insurance companies.<br>

I don't care about liability I just what my $7000 worth of gear insured for everywhere I travel in and outside the USA, for breakage, for theft and mysterious disappearance.<br>

I had and add on to my homeowners policy through State Farm, but they dropped me because of two claims totaling about $800 almost two years apart. So an add on to my homeowners policy is out.<br>

I don't need any liability insurance and I don't want to join a photographers association.<br>

Please provide some suggestions for insurance companies that do this.<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>I use State Farm (in California) and have had some of my fellow photographers use it too. I and one of them have both had large losses (new 500 mm on 7D0 dropped in lake) all covered with NO hassle.<br /> You do NOT need to have any other insurance with them.</p>

<p>I just got dropped by State Farm. I lost a carbon fiber tripod in Colombia an Feb 2013 and I had to have my Canon G12 repaired after returning from Mongolia a couple of months ago. Total payout from State Farm was about $800 for both. If you get State Farm don't fill a second claim or you will be looking for insurance again like me.</p>

<p>Great image Norbert. Looks like you could have been vaporized in the next split second, but you obviously survived.</p>

<p>Thanks again for the great flash lesson. Tom Boston my wife as well as everyone else uses rear curtain lash for creating an image that shows movement with a point of sharpness. I have found this produces very interesting results at night...... not complete darkness of courses; streetlights, illuminated puppets, the list is endless. Try it you like it if your looking for something potentially more artistic. The method is full of surprises and of course crap. But it is a tool. Like most tools many can find other uses for it than what it was originally designed for.</p>

<p>THANKS Joe. Well its too late to worry about. I was trying to get my wife squared away for a month in Mexico including Day of the Dead. She just left. Your explanation explains some things I saw in trying to set up her camera and flash. I shoot with rear curtain at night a few times a year and have gone back and looked at the pictures I like. They are all over the map as far as settings, BUT they have never been overexposed enough for me to not be able to adjust them in RAW. Thanks for taking the time to respond....all of you. I am not much of a flash buff, so its always a challenge.</p>

<p>It is ttl exposure flash and no I don't have red eye on. Id rather fix red eye in PS than have the extra flash of light. I have excepted that the flash is going to fire twice. I don't like it, but shooting on manual isn't going to work in this situation. Thanks all. Just wanted to make sure there was nothing wrong with the flash.</p>

<p>I must be missing something here. I have my SB-600 flash on my D7100. I have it set on manual at .5 seconds, ISO 500 and f3.5. I have also tried this on Shutter priority. Why is my flash firing twice. I don't want it to fire when I depress the shutter, I just want it to fire at the end of the exposure. How do I get the first flash to stop? Pictures look over exposed as well.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Thanks Tudor. I have been doing my own conversions in Photoshop for about 10 years. I do very little color. I want the plugin to help me tweak things a little easier and make it less trouble to get some effects that are difficult to do to in PS. Thanks for the pics.</p>

<p>I found a coupon and got it for $129. I guess I was meant to put off getting it. Now I have all the Nik programs for way less cash than I would have originally paid for just Silver Efex Pro. I', a happy boy.<br>

Hi Stephan.</p>

<p>Thanks. I hate to see Google spreading its empire< BUT that is an amazing price for all of that software. I believe it was $199 for just SE pro last year. $149 for it all is amazing. Thanks again.</p>

<p>I have been procrastinating for about a year regarding purchase of this software. I have finally decided to purchase it and I can't find hide nor hair of it on the net for sale anywhere. Is Nik gone?</p>

<p>Paul</p>

<p>I thought I had posted a response here?<br>

So you are saying that you get B&W prints on paper exactly as they look on your screen using a color paper profile? They are just as good as using something such as Epson Advanced B&W mode? Like I said the Ilford downloaded profile was pretty close. The Kodak one was not (the one I made). Perhaps I should download a profile from the Kodak site and see how that prints B&W. This whole subject is only an issue because of my desire to work more on images like the one posted.<br>

Thanks Andrew</p>

 

<p>I still use easy color suit. The target has 264 patches (I think that is what you are asking) and I doubt a program this old takes into account OBA compensation (I assume that is for optical brighteners). The thing is, the color prints look great...just like my Spectraview calibrated Nec screen, so I assume its just a matter of tweaking the print in PS to compensate for the cast just before I print. I am not likely to spend a bunch of money on the newest and latest color paper profiling software and hardware, because I do little color work. I'm still open to suggestions. Perhaps a different way of calibrating for a mix of color and B&W. Don't know. I know the paper profile I used for Ilford came out much closer to what I wanted without tweaking then the one for the Kodak paper. It took just a touch of green for the Ilford paper and about 10 times more for the Kodak to get pretty close to the neutral grey tones I wanted. The colored flames still looked great with that adjustment</p><div></div>

<p>Yes, I understand the paper profile issue. I use two papers: Kodak Ultra Premium Photo Paper for general work. I made the custom paper profile for that myself and Ilford Gold Fiber Silk for artistic endeavors. I could not make a paper profile better then the one downloaded from Ilford, so I use that. Adding green helped immensely for both papers, but I am still open to new ideas and learning more.</p>

<p>Lenny, I tried adding a little green to the image today. The flame still looks great and the B&W is much closer to where I want it to be. Thanks !</p>

<p>Thanks John.</p>