pemongillo

<p>Thanks Lenny, but I don't believe that is the answer to the question I am asking. Maybe the curve to add a bit of green would work to take the purple out of the B&W part of the "print". I'll try that. By the way the flame is the only color part of the print.</p>

<p>I have my printing down pretty well for both color and B&W prints. I let Photoshop manage my color prints with custom paper profiles and I Let my Epson R2880 printer make custom B&W decisions for me. The custom paper color profiles always produce a color cast (kind of purple) if I try to print a B&W image. However, If I use the printer options for custom B&W and the prints look exactly as I want them. I have recently started mixing B&W and Color in my images. I have been photographing fire spinning and keeping the flames in color and the background and spinner in B&W. They look great on screen. However, the purple cast is there in the entire B&W part of the image. Don't like that. Obviously I have to print in color for the flames to remain in color. Anyone have a work around for this problem?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>I do miss the two buttons on the back right of the D700. I had one programmed for focus and the other for spot meter. I will get used to the way its set up on the D610. Again thanks everyone... well almost everyone.</p>

<p>Thanks for your help. I got it figured out with your help. I didn't now what hold meant.<br>

<P>

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Adam Bessler, don't be such an AH. I've been a pro photographer on and off since 1967 and now just shoot for the joy of it. I figure things out on my own, but when I can't, I ask. Don't answer if you don't want to. The world is full of enough negativity without adding nonsense to this fun and informative forum. Get a life, grow up, and stop feeling superior Adam, I doubt you are.</p>

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<p>I just boxed up my D700 to sell and am learning how to use my new D610. One thing that is eluding me is the exposure lock button or the button I assign to that function. On the D700 when I pushed the Exposure Lock button it stayed locked after I took my finger off and stayed locked until I snapped the shutter or turned off the camera. Right now on the D610, it seems I need to keep my finger on the button or the lock goes off. Seems incomprehensible that it won't stay locked after I take my finger off, so I assume I am doing something wrong. Ideas ?<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Thanks Shun and Frank.</p>

<p>Stupidity. I have gotten a recommendation for this place from two sources independent of each other and no one else. That's good enough for me. I'll call them this morning and see what they can do for me</p>

<p>Sorry, I live in the USA.</p>

<p>Recommendations on a certified Nikon repair facility other than Nikon.<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Thanks Dan</p>

<p>By the way, the dirt is on top of the glass not the bottom where it could be easily removed.</p>

<p>How do I get at my ground glass to get the dust off of it ? Blowing air into the body has not worked. I feel I need to take the ground glass out and clean it and put it back. Don't tell me to send it in for repair, I know someone out there knows how to remove the ground glass. Thanks.<br>

Paul</p>

<p>Yes, you can feed it through the back, but the printer never recognizes paper when fed in that way and it just comes out the front with nothing printed on it. Starting to think I need to have it worked on.</p>

<p>Ilford Gold fiber Silk. My platen setting is wide and this problem does not happen with smaller sizes of paper.</p>

<p>I haven't used this printer for 13x19 prints in while. I have printed three 13x19 inch prints in the last two weeks. Two of them have a mark on the leading edge (the first part to go into the print head) in the middle of that edge of the print. It is made by the middle white plastic paper grabber that pulls the paper into the printer (I think that's what it does). Does my printer need some adjustment that I can do, a better technique on my part in loading the sheet or service by Epson?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Well lots of interesting, somewhat helpful and rude comments, but that's humanity. What Adobe is doing plain "SUCKS" for the photographic artist on a budget or the passionate hobbyist. I am not interested in expanding my photography into the commercial area to make more money so I can afford to make the monthly payments and write it off. Photography is one of my passions and I love Photoshop (I am a skilled user of Photoshop and Elements just doesn't cut it). However, I won't use PS any longer when my CS5 stops working for the same reason I won't shop at Wallmart or drink Starbuck's Coffeee.....CORPORATE GREED IS BAD! I don't need all the extra stuff you get for $40 plus per month (that's what it is now, but just wait how fast that goes up....anyone have cable?). I just need Bridge and Photoshop. Paul signing off on this one.</p>

<p>Thanks Stephen. I guess I don't care that much about upgrading to CS6. What I care about is the inability to own my software anymore. That seems to be going away. I am not interesting in renting anything unless I need it for a day or two, like a room or a trailer , or a Bobcat. But renting software is just never going to happen for me.</p>

<p>Scott, I have done the math and for me it is over the top more expensive to rent. I paid under $500 for PS back in 2000 and have only paid about $150 three times for upgrades. That's about $450 for upgrades in 13 years or $3.88 per month. Even if you add the initial cost, it has only been about $8.00 a month....Sorry, but Adobe has given in to serious greed and I fear all will follow. I will learn to use something else when CS5 stops working or go back to the darkroom. Sometimes you just have to draw a line in the sand and Adobe just caused me to do it.<br>

David, the snooze you loose comment was uncalled for. I don't recall getting any infor form Adobe or a news flash telling me this was going to happen. I found out yesterday while looking at a new desktop for my spouse. Yes, I found I could buy a copy of CS6, but for about $600 ! No upgrade available. </p>

<p>Somebody please tell me this isn't happening. I just looked on Adobe's website and was thinking about upgrading CS5 to CS6 and I see the only thing available (forgot the version) is only available for a monthly fee. How greedy are these people !? I have been a Photoshop user since 2000. I'm OUT if this is true. Any suggestions for something as good without the GREED or monthly fee? I want my software here in my desk drawer so I can reload anytime I need to.<br>

Thanks<br>

Paul</p>

<p>Thank you Frank.</p>

<p>Thanks Rich. That helps.</p>

<p>Hi Peter. I guess it is such a new concept to me, none of it makes that much sense. I have to admit that after playing with it for a day, the on line Tablet manual is making more sense. I mainly want to use this for more precise burning and dodging and obviously want to figure out how to set up the pressure pen to help me do that most efficiently. I think its the pressure pen settings that are the most elusive to me so far. I change settings and see little difference.<br>

Thanks for you interest.</p>

<p>The instruction manual for this tablet is pretty useless and instruction on the Wacom site deals with new tablet models. Anyone have any idea where I can find some instruction on working with this tablet and CS5. I have done searches and have not come up with much. I found something that looks like it might work for me for $39, but who wants to pay for basic instruction? I will if I have to. I am getting nowhere fast.<br>

Thanks<br>

Paul</p>

<p>Thanks Peter. I did get the ball head off. I just assumed it was heavier the my other. Turns out it was several oz lighter so I put it back on.</p>

<p>I guess I'll just buy it when I'm ready regardless of whether its a newer version or not. I was very impressed with my trial version. It was for 15 days and my computer was in the shop for 11 of those, but I was still very impressed with the range of looks that I could get in B&W. How those convert to a print is a bit more elusive. I normally just print in Advanced B&W mode with my Epson R2880, but in order to see what you see on the screen using Silver Effects you need to use a paper profile, not a printer profile. I tried a couple of prints with my current color paper profile for Ilford Gold Fiber Silk (my favorite for printing B&W)and I am guessing I might have to make a separate paper profile for B&W. The color profile is just OK for printing Silver Effects images. Must admit though, I am not quite sure how I would make a B&W paper profile for just Silver Effects. I'll figure it out should I make the leap and purchase the software.</p>