monsoonphoto.net
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Posts posted by monsoonphoto.net
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Lots of stock here in Tokyo, where they go for about $2.50. It's the cheapest option for me. I used to shoot XP2, but prices for those have risen about 10 percent to $4.50. Tri-X is about $3.60.
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Thanks again Robert!
<P>
I'm using an AP Compact (bought it yesterday). I was pleased to see how easy it was to load (I was reading a lot of horror stories about loading). <P>
Now, regarding foam -- would pre-mixing the developer help? I imagine if I let the developer sit for a couple of days, the foam wouldn't be as bad.
<P>
Speaking of Tokyo water, is straight-off-the-tap water good enough to use? Or should I get some distilled/mineral water instead? I think Tokyo water is pretty safe -- I drink it all the time. I'm sure I've got water marks in my body. ;-) Dri-Well would help!
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I'll leave out pre-soaking for now. Keep it simple for now.
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Here's another beginner question before I start on my first roll.<P>
Do I have to fill the tank all the way up to the brim, so that there's
no room for swishing around?<P>
Also, what's the purpose of pre-soaking the film? Is this necessary?
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Thanks Robert for your comments. I just bought a pack of Fujidol and will soon process my first roll. ;-)
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I shoot on XP2, Tri-X and Neopan 400. I scan the negs, and if I really like them, I print them
on Ilford paper.
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Robert, here's a dumb question: What's 1+3? Does that mean 1 part developer + 3 parts
water?
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The wrinkled curtains are very common on these; it doesn't affect the pictures.
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Thanks everyone. I guess I'll just shelve this for now. I'll probably reconsider this option later down the road. <P>
By the way, what do these special Leica cassettes do, Al?
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Do any of you folks bulk load your film? I'm considering this route in
anticipation of higher film prices down the road. Based on my
calculations, I'd save about a dollar on every bulk-loaded roll of
Neopan 400. <P>The question: is it worth the trouble just to save a
dollar a roll?
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Btw, I shoot about one or two rolls a week.
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Canon IID2 (a Leica copy!!), CV 28/3.5, Tri-X 400<div>
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Yes, I saw that, but what does it all mean? It's all chemistry to me. ;-)
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"Microfine is a ultrafine grained developer supplied in dry powder package. This formula somewhat resembles a cross of D-25 and Microdol. The developing agent is metol (3-7%). The solution contains a large amount of sodium sulfite (70-90%), some sodium chloride (7-15%), and a small amount of sodium phosphate monobasic (0.5-1.5%) to make the solution pH very weakly alkaline."
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"Super Prodol (SPD) is a rapid processing, push process developer provided in dry powder package. The developing agent listed is hydroquinone (3.9%) which is probably augmented with phenidone or its derivative. The developer contains 70-90% of sodium sulfite, and buffered with metaboric acid (3.4%) and sodium carbonate (3-7%). This formula resembles Crawley's FX-37. This developer is likely to contain bromide restrainer or possibly other antifoggant."
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I'm about to start processing my own rolls of Neopan 400. Here in
Japan, perhaps not surprisingly, most of the major stores carry Fuji
chemicals. For a beginner, which would be a safer bet: Fuji Super
Prodol or Fuji Microfine? How different are they? Are the choices as
simple as "large grain" vs. "fine grain?"<P>
There isn't much information on the Web about them. The Fuji site has
a little bit on that, but in Japanese. Has anyone had any experience
with these two?
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I'm trying to restore a 40-year-old Canonet (the one with the finger winder). This is my
father's camera, and it's been in the family for that long. <P>
The camera appears to work fine, except for the lens, which has quite a bit of fungus on it.
<P>
Does anyone have the instructions for disassembling this camera?
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"DAVID BURNETT spent the dog days of 1963 prowling the drag strips of
Salt Lake City with his Yashica-Mat while he waited for his senior
year at Olympus High School. He has been taking pictures for money
ever since..."
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Full text here:
<A
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Be sure to check out the multimedia presentation as well.
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Not "movie people," but singer Bryan Adams is apparently an M6 shooter.
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Anyone ever consider f.64's offerings? They have bags that are suspiciously similar to Domke's designs.
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If I'm not mistaken, the "recommended" snapshot aperture setting is 5.6. There are corresponding red marks on the distance scale.
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I use iView MediaPro. It's pretty good for what it's supposed to do, but unfortunately is very
"un-Mac" in its behavior. IF you're looking for a cheaper option, try <a href="http://
www.kavasoft.com/Shoebox/index.php">Kavasoft's Shoebox.</a>
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Well, I was using the word "archival" loosely. Scanning it offers me the following: 1) a second
copy of the originals (which are stashed away safely); 2) a chance to search my entire
collection of about 8 years with keywords; 3) and in the process a quick way to send off my
photos to friends.
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I know that digital media won't last forever. But there are benefits, and I'd be a fool to ignore
it completely.
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You may also want to include the Fujifilm Natura in that list. It has a 24/1.9 lens (stunning!) but no aperture priority. It's sold in Japan for about US$280. It's the next acquistion on my list.
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Definitely scared. I scan all my frames for archival -- even the crummmy, blurry, mistriggered ones. That's how obsessed I am.
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A dose of inspiration. Just what this forum needs!
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Contrast is the firyst to go -- especially wide open. Most of the haze I've seen appears on the back element of the lens, and are fairly easy to reach. I recently bought a lens wrench to take apart some of my vintage Canons. It's easy -- and will save you $80-$100 for a CLA.
what film are you using?( Leica M6)
in Leica and Rangefinders
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