mr_marks

<p>I recently purchased a "Quasar 7x" sensor inspection loupe from Visible Dust. Upon receiving the loupe and inspectiong it, I found that there were some spots on the lens which caused some difficulty in differentiating whether the spot were from the camera sensor or the loupe itself. I tried cleaning the loupe with microcloth and lens cleaning solution a few times but they could not be removed. Upon closer inspection it became apparent to me that the spots were permanent lens coating defects. I was not expecting to get this type of poor lens quality given that the cost of this loupe is even more expensive than my B+W camera lens UV filter! <br /><br />I then proceeded to raise a complaint to Visible Dust by email. They asked me to send it back to them using regular post and they will issue a credit note for my postage. I informed them that I had tried cleaning it with microcloth and that the spots were permanent coating defects. The communication style from their customer service seems to be always that of suspicion, questioning me in separate emails things which I have already made clear to them earlier. It also came to me as rude as their question ends in multiple question marks (??). I do not think as a customer who received a defective product, warrants such bad response from them. <br /><br />Upon receiving the loupe, they took seven days (five working days) to tell me that they have removed the spots by cleaning the lens using a microcloth and that they will return the same loupe to me. Of course, I will not accept this as as an experienced photographer and engineer, I know what I was doing. I asked them the type of light they used when inspecting the loupe because if they use room light or a soft light, they will not be able to see the spots, or for that matter any dust on it. I could not accept this and worse still they asked me to pay for the return shipping saying that the customer has to pay for it if he has returns it after 14 days of receipt. I had already informed them in my earlier email that I returned the loupe to them almost immediately after finding the defect and receiving their return authorization number. In fact I received it on Oct 3rd and shipped it back to visible Dust on Oct 5th. Apparently they don't even care to check the facts properly and treat the customer fairly and ethically!<br /><br />I have sent my protest to Visible Dust on this matter and they have not replied. I hope that Visible Dust act in a responsible and courteous manner towards their customers and be accountable for their product quality.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi, in general most references will say to use green flash gel for fluorescent lit environment. I was at this event where where the indoor fluorescent light did not have any greenish tint and was more like daylight to the naked eye. Does fluorescent light have different color temperatures? Should I use a green gel for my flash? What's your experience like? Thanks for all inputs.</p>

<p>I am thinking of getting a set of PW Multimax but I have a concern whether it has the same interference problem faced by the PW miniTT1/FlexTT5 system when used with canon speedlites? Thanks</p>

<p>Dust Aid has a microfiber sensor cleaning cloth which sheds less loose fiber<br>

http://www.dust-aid.com/08dustclothmf.html<br>

Has anyone tried this?</p>

<p>Looks like there are some "welded" particles on my 5D2 sensor. After reviewing the multitude of sensor cleaning options, I'm interested to try out the photosol sensor swab or sensor swab plus. Before that, I would like to get some feedback from users on the effectiveness and safety of the sensor swab. Thanks.</p>

<p>John, there's already a checkmark next to the metadata panel (under windows)</p>

<p>Robert, where can I locate the metadata folder tab? I did select some metadata properties in preferences.</p>

<p>When I want to create a metadata template in Bridge, I'm getting a blank template with no properties to select. Any idea why this is happening and how to resolve it? Thanks in advance!</p><div></div>

<p>Mark, I found some pictures of the Elinchrome liner peeling here<br>

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/657820/0<br>

Does not look very good and some people have been reporting the problem just a couple of weeks into use. I wonder if Elinchrome has fixed the problem?</p>

<p>Mark, is the silver lining "peeling" in the Elinchrome something that could be glued back? Is the silver lining getting brittle and cracking, or peeling away from the fabric due to glue weakening? Could you post or send me a photo of this peeling?<br>

I checked out some videos available onsite and the Elinchrome Octa seems to be the easiest to set up as it unfolds like an umbrella whereas the Chimera Octabank needs individual insertion of metal poles. However grids are available for the Chimera but not for Elinchrome.</p>

<p>I would like to get some feedback on what would be the best large size octobox, taking into consideration the mobility, ease of assembly, durability, and light quality. I see that there are quite a few in the market e.g. Elinchrome Rotalux (speedring design and reflector coating peeling issues mentioned in some posts), Bowen, Prophoto, Calumet, etc. Thanks</p>

<p>Is the "diamond" cloth and vinyl better than muslin i.e. less wrinkling and easier to clean?</p>

<p>What's your favourite backdrop color and material for studio portraits? Trying to get some idea of what types of backdrop I should get for my studio. Thanks for all the inputs.</p>

 

 

<p>I was informed by a friend that his Radio Poppers PX units drain batteries very fast when they are off. He's dealing with this issue by putting batteries in the Radio Poppers just before they are to be used and removing batteries from all units when he has finished the job. I would like to find out if other Radio Poppers PX experience the same problem, or is this only seen in older units? Thanks<br /> <br /> </p>

When I cover an event e.g. a wedding, I tend to use the following modes:

 

Camera mode: Av (most widely used), Tv (for fast moving subjects), M (for flash)

Metering mode: Spot

 

I have tried evaluative (matrix) mode but I find that spot metering gives me better results especially in very contrasty

scenes (e.g. on a beach with very reflective sand background). I spot meter on the subject face. However, it takes a

longer time to take shots with spot metering as I have to meter, then re-frame the shot. This is a problem especially in fast moving events.

 

Please share, from your experience, how you manage your camera mode and metering mode in the field. I hope to

learn from your experiences and improve my technique. Many thanks!

<p>Last pic....<img src="http://photography-on-the.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=455361&stc=1&d=1275651567" alt="" width="984" height="656" /></p>

<p>Another pic....<img src="http://photography-on-the.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=455356&stc=1&d=1275651365" alt="" width="1024" height="683" /></p>

<p>Just after about a couple of months of use, my Optech neoprene strap is delaminating badly. It looks like the fabric layer is not properly glued to the neoprene, or there is a problem with the glue quality. Has anyone tried to glue the neoprene, and what type of glue works best? Is there a better neoprene strap in the market that does not delaminate so easily? Thanks for the inputs!<img src="http://photography-on-the.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=455360&stc=1&d=1275651528" alt="" width="1024" height="683" /></p>

<p>Hi Stephen, my question is how do you gauge how much color correction is needed? Is there a good way to estimate or measure it?</p>

<p>How do you estimate which CTS gel (1/8, 1/4, 1/2, or full) to use in a tungsten lit room? Can the camera white balance function be used to gauge if the correct gel has been used? Thanks</p>

<p>Peter, for storage of bodies and len ses, it is best to use a dry box. Keep the RH% to between 40-50% and you'll be fine</p>

Hi, I would like to direct these questions to owners of Singh-Ray Color Combo filter. I am planning to get one but just

having some concern about its quality and durability, since it is quite expensive. How easy is it to clean it? Is it

made of glass or resin? Does it scratch easily? Thanks for the feedback.

Jim, that's a good point. If I have a regular 82mm screw-on CPL, can I use that in conjunction with a Cokin or Lee filter holder? Thanks

Hi, I am planning to get into landscape photography and would need to use CPL and GND filters with my UWA lens

(16-35mm). Should I invest in a Lee filter holder (and rectangular filters) or should I get screw-on filters (82mm dia)?

What would be the pros and cons? Thanks in advance for your inputs...

<p>What do you think of this book by Michael Frye?<br>

Digital Landscape Photography: In the Footsteps of Ansel Adams and the Great<br>

Thanks!</p>