mr_marks
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Posts posted by mr_marks
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I have a Arca-Swiss Z1 dp monoball head on my GT3542 tripod but I am looking for a lighter tripod for trekking. I am thinking of getting the GT1532 but I would like to transfer the Z1 head to this tripod. Does anyone know if this head will fit the GT1532? Thanks for the inputs.
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<p>I am in the midst of preparing some artwork for publication. I saved an image in TIF format at 1200 dpi resolution. When I checked the resolution of the image by right clicking on it and selecting "properties", the horizontal and vertical resolution is at 1200 dpi. When I open the same image in photoshop and select image->image size, the resolution shown is only 300 ppi. Why is there is a difference? Thanks for any inputs in advance!</p>
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<p>Hi Andrew, yes I did some further check on that and understand it now. The 72 ppi screen resolution was historically from the first Apple monitors.</p>
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<p>Dear Frode, thank you very much for your clear explanation! What I want to do is to publish my photos in Flickr with not too high a quality that will allow others to make high quality prints. <br>
<br />I guess that there are two ways. One is to compressed the original by a certain factor so that it is more "pixelated". In the Image Processor, which Quality setting do you think will be safe?<br>
The other way is to resize the images after conversion to jpg to a certain pixel width and height suitable for Flickr. Can you recommend what would be a safe the pixel width and height?<br>
<br />Many thanks!</p>
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<p>I am using Adobe Bridge to process my raw images and need to convert to jpg at 72 ppi.<br>
I normally do a batch conversion to jpg using Tools->Photoshop->Image Processor and then set my Quality to 5 and also perform an action for watermark. <br>
I found that if I open the jpg image in windows photo viewer or photoshop, the property of the image shows that it is 240 ppi, 3840x5760 pixels, 40.64x60.96 cm with a 1.56MB memory size. <br>
I then tried to set the Quality in the Image Processor to values below 5, but then I am still getting the same jpg image properties i.e. 240 ppi, 3840x5760 pixels, 40.64x60.96 cm but the memory size is lower than 1.56MB.<br>
Why isn't the ppi reducing with a lower Quality setting?<br>
Thanks for any inputs and suggestions!</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>I had recently returned my 5D3 to Canon due to permanent sensor dust spots (8 spots) visible at f22 to f8. Canon service confirmed that the spots cannot be cleaned externally and were internal to the sensor. Canon replaced the sensor and upon receiving the 5D3 back, I was surprised that there was still one spot visible at f22 to f16. <br /><br />This makes me wonder what is Canon's manufacturing specification for dust spots on their sensor? I would think that the sensors are assembled under clean room environment and should have strict particle control.</p>
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<p>Is the Gitzo GC2100 bag big enough for the GT3542LS tripod (with a A-S Z1 head)? Thanks.</p>
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<p>I am seeing the same artifact even in ACR 6.7 <br /> <br /> Really lost on this one, so any enlightenment will be appreciated!</p>
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<p>Hi all, I'm planning to get the Canon 1DX but am a bit unsure about the 18mp resolution. What do you guys think? Thanks for the inputs.</p>
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<p>Hi, I could not find any info on the differences between the Gitzo 3530LS and 3532LS, as well as on the differences between 3541LS and 3542LS. Apart from the higher weights of the 3532LS and 3542LS, what are the other differences or improvements? Thanks for the inputs!</p>
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<p>" I understood that Gitzo was the CF tripod of choice for many, but I couldn't find any objective reason why and I hate their leg locks. I asked questions on here and spent hours searching for any objective evidence to the extent that if I bought a Gitzo I'd get sharper pictures. I looked elsewhere on the internet with the same result. Everyone likes their Gitzos but no-one seemed able to give any objective evidence to support spending twice as much on a CF tripod than I needed. I bought the Manfrotto 055 model in carbon fibre instead for half the price of the equivalent Gitzo, and so far I'm happy with it. But for me, the place I didn't want to compromise was the head and plates. I bought RRS and as I've said I'm enjoying using it and I can see the benefit I get from it every time I use it. So for me I chose to compromise on the legs not the head and I still believe I'll get more benefit that way."<br>
Dave H, what you said totally made sense to me. Thanks!</p>
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<p>Yes, the artifact appears in default setting and all camera profiles. Thanks for your great inputs.</p>
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<p>Hi Tim, thank you very much for your test. I double checked my ACR version and it is 6.0, not 6.6. Could it be due to some improvements in 6.6?</p>
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<p>Do the posterized shadow transition artifacts around the jaw line of the woman I see in your flickr preview at original size show up viewing that same area in the image viewed at 100% in ACR?<br>
Hi Tim, yes, the same artifact shows up in the same area while viewing the raw file at 100% in ACR. I have provided a link for the raw file above. Thanks.</p>
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<p>The raw file can be downloaded here. The same artifact can be seen in other shadow areas as well in ACR <a href="http://www.4shared.com/file/9dBqN59i/_MG_7857.html?refurl=d1url" target="_blank">http://www.4shared.com/file/9dBqN59i...l?refurl=d1url</a></p>
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<p>What I observe is that after editing in ACR and perhaps later in PS, then converting the file to jpeg, the artifact can be seen if the jpeg file is opened again in ACR or PS, but if I open the edited file in Microsoft Picture Manager, the artifact is completely gone. So, it could be some setting in ACR or PS that's affecting the displayed image, but I don't have any idea what could be causing it.</p>
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<p>Hi, I often see some kind of artifact in the shadow region of RAW images when viewed ACR. When I view the same file in DPP, this artifact does not show up. I would like to understand why this artifact is showing up and if there's a way to eliminate it in ACR? In the example below, the artifact can be seen in the left side of the neck. The first image is from ACR, while the second from DPP. Thanks for the inputs!<br /><br />http://www.flickr.com/photos/marksmike/6907696385/<br /><br />http://www.flickr.com/photos/marksmike/6907695799/</p>
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<p>Guys, thanks for the invaluable inputs, and sorry about the photo links.<br>
Tim, I would like to ask you how you checked the luminance noise smoothing difference in the acr and dpp files? Thanks.</p>
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<p>Hi, I was doing a simple comparison between ACR (version 6.6) and DPP (version 3.11.4) and found that there are some slight differences in the processed image quality for CR2 raw files. I opened a CR2 file in ACR and DPP (without any adjustment done in both) and saved the file into jpg format. The converted files can be seen here (dpp first, acr second):<br /><br />http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7188/6902575655_276905da74_b.jpg<br />_MG_3078dpp by marksmike, on Flickr<br /><br />http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7060/6902581713_6aa837b445_b.jpg<br />_MG_3078acr by marksmike, on Flickr<br /><br />Then I cropped a small area out of the two photos for comparison (dpp first, acr second):<br /><br />http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7183/6902537877_d34b640246_b.jpg<br />dpp1 by marksmike, on Flickr<br /><br />http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7196/6902538291_937098bd5d_b.jpg<br />acr1 by marksmike, on Flickr<br /><br />The acr image seems to be more mottled while the dpp image is smoother. I would like to ask the following questions:<br />1) Is it better to do adjustments in DPP rather than ACR, or is there some setting I can optimize in ACR for CR2 raw files?<br />2) I prefer to work with ACR rather than DPP as ACR is more user friendly and offers more capabilities. What's your opinion on this?<br />Thanks for your inputs!</p>
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<p>I just wanted to mention a word of thanks to the really superb customer support from the Dust Aid team! The friendly and delightful customer support staff, Ms Andrea, really makes dealing with Dust Aid a pleasant experience. A big plus to their already strong product lineup. I am using the combination of Dust Aid's Platinum and Dust Wand (with Microcloth) with my Canon 5D2 with excellent results.</p>
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<p>Here's a shot after color temp correction<br>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/marksmike/5871444567/" title="_MG_8777_1 by marksmike, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3119/5871444567_8d0346e981_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="_MG_8777_1"></a></p>
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<p>Thanks guys!</p>
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<p>Hi, I tried out my Lee Big Stopper and found that there is a bluish tint in the exposures. I am using auto white balance. Is this normal? However, it can be easily corrected by adjusting the color temperature.</p>
Initial AF Point in Canon 5D4
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted