jay_drew

<p>JDM</p>

<p >I mean the latter. With my Nikons I have Waist Level, 'Chimney', & of course eye level finders. I don't have any Sports Finders, which if I had one I would like to, try, customizing w/ a swing away high quality (4,6, or 10 power, one that has a 24 X 36mm format) lope. </p>

<p >As an aside, I wish Nikon made a sports/ action finder as cool as the Canon F1 w/ the re-orientable screen.</p>

<p >Thank you for clarifying my question, JD</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Michael</p>

<p >Thank you so much for pointing that out. I had never looked @ EOS in than light, although it's quite obvious.</p>

<p >My thoughts behind the question were different that many of the members are answering. Which I can not blame them. I tried to ask the simplest question to further my thought process on a question that I haven't figured out how, for myself, to ask yet. </p>

<p >Basically it involves balancing these factors: Money; Switching from Nikon to Canon; Having > a half dozen AiS & AF-D lenses; Desire to use film as long as possible; Hands not as steady as when younger; Very few AF-D lenses in longer focal lengths having vibration reduction; Not being able to MF as quickly & reliably as before; No matter how good the AF, there will always be a need for MF, therefore the need to choose viewfinders & screens; An F5 (which i have) is the only film Nikon that makes "G" lenses viable & it's bigger, heaver than some view cameras; The F6 doesn't allow viewfinder choice; All EOS film cameras use all Canon lenses back to ~1987, which would give me across the board f-stop control; But do any Canon EOSs give a choice of viewfinders?</p>

<p >The next question I need to ask, do any EOSs give a choice of viewfinders? </p>

<p >Thank you for all input, Jay Drew</p>

<p >So, would I be correct to say that all EOS lenses have no f-stop control ring around the lens? No?</p>

<p > </p>

<p><strong>Hi all</strong><br>

<strong>Has anyone ever compiled a Nikon chart / matrix showing which features are compatable w/ various lens / various cameras/ various flashes. There are numerious listings of which lenses work w/ which bodies, & which bodies work w/ which flashes, but nowhere have I seen all 3 elements combined. Hopefully, I've just missed it & someone could refer me to it.</strong><br>

<strong>Thank you for any help, Jay Drew</strong></p>

<p>If U ever said what camera(s) & lens(es), U use, I missed it. Obviously U pulled it off & quite well, judging from the shot U posted! If I were the guy in the black outfit, I'd be happy to pay for that photo.<br>

BTW Did U get infinitesimal pay or was it something reasonable, not that it's any of my beeswax. I'm just curious in case I were in a position to do something similar, although I'd have to learn digital photography. (something I got to do anyway) In any case U certainly earned whatever it was.<br>

Best wishes for continued success, Jay Drew<br>

Oh yeah, take your huge earings & buy a good ball head. Such as a an Acurite, RRR, Kirk or other well U.S. made, reasonably priced one. I like my Acurite very much. Or if it already was a well made one, have it repaired. Just try to not compromise & get a cheapo.</p>

<p> </p>

<p >Can't blame anyone for moving out of El Stinko. The Chevron refinery there can be rather odorific & tends to blow up regularly. Who needs terrorists when you have Chevron?<br>

The 6 thousands on Wilshire is a rather high rent district, which leads me to speculate that Nikon isn't going to give as much space to repair & other technical activities, or that they are making so much $ these days due to adopting the no repair parts sales to independent repair facilities.<br>

The result of this, that the only way one has of being sure a piece of of Nikon equipment is US, not Gray and can be repaired is to buy it new.<br>

JD</p>

<p >I can certainly see an advantage to being able to use one's camera as an incident meter in terms of weight / space in camera bag. </p>

<p >What is the difference between an incident & a reflected meter? Two essential things: <br>

1. Physicality. The position of the meter & the direction the meter is aimed.<br>

2. What the meter has in front of the sensor. How it modifies the light prior to the light reaching the sensor, combined with, on some, mostly analog meters, a calibration factor which is built into the position of dial pointer selected place the reading.<br>

Any meter is capable of being either a reflected or an incident, w/ the proper modifications / calibrations, (whether built into the meter @ factory or being hacked by individuals or the aftermarket) & being aimed correctly in coordination w/ the modifications. Except, possibly, very narrow spot meters.<br>

Having said all that, I don't plan on using that option. I usually use my camera in the usual way to determine exposure, but I also carry a Kenko 1100 meter w/ dome & reflection disk, plus a Pentax Digital, because I feel confident w/ the meters when I not sure of the exposure given by the camera.</p>

<p >Again, I hope I have made a useful contribution to this subject, Jay Drew</p>

<p >For what it's worth, I took a Kenko KFM1100/ both a hemispherical desk & a flat incident disk. I first aimed the hemi desk as directly @ a light, then rotated the hemi @ ~ 45 Deg from the light. The @ ~ 80deg. away. I repeated the same parameters except using a flat diffuser.</p>

<p >Here are the results:</p>

<p >Hemisphere: @ 0 degs (straigh @ the light) = 4.7 EV</p>

<p >Hemisphere: @ 45 degs away from the light =4.6 EV</p>

<p >Hemisphere: @ 80 degs away from the light =4.2 EV</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Flat diffusion disk @ 0 degs (straigh @ the light) = 4.8 EV</p>

<p >Flat diffusion disk @ 45 deg away from the light = 4.2 EV</p>

<p >Flat diffusion disk @ 80 deg away from the light = 3.4 EV</p>

<p > </p>

<p >These data were quickly taken, but were double checked.</p>

<p >I believe that this data should provide a useful insight into the questions above about using a diffuser in front of a camera lens as an incident meter & the inaccuracies incurred by not aiming a flat diffuser straight. A Hemispherical diffuser provides a much greater margin for imperfect aiming.</p>

<p >Hope this will be of some use, Jay Drew</p>

<p>I may or not be the only person around this group when Leica introduced the 1st "M". (I forget, was it the M3?) The photo magazines were abuzz w/ talk about weather or not the bayonet mount would ho;d the lens to a close enough alignment to continue the famous Leica sharpness. Some opined that it might do the job for a short time & then wear so much as to cause unsharpness. There were really folks who were certain, I mean certain!, the "M"s were just a flash in the pan, & die out due to lack of sales due to poor sharpness, that screw mounts would continue into perpetuity. <br>

Also each new model of Nikon F that was introduced was followed by howls of how bad it was compared to the last "F". Although not as strongly as w/ the new "M".<br>

Rather comical when viewed from the perspective of almost 60 years.<br>

Best, Jay Drew</p>

<p>Zee laws of zee physics, she ees a cru-el meestress, no? (My bad Hercule Poirot accent is even worse when I try to type it).<br>

I thought it was Jaques Coustau(I know I don't have time to look it up) buy funny in any case.<br>

U just pointed out what confuses me, assuming U are correct.<br>

Thanks JD</p>

<p >Hello all</p>

<p >I understand the inverse square law as it applies to a point source. I believe that it applies to small reflector (@ least @ a reasonable distance from the reflector. What I'm not @ all clear about is how or if it apples to Fresnel lenses, parabolic, & highly confined reflectors such as a "BETTER BEEMER FLASH EXTENDER"? From my knowledge of sound travel, I'm guessing that their is a near field, that after the near field it might follow the inverse square law. Unfortunately, I say "from my knowledge of sound travel", which is a bit of an exaggeration as I've actually forgotten the most of the formulas, including the ones for the near & far field. I could go to Wiki & am quite willing to, but I would appreciate it if someone were to clue me in, if I'm on the right track?</p>

<p >Thanks much, Jay Drew</p>

<p>RJ wrote:<br>

"Just to expand a bit on what Michael said. I believe the "S" in Ai-S implies that the lenses can be used in Shutter Priority exposure mode, where the camera controls the aperture by regulating the amount of stop-down lever movement." <br>

Well that's what I thought, the lens stops down in "A" mode, so it's not stuck.<br>

"Obviously the non-standardised and non-linear Ai aperture actuator would result in erratic exposures when used in this mode."<br>

An F4 has a standardized Ai actuator, no?<br>

"filter threads can be safely and effectively "lubed" by rubbing a little candle-wax into them,"<br>

I bought a pound of candle wax a week ago for that very purpose, but decided against applying it until inquiring further. AT ~$4.50, WOW! Can U believe that! $4.50 for a pound! I can't. I thought it would be ~ a buck.<br>

"I've never found a need to ease a breech mount with anything more drastic than a good clean. For some reason Nikon's chromed lens bayonet seems to attract dirt like some kind of gunge magnet, but a wipe with a non-shedding cloth or tissue should make it operate smoothly again."<br>

That's funny. Because they are such a grunge magnet, I thought that they have old lube on them which has attracted grunge, & that I needed to wipe it off & relube it. However for best in grunge one should go to Seattle;-)<br>

"WRT the 105mm Nikkor-P f/2.5 lens being made by Kiron? What have you been smoking?"<br>

Are U saying that I'm insulting the 105-P? If so, sorry, ignorance<br>

I really appreciate all the good info, JD</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I appreciate View Camera Magi zine or else I wouldn't subscribe to it.<br>

My complaint about View Camera magazine is the way they handle the timing of the on line subscription & the print subscriptions. Plus I have found it confusing to know how or which user name / password to use. At one time I had it figured out. Then they changed it. Every year I subscribe to the in print ed. in the fall, only to be informed that the on line subscription has expired for the new year. I have received the current print edition & it is my last until I renew. I'm planning on buying the next ed @ a news stand & then renewing both for the new year. I didn't subscribe to the on line edition for 2012. Perhaps there is something I don't understand, but I find it annoying to have to subscribe twice. <br>

Jay Drew</p>

<p>"my Gitzo tripod is worse !" Huh?<br>

The thing I like best about Gitzos is that, in general, they are outstanding tripods. The 2nd thing is that, so far as I know, they can all be repaired. I believe that all the repair parts are available. I could be mistaken, but I think I even saw individual aluminum legs recently.<br>

What model is it? If it's of a size & series that I want, I might be interested in buying it @ a reasonable price.<br>

Thanks, Jay Drew</p>

<p>"And for the sake of whatever deity you worship, don't "lube" or "oil" it unless you already know what you're doing."<br>

Funny U should say that. I've been wondering what the filter threads & the breach mount could be 'safely' lubed with. (Hopefully it could be accomplished w/o the help of / or need for any deity). If I would need the help of a deity to use a proper lube, 1 that won’t run until >190deg. or so. & won't distribute particles on a lens surface, I wouldn't consider it. <br>

I have no intention of taking any lens or camera apart.<br>

Thanks for the input, JD</p>

<p >My memory falis me. Was the Nikkor-P 105mm f/2.5 one of the macro lens made by Krion? That was my major reason for getting the Vivatar, & to save a little $$$</p>

<p>"Has the lens ever been serviced?"<br>

Jerry, I doubt it. It was a rare eBay find, absolutely pristine, in box, both original caps, leather case, all original paperwork. I don't think it had ever been used. But it works fine in A mode. I know that years of sitting can cause problems w/ a lens. I'm willing to have it serviced, but I don't think it needs it.<br>

Thanks, for the comments, JD</p>

<p> </p>

<p>"It is a beautiful macro lens! Enjoy it!" <br>

Yes I fully agree. I'm happy to use it in A or M, although I like Shutter priority, such as last gen. Canons. However @ this moment, I'm confused as to the meaning of S in AiS. I'm going to try to set the shutter speed w/ the aperture @ f32 w/ an F3 & see if it stops down automatically. (From past memory, I don't think it will, but I suffer from CRS). I'll get back after.<br>

Thanks, JD</p>

<p> </p>

<p> </p>

<p >Hello all</p>

<p >I have a "Vivitar Series 1 105mm f2.5 macro lens, N/AI-S" per it's markings. It's supposed to be the same lens as the famous Kiron 105mm f2.8 macro, just rebadged. I take the "N/AI-S" to mean that it's a Nikon AIS lens. Both f32 f stops (I know a ridiculous f-stop for a small format camera) are the same shade of green. I take this to be another clue that It's an AIS (just green instead of orange). However, it does not stop down in Shutter preferred mode w/ 2 different F4 cameras, when the light level indicates that it should. Does anyone have an idea if it should be operable in shutter preferred mode?</p>

<p >Thank you, Jay Drew</p>

<p >Thank you Marcus for your post. <br>

Do you know how good gels compare to a single / multi-coated glass filter in terms of reflection / transmission & flair?<br>

Thanks again, JD</p>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=3945206">Peter J</a> , Aug 25, 2012; 01:25 p.m. <br>

Peter J refered to this article:<br>

<strong>http://www.olympusmicro.com/primer/lightandcolor/filtersintro.html</strong><br>

Wow! what a great piece! I copied the entire article to my word processor for future reference. I read several pages & kept copping sentences for the future. Finally I realized that the entire article was worth saving. Until I read the entire article I don't know if my question is answered. (I know that I could have added it to 'favorites', but my 'favorites' are a little disorganized.)<br>

Thank you Jay Drew</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Hello everyone</p>

<p >I believe I had the idea many years ago, to the effect that true high quality gel lens filters, such as Kodak, have little or no of the deleterious affects on image quality that glass filters can potential have. What I remember is that this is due to the very thinness of gel filters. I wonder to what degree my memory is correct, if @ all. What I have to question about my own memory is the light transmission of gel filters. Is it better than an glass uncoated filter @ 90%? Is it around around 98% of single coated filters? </p>

<p >Also how do Gels compare w/ the newer polyester? How do they compare w/ the resin & plastics? I’ve googled this quite a bit & can't find an answer that compares gels to glass or plastics. If someone could direct me to good information, I would appreciate it.</p>

<p >Jay Drew</p>

<p >Michael & BeBu<br>

I think you are correct, I've returned it.<br>

I've cleaned both sides of the lens contacts twice. I think it's a total goner. It hasn't auto focused for some time, although it did when I 1st got it.<br>

Also I made a post apologizing for the confusion of mentioning F4, F5, & F6 in the OP, but somehow it didn't make into the posts.<br>

Thanks so much to everyone for all the kind help, Jay Drew</p>

<p>Michael<br>

I think you are correct, that makes sense.<br>

Thanks, JD</p>

<p>I forgot to mention that shortly after my 1 post, it started acting up again. Since then It has had periods of working or not as the Gods see fit.<br>

Jay Drew</p>

<p >david carrol wrote:</p>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=5179791">david carroll</a> , Aug 21, 2012; 07:02 p.m.<br>

My F4s (6x AA MB21 battery pack) has a switch which is set according to the batteries used (switches between "KR- AA" and "LR6"). I presume this switches in a resistor or something to compensate for the different output voltages of standard alkalines vs lithiums (mine uses alkalines and set to "LR6"). I'm not sure how important this switch is, but it might be worth checking.</p>

<p ><br /><br /></p>

<p >I have a F4s & I know where the switch you refer to is. I don't think it exists on the F4 (plain no letter after the 4). If it is somewhere else on my F4, I would like to know where it is. I prefer the smallest F4 because of it's smaller size & lighter weight. And the hit in reduced frame capacity & speed isn't enough to justify using a bigger F4. The plain F4s are hard to find in the US. They mostly come from the Japan retail market..</p>

<p >Thank you, any info as to the existence / location of this switch much appreciated, JD</p>