jay_drew

<p><p >Hello Farris<br /> I have the feeling that you have a vested interest in lightupfoto.com.<br /> Which is OK w/ me. But I would feel better if you mentioned your interest in this business, or lack there of. If I had a finical interest in an online posting, I would so state.<br /> Do you personally own any of the tripod heads on that site? Have you used it/ them much? What are their good & bad points?<br /> I feel your post is close to spam, Jay Drew</p>

<p >Dear Henry, Rodeo Joe</p>

<p >Thank you both for your suggestions. Joe you are correct about the construction of the dome. When I picked them up, I noticed that there were 2 small white circles embeded in the black plastic ring obviously broken off. I hope that method of fabrication was used for expediency & economics sake, not for chemical (in) compatibility reasons.</p>

<p >I think / hope they will glue back to gather just fine, Jay Drew</p>

<p > </p>

<p >BTW, I've faced this sort of question many times in my life, & searched for answers. including the "Pocket Reference Book" by Thomas J. Glover,</p>

<p >excellent little reference book, & I can never find a definitive answer or even of the several adhesives that may recommended for a certain application, which one is the best. Of course one of the problems usually is knowing what the base material is / are. Does anyone have a direction to point me for answers of this broader question?</p>

<p>I haven't had time to read all the above answers, but I hate flourcent light for any thing that requires asccurate, applealing colors. Use old photo floods if U can't afford 2 or 3 flash units & visquine screens to spread / soften the light w/ a little specular hight lighting. Consider 1 overhead light & screen, & others as fills. Hide aluminium foil or mirrors to punch up specific spots. Avoid flourcent like the plage, if at all possible.<br>

I'll read the other comments later & modify my remarks accordingly.<br>

I wish you the very best, JD</p>

 

<p >Hi all</p>

<p >Last night while shooting over a hard tiled floor, I dropped a Minolta light meter dome. Only the dome not the meter. It broke into 2 pieces. One the opaque white dome & the other the black ring that holds the dome & bayonet mounts into the meter. There were no shards of plastic to contend with. Does anyone have any idea of what kind of plastic this is & what type of glue would be successful for reattaching the 2 parts w/o dissolving them?</p>

<p >Thank you for any insight, JD</p>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=5860108">Allan Armstrong</a> , WROTE ON: Jan 14, 2012; 10:56 a.m. </p>

<p >Sounds like it's probably time to replace the power pack system. It's dinosaur old and does not allow me to vary total power (so I can't shoot f2.8, f4, or even f5.6 to blur the muslin background) or lighting ratios (except 1 or 2 stop increments so I have to move lights to change the distance). </p>

<p >Hi Allan</p>

<p >If there are no strong financial reasons to not buy new strobes, then I say go ahead. </p>

<p >But don't forget that photographers made great photographs w/ no better & possibly worse flash units that yours from the 50's through the 80's. Beside the methods mentioned so far, another way to reduce output is to 'dead head' flash tubes. Just in case U don't know what this means, I'll explain: Depending on how many outlets & flash heads U have, take heads that U don't need & plug them into the power pack. Put the heads reflector face down on the floor. Of course the reflectors need to be deep enough to protect the flash tube. Or if the heads have flash tube covers, just leave the covers on. If there is a problem of light leakage from the dead heads, place them on or drape them w/ black felt like material. Usually for me the problem is not enough light, not too much.</p>

<p >If U were to sell them 'ol dinosaurs, please let me know, I might be interested.</p>

<p >jdrew001@gmail.con</p>

<p >Hope this is of some help, JD</p>

<p>Hi there Damian</p>

<p >This is a great Photo Store in Marin, California. Lotsa LF & analogue, huge tripods, some 8 & 10 (last time I was there. Wish it were closer) It's the kind of store that all photo stores should be IMHO;-) I don't know if they have any Cambo @ this time, but it's worth an email.</p>

<p >Good luck, JD</p>

<p >http://www.seawood.com/</p>

<p >staff@seawood.com<br>

115 Tunstead Ave.<br />San Anselmo, CA 94960<br>

Phone</p>

<p >Main store line: (415) 453-4322<br />Toll-Free (outside the 415) 1-888-SWPHOTO</p>

<p ></p>

<p >Hello Nathan</p>

<p >Well, I just happen to have, as a result of a couple of 'lot' purchases, a PENTAX DIGITAL Spotmeter; a Pentax 1deg/ 21deg (analog); & a Minolta SPOTMETER F. Believe me I didn't pay much for all 3. Following are my subjective opinions for whatever value they might have to you or others: <br>

Determine the exact boundaries of the spot circle w/ sheets of black & white paper overlapping. They are not exactly where the spot is delineated on any of mine.<br>

All 3 are dynamic reading through the view finder. (By that I mean I can see the reading change as the spot moves to different reflectivity.<br>

All 3 view finders are adjustable for diopter of viewers eyesight.<br>

All have lens caps on front. (Haven’t found any caps that fit the viewfinder lenses)<br>

Both digitals are quite accurate & dependable (rugged).<br>

PENTAX DIGITAL: Smallest (I don't use the very nice looking but tight leather case it came with. Too slow to deploy) Has an analog dial around lens that I have never quite gotten use to. Displays LVs in 1/3 stops which is fine. Good sensitivity LV +1 (ASA 100, 1sec, f1.4). Replacing battery is a bit of a pain. The spot meter that usually ends up in my bag, along w/ a Minolta AutoMeter IIIF mainly due to their small size.<br>

PENTAX 21/1 No longer used it due to undependable accuracy. Will get it fixed if cost is reasonable. I like it's optics & proximity of needle reading to the spot. The view is very clear & large (the best of the 3). In particular I like the large flat circular analog exposure calculator. Replacing the batteries are an extremely difficult 'project'. It’s by far the largest of the 3. It would be my favorite spot meter if only: it took 1 AA batt. that was EZ to change; it had the rugged dependability & accuracy of a digital meter, was a flash meter, but still had that beautiful needle; & was as small as the Pentax Digital. Don't want much, do I? I can dream.<br>

Minolta SPOTMETER F: The only 'flash' spot meter I have, rarely use the flash ability but it's handy when I do need it. The only spot meter that holds a reading on the outside (The other 2 lose the reading as soon as the trigger is released. The AA batt. is very EZ to replace couldn’t be better. Slightly larger that the Pentax Digital. Reads to tenth of a stop, which is OK but not necessary. Sensitivity is LV+1 (ASA 100, 1sec, f1.4). I've thought it was more sensitive that that, more like LV -3 <br>

This data is all taken by my observation. I did not check w/ published data. So take the accuracy w/ a grain of salt.<br>

Hope this might be of some help to someone, JD</p>

<p >Thank you Scott</p>

<p >I went to that link. I see what U're saying. I also went to several other Acratech videos. Really interesting. I also watched this video:</p>

<p >

Long piece but hilarious. Well worth the time IMO. The guy could be a stand up comedian. Not sure how well it demonstrates the Gitzos superior steadiness compared to other good tripods, but it was the most entertaining piece about photography I've seen in quite a while.</p>

<p >Thanks again, JD</p>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=657840">Scott Ferris</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Frequent poster" src="../v3graphics/member-status-icons/2rolls.gif" alt="" /></a>, Jan 03, 2012; 05:13 p.m.wrote:</p>

<p>"The GP is the most versatile and best designed bullhead made. It is a perfect match to your gear."<br /> Hi Scott<br /> Why do you say that? From looking @ it's picture, I can't see how it works. Is there a demo on film, U Tube Etc? I'm going to be buying another ball head in the future. If U're this enthused about it, I should check it out.<br /> Thank you, JD</p>

<p>Hi all<br> I know how to tell a multi coated, single coated, non coated lens or fairly clear filter. But how can one tell which is which w/ a dark filter or polarizer? I don't seem to be able to distinguish the subtle tints of coatings over a dark colored lens. I don't think that all makers mark their filters as to the type of coating or lack of.<br> For instance I'm holding 1 of many filters. The white (very slightly embossed, except for the word 'NIKON') on the O.D. says: "Nikon CIRCURLAR POLAR 62mm JAPAN" which I bought used as multi coated. I can see a slight red or magenta tint of maybe 10-20CCs.<br> Another of the filters I have is a light florescent green that says on it's OD in more heavily white embossed , but smaller letters: "XO 52mm NIKKOR". Also purchased used, (but as a lot of Nikon equipment, from the son of a decesed engineer who had taken very good care of his equipment) as neither coated nor uncoated. I suspect that it's from ~1980. I think I can see a slight reddish cast to it, but it may well be my imagination. My fonts do not match the lettering, but the caps or lack of do match.<br> Happy New Years, Jay Drew<br> <br /><br /></p>

<p>Hi there Alain<br>

I'm sure you must have good reasons to want a 10 stop reduction, but man, that's a bunch. The most I've ever needed was about 6 stops. (which I don't have, but I got by.) I'm curious why you would need such a dense ND filter. I think that's about what welders use.<br>

Happy New Year, JD</p>

<p>Hello Carol<br>

The only Acratech head I have used is the Ultimate. I bought the Right handed one even though I intended to use the adjustment knob w/ my left hand. I have found it very natural to use my left hand to tighten / loosen the head w/ the knob in front. I'm not sure how one turns the camera to vertical w/ Acratech's other heads, but it is very easy w/ the adjustment knob on the left & to rotate the camera ccw (I shoot right eyed). I do not like the idea of using an "L" bracket as being too slow even though I know it contributes to steadiness. The 1 I bought did not have the dedent safety pin, which I didn't realize, & was a considerable concern to me as I'm not as steady of hand as I once was. Acratech sent me the the pin which I installed in < 5min. It was a learning curve. I guess if I were to do it again soon, it would be <3min. The pin is not deactivated as easily as some quick release heads I have seen which use a lever or knob. But it's a minor Thing. I like the Ultimate ball head very much. It has the solid feel of a quality product, & it has a quite reasonable price.<br>

Good luck, JD</p>

<p>My God U're right! That's the way for me to go!<br>

Thank you ever so much,JD</p>

<p>Bob wrote:<br>

"Also SB16s in Bgn condition are all of $13 each at KEH. A new capacitor will probably cost more."<br>

Where are U looking in KEH?<br>

The lowest price for a SB I just saw was $37 for a SB-23. The lowest numbered SB I saw was a SB-22. KEH doesn't seem to be carrying any older Nikon flashes. Do you know of a bargin basement, that I don't know about? <br>

My question could sound augmentative, but I'm asking it sincerely, JD</p>

<p>Jim & Rodeo Joe<br>

I was aware that manufacturers exaggerated their GNs, but not by 1 stop. I believe you & will try to resolve the SB-16B problem, & be satisfied withe the SB-16A<br>

Thank you for all your help, JD<br>

Hi Bob again<br>

That's a very interesting site.<br>

I will try to resolve my problems w/ the SB-16B unit w/ it's information.<br>

Thank you very much for your input, JD</p>

<p>Hi Bob<br>

I'm aware that I can buy SB-16s very cheaply & the thought occurred to me that a repair would possibly cost more than another used unit, but how likely would I be to get a better cheap used unit?<br>

Your thoughts?<br>

Thanks,JD</p>

<p >Hello</p>

<p >I realize that U found a good source for these @ a reasonable price, but this is just for future reference, "BOCA PHOTO" might have these. They certainly have an amazing amount of small parts for Nikons, both authentic Nikon & aftermarket. I'm in the process of putting together an order of ~ a dozen nick-knacks. (Opening covers, lens caps-the good 'pinch in the center type-, body caps, dedicated cords, etc) from them. I've never bought anything from them. Does anyone have good / bad experience w/ them?</p>

<p >Thanks, JD</p>

<p>Hi Pete<br>

I don't have time to register right now, but I will later. How generic are the capisitors?<br>

Thank you very much for the tip, JD</p>

<p>Hi All<br>

Having a problem w/ 2 SB-16 flashes not out putting enough light. IE. too low of a guide #. Both in manual, @ 50mm. 1 is a SB-16A; 1 a SB-16B. The "A" has a GN of ~ 80, which isn't too bad, should be ~ 110, the "B" GN is ~ 50. I tested repeatedly w/ 3 different Minolta Flash Meters, the outputs were quite consistent w/ each meter. (w/ in half a stop) I've exercised both & left them on for several hours w/ fresh batteries. If the capacitors are going to reform (maybe I should send them to reform school ;-) how long should it take? It appears Nikon no longer distributes parts nor repairs these. Probably not worth repairing. But how can I have any certainty that buying any more older units would have a reasonable output?<br>

Does anyone know of a repair facility, that will work on these?<br>

Thank you, JD</p>

<p>Thank you all for the info.<br>

Sorry for having lost track of this thread, JD</p>

<p>Fred thank you<br>

That's great to know. I'll try it tomorrow as soon as I have a chance. Have to go for dinner date now.<br>

Thanks again</p>

<p >Hi all</p>

<p >How do I search for posts that I have made? When on Google groups in the past, I could search for my name in a particular group & usually find all my old posts. Is there a way to do that here? I try to always click the email alert tab when confirming, but it doesn't seem to me to work all the time. My inability to find posts has caused me to to have totally lost track of quite a few posts. How can I keep track of my posts?</p>

<p >Thanks JD</p>

<p>Oh! BTW, I call my F5 "A digital camera that happens to use film". I seriously wonder if a stone cold computer genius could use one w/o a manual. I've moved "up" / "back" (depending on your point of view) to an F4. The F5 is a wonderful camera. I'm just not sure if I'll ever gain enough mastery over all it's fru-fru menus it to be able to use it quickly & effectively.<br>

Best, JD</p>

<p >Could someone please tell me why so many of my posts to photo.net fail? I believe, I've even paid for a subscription, although w/ my memory, I may not have. This is going to be my 2nd attempt to post to this thread. I have no idea if it will actually post. Original follows:<br>

I just checked @ KEH & didn't see any F5 instructions, but I have seen them there in the past for ~$10 to $20.</p>

<p >Also "PhotoBerts CheatSheat"s include the F5. Or @ least they did.</p>

<p >I really like Mike Butkus's site & contribute regularly to the wonderful service he provides,, but for a relative thick, small in format manual like the F5, to carry in my camera bag, I prefer the original. I suppose one could print out one of Butkus' PDF manuals in duplex, cut it down to original size, & staple it together. That sounds like way too much work, & I've ruined more paper than I could possibly have saved by attempting duplexing. W/ today’s newer printers, duplexing may be easier to do, I don't know.<br>

Best, JD</p>

<p >Hi All</p>

<p >I was seriously considering the Acra Swiss. Then I read their distributors (or repair facility in the US) comments about the need to send it to them for just about any type of minor work, & I thought, uh-uhn, I do not want that hassle. It may be the best ball head in the world, but if it's not working right because of ocean spray, dust, mud, or God knows what else, & the only answer is to mail it in for a week or 2, I don't think so.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I bought the Ultimate, because of it's simplicity (can be cleaned in the field) & more economical price. Acratech doesn't list a plate for an F4s. I called them & they sent me a 2135 plate @ a significantly reduced price if I would promise to let them know if it worked OK & that I can return it if it doesn't fit.</p>

<p >Well it doesn't fit perfectly (the radius of the rear bottom F4 is a little shorter than the radius of the plate) but I've deemed it a satisfactory fit & intend to use it into perpetuity.</p>

<p >Hope this might be of some help, JD</p>