LisaImmarco

<p>Hello,<br>

I just purchased a Contax T3 with a 30.5mm lens (Zeiss). I also purchased a Zeiss Jena Green 1 filter. It's a yellow green filter, and although I can't find the filter factor for it, it seems to be about 1.5. I am new to colored filters for black and white photography, so I originally thought that meant I compensate 1 and a half stops. That's how 'green' I am (pun intended). Now I know it means half of that, correct? I.e. a filter factor of plus 2, means I open up 1 stop?<br>

The T3 compensates in decimals, either plus or minus. So, would a plus .70 EV, be equivalent to about 2/3 of a stop, hence, the correct compensation for a 1.5 filter factor?<br>

I am not a technogeek, but if someone could help me out here, also know where I can find info on filter factors for the Zeiss Jena lenses I would be grateful. Does the compensation always equal to half of the factor? Any simple (not space rocket) tutorials out there?<br>

Also, if anyone knows a good source for a 30.5 high quality Green 2 (dark green) filter, screw on, that would be appreciated.<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

Some of you may already be familiar with my obsession with this photographer's work. I am going to teach myself, or re-teach myself, developing film, and was wondering if you could help me with ideas for developers, agitation times, etc., to try to get the same results as Anders Petersen. He is getting a very soft, grainy look, but not blurry, with great tonalities and contrast. He uses Tri-X, with a contrast filter. I guesstimated a green filter with a compensation factor of two, so there already should be some contrast.<br>

Do you think he is pushing in development addition to the high contrast filter? What intrigues me is the softness, with good detail, and the great whites and blacks-is that large grain he is getting? I am a newbie here. <br>

I know experimentation is the key, but could someone give me a starting point? I was thinking Rodinal, but I checked out the online photos by Ralph Gibson using Rodinal and Tri-X, and the grain didn't seem as 'soft'.<br>

I also read that with modern Tri-X using Rodinal at suggest developing times is already 'pushing,' and to under-develop it? Now I'm really confused.<br>

Should I use a fixer? Toner? Once again, agitation times, etc?<br>

Please check out a few of Anders Petersen's prints in this series, "Walking on Water," they are very different. There's only a few:</p>

<p>http://www.tpw.it/portfolio/anders-petersen-venexia/<br>

Thanks, <br>

Lisa</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks for responding. I really need to hit the books again. Yes, Ansel Adams, I had his book and then let it go-time to buy it again.<br>

Jochen, I could have sworn in a review that it said that it has no TTL, but I will double-check. Working this weekend, will get back to everyone during the week.<br>

Yes, I think you all are right again in that the film is being pushed, then overdeveloped. I read one website which said to push 400 ISO to 3200, then process 20% more. I think I will start with just a blue and/or green filter at normal speeds and processing, then push the additional rolls of film to 800, 1600, etc. Then the only compensation I have to do if no TTL is for flash fill.<br>

Time to go out and buy the books and start taking meticulous notes. Also, hit the books.<br>

Thank you again,<br>

Lisa</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

Doe anyone know of a really good program that can help with increasing the quality of .jpeg images I am editing in Photoshop? Tiling, artifacts, etc, sharpness, etc? Also, a plugin to achieve a kind of Kodachrome look? I was looking at my old Kodachomre negatives and wow, I forgot how wonderful it was.<br>

I am learning Photoshop, and only have 7. Please treat me like a dummy.<br>

Thanks in advance,<br>

Lisa</p>

<p>addendum: <br>

I mean really, how is he getting those superb dark greays and blacks!? They have depth, they're not just dark. I have 15 years of painting school behind me, they are like Rembrandts!</p>

<p>Hello all,<br>

I am trying to relearn photograpy. I studied it many years ago. I mostly do film at the moment, 35mm. I am trying to emulate a certain photographer's work, Anders Petersen. I read on a website that he uses a 'hard' contrast filter, and most likely pulls the whites during shooting, and develops for blacks in processing to increase contrast. He ONLY uses Tri-X, and he only uses a Contax T3.<br>

So, I'm broke right now and thousands and thousands in debt, and I went out a bought a Contax T3. You know, when you get the itch...I also bought an original Contax green filter to increase contrast. The Contax is NOT TTL. So if I was going to compensate for a green lens which is say, plus 3, would I only go plus 2 to pull whites? Or plus 1? I know I have to experiment, just want some guidelines.<br>

Then I am going to relearn processing, to save money. If I develop for blacks, would you push the 400 to 800? Please look at the link! Petersen is also getting these great tonalities, and I found (my memory is sketchy, it was years ago), when you increase contrast like that, you lose tonality. So can I keep it with certain processing chemicals, or would that be through Photoshop-his tonalities are allround so great, that I have a hard time believing he gets them solely through Photoshop.<br>

Rodinal was recommended for a contrasty look, and then something from the 60's called Russian soup, lol. Have no idea what that is. Probably give me cancer.<br>

Any help would be much appreciated. I know I have a lot of questions here. If you can think of anything else I should know, please inform this dummy!<br>

Here is the link to Petersen's work. I think he is the greatest living photographer in the world:<br>

http://www.anderspetersen.se/mental-hospital-2/<br>

Thanks in advance,<br>

Lisa</p>

<p>Anders Petersen told the poster that the filter was on the camera. He was positive about it.<br /> <br /> I emailed Petersen to ask for clarification on his filter. When/if he emails me I will get back to you. The problem with the filter is the Contax is not TTL. There will be the tedium of compensation. <br>

<br /> Petersen uses something called the zone 8 focusing system. I found that invaluable for street technique. I am looking at many of my old negatives and the foreground is not focused. However, I have also noticed that most of his photography is focused on one individual and I tend to like on occasion, complex mis-en-scene photography. A lot to learn.<br /> <br /> Thanks so much for responses.</p>

<p>Lisa</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Also, I don't do digital. Too in love with film. Learning Photoshop, and that was an interesting post about sucking red out, when converting, thanks. <br>

Thank you for your responses.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

First of all, if any of you liked his work, go to his website, anderspetersen.se, and check out his mental institution photos. They are riveting.<br>

He doesn't use orthochromatic film. In '10 Things..." and interview article, and excellent advice for street photographers, he said he uses only Tri-X, and the rest is done in the darkroom. I am thinking he pulls the whites during shooting and pushes blacks during processing? <br>

In another post I saw on Modelmayhem, he emailed another photographer who is obsessed with him, and said he uses a 'hard' contrast filter. There was a discussion as to whether he meant high contrast filter. I think a green filter may be what he is using.</p>

<p>I forgot to mention that the look is very contrasty, of course. Part of it is the filter he said he uses, the rest is processing. In some of his photos the lips are almost black:<br>

http://www.galerievu.com/artiste.php?id_photographe=23<br>

Thanks for reading.</p>

<p>I am trying to get the look Enders Petersen gets in his photos. Someone on a website said that Petersen emailed him and said that he uses a 'hard contrast' filter, not high contrast. Also, maybe a green or blue filter would work. Problem is, I can't find them, or info on these filters, anywhere.<br>

Anyone know of a source? It's a 35mm lens.<br>

Thanks in advance,</p>

<p>Lisa</p>

<p> </p>