ilya_e
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Posts posted by ilya_e
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<p>I'd suggest Wolf Camera. Just go to www.wolfcamera.com and you will be able to find all of their locations. Not sure what they have in stock though. So it might be a good idea to call first.</p>
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<p>I have even seen some people suggest expensive MF Zeiss lenses in places where they didn't exactly fit the original question</p>
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<p>Please PM me the link to that thread. I don't want to hijack this thread any more.</p>
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<p>If you like the functionality of the 24-105 on the 5D2, then the EFS 17-55mm f/2.8 IS is worth considering</p>
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<p>First his budget is $500, second he was asking about primes and third why would he buy a lens only for a crop body? If he gets EF lenses he will be able to use them on 5DII as well. Good advice as always from G Dan</p>
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<p>I am basically looking for a good all around, knock around, every day lens for the camera. I am leaning towards the EF 85mm F/1.8 USM lens.</p>
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<p>85 f/1.8 would be great for portraits but IMO it would be too long as a walkabout lens. For general walkabout lens I'd suggest 35mm f/2. In fact since your budget is $500 you might get both used 35mm f/2 and 85mm f/1.8. Used lenses offer great value and you will not be loosing much money (if any) if you decide to sell them.</p>
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<p>I don't know, but have heard that separate video recorders are significantly better</p>
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<p>I can tell you that you've heard wrong. In order to have the same quality videos as 7D or 5DII can produce you will have to purchase $50,000 (or more) worth of regular camera equipment. Something like Red or any other cameras. And some professional say that 7D and 5DII beat Red.</p>
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<p>Brian, I've used Canon 100mm and it was not a bad lens so I think it either user error or a bad lens. But recently I've acquired Voigtlander 125mm APO Lanthar and I can tell you that no other macro lens I've used can come even close to it. It's expensive but worth every penny.</p>
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<p>Steve, 7D is a much better camera especially for action. It's got amazing video capabilities but it is not an easy video camera to operate. It will take you time to learn and you will have to purchase additional accessories to be able to produce high quality videos. And they are not cheap accessories. So you might want to consider that as well. Without those accessories you will not be able to stabilize the camera unless you will be using it on a tripod.</p>
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<p>Erwin, I don't think they will be able to do anything about the jitters when you pan too fast. It's sensor-related and in order to get rid of that you will have to reduce sensor dramatically thus killing all of its advantages. It would be nice though. I just hate seeing it. But slow motion, audio controls and everything that can be done with the software is definitely doable and I expect to see it maybe even with the next firmware release.</p>
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<p>Yes, video capabilities are software-based only. And this is the only thing that we can expect to change. Stuff like continuous auto focus mentioned above will never happen.</p>
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<p>Erwin, I seriously doubt that Canon will do "much better improvements for video capabilities". 5DIII will still be primarily a still camera and in order to make major improvements they will have to dramatically increase its size. Plus, if they improve it too much they will be taking a hit to their video cameras market. I don't think it's in their best interest. Professionals found a way to accommodate for all shortcomings of the 5DII and today it is probably one of the best video cameras in the world at 1/20 to 1/50 of a price of any serious professional camera. Yes its hard to learn and operate, yes it cam be a money pit to buy all of the attachments in order to produce serious videos but it's worth every second and penny. </p>
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<p>Keep the shutter at 1/50th (PAL) or 1/60th (NTSC) for most fluid motion</p>
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<p>That is not always correct. You set shutter speeds according to the shooting mode. If you shoot 24p/25p then set shutter at 1/50 sec, if you are shooting 30p then set shutter at 1/30 or 1/60 sec. Manfrotto fig rig would not work very well for videos. You need a good shoulder rig to stabilize the camera. And they range anywhere from $300 to more than $1000 for a good Zacuto rig. Follow focus system is also a must for making professional videos. Then You will need a matte box, Zacuto z-finder (or similar) and a monitor. And most important you need to spend time learning to use the system. That is why I said that 1 week is not going to be enough. If you are serious about making videos with 5DII then I suggest researching first and then taking time to learn how it all works so you will be prepared for your future projects. Oh, for starters you get watch Philip Bloom's video on how to shoot with 7D/5DII. Good luck</p>
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<p><a href="http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/canon-eos-5d-mk-ii-hd/">Click here</a> and ask the same question there. You can also visit cinema5d.com. All I can tell you is that you will not be able to be ready to shoot professional looking videos by next week.</p>
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<p>That's not what the testing shows. I will go with rigorous, controlled testing over anecdotal feedback from people with a personal investment in the lens any day</p>
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<p>LOL. Ignorance is bliss</p>
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<p>Brett, I think it is pretty clear that I was referring to a totally different lens, first of all. And second why don't you read what actual users of Zeiss 50mm 1.4 say <a href="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/860134">here</a>. I've owned Canon 50mm f/1.4 and then bought Zeiss f/1.4 and eventually f/2 MP and Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 beats Canon 50mm f/1.4 in every aspect.</p>
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<p>Are you sure you want to do this? I am trying to go the opposite way and switch to M9 from my 5DII. If it wasn't for the video of 5DII I'd switch already. It's the only thing that keeps me with 5DII. As for your question I'd recommend getting Zeiss ZE 50mm f/2 Makro Planar and not one of the Canon primes. The IQ of Zeiss is the same (or maybe even exceeds) as Canon 50mm f/1.2 plus you get macro if you ever need it. And it definitely beats Canon 1.4 and 1.8 by far. As for the zoom I'd recommend Canon 24-70mm f/2.8. Or you could also get Zeiss ZE 21mm Distagon and Canon 85mm f/1.2 II instead of the zoom. The quality of both 21mm Distagon and Canon 85mm f/1.2 II is unmatched. You will surely miss the Leica sizes when you switch LOL</p>
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<p>I'd suggest exchanging the camera. Similar to Puppy Face I do not normally notice any dead pixels unless I shoot with the cap on.</p>
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<p>I agree with Michael regarding Nikon. 14-24 is an amazing lens and would work great on a crop. It would add a bit of hustle to the process (stop-down metering) but its worth the effort. Zeiss 21mm might not be wide enough on a crop while Nikon will give you great IQ and convenience of a zoom.</p>
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<p>He specifically mentions not to compare focal length of those tow lenses. Is it so hard to understand? Can you share you experiences regarding IQ of those 2 lenses?</p>
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<p>I use Zeiss 21mm for stills and video and could not be happier. Not sure why would anybody need AF for landscape and other wide-angle photography. I use many MF Zeiss lenses including 50mm f/2 Makro Planar which now sits on my 5DII probably 70% of the time. EG-S helps a lot and sometimes I use 10x LiveView. By the way check out this <a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0&Lens=708&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=454">link</a> where you can compare those 2 lenses. </p>
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<p>I've never tried 14mm but I did had a chance to try Canon 17mm TS-E. Optically I think they were very close with Zeiss obviously showing more contrast. Both were tack sharp edge to edge. Some say that 17mm is sharper in the corners but I can't say I saw any major difference. I decided to go with Zeiss because of its build, contrast, manual focus and about $1000 difference (bought for $1600 minus 8% Bing when it was still working). If you want to get more information visit <a href="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/board/55">fredmiranda</a>. I am sure you will find more people there who had a chance to use both 14mm and Zeiss 21mm.</p>
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<p>Zeiss lenses are used a lot for video work and majority of professionals prefer them over Canon glass. They are as close as you can get to cine lenses. And they work much better with all types of rigs and follow focus systems. If you already own Zeiss ZF lenses then simply get an adapter. If not then I'd suggest using ZE line designed specifically for Canon EF.</p>
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<p><em>How did you clean it? I have this lens and I've noticed some dust inside. Can you take it apart and clean it?</em><br>
Yes, its actually very easy especially if you have experience taking lenses apart. Here is the link that can help you <a href="http://www.pbase.com/lightrules/drp">http://www.pbase.com/lightrules/drp</a></p>
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<p>I'd get 70-200 f/4 IS in your situation. I own 5DII and 70-200 f/4 IS and its great for shooting kids. f/2.8 is a great lens but a killer in terms of weight. Then I would save a bit and instead of 24-105 I'd get 24-70 f/2.8. </p>
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<p>Daniel, well I understand that older 1.3 cameras would perform worse than 7D. I was referring to 1DIII and latest 1DIV. Don't get me wrong, 7D is a great camera and low ISO images are excellent when taken with both 5DII and 7D. But for me personally I would not have it as my main camera. FF, DOF and low-light performance of 5DII heavily outweigh 7D capabilities. 7D's AF of course is far superior to 5DII. I would get 7D if I didn't find 30D for $150. That was hard deal to turn down and I am pretty happy with its performance (I only use it during daylight). </p>
7D Video capability?
in Canon EOS Mount
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<p>If you are in a PAL region keep the shutter at 1/50th, NTSC region 1/60th.</p>
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<p>This statement is incorrect and you keep repeating it. Shutter speed depends on the shooting mode. For 24p(NTSC) and 25p(PAL) you should use 1/50sec, For 30p (NTSC) you can use 1/30sec or 1/60sec.</p>
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<li>If you will be using 7D to make family/friends (no advanced shooting) the most useful accessory will be a Zacuto Z-Finder. It will stabilize camera somewhat (reduce handshake) and will help you focus. </li>
<li>You also don't need Rode or Sennheiser mics for hundreds of dollars. You can get Audio Technica for about $60. It's not as good but perfectly acceptable. </li>
<li>I agree that you will need a Vari-ND filter to use during daylight to maintain slow shutter speeds and wide apertures. </li>
<li>Create a custom picture setting and set everything to 0 (sharpening, , etc). </li>
<li>Keep WB set to Auto all the time unless you have controlled lighting and know what you are doing.</li>
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<p>I also recommend visiting forums dedicated to DSLR video. Dvinfo.net and cinema5d.com are the best. There is a video by Philip Bloom that can help you learn the camera and how to shoot videos with it. It's expensive though at $135. Good luck</p>