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ilya_e

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Posts posted by ilya_e

  1. <p>IMO it is worth it. 350D is a very old model and it was designed for beginners. 40D is a semi-pro camera with much better controls. But the only issue I see is the price. You can buy a used 40D on eBay for less than $500. I just saw 40D from reputable seller with 30 days warranty sold for $466. </p>
  2. <p>I'd suggest staying with T1i and getting better lenses. Something like 17-55mm f/2.8 (great lens although very prone to dust) or maybe even 24-70mm f/2.8 for your main lens and a fast prime like 85mm f/1.8 or 70-200mm f/4 IS. Better body will not make your shots better and it looks like you have a lot to learn.</p>
  3. <p>Paul, 24p is NTSC and 25p is PAL. I think you will even find it in your manual for 7D. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frame_rate">Here</a> is a link to wiki where you can learn about frame rates. Or even better. Grab your camera and set your video shooting mode to 25p. Can you do it? Not unless you set your camera to shoot in PAL. Yes I agree that shooting in 24p will introduce more judders but if you need your movie to have a more of a film/cine look then 24p is the way to go. I mostly shoot in 30p but sometimes in 24p as I like those effects.</p>
  4. <p>Paul, you must have had experience with Fader-ND filter. I am a long time Vari-ND by Singh-Ray user and decided to buy Fader-ND to try it out. I was very disappointed by it as it softened up the image and introduced a color cast. It wasn't major but I still did not want to keep it. Vari-ND by Singh-Ray IMO is flawless even when set to 8-stops but cost about $400 so it all depends on your budget and preference. I did hear about the cross effect of Fader-NDs but I did not experience it. Maybe it depends on a copy or some other condition.</p>
  5. <blockquote>

    <p>In what way is it incorrect? What is your source for this?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>My source is Philip Bloom DVD for 7D, multiple posts on all video forums plus my own experience. Check Dvinfo.net and cinema5d.com. 24p is an NTSC format and to achieve best quality you need shutter speed of 1/50sec. But according to your statement it would have to be 1/60sec. Which is incorrect and will introduce aliasing/jitters whatever they are called. Same goes for AWB. If you are an amateur and don't have controlled lighting you should always set camera to AWB.</p>

  6. <p>If you buy used EF-S lenses you will not be loosing much (if anything) when you decide to sell them. But of course selling process itself can be annoying (to say the least). Depending on your budget you can get 16-35mm f/2.8 or 17-40mm /f4 + 50mm f/1.8 + 70-200mm f/4. That setup should cover most of your needs unless you will need something longer (for wildlife, etc) and you will be able to use all of the lenses on a FF camera.</p>
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