ilya_e
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Posts posted by ilya_e
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<blockquote>
<p>7D and portraits? I'd go for either the 85mm 1.8 or the 70-200 2.8</p>
</blockquote>
<p>+1, the only better alternative would be 85 f/1.2 II but that would put a big dent on your budget.</p>
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<p>Well I had similar problems and it was AF system. I don't know how technical are you but it is very easy to open the lens up and fix it yourself. In my lens it was a loose screw.<br>
Here is the link that can help you <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.fotomozaic.ro/artikel.php?idstory=225&s=1" target="_blank">http://www.fotomozaic.ro/artikel.php?idstory=225&s=1</a></p>
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<p>There was a similar <a href="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/930979">discussion</a> and a poll on FM recently. IMO It's a very usefull feature.</p>
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<p>I just checked mine and yet it gets a bit tighter. Barely noticable though. I've never noticed it until I read your post.</p>
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<p>You said that you've read all articles and forum posts about this issue and still can't decide. Well, in that case just flip a coin. That will make you feel better :)</p>
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<p>It depends on how you look at it and how deep your pockets are. Compare to 14mm II for more than 2K I think it's actually very good price. It will be interesting to compare IQ of those 2 lenses.</p>
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<p>For now I see two issues with this lens. First is the 6 month wait to get it :) and second you would have to really watch out not to damage that front element.</p>
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<p>Zooming effects of 8-15<br>
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<p>That fisheye looks tempting. And the price is more or less acceptable. Can't wait to hear reports.</p>
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<p>Here are the prices from Rob Qalbraith<br>
<a href="http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/content_page.asp?cid=7-10054-10884" target="_blank">http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/content_page.asp?cid=7-10054-10884</a><br>
8-15 Fisheye - $1400<br />70-300L - $1500<br />300 f/2.8 IS II - $7000<br />400 f/2.8 IS II - $11000<br />TCs - $500 / each</p>
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<p>Out of those 2 lenses I'd recommend 50 1.4. 28mm 1.8 is just not a good lens. Very soft and bad CA. You might want to consider 35mm f/2 instead. That would be a true "normal" lens on a crop and its got very good IQ.</p>
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<p>No, not really. CS4/5 have no problems opening CR2 files.</p>
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<p>Sounds like an average price. Sometimes you can find it cheaper but not by much. If you are in UK then the price is good, especially if it's in good condition. I would get 5D (mark I) over 40D any time.</p>
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<p>IMO it is worth it. 350D is a very old model and it was designed for beginners. 40D is a semi-pro camera with much better controls. But the only issue I see is the price. You can buy a used 40D on eBay for less than $500. I just saw 40D from reputable seller with 30 days warranty sold for $466. </p>
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<p>I used to own 50D and it was pretty ragged. It actually fell once pretty hard on a rug (not concrete) and there was no damages at all. But of course if you need something to hit the nails with then 50D would not work very well. In that case you will need 1D/Ds series LOL</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>-EF-S 60mm macro<br />-EF 100mm macro</p>
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<p>+1. Both are excellent lenses. My personal preference on a crop body would be 60mm</p>
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<p>I'd suggest staying with T1i and getting better lenses. Something like 17-55mm f/2.8 (great lens although very prone to dust) or maybe even 24-70mm f/2.8 for your main lens and a fast prime like 85mm f/1.8 or 70-200mm f/4 IS. Better body will not make your shots better and it looks like you have a lot to learn.</p>
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<p>I agree with Max. It will be cheaper for you to get a used XT or even something better like XSi instead of paying for repairs. I just saw mint XSi with 18-55 sold for $350 on craigslist. XT will be much lower than that.</p>
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<p>LOL, that was awesome. Thanks for sharing. I hope you've read the comments below and understand that it was a joke.</p>
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<p>Paul, 24p is NTSC and 25p is PAL. I think you will even find it in your manual for 7D. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frame_rate">Here</a> is a link to wiki where you can learn about frame rates. Or even better. Grab your camera and set your video shooting mode to 25p. Can you do it? Not unless you set your camera to shoot in PAL. Yes I agree that shooting in 24p will introduce more judders but if you need your movie to have a more of a film/cine look then 24p is the way to go. I mostly shoot in 30p but sometimes in 24p as I like those effects.</p>
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<p>Paul, you must have had experience with Fader-ND filter. I am a long time Vari-ND by Singh-Ray user and decided to buy Fader-ND to try it out. I was very disappointed by it as it softened up the image and introduced a color cast. It wasn't major but I still did not want to keep it. Vari-ND by Singh-Ray IMO is flawless even when set to 8-stops but cost about $400 so it all depends on your budget and preference. I did hear about the cross effect of Fader-NDs but I did not experience it. Maybe it depends on a copy or some other condition.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>In what way is it incorrect? What is your source for this?</p>
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<p>My source is Philip Bloom DVD for 7D, multiple posts on all video forums plus my own experience. Check Dvinfo.net and cinema5d.com. 24p is an NTSC format and to achieve best quality you need shutter speed of 1/50sec. But according to your statement it would have to be 1/60sec. Which is incorrect and will introduce aliasing/jitters whatever they are called. Same goes for AWB. If you are an amateur and don't have controlled lighting you should always set camera to AWB.</p>
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<p>If you buy used EF-S lenses you will not be loosing much (if anything) when you decide to sell them. But of course selling process itself can be annoying (to say the least). Depending on your budget you can get 16-35mm f/2.8 or 17-40mm /f4 + 50mm f/1.8 + 70-200mm f/4. That setup should cover most of your needs unless you will need something longer (for wildlife, etc) and you will be able to use all of the lenses on a FF camera.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>if you need the money, then of course sell them. If you don't need the money, keep them and use them now</p>
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<p>+1</p>
How much does it cost to adjust the focus at service center?
in Canon EOS Mount
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