ilya_e

<p>@Willian W<br>

Hey idiot, nobody asked your opinion thats for sure. Keep your stupid comments for your wife.</p>

 

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<b>This is unacceptable and, since it's not the first such comment this user has made, it has resulted in "Mr. E" being removed from the site</b>

<p>Use EOS Utility to change that. </p>

<p>Go to Google and search for: canon 7d vs 5d mark ii. That is my evidence. Most tests say that 5DII wins the IQ battle. And this is exactly what I've heard from actual owners of both 7D and 5DII on FM. Apparently this is a heated debate and I think it not very smart to state that tests prove that 7D is as 5DII when there are many other controlled tests that state otherwise. Again, this is an opinion and not a fact. So please stop forcing your opinion on everybody. We will talk more when you can afford 5DII and able to do your own tests</p>

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<p>As Daniel and David have amply indicated, the <em>evidence</em> out there supports their position extremely robustly; whereas, aside from a lot of folk <em>saying</em> that the 5D Mk II has better IQ, there seems to be very little actual proof that this is the case.</p>

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<p>This is not evidence but an opinion. There have been numerous threads about it here and on other forums and the above opinion is in minority. I would say wishful thinking. I might reconsider my opinion if you point me in direction of a controlled test. The link above is a joke.</p>

<p>24-105 is an excellent lens and since you said you have 10-22 already it would fit very nicely. You will have everything covered from 10mm to 105mm. The only negative side of 24-105 (in your situation) is its aperture of f/4. You will not be able to achieve very shallow DOF for better separation from background. You will see huge difference in quality.</p>

<p>If this is your sharpest photo then I suspect there is a problem with the lens. Do you have any other bodies to try it on? You could probably use microadjustment feature of the 7D to see if it will cure the problem but in any case I would try to exchange it. 100% crop of one of the test images I made with it at 1.4. As you can see it's tack sharp.</p><div></div>

<p>Were the other 6 images sharp? Can you post an example? The lens is very sharp at 1.4 but don't forget that at 1.4 DOF is very shallow so it's easy to miss.</p>

<p>For landscapes and portraits there is no better camera than 5DII. 7D can't come even close to 5DII in that regard. By the way I just dumped 85LII for the new Sigma 85 f/1.4. This lens is incredible.</p>

<p>You need to use ZoomBrowser to play raw movie files. Other players will have problems on Windows systems. You can use NeoScene to convert raw files to AVI format for easier management and playback.</p>

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<p>Hi, can anyone help me.. how to do micro focus adjustments on 7d for my 85 1.4. i'm completely new to the concept. Can anyone send a link or explain from scratch</p>

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<p>Bhavesh, have you tried going out of your house and taking some real world pictures with the lens? If not try it and share your results after that. If issue continues then exchange the lens.</p>

<p>I agree with Matt. Use tripod or test during daylight to achieve fast speeds. I can tell you that Sigma 85 is sharper than 85L (at least my copy) so first eliminate user error. If still soft then I would exchange it. </p>

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<p>Ilya - why is the date code idiocy - I find it very useful</p>

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<p>Would you care to explain why? When you buy new lens datecode does not matter. It is a new and unused lens. And when you buy used does it really matter if the lens was used for 3 years or 10? I personally don't think so. Any lens can break, new one just recently bought at the store, used 1 year or used 10 years. Date code means absolutely nothing. It just brings confusion to sellers and buyers.</p>

<p>I think this datecode idiocy should have been stopped long time ago.</p>

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<p>I'd reckon you need to take up English Lessons, Honey, because your comprehension and interpretation of the written word fails elementary school standards . . . </p>

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<p>Honey my ass. When somebody talks about crawling and branches getting inside the hood it would be logical that the lens and body could get scratched or damaged as well. Even an idiot could understand that. But apparently not you. Are you that retarded? Damn, how can you operate the camera? Do you even understand what the manual says?</p>

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<p>still no mention of how one is concerned about camera and lens protection or that there is no other means by which one does so. . .</p>

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<p>LOL, that was the smartest thing you've said today.</p>

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<p>Or laying on the ground crawling around chasing lizards . . .<br />At ground level the sticks and twigs easily get beyond the protection of the lens hood:</p>

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<p>Ok, it happens, people forget stuff. Here, let me remind you. Quit smoking crack, it's bad for your head.</p>

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<p>Instead it seems foolish to constantly take it on and off</p>

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<p>As I said before I do it probably once a month so putting it on and taking it off does not bother me at all. I use other filters more often than that (Vari-ND and polarizer) and if I follow your advice then I would have to stack all of my filters and never take them off. Imagine how much protection that would give me. As for the safety issue I would say that a lot really depends on a person. In about 30 years that I've been using cameras I did not scratch or break one lens yet (knock on wood). In fact my equipment looks like as if it was purchased yesterday (hoods are the exceptions). Counting out forcing the camera through bushes and dragging on the ground it went through a lot of nasty conditions and hood was all I ever needed. But that just me, if you feel that buying and having UV on all the time makes you feel better then why not.</p>

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<p>I re read the posts here and it seems that you and I are the only two who mention using a macro lens in “rough conditions” like crawling through bushes or such like</p>

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<p>Go back to first page and see what I said about using UV filters. Sorry I did not mention lizards and ground levels. That would probably make you understand a bit more.</p>

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<p>and those of us who do not would be fools if we didn't protect our lenses from rain, salt water spray, wind driven sand, etc.</p>

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<p>You probably did not read all previous posts completely. This is exactly when I would advise using a protection filter. If you mostly shoot in similar conditions then you would probably leave it on all the time. I personally find myself in similar situations probably once a month. But the rest of the time I shoot in how you said it in "pleasant parks on sunny days" so it wold be foolish to leave the filter on all the time. I can tell you right now that I never forced my cameras through tree branches or bushes and would never drag it on the ground. Apparently some people do, yet they are not worried about scratching the camera and lens (and damaging either one) but they do worry about protecting front element. Funny.</p>

<p><a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/Underwater-Waterproof-Housing-Case-Canon-1D-Mark-II-5D_W0QQitemZ140414719967QQcategoryZ50506QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp5197.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D2%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4864211277144293924#ht_3745wt_950">Here</a> is something I found on eBay as a cheap substitute for underwater housing. But I don't know how good this is.</p>

<p>For your needs (casual shooting, macro, landscape) 5DII is the best camera money can buy today. Shooting casual videos is very easy, but you will have to spend some time getting to know all of its features and what it can and cannot do. In your situation I would also dump 18-200 and get 5DII + 24-70 + 70-200 f/4 (non-IS if money is tight). And I'd also recommend buying used to save money. If you decide to stay with crop then you could probably get T2i and stick with the lenses you currently have.</p>

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<p>Sorry to hear that. I guess we all have our faults....</p>

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<p>LOL.</p>

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<p>Yay! So - does it matter if I just slap a cheap UV, or even a cheap skylight on this lens due to the nature of the photography</p>

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<p>For me yes it does. I use UV's only when near hazards like water, sand, etc. For protection I use hoods instead. Even the best filter is still a piece of glass in front of the lens. Even the best one will degrade IQ to some degree. For some people that minor difference does not matter. Hell, some would not even notice if you put dirty hockey plexiglass in front of their lenses. So it's all very subjective. But if I were to use filters I would definitely go for the best ones.</p>

<p>ZoomBrowser should be able to play the raw files without any problems.</p>

<p>Amit, you should be able to use ZoomBrowser to play raw movie files and convert them to more manageable format. However, conversion quality of ZoomBrowser is not stellar. I use NeoScene to convert raw files to avi format and then edit them in Sony Vegas.</p>

<p>Sure, no doubt that Canon has 5DIII already. The only question is when they decide to release it. And they will do it only based on market conditions, not because Canon users created some schedule. Market is only driven by competition and release of a new model heavily dependent on that. Don't forget that 5DII now caters to video professionals too, who continue buying 5DII and will continue buying unless there is a big reason for them not to. <br>

I bought 5DII with intentions to keep 6 years (skip 1 upgrade) but if 5DIII comes out with the same AF system as 7D then I would sell my 5DII and 1DII and will get 5DIII, otherwise I am very happy with IQ that I get from 5DII for many years to come.</p>

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<p>The 5D was in production slightly over 3 years before being replaced with the 5DII. If that is the pattern, expect another year before an upgrade appears.</p>

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<p>This is true, however, Canon will only release Mark III in case Nikon releases a camera that will beat 5DII in features and quality. I am not very familiar with Nikon market but from what I've heard from Nikon guy there isn't a real competition from Nikon yet. Maybe he is wrong, I don't know. I used to own 50D and I would also say that their (5DII and 50D) AF systems are somewhat similar. If you are looking to shoot sports or any other action then you should probably consider 7D or 1D series.</p>

<p>Nicolas, where do I send the money. Please let me know ASAP. LOL</p>