rfader

<p>Looking for some updated information. I've read information (the most recent from 2013) that Portrait Professional is not compatible as a plug-in with Lightroom 5. Hoping to learn updated information about that or other portrait editing plug-ins that are compatible with Lightroom 5.<br>

Appreciate any and all information.</p>

 

<p>Eric, I actually use Aperture and there's no sharing option to Instagram.</p>

<p>Brilliant! Thanks all. I'm Mac based so Dropbox will be the answer for me.</p>

<p>First, we need a 'sharing' category on photo.net.<br>

My question is...is there any easy way to get photos which were shot on DSLR and now on my computer into Instagram? I've seen many beautiful images, and many with bokeh, which were obviously not shot from a camera phone.<br>

I've googled this and have gone down a long ugly road downloading apps that don't work.<br>

Ideas anyone?</p>

<p>Thank you all for your thoughtful responses. I'm really surprised that this thread is the only evidence of advice on this topic. Can't thank you all enough.<br>

Robin</p>

<p>Matt, they are boxed prints with a border, no mat, just straight prints, 14x11 on Hahnemuhle photo rag, 308gsm. I have room on the bottom for signing. I've been told to sign in pencil. Does this sound right?</p>

<p>I'm sending a group of prints to a dealer who's interested in my work. How and where do I sign them? Is there a protocol for this? In pencil on the front border? On the back? All advice is appreciated.<br>

Robin</p>

<p>Many thanks, Dan! This is wise advice and highly useful.</p>

<p>Awesome -- trying to secure a copy now. In advance of that, any comments, suggestions are welcome.</p>

<p>A reputable art photography dealer is interested in my work and wants me to provide presentation prints. Before I provide the prints, is it business standard to have a contract as to how long she'll hold onto them? I'm spending a small fortune to have the prints made and housed in a presentation box. How, if at all, should I protect myself to be certain I'll get these back?<br>

And generally, does anyone have any suggestions about the photographer/dealer relationship?<br>

Any and all suggestions are very appreciated!<br>

Robin Fader</p>

<p>Hmmm. Does bigger make it better? That's nearly $359,000 per foot.</p>

 

<p>I'm using a MacBook Pro which is about 3 years old as well. Going the Mac route and thinking about upgrading, I'm going to wait until they work out the kinks in the new operating system, Lion.</p>

<p>I'm wondering if on Ebay, sellers are required to supply the serial number if asked.</p>

<p>Shooting groups is tough but I think you did a great job. In the end, people want to be able to pick themselves out and be happy. Shooting RAW should solve your problem.</p>

<p>This article is a treasure. Thanks so much for posting it!</p>

<p>No one has mentioned taking street photos of minors here. Would showing "them in an exhibition and sell(ing) prints without a release" apply as well?</p>

<p>Awesome info as always from photo.net.<br>

Many thanks to all who took the time to respond.</p>

<p>I'm about to purchase a Canon 5D Mark ll and wondering:<br>

If I'm shooting stills RAW + JPEG, no flash, how many photos will I get on any given size compact flash card?<br>

Also, if I'm shooting one hour of HD video, what size card would I need?<br>

Some way to help me figure out gigs-to-stills would be so helpful.<br>

Appreciating all input.<br>

Robin</p>

<p>Jeff B - You really brought clarity to my dilemma about fixed vs zoom lenses for this kind of shooting. While I'd love a 28-75, it's just not fast enough for me. I am getting great shots with me 85mm but ache for that wider-angle shot so often. When budget permits, I'm going for a 50mm next. <br>

Thanks for so eloquently helping me figure this out. I agree...nothing slower than a 1.8 is what works great.</p>

<p>Was just hoping to get up-to-date opinions on whether to back-up photos to Carbonite or not. For $54.95 a year with unlimited storage space and remote access to backed-up files, it seems like a great solution and a no-brainer. This seems like a perfect solution for photographers. Am I wrong?</p>

<p>Great suggestion, Ed! Thanks.</p>

<p>Many thanks to all for responding. I bit the bullet and got the 85mm and get to test it out this Friday. My learning curve will be shortened thanks to you all.<br>

Robin</p>

<p>William, this is incredibly helpful. Many thanks for your detailed response. I just love photo.net -- learn something new every day.<br>

Robin</p>

<p>I'll be shooting in poorly lit basketball courts with a 20D and would love to get a faster, light-weight lens. I move around alot and have great access on the court. A prior/old posting talks about these but not in relation to shooting sports.<br>

The cost of the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 is about double the 85mm, but I do a lot of portrait work so the additional usage is a consideration.<br>

Any and all comments are so appreciated.<br>

Robin</p>

<p>William W...a question! You say:<br>

20D can be pushed to ISO3200 reasonably with skill and correct exposure, the newer bodies can be pushed to ISO6400 and get the same or better results – and again this depends on what the EV is you are shooting – you need to get to the gym and answer that question also. Then it is a matter of is the $300 worth it to you or not.</p>

<p>Specifically, how do you push a 20D to ISO3200? I've seen this mentioned before and don't know how to do it.<br>

Many thanks!<br>

Robin</p>