giverin

<p>I've got into a bit of an argument in another photography forum. The topic was airport scanning of film and moved on to high ISO films being more prone to damage. One guy asked if film that had been pushed counted as being higher ISO and more susceptible. I replied saying that it was the native ISO of the emulsion that was sensitive to the x rays and that 400 ISO pushed to 1600 was still a 400 ISO emulsion after all. The fact that you have underexposed the film is immaterial with regards to its sensitivity to x rays.<br>

A couple of other posters disagree. They say that the subsequent increased development times of pushed film makes it more susceptible to the effects of x rays. I'm not sure I understand what they are talking about.<br>

I am right? If I'm wrong, could someone please explain the principle to me. Thanks. </p>

<p>I'm confused. I've read about APX 100 35mm being out of production but my stockist still has it and their web site states "Yes it's back and at a very competetive price", implying that its back in production.<br>

Agfa's own web site still lists it and doesn't say that its discontinued. <br>

<a href="http://www.agfaphoto.com/appc/content_manager/page.php?ID=193734&dbc=93d25cd0a7e330c02680ceb1a0f6a3b9">http://www.agfaphoto.com/appc/content_manager/page.php?ID=193734&dbc=93d25cd0a7e330c02680ceb1a0f6a3b9</a><br>

Does anyone know what the situation is? I'd like to know if I should stockpile a load of the stuff and keep it in the fridge or will I be able to buy it as and when I need it in the future.</p>

 

<p>Katie, I just looked at the sample shot on Flickr and because the streaks run across the neg rather than along its length, it looks to me like you have a problem with the camera rather than your developing. Does the lens look ok when off the camera? Do you have another lens to try?</p>

<p>The Massive Development Chart quotes 13.25 minutes for Tri-x @ 1600 in D-76 1+1. I've used that data myself and the negs were just fine.</p>

 

<p>Thank you very much Lex. That was exactly what I wanted to know. Assuming I use the Microphen, what difference would I see between stock solution and 1+1?</p>

 

<p>With respect, that's not the answer to the question I asked. That link gives Ilfords recommendation on which Ilford developer gives best results with Delta 3200.<br>

I asked what are the characteristics each of the three developers above when used with Delta 3200 i.e. grain, tonality, shadow detail, sharpness etc. I appreciate that Mircophen might be considered to be the "best" option but I wondered what how that would differ from the same film in Rodinal or D76.</p>

 

<p>I've just bought some Delta 3200 which I intend to shoot at 1600. I've got 3 film developers in my darkroom. I'm not really asking which developer will give the best results but rather how the results will differ with each developer in relation to the others with this film. I'm fairly inexperienced so its nice to draw on the experience of others and save a bit of money on wasted film.<br>

The developers I've got are:-<br>

D76, Rodinal and Mircophen.<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Hi Trevor, thanks for the advice. I use D-76 most of the time although I do have some rodinal but I don't think that's really suitable.</p>

 

<p>I was just wondering what would give best results in low light conditions at 1600 iso:- Delta 3200 or Tri-x 400? I've used Tri-x at 1600 before and it seems fine but would Delta 3200 be any better?</p>

 

<p>Thanks to everyone for their helpful replies. I'm using "Fotospeed" rapid fixer. It is only about a month old. I used it at 1+9 for 2 minutes as per the instructions. Being a beginner, I have tended to use the recommnended times for my chemicals.<br>

I now know that 2 minutes is not nearly enough. I'm happy to fix the film for 10 minutes in the knowlege that it won't damage it. I'd rather leave it in longer rather that have to re-fix it later. Thanks again.</p>

<p>First post here so hello to everyone. I'm a darkroom newbie. My first roll went well..... APX100 in Rodinal. I then tried Tri-x 400 in Rodinal but the negs were cloudy. Thinking it was the Rodinal/Tri-x combo, I bought some D76 for my next roll of Tri-x but it was still cloudy. I had a think about it and thought it might be the fixer. I did a search on photo.net which confirmed my suspicions. Unfortunately, I had already binned the first cloudy roll but I managed to salvage the other roll.<br>

For my next batch, I mixed up some fresh fixer but I still experienced some problems with the film not clearing, even though I increased the fixer time by 50%. For the next couple of rolls, I fixed for 8 minutes and it was fine.<br>

My question is... is it ok to keep the film in the rapid fix for 8-10 minutes? Can I damage the film by fixing it for too long?<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>