giverin

<p>Hi Michael, yes it does. For some reason I thought that because they listed 35mm and 120 film in separate columns, there must be a difference in development times but having looked at other film/development combos I can see that its not the case. I was just looking in the 35mm column.<br>

Mark, thanks for the info. I'll probably try that. </p>

<p>I shot some Acros (35mm) yesterday evening doing a prom shoot for a neighbour. I don't have a lot of experience with acros/rodinal so a couple of weeks ago I shot a test roll at E.I.50 and based on Chris Wallers advice here, developed in Rodinal 50+1 for 8 minutes. I was really happy with the results.</p>

<p>However, last evening, it was quite cloudy and I had to shoot at ISO100. The Massive Development Chart does not give a time for this combo so any advice would be welcome. I was also shooting with my DSLR and using the histogram, I found I was having to overexpose by 1/3 stop. This means that my film shots may be underexposed by 1/3 stop (both DSLR and SLR were Canon with similar metering). Is it worth overdevloping the film slightly or should I just develop normaly and compensate if required when I print the shots? Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Yes , Christer's comment did come across a bit pompous but in his defence, he made a very good suggestion, i.e. expose and develop another roll of Tri-x before developing his Venice films.</p>

 

<p>What do I call a reasonable price? Well that will depend on the other bidders :-)</p>

 

<p>I'd really like to try my hand at MF photography. I've seen so many great shots with a level of detail that my 35mm bodies couldn't match. I can't afford to spend a fortune. I only shoot b&w and do my own developing and printing. Luckily I do have a suitable MF lens and neg carrier for my enlarger.</p>

<p>I've seen a Minolta Autocord which I may be able to get for a reasonable price. Is this a good "first" MF camera? I know that it doesn't have built in metering but apart from that, it seems fine. I have read that the focusing lever can break off but it seems to be fine on this one.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance. </p>

<p>Hi Lex, I actually bought the Microphen last year on your recommendation to develop some Delta 3200 and TMY pushed to 1600. Someone else here in another thread recommended that I try it with Acros.</p>

<p>I will be exposing a test roll of Acros @ 100 and I intend to develop half the roll in Microphen and half in Rodinal. I'll certainly let you know how I got on but I'm still a bit of a novice and my analysis of the results may be lacking because of that. </p>

<p>Thanks Jeff & Lex.</p>

<p>Lex, if the concertina bottles are not completely airtight, particularly when in compression, the bottle will expand again. I just took the lid off my bottle that has been sealed since December and the fluid was still right at the top of the neck so I know that it has been airtight.<br>

I want to try the microphen with a test roll of Acros. If it works out, I'll buy some fresh microphen for the portrait shoot in June. My microphen will be 7 months old by then and I don't want to risk using it on important film.</p>

 

<p>I've got some Microphen that I mixed up in December. I've stored it in a black concertina bottle with the air expelled. How long is it likely to be useable for?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Thanks again to everyone who replied. I've decided that I'm probably going to use Acros in my main body and APX100 in my second body. Given the varying advice on the developer for the Acros, I'll probably shoot a test roll and develop half in Microphen and half in Rodinal and compare the results.</p>

<p>Thanks to everyone for their response. I see there is no general consensus but I suppose that's to be expected. Lilly, yes I will be processing the film myself. I currently have D-76, Microphen and Rodinal as my developers. It is interesting that Robert reckons that APX 100 is not great for portraits but Brooks reckons it would be fine. I guessing that the grain might be an issue on a 12"x16" print?</p>

<p>Robert has suggested using Tmax 400. I'm using that at the moment and I'm happy with it for general use. I did do some searching here and found some older posts suggesting that Tmax 400 was poor for portraits but I'm thinking that was the old TMax 400 and the new stuff is quite different.</p>

<p>Having taken all your advice and having done some reading, I'm leaning towards Acros 100. I've not used it before so I'll have to try a few rolls before the prom shoot but its quite a cheap film to buy. If I like it, I might even buy some bulk Legacy Pro as its even cheaper. </p>

<p>If I do go for the Acros 100, will it be ok to use my D-76? I don't really want to keep yet another developer.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>I've been asked to take some shots of the girl across the road before she goes to her prom night in June. I'll be using my DSLR for the colour shots but I want to take advantage of having a pretty young model and get some good b&w film shots.<br>

I'll be printing on 9.5"x12" paper and I also have a 50 pack of 16"x12" paper that I've been keeping for the right subject to come along. Bearing in mind the size of the final prints, what 35mm film would people recommend? Currently in the fridge I've got APX 100, TMax 400 and Tri-x 400 but there's time to pick up something else if needed. I hope to be shooting outside in the early evening but if the weather is bad I'll be shooting inside with flash.<br>

I do have two film bodies so I suppose I could have two different films on the go.<br>

Any advice greatly appreciated. </p>

<p>Thanks for the super quick answer Larry.</p>

<p>Bit of a basic question but I've just got a load of Rollei Retro 100 35mm that I want to store in the freezer. The rolls are in their plastic canisters. Do I just store it like that or do I have to seal the canisters in a plastic bag or suchlike? </p>

<p>Thanks to everyone for their advice. I developed the roll this morning using 1+200 for 2 hours with a 1 minute agitation at the start. The negs look fine (to my unexperienced eye) with no sign of the uneven development I had before but I don't have a film scanner so I'll have to wait until I can print a few of them off later on this week before I know how successful it was. Thanks again.</p>

 

<p>Last month I had my first attempt at stand development with rodinal and APX 100. To be honest, I didn't really research it properly and I ended up using 1+100 for 50 minutes with no agitation at all. The negatives were not too bad but there was uneven developement at the top of the film (35mm).</p>

<p>I've just shot another roll of APX 100 and I want to try the technique again. I understand from posts here that proper stand development is 1+200 so I'm keen to give that a try. The question is.... how long to develop for and do I give it any agitation? I'm aware that when mixing up my rodinal, I should use 4ml or more to get an accurate mix. That will enable me to fill the tank to more than the 300ml I normally use, ensuring the the film is well and truly covered.</p>

<p>I use a condenser enlarger for my printing if thats of any help. So to recap.... how long and how much agitation.</p>

<p>Thanks. </p>

<p>Thanks for that Robert.</p>

<p>I know that APX 100/ Rollei Retro 100 is out of production and that they produced a lot of it before production stopped but it will run out eventually and I've read elsewhere that its starting to run out now.</p>

<p>I'm trying to figure out how much to buy now. The APX 100 I have now is dated 05/2011 and I would imagine that the Rollei Retro 100 out there will have a similar date. So I really want to know how long this will remain usable if kept in the fridge?</p>

<p>On a seperate note, how does Rollei Retro 80 compare? I know its based on a film used for aerial photography and some people seem to rate it highly. More importantly, its still in production. </p>

<p>Hi Frank, the clip is still there. I guess I'm just a bit too enthuisiastic with my twirling. As I said earlier, I did start off with inversion agitation and I never experienced problems. Its only a single tank and there is always 300ml of developer so its always fully submenrged.</p>

 

<p>Frank, you talk about the agitation being too gentle but I've found that with my Paterson tank, I can't agitate too quickly because the stick engages in the reel spindle but that spindle is only a tight fit in the reel and when you try and agitate too hard you can feel the reel slipping on the spindle.<br>

I used to agitate by inversion but I've tried rotary inversion for the past couple of months. I'll probably go back to inversion. My tank doesn't leak that much. Oddly enough its the fixer that seems to provoke a few drips. Its obviously more viscous than the developer and stop.</p>

 

<p>Christer, that is very interesting. I used to agitate by inversion but latterly I started rotary agitation. The results of your experiment will perhaps surprise some people but I think you would have to repeat the experiment using the inversion method and compare the two results before reaching any meaningful conclusion.</p>

<p>Yeah, you can agitate by inversion as suggested but if you wanted to use rotary agitation, you could easily use a wooden dowel or rod with a slot cut in it.</p>

 

<p>Thanks Mircea but looking at the macrodirect website it seems that they have a 46.50 euro minimum order.</p>

<p>That is a good price for the Rollei Retro 100. I've just paid £13 for 4 rolls of APX 100. I wish you had posted your link about a week ago ;-)<br>

I use Rodinal 1+50 for my APX 100. I think I bought that from Silverprint along with some stop bath, fix and paper developer. That took the total over Silverprints £25 minimum order (why do they do that). I've still got some left but I think I'll be buying it elsewhere next time.<br>

Anyway, I've bookmarked your link for the Rollei Retro 100, thanks.</p>

<p>I've just come across this press release which it fairly recent:-<br>

<a href="http://reviews.photographyreview.com/blog/agfa-film-re-introduced-in-north-america/2/">http://reviews.photographyreview.com/blog/agfa-film-re-introduced-in-north-america/2/</a><br>

I don't know if this means that they are starting production of agfa film again or just distrubuting stock that has already been produced. Good news for you guys on the other side of the pond anyway.</p>

 

<p>I've been digging around to see if I could find out any more on the subject and some info I found on Kodak's site would appear to suggest that the the guy I was debating with had a good point. I quote from Kodak:-<br>

"<strong>NOTE 2:</strong> Push-processing involves over-development of film to increase the effective speed and density of underexposed images on color-negative and black-and-white films. On color-reversal films (slides), push-processing on underexposed images decreases the density range. X-ray exposure has the potential to degrade the quality of images that will be push processed."</p>