va3uxb

November 6, 2009

Thanks for the tips! The little scale thing for the meter is definately something that ought never come off and there aren't any moving parts in the spot it goes - actually it's even obvious where they put 3 dots of glue in the first place. For the frame around the viewfinder, I'll remove the camera top-plate first so that I don't risk getting any glue/epoxy on that. I can see where they had the glue there before.

The only thing it could be bumping / rubbing against in my purse is actually a small flash (Canolite D)... I bought the purse especially because it had a small pouch that was the perfect fit for a smallish camera. It's the perfect size for a small rangefinder or even my Nettar folder. The Rollei is small enough I can carry it plus the flash. I didn't think about the flash and camera bumping around though - I'll see if I can add some padding to keep them separate.

Re. posting some photos, I know I'm tardy with that - I tend to post my pictures on <a href="http://planetstephanie.net/category/photography/">my website</a> then forget about sharing them elsewhere. Also, I don't think my skill level is good enough to fit in with everyone here.

Thanks again!

November 5, 2009

Yesterday two small parts suddenly fell off my Rollei B35! :( I haven't abused the camera at all, although I suspect a former owner or two were kind of tough on it. I got it about a month ago, and it works well and takes good pictures, even the meter is working perfectly.

Then yesterday I noticed that the little scale next to the meter was missing (found it in my purse) and then the plastic 'frame' around the viewfinder fell off.

Can I just glue these pieces back on? What kind of glue would be best? The viewfinder frame is probably not so critical (although without it, dust will certainly get into the camera's upper area...) The scale for the meter is most-noticable and without it, there's a little flat spring that could get lost.

I don't want to use crazy-glue as the fumes from that could foul things up. Maybe a two-part epoxy?

Thanks!<div></div>

November 4, 2009

I know I've had a few people eye me suspiciously when I was out taking photos around the neighborhood. Especially with my homemade pinhole camera, nobody can tell what it is or what I'm doing with it - they just see me pointing a wooden box at things then standing around next to it for a minute or so before moving along.

I haven't had any chats with the local law enforcement yet, however.

November 4, 2009

<div>

00UvEs-186905584.jpg.e030a177fe4ecc656ee963c70327b717.jpg

</div>

November 3, 2009

As long as the screwdriver blade is narrow enough to fit into the screw, it may just be a question of needing enough strength to get it started. You could also try a tiny drop of something to loosen the screw, either a drop of naptha (lighter fluid) or maybe a drop of WD40. I wouldn't spray stuff right on the camera, but if you can squirt some of it on a q-tip or something and use that to carefully apply it around the screw...

Other than that, I don't know what to suggest - the screws on mine were normal threads, turn to the left to unscrew. I know the one ontop of the winder needs to be quite tight, otherwise the winder won't wind (it just slips around).

October 31, 2009

Thanks for the comments! I've got some Kodak 'New 400VC' negative film, I'll give that a try next.

I actually did use a light meter for the dusk/evening shots but then I guessed at how much time to add for the reciprocity failure. They could have come out a bit brighter, but they do look pretty close to what it was like at the time when I took them - grey and getting dark.

Cheers!

October 30, 2009

Aw sorry to hear you first roll didn't turn out. How did you go about building it? What did you use for a pinhole? I'm no expert but maybe I can help you figure out what went wrong.

I posted some more pics and info on mine in the Alternative forum, in <a href="../alternative-cameras-forum/00UiYK">this thread</a>. I also posted some colour shots I did with it, in <a href="../alternative-cameras-forum/00Ur88">this thread</a>.

October 27, 2009

Over the last two weeks I ran a roll of Fuji Astia (ISO 100) slide film through my <a href="../alternative-cameras-forum/00UiYK">home-made pinhole camera</a>.

The results came out pretty good I think, considering the conditions and that I was mostly guessing the exposures. I took about half the roll when it was sunny, and the other half at dusk on a grey and damp night.

This first shot was taken by setting the camera down on the ground facing straight up through some trees. These trees are always last to turn in the autumn, so they're still quite green.

This image had a great sunburst effect in it, I am guessing the sun must have caught on a tiny edge or flaw in the pinhole, to cause this effect. I did a lousy job of scanning it though which kind of ruins the effect (dust on the scanner.)

This last one during the sun, caught some sunlight filtering through the trees. The colour shots are quite fun with the pinhole camera, I just wish I could process colour at home. These first three were exposed for about 8 seconds IIRC.

This shot was at dusk under a grey sky, cold and damp. The exposure was roughly 1 minute.

Last shot, same conditions as above. This tree is always the first to lose its leaves in the autumn.

I really want to try to find time to get some more colour pinhole shots in before all the trees have lost their colour for the winter.

October 25, 2009

My local camera shop had a showcase full of used gear (film, digital, etc.) and I'd always stop by and look at it whenever I was there. Then suddenly it all vanished - I asked what happened and they said it was all shipped to their main location, destined to end up on ebay. They said every shop in the chain did the same thing, so they only sell the used gear via ebay now - no chance to examine or inspect, or just window-shop.

There's not a single film camera left in the shop now - and their entire film stock consists of about 2 dozen rolls of 35mm.

Sigh.

October 24, 2009

I normally hate getting my picture taken - that's one of the reasons I like to be 'the photographer', so I can avoid being in the photos, hehe.

I took this pic last night with my newest toy, a Rollei B35. Tiny camera, no self timer, and the shoe is next to the tripod mount so I had to choose..hence the poor composition. I was holding the camera, trying to aim, press the release with my thumb, et cetera.

Behind me, from left to right, are: wood & brass 6x6 format pinhole camera (not old though, I made it a few weeks ago); Minolta X-370 SLR; Zeiss Ikon Nettar; Fujica 35-SE; and you can just see the side of my Hanimex RF35. Hidden behind my head was my Canonet GIII QL17.

Behind the cameras are a pair of pieces from another of my hobbies / interests; a modern reproduction of a 14th century falchion and a modern interpretation of a Chinese jian.<div></div>

October 23, 2009

It's pretty easy Dani - here's a step-by-step for you though - you'll see how easy it is!

<ol>

<li>You'll need a slot screwdriver that is rather 'sharp', i.e. skinny but about 3mm wide. Jewelers' or watchmakers' screwdrivers are a good choice.</li>

<li>Holding the camera as if you were going to use it (i.e. right-side up with lens forward) unscrew the right-most screw, and remove the screw and the round metal 'disk' beneath it.</li>

<li>Now unscrew the screw on the winder knob. Remove it and the winder knob. Be careful not to lose any tensioning washers under the knob.</li>

<li>Finally, with the winder knob out of the way you will see a third screw that was hidden. Unscrew and remove this one as well. (All three screws are slightly different shaped, make sure not to mix them up.)</li>

<li>With the three screws gone, the top plate lifts straight off. Don't tip or turn the camera over yet, keep it upright.</li>

<li>The shutter release button lifts straight out, remove it and put it somewhere safe.</li>

<li>The button to open the front of the camera also lifts straight out, remove it too. (One of these two buttons has a spring under it but I don't remember which, keep the spring with the button.)</li>

<li>(I removed the two buttons to ensure they wouldn't fall out while I was moving the camera around doing the cleaning.)</li>

<li>At this point you now have full access to the viewfinder glass. There is a front element and a back element. They are held in place by a thin metal frame. You can either clean them in place, or carefully remove them (be careful to note which side is which so you don't turn them around).</li>

<li>I used a drop of windex on a q-tip to clean them. I left the rear (round) one in place but removed the front (square) one to give it a good scrub.</li>

<li>Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.</li>

</ol>

That's all there is to it! It only took me about 10 minutes start to finish. I have two pictures from the process <a href="http://planetstephanie.net/2009/10/20/home-camera-repair-nettar/">on my website</a>.

October 23, 2009

My Paterson 2-reel tank doesn't have a bump in it either. I've always used the twist paddle for agitation though, and haven't seen any issues or problems with the film edges.

October 21, 2009

I'm shooting MF more and more lately - and I only just got interested in it a few months ago.

6x6 is now my favorite format but I just got a Fujica GS645 as I'm partial to rangefinders. I certainly hope the film will be around for a long time to come!

October 21, 2009

I don't think I still have the leader laying around - I usually toss both end bits after I've processed and scanned the negs, but I'll have another look for it.

The camera I used was a Canonet GIII QL17, the shutter is neither horizontal or vertical - it's circular, like an aperture. Leaf shutter, I think it's called?

At any rate, it's a very bizzare occurance. It's like the film was anti-fogged, since the affected area is less-dense than the rest. I don't know if that's even possible, maybe the x-rays knocked something out of the film or somehow de-sensitized it?

I processed more film last night, same chemicals, same reel, same everything and it came out fine. The only change was this time was 120 film rather than 35mm. Maybe this was a one-off oddball occurance.

The only other thing that crosses my mind is this was my first roll of HP5+ out of a pack of 5... maybe something happened to the film before I bought it. So I've two things to watch for in the future - when I finally get the E6 film processed that was next to this film at the dentist, will it be similarily affected? And when I use my next roll of HP5+, will it show a similar problem?

For now, I've just cropped the images where the line was a problem, and will just chalk this up as a mystery. Thanks again everyone for your responses!

October 20, 2009

I'm quite certain there was no problem with the amount of developer or the reel floating. I had filled the tank right to the top, and when I opened it at the end of the process the reel was still secure at the bottom of the tank.

The only thing I've thought of would be if there were some left-over water in the tank from the pre-rinse. If there was some water at the bottom when I poured the developer in, then was slow in starting the agitation, then maybe that could have caused the problem. I don't know if it would have left such a sharp line though.

Aside from that possibility, I'm thinking it may have been the x-rays as well, though it is definately a puzzler. I had a second camera in my purse but haven't had that film processed yet. (It's colour slide film so I have to send it out for processing.) I guess if it comes back with any issues, it will be more suggestive that the x-rays were responsible.

At any rate - next time I go to the dentist, I'll leave my cameras at home or in the car, just to be safe!

October 20, 2009

Thanks for all the responses! Sorry I should have included more info about my developing process.

I use a Patterson super-system 4 tank, my tank holds 2 35mm reels or 1 120 reel. In this case I had just one reel in there with this film. When I pour the developer, I pour in one smooth continuous pour and I pour till the tank is full (i.e. when the developer stops going down to the bottom part of the tank.)

I know some people say that the reels can slip and float to the top of the tank, but I've never had that happen, and even if it were to happen, the tank is full so it shouldn't matter. When I opened the tank after the fixing was done, the reel was still at the bottom as usual.

Based on all the info, I'm thinking this was an agitation issue - normally I agitate for a full minute to start with then 10 seconds every minute afterwards, but after I put the developer in, I was distracted by something and didn't start agitating for about 30 seconds... it's the only thing I can think of at the moment.

October 19, 2009

Thanks everyone for the info. I just finished cleaning the viewfinder on my old Nettar and it was a snap - took less than 10 minutes!

There are only three screws to remove, none of them with left-hand threads. On the right-hand side is a screw that is over where you load the film spool. On the left-hand side you remove the screw that holds the winding knob down. Then after the winding knob is away, there is a screw beneath it. With those three gone, the top plate lifts off. The shutter release button and the button to open the front just lift out.

The viewfinder lenses are not fixed in place but seem to be held in place by friction-fit, so they are apt to fall out if worked at too hard. I used some little cotton tipped sticks, and a drop of windex. Cleared a good layer of gunk off, very easily.

Now the viewfinder is crystal clear, it's amazingly bright! That was the only service the camera needed, it feels practicaly brand-new - not bad for about sixty-years old!

October 19, 2009

P.S. I don't know whether the film was right-side up or upside-down in the tank, but I do know that there was more than enough developer. It's a two-reel tank but I put enough developer in to fill the tank.

Here's a larger image of the negatives...

October 19, 2009

I just processed some film that I shot over the weekend, and have found a strange wavy line that goes through all the images. The wavy line appears to be lighter than the rest of the negative, and is only visible on the exposed parts of the film - it doesn't appear in between the frames. It is even faintly visible on the leader part of the negative. It is as if this thin wavy part of the negative was less-developed than the rest of the film.

I'm wondering if this is a case of 'operator error', if I did something wrong when developing? It's Ilford HP5+, I used T-Max 1:4 processing, and following the timing info in the Massive Dev Chart. This is the first time I've had a problem like this with my developing.

One other thing that crossed my mind, is that I had this film in my camera in my purse during a dentist visit on Saturday - they took one x-ray while I was there. The camera was 'behind' the machine (i.e. the machine was aimed away from the camera) but maybe the x-rays aren't that directional? I looked at the Kodak web page about baggage x-rays and the wavy line does resemble some of the examples there, but it's wierd because my understanding is that x-rays would cause a dark line rather than a light line.

So... was it dental x-rays, or did I mess up the developing?

October 19, 2009

I'd have to say my Zeiss Ikon Nettar (517/16) is my sexiest camera. Every time I unfold it and the lens pops into position, I fall in love with this camera.

My Canonet GIII QL17 and I have a strong stable relationship, but I just can't say no to the Nettar...

October 17, 2009

I like the effect. I think the first image of the canal is beautiful.

October 16, 2009

Today I had another go at fixing my Hanimex RF35. I eventually was able to get the top plate off, and found that the fault was a broken solder joint at one of the battery connectors. While I was in there, I learned some more about how the camera works, though still have no clue who made it. It now seems to be working properly, though as I feared, I've left some cosmetic 'damage'...

Part of the decorative trim were two thin metal strips that were held down with 2-sided tape, and in peeling these metal strips off, they got bent and I can't straighten them back out enough. The leatherette went back on easily enough, but without the metal strips it is obviously incompletely. I could possibly replace the leatherette with some new material and just omit the metal bits completely.

I'll worry about that later though. For now, I'm just pleased to have fixed what was broken.

October 16, 2009

My dad's Fujica SE35 rangefinder was my first first real camera. It was 10 years older than me and was over 20 years old when he gave it to me. The first real camera that I got new was a Minolta X-370 SLR.

October 14, 2009

Thanks for the info! I'm going to shoot a roll with it first then I'll have a go at the cleaning. There are 5 screws along the top; one on the winding knob, one on the opposite side that presumably holds the full film roll in place, and three on the accessory shoe.

Cheers!

October 14, 2009

I've just acquired a Zeiss Ikon Nettar 517/16. I have to say, as soon as I saw it, I adored it. It has the f/4.5 lens and a 'Pronto' shutter. It's my first folder and it appears to be in near-perfect condition, with the exception of the viewfinder.

It is still usable, but rather foggy. Does anyone know if there's an "easy" way to fix / clear that?

Examining the camera, it looks like maybe if I remove the screws along the top, I could perhaps just lift the top piece off and then have access to the viewfinder elements. On the other hand, looking at the viewfinder, it's hard to tell if the fogginess is due to dirt/dust inside, or if it's the elements themselves just going funky with age.

As the camera is in otherwise great condition, I don't want to risk doing any harm to it.

Thanks!

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