va3uxb

<p>I have a similar wheel on my Fujica 35-SE. As Dave said, it's just there as a reminder. Like some cameras had a little slot you could drop the cardboard boxtop into, or some have a window in the film compartment so you can see the cannister, it is strictly there as a reminder to the operator, so next time you pick the camera up you know what kind of film is in there (if any).</p>

<p>Cheers!</p>

<p>Thanks for all the info and feedback! I do love this camera, and took it out yesterday for some shooting but the entire event was a disaster. My sister and I were going to visit a 'scenic' location, a small waterfall we'd heard about. It was a bright sunny day (blue sky, hard shadows) so I loaded the camera with ISO 100 film and figured the exposure lattitude could handle being overexposed a bit.</p>

<p>When we got to where our directions led us, it turned out that the waterfall was at the end of a short but arduous hike, and neither of us were prepared. I took a hard tumble on the way there, the Hawk-Eye went flying several feet, hit the ground then rolled another dozen feet or so. Surprisingly and happily, the camera was completely uninjured, unlike myself.</p>

<p>I hobbled on though, determined to get to the waterfall. When we finally reached it, I completely failed to clue in to the fact that although the sun was shining brightly, we and the falls were completely under dense forest cover. So I happily snapped and wound my way through the roll of film, and recorded nothing at all. The only frame that came out was the one I shot before we left, of my sister and her dog. The rest of the negatives were all but blank, save for a few of the faintest shadows, where some sunlight had managed to filter through to illuminate a bit of foliage here and there.</p>

<p>I did have a second camera with me and a few of those shots were passable, but they belong in another thread.</p>

<div></div>

<p>They look great! I really like the colours in the second image.</p>

<p>I've been using the Jobo / Tetenal kit since July, and I was wondering about adding a quick wash between the dev. and the blix stages. I ended up not doing it, but it does seem like a good idea.</p>

<p>Thanks for all the feedback and info!</p>

<p>Re. the numbers, I know they're not important and the first roll has already revealed more than numbers could but... I like numbers. (And specs and details.)</p>

<p>It's going to be another light overcast day today, so I'll try some colour film next and see how that goes. </p>

<p>Thanks again!</p>

<p>Another quick question I just remembered - the viewfinder on this camera is absolutely tiny, and very hard to see through. I can't tell if it is fogged / dirty, or if that is just normal for "brilliant finders". </p>

<p>Are these cameras known for having hard-to-use finders?</p>

<p>I just received my newest oldest camera, the Kodak Rainbow No. 2 Hawk-Eye, Model C. In beautiful red. From what I've read, this was originally designed in 1913 but was re-released in 1930.</p>

<p><img src="http://planetstephanie.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Kodak_No_2_Mod_C-565x486.jpg" alt="" width="565" height="486" /></p>

<p>My research suggests that the shutter speed is probably about 1/30th but I was unable to find any further technical / exposure information. I took some measurements and guessed the aperture at about f/6, but after seeing the results I think it maybe has a smaller aperture rating, like f/8 or f/11.</p>

<p>I was eager to see how the camera would perform so I rushed a roll through it as soon as I got home from work. I used Shanghai GP3 (ISO 100 - Developed for 7:30 in T-Max 1:4) as I have oodles of it. Based on my guesstimate of the exposures, the heavy-overcast weather seemed like it would be ideal. </p>

<p><img src="http://planetstephanie.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/No2_test_003-399x600.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p><img src="http://planetstephanie.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/No2_test_006-565x372.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Those shots, under an overcast sky and in my heavily shaded backyard, came out rather too dark. I took some out the front which is not shaded and the sky was in the process of clearing a bit so perhaps light overcast, which proved much more appropriate lighting for this camera.</p>

<p><img src="http://planetstephanie.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/No2_test_008-401x600.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>I am curious, if anyone knows what the actual aperture rating is for these cameras? And also, what would the typical film speed have been, back then?</p>

<p>Cheers!</p>

<p>Great results, great camera. Thanks for sharing!<br>

My first SLR - and the first camera that was actually mine rather than a loaner - was the X700's cheaper sibling, the X370. I still have it, almost 30 years later it still works great.</p>

<p>Very nice images - I too quite like Irene's Fury, and the Quiet Cyclone Tracks as well. The "No Parking" sign sounds like a close call, glad you were able to avoid it.</p>

<p>I used to paint, my work appeared in some shows, I sold a few originals. I retain copyright of the images, even if I've sold the original. In the (highly unlikely) event that someone wanted to take a photo of one of my paintings and then sell copies, I would want and expect to receive payment/royalties because I retain the rights to the image - even if I've sold the original painting.</p>

<p>I'd like to think the same would go for photographs. If you sell a print (or even just have it on display somewhere), then someone photographs or otherwise copies that image, you wouldn't want them turning around and selling their duplication of your work. </p>

<p>I would expect the same to be true of sculptures, whether they are on public display or not. Granted in the 2d world a picture of a picture could be nearly identical, where with 3d objects the picture is not as much 'the same', but it feels to me that the same rules should apply: if one wouldn't show or sell photos of someone else's photo (or painting) then one shouldn't do the same thing with sculpture.</p>

<p>There does seem to me to be a big fuzzy grey line though as to where a photo would stop being just a picture of someone else's work, and start being one's own original work. A shot of a piece of artwork in its environment, or of people enjoying or interacting with it, or a wider shot (or a building, area, whatever) that happens to contain someone else's work, would all seem to me to be the difference between creating something new, and not just a copy of something.</p>

<p>It turns out that the "L" stands for... love. Or love and attention. The stickiness has all but gone away now that I've been actually operating the camera - it was probably just stiff from not being used for who-knows how long.</p>

<p>I've popped in a film cartridge (reloaded with 35mm film) and hope to have some images to share in the very near future.</p>

<p>Thank you all for your help!</p>

<p>Thanks for all the info! I studied watchmaking a few years ago and they said a lot of the same things about lubricant - if you don't know what and where, then don't.</p>

<p>I opened it up and tried to get a close-up picture of the area I'm looking at. While I was in there, I removed some small bits of gunk and in doing so, discovered that what I thought was black metal was actually some kind of hard plastic.</p>

<p>In the attached photo (not taken with a CMC, sorry), the shutter release has a horizontal set-screw / pin with a rounded tip, which slides along the 'black ramp' area. When the shutter release gets stuck at the bottom, if I probe this area with a fine screwdriver, that lets the shutter release pop back up again to its normal position. This plastic has a very faint wear line in it, but does not appear damaged as near as I can tell.</p>

<p>I have not tried tweaking that horizontal set-screw, but that might be the solution.</p>

<p>Thanks again!</p><div></div>

<p>Hi Mark! I should have thought to snap a picture while I was working on it earlier... it's not the plunger itself, that piece is fine. Beneath it, the actual mechanical bit that moves down when the plunger pushes on it... I can see the part that ought to be lubricated - it's like a metal ramp thats worn with use. It seems dry and dark, and the mechanism should ride up and down smoothly on this but when it's at the bottom (after the pressing the shutter release) it seems like the return spring is getting just a bit too much competition from friction.</p>

<p>If a photo would help I can pull the top on it and take a close-up of it?</p>

<p>I've recently acquired a Minolta Autopak 700 for my small 126 collection, and I'm very excited to run some film through it, except I find that it isn't quite in the condition I had expected.</p>

<p>I don't know if it's just a matter of being well-used, or if a former-owner has had at it before me, but there were rather a few loose screws on it when I received it. I had to partially remove the front of the lens assembly in order to find & tighten some screws to get the rangefinder working. (I didn't see anything loose that looked 'adjustable' so I hope I won't have to actually tweak it for focusing.)</p>

<p>The problem I am facing at the moment is a great deal of stickiness / sluggishness in the area in and around the winder and shutter release. After tripping the shutter, the mechanism is sometimes quite slow and stiff in terms of rebounding to the normal position, and this in turn leaves the winder locked and the index pin 'stuck'. With the top off the camera I can poke the appropriate part and get it to pop back out, but I am thinking it really needs some lube to get it to run smoothly.</p>

<p>What I don't know is what is the appropriate sort of stuff to put in there. Something like grease? Or something like oil?</p>

<p>Thanks & cheers!</p>

<p>Beautiful pictures. I especially liked "Under the Rocks" and "It's like another world".</p>

<p>I have used both the DigitaLiza in 35mm and 120 format. It works pretty well for film that wants to curl up like it was in the can, but for film that wants to curl along the other axis (like film that wants to turn into a tube) the DigitaLiza is a tremendous excercise in frustration.</p>

<p>Mind you, for film that wants to curl into a tube the Epson masks don't really help either. I have the V500Photo.</p>

<p>One bit of advice I got at the Lomo store (I specifically asked for tips with the scanning masks) was to leave the negative strips longer than the DigitaLiza so they stick out on either side. I am loath to do this as it pinches them, but it does help quite a bit when the film is very, very curly.</p>

<p>I've been using the 35mm one for scanning my 126 film, as the Epson mask blocks some of the 126 exposure.</p>

<p>Thanks for the input Jacob.<br>

It reads just like an advert for Wikipedia, without actualy attempting to answer any questions.<br>

Cheers</p>

<p>I intend to try and process the film myself - it's C-41, so I'll just dump it in the tank and see what happens. I know it'd be cost-prohibitive to send it to someone else to get it done. And I know that unexposed disc-film is almost unobtainable now - so if the disc that was in the camera is unexposed, I'd like to be the one to expose it as I never played with them back in the 80's.</p>

<p>Well, since disc cameras are so cheap, I'll pick up another one next time I come aross one, and see if this disc will work in another camera. </p>

<p>Thanks for the input!</p>

<p>I wasn't sure if this question was better-suited for this forum or the Alternative forum, it seems to fit in both / either. Apologies if I picked wrong.</p>

<p>I came across a Kodak Disc 8000 camera at a thrift store yesterday and for a few dollars figured I'd add it to my collection, as I've never owned one before, not even when they were actually popular. It was a complete package with the camera, box, instructions, etc. all neatly packed.</p>

<p>When I got the camera home, I discovered it still had film in it! The indicator was showing "1". I read through the instructions which led me to understand that this meant the film was at the start of the disc (it would go up to 15 then display an "X" when finished.)</p>

<p>The camera still has power, but when I press the shutter release there is just a whirring sound but the shutter doesn't open, the flash doesn't fire, and the disc doesn't spin. I removed the disc knowing I might lose the first frame, and without the disc in place, I can see the spindle thing does spin properly when the shutter release is pressed. I've tried rotating the disc by hand, turning the little hub part, and it moves but feels stiff.</p>

<p>I did some googling and found two other posts that echo my observations - with film loaded their cameras also make a whirring noise but don't do anything. No answers or solutions, however.</p>

<p>So here's what I'm wondering, and hoping someone has some experience with this format: </p>

<ul>

<li>Does this sound like the camera itself is broken, but the film might be ok?</li>

<li>Does this sound like the camera might be ok but the film is probably jammed?</li>

</ul>

<p>As I've no prior experience with the format, I'm wondering - what's to stop the disc from going round and round for double exposures? That is, if I shoot 15 frames and it gets to the "X", does the film pack itself 'lock'? Or could a person accidentally (or on purpose) put an exposed pack back in the camera and have it work? I'm wondering this because if the film pack is jammed, maybe that's because it's been exposed?</p>

<p>At the moment I'm leaning towards it being a camera malfunction, but I'm hoping that someone with more experience can confirm. If that is the case, I'll find another disc camera just for the fun of having a go with the film.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance!</p>

<p>If I had children, I probably wouldn't be able to afford my hobbies any more, hehe.<br>

When my nieces and nephew are older, I plan on introducing them to classic photography to see if there is any interest there.<br>

My sister agreed when I suggested that they might enjoy it as a one-day project to start with, by letting them try out a film camera then ending the day with us all developing the film together.</p>

<p>The furthest back I can go (accurately) with my photography is 1983 - here's a picture from June 1983, at the first photography course I ever took. We were learning darkroom skills too, so this was my first time developing my own film, doing prints, everything. It was a blast!</p>

<p>Plus-X Pan shot with my dad's Fujica 35-SE (not the one I have now with the light leaks).</p>

<div></div>

<p>I'm sure you'll get images from them, but the results could be unpredictable. For what its worth, I just an expired shot a roll of Kodak 126 VR-G 200 last week. This roll expired in 1990 and has been stored at room temperature for the past 2 years, and who-knows-what before that.<br>

The results were inconsistant from the beginning to the end (though I don't know how reliable the AE is on my Rollei A26) but I did get images on all 12 exposures. <br>

Good luck & have fun!</p><div></div>

<p>I don't use either of these. My normal workflow with film is scan, crop, save. The only tweaking I do is to use the scanner's dust-removal function. Then I just use iPhoto to save the files.<br>

The only exception was with some found film recently, I had to do scan as positives then used the free GIMP to adjust the curves to bring out the images.<br>

Cheers!</p>

<p>Cliff, thank you for all the tips and putting so much effort into this!</p>

<p>I'm going to run a test roll through the camera and use some black electrical tape to seal the back and see if that does solve the problem - if it does then I'll see if I can find a source for the sealing foam. (Is Interslice still around? I had a look on the auction place and didn't see any kits for sale.)</p>

<p>When I was taking a close look at the camera the other day I couldn't figure out how light might be getting through the top plate, around the sprocket drive and take-up spool. It is very suspicious though that the leaks line up with those two spots, as you pointed out.</p>

<p>Thanks again!</p>

<p>Very cool! It's like a bit of an adventure to see that there are images when you take it out of the tank. </p>