John Di Leo

I am using my d810 for artwork reproduction, paintings mostly of various sizes. I am using my much loved 24-70 Nikkor 2.8 G ED. I am trying to make sure that the sensor and the lean of the painting is coplanar. I am using manual focus and have used both the M/A and the M on the lens and AF and M on the body in all combinations, but the result is the same, IOW that setting makes no difference on the issue. I am on a tripod, using a timer shutter, shooting RAW. The problem is not shutter related; shutter speed does not make a difference. I use live view to focus, zooming in to the max to critically adjust focus, and achieve it. I trip the shutter and when I review the resulting "playback" image it is not the same sharpness as when I was focusing. It's slightly, but noticeably, off. Some degree of pixel peeping is required, but it can be seen on the camera. The images are still very usable, fortunately (shooting and processing art can be kinda hard!) but why does my focus seem to miss during capture when it was tack sharp in live view? Is the sensor better at showing a live view image because it is live, and capturing something digitally, then digitally displaying it, will always be second best. Or is something happening in my lens or body that causes it? I am able to recover the sharpness I think (still awaiting the client's word on it) using wither Topaz Photo AI or Sharpness AI. In my researching it I see there is a fine tuning for AF, but that I presume is something completely different. Thanks John

I am allowed to see service progress, but at this point it is not particularly informative. This is what I see when I check: Shop Nikon Z 8 Order Number: 73xxxxxxx Serial Number: 30045xx UPS Tracking Number: EDIT—this area is blank at this time, so not tracking number at this time Problem: REPAIR PRODUCT TO GOOD WORKING ORDER Repair Bayonet Mount REPAIR DONE AT NO CHARGE FOR GOODWILL Total cost of repair: $0.00* To check the status of another repair, Click here. * This price is an estimate and is subject to change. Please note if the price quote does not change, you are accepting these service charges. Your credit card will be charged when service is completed.

Alright, more info. I got an email from Nikon in Melville, NY. It documents no charge for the service. At the bottom of the estimate was a line stating "to approve this estimate" do yada yada yada. So, I called them asking if there was anything I should be doing. Nope. This was just a standard form, and the repair will proceed. The repair is listed as simply "repair bayonet mount." I asked if there was anything more specific than that. Nope. They will email me a tracking number and if I don't hear from them in "7-15 business days" I should call back. I asked the turnaround time, he told me they should start to work on it "tomorrow," they've had it since yesterday. Then he said that repairs will be done in 7-15 business days then another 7 business days for shipping. I commented that I may be without the camera for maybe a month and he agreed. He did say that they have a lot of cameras in there for the recall. I think, without any good reason for doing so, that it will be faster than that. It's supposed to be a simple fix, right? Actually I'm ok with it because in no way did I expect to receive the camera when purchased as quickly as I did; I figured it would be like the z9 in delayed shipment. And I still have my trusty d810, which ain't no slouch. I'll post as I hear from them.

I called Berger Bros and they did not receive it, nor do they do repairs, so It must've gone somewhere else. Berger tells me there is a Nikon Service center in Melville, NY and that is nearby, so maybe it went there.

My camera arrived at the repair place, and that seems to be a local camera shop in Jericho, NY called Berger-Bros Camera Shop (?). Delivered On Wednesday, July 05 at 10:47 A.M. at Receiver

Right, it went by ground, and July 4th was in the mix. I just tracked it and it is Saddle Brook, NJ now, going to Jericho, NY for repair. The distance between the 2 is 42 miles.

Ok, so I sent my Z8 away today, Wednesday, June 28th at around 1p, central time, at the UPS store. Tracking, from Nikon, tells me it should arrive in NY by 7/5—it's coming from New Orleans. I'll detail how long before it returns.

That's a good point, but with 3 function buttons that can be programed, it could be actuated while a func button is pressed and go away when pressure is released. Also, there are other cameras that do offer it; Leica I believe does.

yes, fully agree. It seems to be working fine as the FTZ seems securely attached and I have no Z lenses (yet). @mike_halliwell yes, that is what I mean by finagle, Mirriam Webster defines finagle as "manipulate, engineer, manage, wangle, maneuver" It seems to be normally locked into place. It feels like it is. The "catch" is when the FTZ is first inserted and turning begins...it hits something immediately and catches. It "feels" superficial like the flange of the mount and only one of them...I think. All of the retaining screws look to be fully seated. It does not happen every time. I just tried it a few times and the problem did not happen. It also didn't happen when I first attached the FTZ. I'm betting it's something minor and a simple fix if the parts are ava. I am REALLY glad though that I didn't trade in my d810, and I may keep it for a while just for a backup as needed

That's what I did, right after I saw your warning on this site. Mine was affected. There was a link to start the return and the last(?) part of that was the shipping label and that is what I screen shot. I am in no hurry to send it in as the FTZ2 is currently attached and all is functioning electronically. If I could have sent it this morning, I would have, tryng to "beat the rush."

Is this possible for stills? I see the setting for it in video, but not for stills. There is the setting that shows the overexposed areas POST capture, but I'm looking for PRE capture zebras. DPreview says it's not possible on stills. Why would that exist for video, but not for stills? <smh>

My new z8 is affected. Using the FTZ2 adapter, the flanges can be inserted, but when turned to lock something catches and prevents full rotation. I can finagle it to get it to engage. I will send it back (ugh). There is a problem with the shipping label though. In the "product: Please choose" dropdown box, the z8 is not listed. Since the FTZ is now connected, and I am using F mount lenses for now, I am going to await Nikon addressing this, fearing that if I write in "z8" on the label or choose another model delays in proper routing may happen.

Thanks...is it possible to change ONLY the EVF to monochrome while the lcd still shows color?

Thanks, Shun, for the Ricci link. For me there is quite the learning curve from my d810. I am searching, but cannot find the setting to turn the EVF to B&W while shooting color. Ideally, the EVF in B&W while the LCD remains in color...is that possible. John

I had one a while back, so I can't try on it now, but I think I remember that there was a little button or ridge on the shooter side that you'd push in and slightly lift.

Li-On 20 Thanks

Ahh, ok, apples and oranges for the shots remaining display. The 15 is 1900mAh 14WH while the 15c is 2200mAh and 16WH, so the en-el15 would likely run down sooner. To measure battery consumption it's either the icon on the display or going into the menu to check on battery info and the percentage, correct? If there a way to change the battery icon on the display to a % readout? I have both cameras, the d810 and the Z8, set to RAW (only) at this time.

To measure battery consumption it's either the icon on the display or going into the menu to check on battery info and the percentage, correct? If there a way to change the battery icon on the display to a % readout? I have both cameras, the d810 and the Z8, set to RAW (only) at this time.

Finally FedEx delivered it after 6pm. Battery was not charged, so I charged it. I only compared the remaining frames number in the display. With both the EN-EL15c and the EN-EL15 fully charged the remaining frames in the display were the same. They were both "4.3k" set at RAW (only) and on a Delkin black 150gb card. It's possible I am reading this incorrectly, but I am looking at the same remaining shots space as on my D810, and they read the same despite the battery. I suppose the older battery may run down faster? First impressions, just handling it are positive. It has nice heft and fits my hand very similarly to the d810, and that's a good thing. I like the traditional Nikon feel, but, to me, the z6 and z7 just felt too small. It is very nicely finished and has a sleekness to it.

My d810 uses the EN-EL15 original, so I have the original OEM as well as a third party Bower, that is dying. My main concern was could I use my original Nikon EN-EL15 as a backup just in case. the camera is supposed to come today. I will put in a fully charged OEM Nikon En-El15 and see what the display shows compared to the new En-EL15c...and report Because many times I am not actually looking at the VF or LCD, I am literally shooting from the hip or the chest hoping to catch what I see, then composing in post. Using a zone focusing technique would help avoid focusing on something I don't want to.

Understand...As I research it more, the 105 Z seems to be the one and I'll continue with my 20/2.8. It is the size of the 26 that appealed, but not at the cost of away from center IQ Thanks. The Z is coming tomorrow.

Just an update. I received notice from B&H that my Z8 shipped!!! woo hoo; it will be here 5/30. I bought and received theDelkin Devices 150GB BLACK CFexpress Type B Memory Card along with a 14tb external hard drive, as my backup drives were getting tight...OWC Mercury Elite Pro As would happen the format button on my d810, the one invaded by chocolate icing, has started working again. The d810, as was my old d700, was built like a tank and the chocolate episode was transient. Thanks for all the advice. Already thinking about what lens(es) to maybe get for Christmas with my eye on the 26( to replace[?] my much loved 20/2.8/AiS ) or the 105 micro. The 105 would do double duty replacing my venerable 55/3.5/AiS and my 85/1.8/D. That 55 has been a great performer and would not be traded, but the 85 lacking AF compatibility would not be very useful for me at all. The 105 would do what the 85 does and more. Two concerns re the 26: Would I miss the extra wide coverage of the 20 ( think I might) and, can the 26 be set at F8 and turn off AF? I use my 20 for interiors, but also street where I just put it on F8 or 11, set my focus distance for about 5,6 feet and I get a very wide latitude for DOF. That works great for quick shots. AF would be a hindrance as shooting from the hip or chest might focus on something that would ruin what I was trying to get. Example, in the attached shot, I shot it from pocket level, spur of the moment crossing the street. If it was AF it might have focused on the far buildings, and missed the shot. I'm sure AF can be turned off, but as I write this it sounds like I am talking myself out of the 26. Thanks again.

I came across this in the Q&A section at B&H The main difference between the Delkin Devices 75GB BLACK CFexpress Type B Memory Card BH #DEDCFXBBLK75 and the Delkin Devices 128GB POWER CFexpress Type B Memory Card BH #DECFE128GB is the firmware, speed, and the size of the card. 75GB BLACK CFexpress Type B Memory Card from Delkin Devices features a storage capacity of 75GB and is designed for professional photographers, videographers, and high-end cinematic hosts. It is well-suited for raw and continuous-burst photography, as well as 8K, 6K, and 4K video at high bitrates and frame rates. Thanks to a PCIe 3.0 interface, you'll be able to achieve maximum read speeds of up to 1725 MB/s and minimum write speeds of at least 1240 MB/s. Whereas, the the 128GB POWER CFexpress Type B Memory Card from Delkin Devices provides read speeds of up to 1730 MB/s and write speeds of up to 1540 MB/s, making it suitable for professional photographers and videographers. Designed to excel in high-end cinematic hosts, this card can capture 5.9K, DCI 4K, and Full HD video at standard and high frame rates of up to 180 fps, plus continuous shooting raw bursts of up to 200 still images. and Good day! They are very different, built with different firmware, so they have different speeds and capacities. the 75GB has a sustained write speed of about 1240MB/s, the 128GB has a sustained write speed of about 1710MB/s. Both are fully compatible with all CFexpress Type B hosts, but the 75GB will fill up very quickly when used for high resolution video. Thank you! Answered by Representative May 9, 2022 Looks like either would be fine for my purposes?

@ShunCheung I looked at the cards you mention. The 75gb Delkin Black at 119 caught my eye. Are there any speed issues with these with lower capacities? I have seen some reports/reviews of the sanDisk, I think, that said the 64 was much slower than the 128 and because of that it was not recommended? Does that apply to the delkin Black? @joseph_smith3 thanks Joseph for that info, yes it is useful. I usually shoot single, though sometimes a slow burst of 3 or 4. I am shooting people, often street portraits. I shoot a lot of Mardi Gras stuff and the subjects will stop and pose, so 30-120 shots a second is just not necessary. agree, and to accomplish that I am pretty sure 128 would accomplish that, and likely the 75 also