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dpbours

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Posts posted by dpbours

    What's your favorite City-scape/Architectural film?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>It also depends on whether you develop the film to scan and post process digitally, or whether you print your photos the analog way.<br>

    I use T-Max and Delta (both 100 and 400) for urbanscapes.<br>

    If i'm not sure if it will all be urban on the photos, but maybe also some close-ups I use Agfa APX and Tri-X film, since they are a bit wider in use and more forgiving in developing.</p>

    <p>If I would print the photos the analog way, I'd probably use Rodinal. But most of my negatives are scanned and then printed digitally. I then use Amoloco AM74, since it keeps the negative a bit flat - say 'linear contrast' in photoshop. The Rodinal and other developers I use are stronger in contrast, good for printing analog, but a bit too contrasty for scanning and digital printing.</p>

    <p> </p>

    Accident!

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Well, I once had it during a barbeque... Do you know how you hit the top of a new bottle of tomato ketchup so it opens easier? .... I once did that and the bottom blew out as well, all over me and the people sitting next to me ....<br>

    Not the most elegant thing to do during a barbeque. I did send a picture to Heinz, or whichever company it was, and 2 days later I got a big box of goodies of the company and an apology. That was quite nice!</p>

    <p>Cheers, Dennis</p>

    Accident!

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>It has nothing to do with the fixer, but you got something right by complete accident!</p>

    <p>Some trick you find on the internet:</p>

    <h1 >How to Blow the Bottom out of a Bottle</h1>

    <p>Blow the bottom ring of a glass beer bottle out, without breaking the rest of the bottle. This one takes some practice to get right, but the end result is pretty cool. By just using your hand, and some water, you can make the bottom of a beer bottle blow out, in a perfect circle without breaking the rest of the bottle.</p>

     

    <ol>

    <li>Take the empty beer bottle and fill it with water until the water halfway up the neck of the bottle.</li>

    <li>Place your hand around the neck of the bottle, so that your hand is flush to the top. So your hand and the bottle are almost flat at the top.</li>

    <li>With your other hand OPEN, smack the top of the bottle/hand combination. You need to do it pretty hard. DO NOT do this step over anything important, go find a nice grassy spot.</li>

    <li>If done correctly, the bottom of the bottle will fall to the ground without breaking the rest of the bottle.</li>

    </ol>

    <p>You managed to do this trick without wanting to do it hahaha :-).<br>

    Good luck with your foot!</p>

    Light leak in camera or during development?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Yep, like that. But they come in all shapes and sizes these days. Even looking like normal light bulbs.<br>

    Then again, half an hour of after-glowing sounds a bit excessive to me. That is also what I said to the photographer telling me the story of his negatives being impacted by it. But he did tests with it and did not have any issues when developing his negatives half an hour later. As a safety margin, he did not use the fluorescent light an hour before starting developing.<br /> <br /> I was reading about 'fluorescence' in general. <em>"Sometimes the absorbed photon is in the UV range, and the emitted light is in the visible range, but this depends on the characteristics of the particluar fluorescent substance...."</em> <br /> <em></em> <br /> <em>Could it also be the other way around?</em> <br /> Could a fluorescent light absorb normal light and emit UV? We then don't see it, but it impacts the film if strong enough. UV light is as such used in some lithography techniques...</p><div>00UV2R-173043684.jpg.f561daa9ea29e64ea09e67e77d99ca05.jpg</div>

    Light leak in camera or during development?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>As it seems, I started some discussion on the use and impact of fluorescent lights in your darkroom.</p>

    <p>I did not find that much information of it on the internet, but I've heard it from two photographers. One even saw an impact of his fluorescent lights up to half an hour after switching it off. I've not had the issue myself, since I do not have fuorescent lights in my darkroom.<br>

    The same discussion could be with respect to energy saving lights! Here in the Netherlands they are called SL lights. They basically use the same principle I guess as a fluorescent light.</p>

    Bangkok - best place to buy and develop 120 rolfilm

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Well, the subject line says it all! Where could I buy rolfilm and get it developed in Bangkok?</p>

    <p>Are there places where I could rent a decent film scanner? I'll be there for a year, so I need a reliable place with whom I can get a good professional relationship.</p>

    <p>Any other decent points for contacting about photography in Bangkok? (I already know about the foreign correspondents club).</p>

    <p>Thanks! Dennis</p>

    Jobo Autolab 800 ERROR "Chem distr faulty"

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    <p>Since a few weeks, I get the error message that the chemical distribution of my Autolab 800 is faulty.<br>

    I can ignore the message and continue to develop film. No problem there. But the waste water of the developer is not separated anymore - it is flushed out with the normal waste water. The stop and fixer are still separated in waste tanks.</p>

    <p>Well, I do like the environment and would like to repair the chemical distribution valve so it also separates the developer again. <strong>Does anyone have a repair manual or technical drawings of the machine?!</strong></p>

    <p>I do have a second ATL 800 for spare parts. I just need to know where to find the parts in the machine and the sequence of taking it apart. And even more importantly, putting it back together....</p>

    <p>Thanks! Dennis</p>

    Light leak in camera or during development?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>When I read your post and did not see your photos, I was considering that perhaps you had fluorescent lights that you did not turn off hours before - they keep a slight radiation in the powder that will influence your film when putting them in the reels. to the eye it would be dark, but the film is affected by it.<br>

    Seeing the actual spots, I also have the feeling that it must be something in the drum, or something that was already on the film before loading it... No clue what it could be...</p>

     

    Is there still a place for film now and in the future?

    in Wedding & Event

    Posted

    <p>I'm not even going into the discussion of the feeling of silver gelatin print. But shooting with a D700, I went back to 35mm and my medium format more and more.<br>

    Simple reason; The D700 is giving wonderful photos, but it does not challenge me anymore to hunt for that one shot. You can take thousands, so why be critical. Also composition-wise, the speed and ease of shooting with a D700 makes that I was lacking more and more the creative challenge. <br>

    So I'm now shooting 35mm F5, digital D700 and MF Mamiya C330f. A great combination and investment in film is very reasonable these days as well.</p>

     

    Help me decide on a new computer for CS4

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>Whether or not you will need > 4 Gb of RAM memory also depends on whether or not you'll be scanning or printing large formats.</p>

    <p>With > 4 Gb I can scan batches of 6 medium format negatives towards tiff at 9600 without any problems. Same accounts if you would print batches of A3+ photos. You can set software that it is making less use of RAM, but it will be slower then.</p>

    Help me decide on a new computer for CS4

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>Since I need to be mobile, I went for a Lenovo T500.<br>

    - T9600 processor, currently one of the fastest laptop processors;<br>

    - Screen 15.4", WSXGA+ (1680x1050, 129dpi, 200+ nit);<br>

    - Two internal video cards (!), one for the tough graphics works, one when on the road and needing to give presentations - saves energy to use a lower grade graphics card when you don't need the power of the good one...<br>

    - 8 Gb RAM, 320 Gb HD, Draft N wireless to connect to my file server etc.<br>

    And very important; 6.5 hours on one battery and the option to use 2 batteries.<br>

    http://shop.lenovo.com/ISS_Static/merchandising/US/PDFs/t400_and_t500_datasheet.pdf</p>

    <p>And still way cheaper than a MAC, though they are superior once you start buying all you other equipment mac-compatible. Then again, I don't have a goldmine in my backyard ;-)</p>

    Choosing films

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>I'm going for Tri-X 400 and Delta 400 for 35mm and 120 rollfilm. For me, it's hard to screw up either one of them when it comes to exposure. I'm using an automatic rotation machine for development - Autolab 800, so after some testing messing up the development is quite hard for me.</p>

    <p>And all purpose 35mm for me would be AGFA APX100. Both APX100 and Tri-X 400 are very nice for portraits. The Delta 400 I use more for cityscapes and landscapes, because it gives such a nice depth in darker parts.</p>

    <p>I now mainly develop with Amaloco AM74, but mainly because I got 40 litres of it and it works for me. But experimenting with various developers is a world in itself. At current, I rather explore the photography. The AM74 gives a nice broad range in my BW shots. The curve can always be adjusted later on after scanning - some die-hard developing nutters now get really upset...<br>

    (Next to the developing of the film, my darkroom is completely digital - Minolta Elite II 35mm scanner, Epson V700 scanner for medium format and Epson 2880 for printing...)</p>

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