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joshuamck

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Posts posted by joshuamck

    The next step...

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <p>The first step is to identify what you currently can't shoot that you want to shoot.<br /> Do you want to shoot things further away, then get the 55-200mm?<br /> Do you want to shoot in low light? Get a flash (SB600, SB800, SB900) or a faster lens (35mm f/1.8 or 50mm f/1.8 are both excellent, use your zoom to work out which is a more pleasing focal length for your shooting tastes).<br>

    Do you want to shoot things that are further away in low light? Look at the 70-200mm nikkor / sigma or the 50-150 sigma, or the 80-200mm nikkor (all f/2.8 lenses).</p>

    Help with D90 Exposure Lock Setting

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>'most effective when used with center-weighted or spot metering"<br>

    If I had to guess, it would be due to the indeterminate nature of matrix metering. A snowy scene will be recognised as such by MM. Using exposure compensation on an exposure that has been calculated via an algorithm is more difficult for the photographer to understand / get right compared to the same with spot / CW metering.</p>

    Hand Straps

    in Accessories

    Posted

    <p>Thanks Gerry. Something I forgot to mention is that I'm in Australia. Shipping costs can make items from USA to be a bit prohibitive. The minimum shipping cost on that strap from B&H is $41 (more than twice the cost of the item).</p>

    Hand Straps

    in Accessories

    Posted

    <p>A hand strap is something I've wanted for a while. I shoot with a D90, mostly at nightclubs and travel photography. I couldn't find many recent recommendations for hand straps in the search.<br>

    I'm tossing up options between fleabay specials or ordering something brand name. Is there much difference in the $10 ebay option versus something from a reputable brand?<br>

    I've just ordered a BlackRapid R-Strap. Is this likely to interfere with a hand strap's connection?<br>

    Sometimes I use the MBD80 battery grip (I find the camera feels more stable with it on, and I don't like contorting for portrait shots). Is a hand grip likely to impact my use of the grip?</p>

    Philip Greenspun's Canon recommendation?

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <p>I'll reframe the question a little to make it less about N vs C.<br>

    As a beginning photographer, what considerations would determine your choice of camera brand and model? Making some of these questions into a pro-forma might help make some of the repeated discussions of equipment (body / lens) choices a little more structured.<br>

    Several considerations that are regularly brought up follow:<br>

    1. What do your friends and colleagues use to shoot? This is helpful if you learn best by being shown rather than reading.<br>

    2. What do you hope to take photos of?<br>

    3. What is your budget? How flexible is that number?<br>

    4. What is your level of experience with photography? How much effort are you willing to put in to increase your knowledge?<br>

    5. What are you currently not able to achieve with your current setup (if any)? Post samples photos where they help illustrate your point.<br>

    <strong>What are some other questions of that ilk?</strong></p>

    Debunking ETTR

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>I'm not versed on the theory, but there seems to be a few inconsistencies in your logic:<br>

    <em>"... leading to more shadow detail and less shadow noise. This effect is carried throughout the dynamic range, of course, but is most pronounced in the shadows where the least amount of information is recorded."</em><br>

    You just shot a flat evenly lit object to test a theory that applies most when there is shadows.<br>

    <em>"... and that additional post-processing is required" </em>and <em>"With the following exceptions, I processed the two pictures identically in Adobe Camera Raw. ... one frame I processed with -0.45 exposure and the other -1.45 exposure."</em><br>

    So your additional processing was one slider set to -1. That doesn't seem like much aditional processing.<br>

    Your other point rephrased is "don't miss a shot due to overly complex techniques". I agree on this point.</p>

    Canon Rebel series or Nikon D 3000/5000

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <p>I'm going to present a somewhat different view. Those that know cameras are able to make assessments about what lenses to buy to meet their needs. Those new to SLR photography often don't know the difference between focal length and aperture. I'd suggest SLR amateurs to not spend a fortune on lenses to start with - until their able to work out what limitations they are seeing from the kit lens. (A kit lens is a lens that is often sold as a package with a camera, often an 18-55mm zoom lens or similar).</p>

    <p>In my opinion it will probably take a year or so (depending on how often you shoot) to work out where your camera system is limiting your. This will be based on your shooting style. Spend less now and save the rest to buy upgrades.</p>

    <p>As your camera is an electronic piece of equipment, it is going to be obselete by the time you get used to shooting with it if you don't use it often. Don't spend mega bucks on this piece of equipment.</p>

    <p><strong>My recommendation for a beginner Nikon system would be any of the D5000, D60, D40. (perhaps a second hand D80 even?) with a kit lens and perhaps a 35mm f/1.8 lens. These lenses are suitable for learning and won't break the budget ($100 - $200). </strong>I don't know the Canon equivalents well enough to make a recommendation.</p>

    <p>The upgrade path from there depends on what your find yourself shooting. A 55-200mm lens adds range (shooting things further away), a 18-200mm lens similarly adds range and the convenience of a single lens (suitable for travel), but weighs more. A cheap SB400 flash adds better light in a small portable package when it's needed, while an SB600 or 800 adds much more light and features at the expense of weight and price.</p>

    <p>My starter was a D90 + 18-200mm. I often found myself wishing for something lighter in the early days, and I wish someone had given me the above advice. I added a 50mm f/1.8 to take nightlife photography, but found that this focal length was wrong for the pictures that I wanted. I added the 35mm f/1.8 to get closer to my ideal range for this purpose. I've also added other lenses for other purposes on the basis of identifying a limitation in what I wanted to be able to photograph.</p>

    <p>Another point in your decision making (Canon vs Nikon vs other) might be to talk to your friends and find out what they shoot with. They're probably going to be the person that you turn to most to borrow ideas, inspiration and equipment. Being able to call on a friend when you've forgotten to charge your camera's battery before a kid's birthday party or some other big night is invaluable.</p>

    I need small cheap hard drive to back up images. My laptop is dying....

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>2000 pics x 13MB (Canon 40D which OP states in another post he is using) = approx 25GB<br /> When it comes to hard drives buying only what you need now saves money in the long run. I prefer Seagate Freeagent Go range over the WD range. They look sexy and use mini usb (which I have many cables for) compared to the newer micro usb (which I don't). The 320 GB should set you back approx $65 CAD according to shopbot. By the time that you fill it the $55 you saved will buy the 1TB drive above. Anything smaller is probably end of life at a guess, though you might be able to find retailers getting rid of smaller drives for even cheaper.</p>

    release form and handing photos over to club owner...(UK)

    in Wedding & Event

    Posted

    <p>While as noted above, private venues have the right to impose entry conditions, it sounds like your friend has possibly entered into a contract to hire the venue. If that contract does not include the restrictions on photography that you were later advised of, they may not be valid (unless the contract contained provisions about entry conditions).<br>

    Regardless of right or not, the proprietors have some reason for either not wanting to have pictures taken in their venue, or for vetting the pictures that are taken. It may be best to try and determine this reason and come to some agreement that best meets their needs. Coming from the angle that you may consider future bookings on the basis of how the photo issue is handled may help?</p>

    Rain Covers for DSLR

    in Casual Photo Conversations

    What do users think of D90?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>Having bought mine about a year ago as my first ever SLR, I'm loving it. I take it just about everywhere with me. You may want to consider the 35mm f1.8 lens to go with it - it's fairly cheap, and a more natural length for a walk around lens than the 50mm lens is. You also have 50mm covered by your choice of the 55-200mm (close enough to covered at least). The only reason you wouldn't use that lens for the 55mm length shots is if you need a wider aperture to a) let more light in when it is too dark, or b) give you a narrower depth of field so that the background is even creamier (see bokeh).</p>

    <p>Budget flash: depends how budget you want to go, but your options really come down to SB400 (120 USD) / SB600 (215 USD)*. I recently picked up an SB800 secondhand for a steal to u/g my 400 and don't think I'd want to go back to the 400 anytime soon. If I was doing it again with my current knowledge, wouldn't bother with the 400 in the first place. It's light, but the ability to get the flash off the camera as well as the ability to point the flash up to bounce for portrait orientation make the SB600 the far better choice.</p>

    <p>*amazon prices - may not be representative of real world cheapest prices.</p>

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