joshuamck

<p>The Lowepro Fastpack series have fairly comfortable waist straps (for me - a 5'11, 200lb guy), and sound like they'd probably fit all your gear nicely. A comparable bag that I've been considering trying is the Kata 467. Both fit laptops in a section against your back and have 2 sections one for camera stuff, and one for other stuff.</p>

<p>1. Read The DAM Book by Peter Krogh</p>

<p>Further to Matt and Howard's points there is an old saying, "RAID is not backup" (google that phrase). Having a redundant copy of your photos does not protect you against such things as: accidental deletion, theft, fire, damage, data corruption, ...</p>

<p>Beware the temptation to spend heaps on stuff right away. Unless the store is giving you a large discount for buying more lenses than you need right now, it may be better to just get the basics (D40 with 18-55) before splashing out on extra lenses. It won't take you long to work out where you're lacking most. It looks like the deal on the blacks photo website is for the non VR version of the 18-55mm lens - see if you can pay the difference to get the VR version (maybe $20 or $30?).<br>

If you find that you're taking good compositions with the kit lens, but can't quite get enough light in, the 35mm f/1.8 or the 50mm f/1.8 lenses are worth buying (depending on the length that you use most). Both are fairly cheap.<br>

If you find that you can't get close enough to the action, the 55-200mm or one of the other options listed above is your next step. The f number of the lens will tell you how much light the lens will let in (smaller number = more light = more $$$).<br>

18-55mm and 55-200mm lenses are always available on eBay from people that are upgrading. Perhaps it might be worth looking here to save money.</p>

<p>The viewfinder cover prevents light leaking into the camera when it is not against your eye such as when taking a shot on a tripod. This light leak can affect the metering and the light in the final shot.<br>

The part number that you are looking for is a Nikon DK5 and can be found via a google search or via your favourite online retailer.</p>

<p>If you have a reason to group a bunch of photos, you might find that you can think of a name for that <em>collection</em> of images. Perhaps using a collection that you name might be best.</p>

<p>As far as I know, you LR will ignore the any JPGs in the same folder as your RAW files if you set it to convert to DNG mode. You'll have to import the JPGs separately. It's a good idea to manually copy your card to an ingestion directory before running the LR import procedure - that way you can check the results of the import against the files that you copied. A question that you should ask yourself is whether the JPGs are really necessary if you have the RAWs imported already.<br /> Windows 7 doesn't have native RAW support - I'm running it on several boxes at the moment.<br /> I just found http://www.fastpictureviewer.com/codecs/ which was released a couple of days ago. It's Beta software, but works in Windows 7 64 bit for thumbnails and the standard image viewer app. I tried viewing both D90 NEF files and DNG files and all worked fine. Apparently this piece of software does a bunch of different RAW formats from Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Sony, Leica, ...<br>

Sorry about the double post, software wouldn't save my edits.</p>

<p>Afaik, you can't do the LR convert to DNG with JPGs in the same folder as your RAW files. You have to do it separately. You might find it a good idea to manually copy your card to an ingestion directory before running the LR import procedure - that way you can check the results of the import against the files that you copied. A question that you should ask yourself is whether the JPGs are really necessary if you have the RAWs imported already.<br>

Windows 7 doesn't have native RAW support - running it on several boxes atm.<br /> I just found http://www.fastpictureviewer.com/codecs/ which was released a couple of days ago. It's Beta software, but works in Windows 7 64 bit for thumbnails and the standard image viewer app. I tried viewing both D90 NEF files and DNG files and all worked fine.<br /> Apparently this piece of software does a bunch of different RAW formats from Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Sony, Leica, ...</p>

<p>A problem with "Dipesh people seem to remember because of Depeche mode" is that people may remember the pronunciation, but not the spelling.<br /> d-po.ca is a poor choice, as there is already a dpo.ca and it's too similar.<br /> Why not go with dpo-photo .ca or .com. Pronouncing it as "Dee Pee Oh Dash Photo Dot Com" rolls of the tongue well, quite a bit better than d-po would at least (which when pronounced would be ambiguous as to whether you meant deepo, depo, or some other spelling.)<br>

On the .ca vs .com note - whatever you go for comes down to whether you feel that being Canadian is an important part of your cultural identity as it applies to your branding. If you can find a domain that you can get as both a .ca and a .com, you have the best of both worlds - just buy both and redirect the .com to the .ca or the other way.</p>

<p>Joe, the RAW+Jpg setting does not create a RAW file with a Thumbnail. It creates a RAW file and a separate JPG file. If you don't see the JPG files perhaps you did not copy them when you imported.</p>

<p>A codec allows the operating system to natively render the RAW files. There are several codecs by Ardfry that shows thumbs for DNG, CR2, and NEF. (Nikon's NEF Codec doesn't come in a 64bit version, Ardfry's does). See http://www.ardfry.com/<br>

Another alternative is to offload the images and view thumbs only in LR. I've heard this is possible, don't know off the top of my head how to do it. Your LR license likely allows installation on multiple computers (as long as both are not in use simultaneously), so another option might be to move your catalog file to the external hard drive and install LR on both machines<br>

Disclaimer: You should probably think about proper backup procedures if you do this - moving the catalog to the external drive is possibly not compatible with these procedures. Peter Krogh's The DAM Book is well worth a read.</p>

<p>See http://www.artslaw.com.au/legalinformation/StreetPhotographersRights.asp and http://www.4020.net/words/photorights.php for a general view on Aussie photog rights.<br>

The Botanic Gdns site is http://www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au/welcome_to_bgt/royal_botanic_gardens/your_visit/planning_your_visit/regulations<br>

I know this doesn't answer your questions fully, but I hope it helps.</p>

<p>It might be helpful to do a back calculation of your lenses to FX->DX (i.e. how the lenses will shoot on the d700 when compared to what you're used to seeing on the D90). I realise that this is often expressed the other way (35mm equivalent), but you're moving from a crop sensor to 35mm equivalent, so it pays to look at it the opposite direction from usual. The right hand numbers are the focal lengths that you can set your D90 to to judge which focal lengths will be covered on the d90.</p>

<ul>

<li>AF-S 12-24mm = 8-12mm with vignettes (via glen above), and 12-16mm DX equivalent</li>

<li>AF-S 24-70mm = 16-47mm DX equivalent </li>

<li>AF-S 70-200mm VR = 47-133mm DX equivalent </li>

<li>AF-S 50mm = 33mm DX equivalent</li>

<li>14-24mm = 9-16mm DX equivalent</li>

</ul>

<p>So you can see from above, if you stick the 70-200mm on the D700, you lose 65mm from the long end. So this lens goes on the D90 unless you really need something in between 50mm and 70mm DX = 75mm and 112.5mm (35mm equiv)<br>

The 24-70 on the D700 covers much the same as the 17-55 did on your D90, so leave it on the D700 for most of the time.<br>

You don't really gain anything by putting the 12-24mm DX lens on the D700 instead of the d90 due to the vignetting. On the D90 you get 18-36mm, on the D700 you get 18-24mm. If you get the 14-24mm, you get an extra 4mm on the wide end of the D700 or an equivalent of what a 9-16mm lens would look like on your D90.<br>

So numbers alone would agree with what Mizuho just said.<br>

I hope this makes sense.</p>

<p>Just to clarify a point that Camera Fan made. AF-S when referring to lenses is as Andrew described. There is an AF-S setting on the body that is to do with whether the camera focuses in once, or continuously.</p>

<p>http://www.zazzle.com/custom/businesscards</p>

<p>Brand yourself. If you've got business cards, they probably cost more than the cost of purchasing a domain. For about the price of 2 or 3 coffees and maybe an hours work, you can have either www.yourname.com or photos.yourname.com point to your smugmug account.<br>

If you want email at that domain, I highly recommend "Google Apps for Your Domain". Google onsells domains from either eNom or GoDaddy which you may select when you're signing up. ENom don't do direct domain sales, so GoDaddy may be the best choice here if you have other domains that you want to point to the same site. Google Apps also comes with google sites if you want to do a web site in addition to the smugmug gallery site.</p>

<p>I've been looking at this also. It's a bit of a PITA as you can't expect your website visitors to have to make a change in order to see your pictures at their best. From my reading of the issue, it seems that if you export an ICC v2 profile with a JPG, apparently the shot will look ok. I'm not yet sure how to do this in LR</p>

<p>The Golden Pavillion is an obvious necessity.<br>

Iwatayama monkey park if you're into animal photography - you'll get right up close to the monkeys. A nice walk up a hill with some good views of the city.<br>

Pontoncho is an awesome little lane where you'll get great photos in the evenings.<br>

Philosophers walk is a walk along this little canal that is quite relaxing.<br>

There was an excellent bamboo forest that we went through when I was there last year, but I forget what it was called / where it is. Google it.</p>

<p>Firefox 3.5 has broken implementation of ICC color profiles. Lightroom exports with an ICC v4 profile. Firefox expects a v2 profile. I ran into this problem with Flickr yesterday, and have been searching for a solution, but have yet to find a good one.</p>