karl_price
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Posts posted by karl_price
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<p>If you're looking to convert it to AI, you might take a look here:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.pacificrimcamera.com/catalog/ch73.htm">http://www.pacificrimcamera.com/catalog/ch73.htm</a></p>
<p>Really good guys to deal with.</p>
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<p>If you're interested in something more about the creative process instead of technique, the podcasts by Brooks Jensen over at Lenswork Magazine are very good.</p>
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<p>My best KEH deal to date was a fully functional N90s body in ugly condition with a sticky back for $1.79. (That's not a misprint. $1.79!)<br />Denatured alcohol will remove the tacky stuff without harming the back. It will also remove those little icons for all of the shooting "modes" printed on the back. I never referenced them so I don't miss them. The alcohol leaves you with a smooth clean back. Not sure if I'm going to find something to recover it for protection and grip or not.</p>
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<p>Funny thing. Photography is a visual medium. In the examples cited the maybe an image would have been more familiar than a name?</p>
<p>Would you rather your photographs be remembered? Or your name?</p>
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<p>If the current photographer has been able to handle a request for prints, I assume that means they're filed by customer. Have you thought of reaching out to the customers and offering the negatives to them? Maybe an advertisement in an area paper? I'd think there may be some interest as to family history and people certainly have the ability to do their own scanning/printing.</p>
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<p>How about Freeze frame and Centerfold by the J Geils Band?</p>
<p>By the way Josh, the way to clear an ear worm(song stuck in your head) is to replace it by singing 99 Luft Balloons by Nena (to yourself please). It's weird but it works and doesn't leave a residue.</p>
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<p>When you think about what fixer actually does, you'll realize why turning the lights on before fixing is a bad idea. The fixing step removes the undeveloped and <strong>unexposed yet still light sensitive</strong> silver crystals in the film. It's essentially unexposed film. Bring it into the light before fixing and now those crystals will convert to silver and the result will be fog.<br>
The stop bath will stop developement of previously exposed parts of the film but has no effect on the light sensitivity of those areas not yet exposed.</p>
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<p>Another way to look at critiques from people with no portfolio.</p>
<p>Often the end result of producing a photograph is to show it to someone who couldn't possibly have a portfolio. Yup! I'm referring to non photographers. The feedback of the general public at some point becomes something you're going to want to add to your assessment of one of your images. If the only valid feedback is from someone with a portfolio(i.e a photographer) then your photography becomes a closed little circle and not the broad method of communication it really is.</p>
<p>With any sort of feedback or critique, you have to weigh ALL of it and then you decide if it makes sense and if it helps realize your expression.</p>
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<p>I'll put in another plug for the Nikon FM. The LED meter helps in low light and if you lose the batteries, you still get to keep your camera. The Olympus OM1 is compact, quiet and just plain fits the hand. Minolta SRT 101 was my first real SLR and the match needle metering was hard to beat along with the depth of field preview.</p>
<p>They're not all "just light tight boxes". If a camera has controls that readily come to hand (for you) and gives the information most essential (for you) allowing a transparent interface to express or capture whats most important (for you) then you hold in your hands the best manual 35mm SLR camera(for you). The previous sentence may of course be subjective(for you).</p>
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<p>Steve,<br>
It's still there. <a href="http://www.cameraquest.com/index.htm">http://www.cameraquest.com/index.htm</a><br>
Karl</p>
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As far as exposure goes, the moon can be pretty simple. The moon is made up largely of grey rock. It's lit by the sun. Therefore if you go outside on a nice sunny day and take a meter reading for grey rock in full sunlight, you'll have the exact reading you need for the moon at night.
Cheers,
Karl
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The Bronica S2 and S2A had an issue with the focusing screen and it's location in the body. Essentially the foam it's mounted in compresses and moves the screen a little bit. The distance between the lens and the focus screen and the lens and the film plane are no longer the same. You see perfect focus in the finder, but the focus at the film is slightly off. It's easy enough to reshim the focus screen and correct the problem. Check your shots carefully and see if everything is out of focus or if the plane of focus is other than where you intended it to be.
Secondly, and you know this, the S2 and S2A have a great slamming mirror to compensate for so really good handholding techique or a tripod helps a lot.
Assuming no issues with the lens (cloudy, scratched, damaged), this is where I've seen the most focus issues. The nikkors are good performers.
Google for Bronica focus problems and you'll probably find a step by step to reshim your screen.
Cheers,
Karl
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I almost forgot. You might try Robi's on Gravelly Lake Dr in Lakewood. Give them a call and see if they're still doing 120.
Karl
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If you don't mind crossing the bridge try Pro Photo in Gig Harbor. (photoproimaging.com)
Three day service in Lab for 120/220 Professional film processing, printing and enlarging and Black and white film processing and printing. (Just pulled this off their website.) I've used them for black and white before I had my darkroom and the work was good.
Cheers,
Karl
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The suggestion to check ebay is a good one. The Busch Pressman 4x5 is very popular as it makes a great entry level field camera. It has an advantage over the Graphics in that it has a rotatable back. The rangefinder, etc. aren't really important if your using it as a field camera. The Pressmans also got a boost in value after a magazine article touted their virtues. I'd give you $100.00 right now for it but I'd probably be shorting you a bit.
The 127 ektar is no slouch either.
Cheers,
Karl
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I would ammend E Walkers suggestion to read twelve "unique" words. (Eliminates "Great! Great! Great! Great!,Etc.....)
Bonus points if you can make the code only accept something with a grammatical structure. (Eliminates the trick of using a string of unconnected words. )
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Eric,
Your responses make it sound like your school should drop the idea of a photjournalism class. You simply don't have the budget for it. You've said that film is out of the question and digital is out of the budget. It would be a bad business plan to try to continue a program based on the hope of donation of (not old) equipment. I'm not sure how you can be currently offering the class without having the equipment nailed down in advance.
If you consider D70s and D50s to be old, I don't think you have a realistic assessment of what old is. (I'm currently trying to work my budget to be able to afford a D50 which I consider to be a new camera.)
Good Luck
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"Photo.net's interface is flat, boring and difficult to use. It's not pleasant to look at in any way. The lack of a solid interface design is shocking for a site that's supposedly for creative people. The forum software is a joke, the system for ranking photos is a joke and the overall look and feel is a joke. " - Chris Hughes
Chris, you never gave any concrete suggestions for improvement. With the number of people who have come into this forum saying basically the same things about how bad the design is with no positive suggestions as to what could be improved, I'm not really surprised at the responses that were posted about site design ideas. It wasn't until a later post that you gave any sort of depth to what you thought could use improving.
The people here are intelligent and open to well reasoned criticism and suggestions. Share your ideas and take the challenge of proving their merit.
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B&J
in Large Format
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B&J
in Large Format
Look on the KEH website. They currently have three Calumet C2 6x7 roll film holders under large format back and magazine accessories. Anywhere from $94.00 and up.
Cheers,
Karl
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B&J
in Large Format
Ben,
I think Calumet used to make a roll film back for spring back type 4x5's. I've seen them on ebay from time to time.
I used to have the same camera you have now. It's a great lightweight compact 4x5.
Cheers,
Karl
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Rick Said :"It is, IMO, a judgment call. And it is never, in the end, my call. Editors decide what gets in and what does not. And I know my editors pretty well."
Isn't that a bias? Doesn't that influence what you shoot and how you shoot it?
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Kristijan,
I'm happy to be able to help. You have some nice work and a good eye. If someone wants to participate so much, I'm glad the gift subscription option is available.
Keep shooting!
Cheers,
Karl
Make your own negative to be exposed
in Black & White Practice
Posted
<p>Ron Mowrey would be an excellent source of research for this. He actually wrote a book on handcoating emulsions.<br>
<a href="http://stores.photoformulary.com/-strse-990/%22Photographic-Emulsion-Making,-Coating/Detail.bok">http://stores.photoformulary.com/-strse-990/%22Photographic-Emulsion-Making,-Coating/Detail.bok</a><br>
<a href="