anuragagnihotri

<p>Wouter: <br>

M43 doesn't have any satisfactory solution either. <br>

Their 40-150 is like buying a 55-200 or something. <br>

They have a 2.8 zoom, but it is a stop slower than what i need if i were to buy a Micro Four Third zoom, at this cost.</p>

<p>Lannie, i'm past that mile :)<br>

Can't buy zooms now, don't have money for them. <br>

24-70: I don't need it, 35 will do for me, very sure<br>

70-200: Tempting, but heavy and intrusive for my kind of work...i badly needed the 2.8, which is why i bought the 180, a smaller lens.</p>

Edit: "One area where I could do with a ZOOM, perhaps, is a 70-200 zoom..."

Hi,

I have a D800E with a 35/1.4, a 50/1.8 and a 180/2.8. I have some money to spend and I was wondering

If it should get a 70-200/4 or a back up body?

Like most of you, and maybe more so, I am extremely hassled at having to change lenses on the go. It just doesn't work for me...I

seem to always have the wrong lens

At the right time :) therefore the need for a back up body.

This could easily be sorted if only I agree to purchase couple of 2.8 zooms, but I love primes and I don't want a heavy set up. One area

where I could do with a prime, perhaps, is a 70-200 zoom...the F4 version looks light and small enough.

However, one thought was to not buy the lens but a body and mount 50 1.8 on it (which becomes 75) so that I will have the short and

long ends (180/2.8) of the zoom...will this work? Because even if I buy the zoom, where will I mount it, D800 being the only camera I

have, and I have other lenses as well.

Any thoughts to sort this out...

Thanks,

Anurag

PS: I have an OMD also, with a 200-600mm lens.

<p>I am looking for a telephoto lens in this range...stumbled upon few impressions of the 55-200 VR and people think that it is very very good. Like photozone has an excellent resolution test for this lens. The performance is said to be even across focal lengths and even the borders are very good. <br>

My question is: How much better the more expensive options: 70-200/4, 70-300 VR will be?<br>

Any of you, who have shot with this lens?<br>

anurag</p>

<p>Jacques, thanks.<br>

One more thing: <br>

Why did you update this point in your write up? Shouldn't the recommended setting be 'focus priority' instead of 'release priority'?<br>

Because, as you said, with FP you will get focussed shots as against RP where the camera will fire irrespective of finding focus...<br>

Thanks for your answers :)</p>

<p>Jacques, <br>

Was reading your article again, found an update:<br>

[<em>Updated 30/1/2013</em>] In the Autofocus custom setting menu, set AF-C priority selection (a1) to Release priority. This will allow the camera to fire with no hesitation regardless whether AF-ON is depressed or released, or whether the subject is in focus.<br>

Here, If you set the AFC on release priority, then doesn't it start behaving like default (focus with shutter button) mode...(camera keeps clicking whether in focus or not)? Also the focus recompose goes for a toss....<br>

Why do you recommend release priority over focus priority?</p>

 

<p>Hi, <br>

Just to complete the loop: <br>

I bought a new 180 AF-D ED. <br>

:)</p>

Hi. Would like to edit the

earlier post...it was

incorrect.

 

Photozone comparison

reveals that the 180

resolves more in the center

and corners as well as you

can see below. Its just the

extreme corners where the

zoom has a marginal lead.

Zoom doesn't have f2.8 so

that's a mute point.

 

Prime:

2.8/3545/2958/2892

4/3649/3079/2943

5.6/3734/31342982

 

Zoom:

4/3616/3046/2977

5.6/3690/3116/3018

Photozone has tested the

new 70-200 f4 on D3X.

What's interesting is that

the 180 f2.8, which was

tested on the same very

camera, outresolves the

newer lens at f5.6,in the

center and equals it at f4.

Border and corners are

better with the new lens,

but not much better.

Pleasant surprise for the

20 year old prime..

Jacques,

Thanks a ton for the

explaination...and the

patience.

<p>Mike,<br>

<em>The reason to decouple the AF (from the shutter release) is to ensure that one (the camera)<strong> is not forced to refocus each time a picture is clicked</strong>. This allows one to focus (using the AF-ON button and then release the button) then recompose the shot while having the focus remain unchanged from the initially chosen subject.</em><br>

But this can be done by half pressing the shutter and locking the focus also...</p>

<p>Jacques, <br>

Why would i change to AFS when shooting normal?<br>

I can keep it to AFC no matter what i'm shooting, stationery or moving objects...right? Because everything moves anyway, if not the subject, then the photographer...so its a good idea to be on AFC anyway with this kind of camera...<br>

<strong>So this is the part i get and agree: </strong><br>

<strong>Decoupling the AF so one doesn't have to refocus each time a picture is clicked. </strong><br>

Sorry, i am trying to understand the damn thing...:)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Robert..<br>

I will perhaps buy the new F4 and wait for the prime update. <br>

Old 180s are available here in India readily. I will try pick up one if really cheap. <br>

Thanks a lot, appreciate. </p>

<p>Jacques, <br>

I understand that AF on decouples the focus from shutter button. So one can do shooting and focussing separately and doesn't need to initiate focus each time the shutter button is pressed. <br>

Well, that much i understood, but beyond this, i couldn't. The settings argument...that one doesn't have to change settings with AF on....isn't that true with normal shooting also..? Maybe there's something i'm missing...? You write, "Notice that you can switch between shooting any of the example scenes above <em>without</em>having to change any focus settings? That’s the beauty of using this technique – no more fumbling with focus settings when you can least afford to!.." But i just can't seem to notice or get it...<br>

Focus recompose: this also is same in both techniques. In normal shooting, you focus lock and recompose. In AF on shooting, you do the same...</p>

 

<p>Hi, <br>

As a new owner of D800E, i was wondering if there is a (mandatory) process of registering your product with Nikon (online)...and i couldn't find how i can become a member of NPS...<br>

regards,</p>

 

<p>I am still not able to get this:<br>

When you use shutter button to AF, you focus and then press the button to take the picture. <br>

When you use AF on button to AF, you focus and then press the shutter button to take the picture. <br>

What's the benefit?</p>

<p>Robert, i have been looking at 180 for some time...now that i have bought a D800, i will have to purchase something in this range...the new 70-200/4 or the 180...right now i can't judge which one, so time will help me perhaps...i do have a 200-600 panasonic on my OMD, so till i decide, i will not left without pictures...</p>

<p>Thanks guys. Some of these tests can be little dis-heartening, especially if you're going to buy the equipment reviewed. <br>

Is there a possibility that at 100%, this is what you get, but when printed and at smaller sizes, the files look sharp...??<br>

This and some other lenses are older designs, so arguably they may not be as good as the newest. Unfortunately, in the prime land, Nikon has been slow in updating their lenses...some of the lenses can't walk with the cameras they make...though i have only read this, don't have first hand experience.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi, <br />I saw this page comparing 180 AFD F2.8 with 70-200 F2.8 VR..<br>

http://dipastro.pd.astro.it/~cosmo/bepi/Photography/Photo%20Tests/180%20vs%2070-200%20SHARPNESS%20TEST/index.htm<br>

<br />If you look at the crops shown, the prime is pathetically soft at 2.8, even in the center...<br />My question is, does it match your experience in the field?<br />The crops show that 180 is sharper than 70-200 at F8...if you look at the photozone review of the prime, it shows that there's not much difference between 2.8 and 5.5....F5.6 being the sharpest aperture...and F8 in fact goes down a bit. <br />regards,<br />anurag </p>

<p>Shun, <br>

I ended up checking if the left is as good as right :)<br>

My feeling is that the center point is the sharpest, followed by right and then the left. Left most point on my camera is not exactly fuzzy or anything, but it is a bit soft compared to the center point. I suppose it is the way it is supposed to be...<br>

Not being fussy about it, don't care much...i think if its only the outer most left sensors, then maybe it is a good idea to stick to D21 or something so that you don't even use them...<br>

I am not even one bit concerned about this though...</p>

<p>Thanks guys, quite clear now<br>

will experiment and see how it goes</p>

<p>Is the D60 a new announcement? Full frame camera?</p>

<p>I am completely un-initiated in this, so pardon me...<br>

what's single row? also i guess you have to pan in a half-circular motion in order to avoid any alignment issues...guess rail/slider will be straight?<br>

why do people use specialized pano gear....what are the advantages?</p>

<p>Hi, <br>

I intend to do some panoramic shots on my tripod which has a normal ball head. <br>

Is it possible to do panos with this set up without buying any specialized pano equipments? <br>

regards,<br>

anurag</p>