anuragagnihotri

<p>Default LR sharpening, R1 A25<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17122054-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="455" /></p>

<p>car in the center, no sharpening:<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17122059-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="455" /></p>

<p>Here's another picture...shot at 1/500 and F8...AF...what do you think...<br>

Full image:<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17122058-md.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Hi, <br>

For really close work, called macro, you need a macro lens. <br>

What about the close up work which doesn't require you to 1:1...like flowers lets say...<br>

Is it better to have macro lens for that, or is it actually better that you don't shoot flowers with a macro lens...?<br>

So lets say, a 60mm macro vs. a 85 or 50...<br>

what's your take?<br>

regards,</p>

 

<p>It will take me some time to do the proper live view testing...will report back...<br>

regards,</p>

<p>Shutter speeds: Maybe 250th of a second is on the lower side for this camera and lens combination. <br>

Focus: I will experiment with live view to check this out...but, how can there be focus error at this distance...2.5 miles and 2.2 miles should be same for the lens, because both are infinity. <br>

Frankly, i bought this lens for shooting people, so it doesn't hurt me. But if there's an anomaly, i should better correct it or at least know about it. </p>

 

<p>Guys, i'm not expecting this to be pixel sharp like, say, a Sigma DP2 Merrill that i have, but there's a day and night difference between far off shots and closer shots....and the lens seems to be optimized for astrophotography according to Nikon. <br>

Haze: Then are you saying a 70-200 II will give similar results in this situation?<br>

Can someone please post an example of how sharp the image should be at infinity with !) this lens 2) any other lens on D800E...what should one expect?</p>

<p>Peter, <br>

This has all the exif info...i uplodaded this to my photo.net portfolio (looks like there's no way to upload images directly from your computer), and this is what you need to know: <br>

xposure Date: 2013:02:21 13:02:37;<br />Copyright: Anurag Agnihotri;<br />Make: NIKON CORPORATION;<br />Model: NIKON D800E;<br />ExposureTime: 1/250 s;<br />FNumber: f/11;<br />ISOSpeedRatings: 1800;<br />ExposureProgram: Aperture priority;<br />ExposureBiasValue: 0/6;<br />MeteringMode: Pattern;<br />Flash: Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode;<br />FocalLength: 180 mm;<br />FocalLengthIn35mmFilm: 180 mm;<br />Software: Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 4.1 (Macintosh)</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17111592-md.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Hi, <br>

Will post the full picture in couple of hours. <br>

regards,</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Here's the crop, untouched:<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17108534-md.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Guys, as of now, i just don't seem to grab a 1:1 crop from LR...the moment i click on crop button, the view goes back to 1/16.....??</p>

<p>i will post a 100% crop (sic) in a while...this could just be my first 100% crop maybe :)<br>

On a serious note: <br>

I was shooting AF. Shutter speeds were about 1/250 to 500 (i have set the auto ISO minimum shutter limit at 1/250, so can't be below it, this was daytime/shade). Aperture was F11 or thereabouts. I was shooting from one side of a huge Himalayan valley and focussed on far off Pine trees on the other side of mountain...so we are talking about a distance of miles here. <br>

So, Hans: yes, pollution/air could be the reason<br>

Ilkka: No live view<br>

JDM: yes, 100% on screen<br>

Clive: I am really interested in this hard stop thing. As i understand, lenses without hard stop go beyond infinity. So how do you know how much to pull back if you're doing MF....</p>

<p>Hi, <br>

I am shooting with a 180/2.8 on a D800E. <br>

Pictures taken from close to moderate distance come out sharp. But shots focussed at infinity, far off trees etc. are soft...Those of you who have experience with this lens...is it how the lens is supposed to behave?<br>

PS: i read on Nikon website that this lens is recommended for astrophotography...but i don't seem to get sharp results at all...am i making any focussing errors?<br>

Not related to the question though, here're the pictures i have shot with my new lens:<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/agnihot/sets/72157633122958507/detail/<br>

regards,</p>

 

<p>Kent, what lenses do you use?<br>

If i go with option 3 = 16-35/35/70-200...i will have to stagger the purchase. <br>

Wouter, Rick...great suggestions...</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Ariel, I am really enjoying the 180. I bought it because i can't carry a 2.8 zoom, i would have been better off with a 135, but that's another story. So yes, i have a use for 180. <br>

Mid range zoom: Not sure about this. 24-70 is too expensive, and heavy also. Same perhaps is true, i don't know, for 16-35 as well. <br>

Dieter: Thanks, i am personally inclined towards all prime option, even if i will buy another (cheaper DX) body in the medium term, just to be able to mount at least 2 lenses together. <br>

How do you guys deal with lens changing business while traveling...?</p>

 

<p><strong>Lens changing nightmare: </strong><br>

My situation is that i am suddenly realizing i won't be able to change lenses beyond a point, without missing shots. Imagine carrying 3 lenses and a body. Difficult. I am inclined towards 35/85/180 combination, but fear that i will miss shots. Zooms, on the other hand are heavy, so first compromise is in terms of aperture (and therefore creative possibilities) and the other is of course the weight one is carrying. In all these combinations the only lens i'm very sure about, which i will definitely add, is a 35/1.4. So i will have 35+180. Rest of the lenses are being considered to deal with the fear, that i will miss shots...</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

For D800<br>

1) Sigma 35 F1.4+Nikon 70-200 F4+Nikon 180 F2.8 (already own this lens)<br>

2) Sigma 35 F1.4+ 50 F1.4+ Nikon 85 1.8+Nikon 180 F2.8<br>

3) Nikon 16-35 F4+Sigma 35 F1.4+Nikon 70-200 F4 + (already own a 180 F2.8)<br>

4) Nikon 18-35 afs+ Sigma 35 F1.4 + Nikon 70-300 + (already own a 180)<br>

Notes: <br>

Expensive items like 3) will have to be gradual purchases<br>

No. 2) is immediately possible. <br>

My pictures are here: <br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/agnihot/<br>

regards,</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Lannie, <br>

The old guy and other close shots of faces were done with a Panasonic LX3, a compact camera that i started photography with. <br>

anurag</p>

<p>Lannie, thanks, which close up portraits you're asking about? The black and white series was shot with a 5DMII and a 135L. <br>

Ilkka, thanks, that's exactly the problem...even you're saying, do this, OR, do this...:)<br>

This is the first picture i made with the 180 prime:<br>

<img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8516/8551289134_9fdefc4af8_c.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Kent, i rarely shoot wildlife, just started to dabble in it. Its a mix of everything. </p>

<p>Eric, i do a mix of everything...i travel a lot and often find myself in locations with a very short window of time...so everything gets shot with what i have on camera at that time...not an ideal situation...<br>

Here're my pictures:<br>

interesting:<br>

http://www.flickriver.com/photos/agnihot/popular-interesting/<br>

recent:<br>

http://www.flickriver.com/photos/agnihot/</p>

<p>Wouter: Yes the weight is an issue, but having at least 2 different focal lengths on call is more important. You're right about 180 though, i fear adding a 70-200 will be sort of 'why did i buy a 180?' sort of thing...</p>

<p>Here's how this will look: <br>

Option One: <br>

D800/35/180<br>

D7100/75<br>

Option Two: <br>

D800/35/180/70-200</p>

<p>Here's a picture i shot with 200-600 lens on my OMD. It is a very good lens for reach, but it starts at 200. <br>

<img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8359/8445648434_18aa08d35d_c.jpg" alt="" /></p>