anuragagnihotri

Shun,

I dont know how many people use tripods on a safari each

and everytime they press the shutter. And if they do, its

because of nature of the gear they carry. You cant handhold

lenses like 600/4, from a weight perspective as well.

Lenses like 100-400, 300/4 and 150-600 are all immensly

hand holdable, and these are the lenses the new 70-300

competes with in the sense they are in the same ball park. A

80-400 is also equally slow light wise.

VR helps the viewfinder stay stable...we all know. It will be

the same with this new lens.

My point is that this new lens if it turns out to be good, can

replace lenses like 100-400 in a pinch, if the V3 h

Can give me a great ISO 400 and good ISO 800.

For the bigger guns like 500/4 and likes, no, this will not do.

Hello peoples,

The way i look at it, the camera makes sense for wildlife

enthusiasts. Not pros, but enthusiasts, because it cant

match FF body + Big Prime combination. Even for pro's, this

can be a second rig.

For wildlife purposes, the 70-300 looks great. 5.6 at 300mm

is decent, dof wise and of course the reach is tremendous.

The other usage is ofcourse the 'moment' shots, whether

street or sports. In this usage, the kit lens will suffice if its

good optically. There is no use looking for large apertures

here and expecting subject isolation pictures from this

system. There are other systems for that.

If Nikon or someone puts a APS sensor with this speed, that camera will be a better general purpose camera but not necessarily a better wildlife camera because you will lose the reach.

Sony has this similar tech in recently announced A6000...its an APSC sensor...

Soon their full frame mirrorless cameras will gain speed as well and in a few years...maybe a couple of years we will have very fast FF mirrorlesssystems also.

But even then, the CX system will retain its uniqueness which comes from a smaller sensor.

Hi

I need suggestions on which of the two is better. I have

decided on these two basis their availability in my city and

the lightest weight for travel without compromising in

quality.

Thanks :)

nde

Thanks JDM.

Shun, photography classes??

Hi Jose,

Comparison is between 70-200 F4 and 85.

Its not 70-200 F2.8.

Hi, thanks...my mistake...should have been more elaborate.

I say perspective not withstanding. Adsuming it had no role to play. I am only talking about

framing.

Also, not far off mountains :) Reasonable distances. A full body framing.

I have a D800 body and i really want to purchase Sigma 85/1.4. I have a 300 f4 afs also. I had

originally planned to buy the 70-200/4 but if possible, i want to avoid it. Recently i played with a

friends 70-200 L and didnt at all feel that i am seeing a dramatic change in framing from 70 to

200. I thought maybe if i buy the 85/1.4 it will do the job as on my cameras crop mode (16mp)

it will be a 135/f2...and i already have a 300mm which cant be too far off from 200 perhaps.

Benefit is that i will be getting a 1.4 lens :)

What do you say?

To get the same framing as a 200mm, how many

steps/distance you have to walk ahead?

Just curious if someone has done this. Is it a big distance?

Regards,

Anurag

:)

Hi Edward,

I wasn't thinking about the head shots at all when i asked the

question. I was thinking about "head and shoulder"/waist up

shots. I guess situation changes a bit then?

Also, If a 24-70 is used on a crop body, then you are

effectively shooting at 105mm...dof apart, the perspective

should then be flattering perhaps, even for head shots.

Hi, i asked this because every review of this lens mentions

that it is great for portraits. I also see many photographers

actually using it for the same.

As someone mentioned it, Ikka?, if framed a bit loosely, it

can be cropped.

Hi guys,

Those of you who don't have a 70-200/2.8 or the F4 version,

how do you do it?

Primes?

Any other zoom?

Walking :)

What?

Thanks.

I shoot FX.

Does a better minimum focussing distance help?

regards,

anurag

Shun you are right. Its stuck on the both side.

In the 5 minute i had it with me before dropping it, i could

only notice that the long ridge moves and there is some

rattle. It didnt give me enough time to notice the connected

tab on the other side.

Shun, ya, its going to Nikon. Do you think it can be repaired

in a meaningful way? I hope its not reached point of no

return...or may be the fix is simple.

I will know soon.

Thanks for your time.

Anurag

Shun, none of these are stuck. Your picture is of the lens

side. The ridge that i wrote about is on the camera side. See

my picture.

James, no.

I will have to send it for service :(

Shun, see this image:

http://www.photo.net/photo/17639499

It is from the manual.

The part that is No. 2 is described as'meter coupling ridge'.

This is where the dent is.

The mechanical lever that you are talking about is this?

Does this move?

Regards,

Anurag

Dropped just the TC on the floor. It was on my lap and i got

up :)

Shun, i faintly remember that the "meter coupling ridge"

(from diagram on accompanying multi lingual leaflet) could

move if i push it with a finger, or maybe it didn't. It doesnt anymore. Thats where the dent is actually.

It was a brand new TC. What luck :)

Hi guys, bit of a problem here.

My new AF-S 300/4 is working fine on my D800E, but the

camera is flashing fEE when mounted with the TC. I have

locked the lens aperture at F32 so that's not a problem.

Camera is autofocussing fine but the metering is not

happening. Neither can i actuate the shutter button.

Upon falling, the 'meter coupling ridge' has bent a bit at one

place, on the camera side of the TC mount. TC slone is

mounting fine on the camera and there is no fEE then, but

when i mount the lens, the error comes back.

Is the TC broken, or i am doing something silly? Is there a

D800 menu item that has to be enabled in order to mount a

TC?

Is the 'meter coupling ridge' on TC ia movable

thing...because its not moving and is fixed.

Please help,

nde

<p>Thanks guys...<br>

:)</p>

<p>Hi, <br>

I can see a little speck in my D800 viewfinder...and as a result i am a little nervous when changing lenses in the field...<br>

Which begs the question...how much do you care about dust getting inside when changing lenses...? Is the anti-dust tech (sensor shake??) effective enough so that you can freely change the lenses...?<br>

What care do you take?<br>

regards,<br>

nde</p>