nedevermac.com

I had trouble getting the software for my Scan Dual IV to work in tiger so the chances for

making a Scan Dual III work are slim. If nothing works with the Minolta drivers, there's always

Vuescan. It works fine with OSX tiger and will support most scanners on the market.

There's actually a blurb in this months geographica section about how cast off western

clothes end up in Africa. How this affects photo editors picks, I don't know.

Somehow I always find myself at 28.

<img src="http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~nd128604/scotland/images/threeshot1.jpg">_

<img src="http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~nd128604/scotland/images/fun_30.jpg">_

<img src="http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~nd128604/miscsummer/images/buslight.jpg">

I'm an OU PJ major so hopefully I can be of some help. Right now we're in a transition

period going from the traditional film classes to almost completely digital. If you're going

to buy anything for school, it's probably best to start investing in digital gear. Last year,

most of my class dove head first into digital photography after doing classes fall quarter

on slide film and winter quarter on B&W. Those of use who knew how to use digital

cameras before spring quarter were at a distinct advantage to those who had just bought

their digital gear.

Next year looks to be a bit different because Nikon is giving us a bunch of d70s with

lenses and other a few d2hs and d2xs for the check out room. At least as I understand it,

this will allow them to do some of the introductory classes in digital with students that

aren't ready to shell out $4000 for a whole digital kit.

As long as I'm on the whole digital thing, I'd suggest you look at wider lenses because

even if you don't get a digital slr right now (though I'd suggest you do), your lenses will

probably end up on a camera with the 1.5x crop factor. Something would like a 17-35mm

would probably be good and in fact, one of my friends is trying to get rid of his because

he's shooting Canon now.

It was for an annual photojournalism contest so it's not a normally distributed book. The

contest's website is www.poyi.org and you can look around there and maybe inquire to see if

they still have any old books sitting around.

Look in the 56th POYi contest book if you can find it. As far as I know, that's the only book

those photos were published in.

Another thing is that Macworld marks down the d70s for having control interlocks and a

larger body but marks down the Rebel XT for having no interlocks and a too-small body.

This seems to be a fairly widespread problem. Mine was stiff but not exceptionally so and has

loosened with use. If it's a problem, take it back and if it's not, then just use it and wait for it

to ease up.

-Noah Devereaux

<img src="http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~nd128604/messengers/images/

6.17.05_r11_36.jpg">

<img src="http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~nd128604/miscsummer/images/

6.26.05_pride3.jpg">

I suppose I should also post a photo of my own. I really wish the pole wasn't there.

<img src="http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~nd128604/miscsummer/images/

6.26.05_pride1.jpg">

A couple things I noticed. First off, there are too many photos. I don't want to have to look at

all those photos for one or two good ones. Less is more. Second, nearly all your photos have

centered subjects. Learn to use the entire frame. Lastly, look for interesting moments. These

photos seem to mostly be people doing whatever they do in a parade. Try to take photos that

go more than skin deep and show something beyond the obvious. I hope this helps.

-Noah

<img src="http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~nd128604/messengers/images/

6.13.05_r02_07.jpg">

<img src="http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~nd128604/messengers/images/

6.24.05_r16_05.jpg">

<img src ="http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~nd128604/messengers/images/

6.24.05_r16_20.jpg">

Also, if it means anything at all, the focus and zoom rings on a 17-35 are much smoother

and imo placed more ergonomically than on the 17-55.

I bought a 17-55mm for my d70 but I bought it at a point in my life (3 months ago) where I

thought I wasn't going to be shooting much if any film. Now that my d70 is in the shop, I've

been shooting film and remembering what I liked about it. I really should have gotten a

17-35 because right now I have a $1200 piece of glass that's useless until I get my d70 back.

For me, the only thing that an f4 has on an f100 is the removable viewfinder. You can take it

off and use it as a pseudo waist level finder. It's a nice feature for taking photos from a really

low angle. That said, I have an f100 for the sake of a 70-200 vr and hail mary whenever I feel

the need for such a low angle shot.

It depends on what you're going to end up doing. I'm a photojournalism student in the

School of Visual Communication at Ohio University. The bare minumum required by the

school is a professional 35mm or digital camera with lenses wider than 35mm and longer

than 135mm, both faster than f/2.8 for photojournalism and a medium format camera

with a normal lens for commercial. The standard kit for PJ students around here is a Canon

20d with 16-35mm and 70-200mm lenses and the standard kit for commercial is a

Mamiya 645 af-d with the 80mm lens. There is also a digital back for the Mamiyas but its

use is restricted to seniors right now.

The question though is what camera to get now. For now, I'd suggest getting a 20d and a

couple small primes until you have a better idea what exactly you want to be doing. That

way you'd at least know your way around digital photography before starting school. In

school it also doesn't really matter that you have the latest gear. One of my friends still

shoots a D1 and another has been shooting black and white film. If I'm sure of anything,

it's that nobody is going to expect you to have a MF digital back until you start working

professionally.

-Noah

I'm not sure if it's normal but my 17-55 made a clicking noise right out of the box but I've

heard similar sounds coming from a couple different 17-35s and canon 16-35s. On mine,

the sound is most pronounced when it hits either end of the focus range. I'm also not

quite sure exactly what this suggested fix is. Am I supposed to sit there and rack the focus

in and out for 10 minutes?

I bought 2 touch 80-200 f/2.8 for $450 used and use it on a D70. As others have said, it's

pretty much the best you can get in a zoom within your price. It's a bargain on a pro

quality zoom. With an f/2.8 lens you'll be able to take many photos that you couldn't get

with a slower lens and you'll be astounded at how often you use it wide open.

In my unscientific tests, I've found that variations of technique made more difference than

whether I was using HC110 or D76.

Blowing his nose and taking a picture at the same time is another one of those silly HCB

myths.