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peter_arbib1

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Posts posted by peter_arbib1

    Square or Round?

    in Accessories

    Posted

    @dennisbrown,

    IE: Nikon snap-on hoods on my old Nikkors... NO WAY, Nikon did make regular screw-on hoods also, but are harder to find.(I have one for my 1972 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor S that is Nikon made for that lens). That is all I use on my older non AF Nikkors.

    Filters are OK, I shoot B&W only, (color is digital), But the palm of my hand in front of my lens when I am walking about is also good protection also, and a hard bump on my hand won't leave broken hand scratching my front element, as a shattered filter can. (A habit from the rangefinder days to protect the shutter from Sun Pin-hole damage)

    Square or Round?

    in Accessories

    Posted

    "I only use PRIMES, no need for FLOWER hoods, BTW, Flower hoods are made to save costs. the design is the least amount needed to give minimum lens shading from light."

     

    - Wrong, wrong and wrong again!

    Petal hoods are most effective with a prime lens. The cutouts are not designed to cut costs or save material, but to give a rectangular aperture when viewed by the lens.

     

    A properly designed petal hood gives maximum protection from flare, not minimal; second only to a rectangular hood of the correct dimensions, or a compendium hood fitted with a suitable matte.

     

    The efficacy of a hood is easily tested by putting a finger on its rim. If a slightly protruding fingertip can be seen in the (SLR/DSLR) viewfinder all round the hood perimeter, then the hood is doing its job properly. This can never be the case with a cylindrical or flowerpot style hood, since it gaps away from the rectangular frame outline at top, bottom and at each side. Simple geometry.

    And who makes FLOWER HOODS for Primes? generic sized in different mm screw-ins.... for 24mm, 28mm, 35mm, 40mm, 50mm, 85mm, 105mm.... FF lenses

    Square or Round?

    in Accessories

    Posted

    Nikon's old screw-in round hoods are some of the worst designs you can find. Round hoods in general are totally inefficient compared to modern petal or 'tulip' designs.

     

    At least the clip-on type can be reversed onto the lens for easy storage, and with modern lenses you've no choice but to use a bayonet type hood.

     

    WRT post-processing versus grads: IME shooting RAW does away with the need for a grad in most cases, or for multi-exposures. A second 'under exposed' layer can easily be created and selectively blended with a lighter layer. The divide can be made a complex curve that follows subject contours and the gradation can be as hard or gentle as needed.

     

    My preferred method is to use a soft-edged eraser brush to rub through from one layer to reveal another underneath. Both layers usually created from one RAW original.

     

    I only use PRIMES, no need for FLOWER hoods, BTW, Flower hoods are made to save costs. the design is the least amount needed to give minimum lens shading from light. that is why the side pedals are so small to prevent corner darkening so the upper and lower pedals can be made longer. Only good for short Zooms, because it allows the top and bottom pedals to be longer than a round hood on a short zoom could provide. But after about the 100mm (fov), Flower Hoods are not needed. The smaller pedals make sure the corners are not darkened, but they are only effective for shorter focal lengths.

    Square or Round?

    in Accessories

    Posted

    I'll match the condition of front elements of lenses I've used for half a century against anything you have used for five. I understand it is a fundamental divide, and there is no way to "convert" unbelievers, but then I really don't care.

    Flashing back to Grad ND, and Polarizers, as stated, once in a while, very useful.

     

    You're on!

    I cup the palm of my hand over the front of my lens, when just walking about.

    And I don't let my camera "swing about freely" around my neck.

    I buy all my lenses used, and I check the REAR element first.... That is where a scratch CAN affect IQ, a lot more than a front scratch can.

    The front element and block is for gathering light then guiding the light to the REAR Block., The REAR Block focuses the light on the image plane, therefore any scratches on that can affect IQ in sharpness. The FRONT element scratches affect flare mostly, a good lens hood will offset that.

    Square or Round?

    in Accessories

    Posted

    Neither

    Don't use filters....

    I do use lens hoods always, ONLY OEM Nikon Hoods! Screw In type,

    Some were hard to find because Nikon liked snap-on early on, and made some screw-on for popular lenses.

    The Screw-on for my 1971 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor S was a hard one to find. Because collectors buy then up quickly.

     

    Nikon Hoods are fluted, not straight.

    ANY Nikon DSLR bodies (10mp+) that take N/Ai Lenses w/o any modifications?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    @orsetto

    Thanks for such a thoughtful reply, You have touched on all the different issues w/o a doubt.

     

    I have used Fuji as my digital before, I had the XE-2 for a few years, then went to the X100T.

    So, If I decide to go with a digital again, I'd get a used X-Pro 2 for my Nikkors.

    A used Nikon DSLR is too crippled. The X-Pro 2 has great "focus peaking with a magnified image" and the live view is great also.

     

    I have picked my Nikkors carefully, for performous and sharpness, not speed in most cases.

    It is good to have a couple of fast lenses in usable focal lengths though. (35mm f/2 "O", 50mm f/1.4 "S")

    How to print a still from an old 35mm film

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    Are you using an enlarger to make a traditional wet print?

    Or are you going to scan the frame and print on your computer printer?

     

    With an enlarger, you will need some kind of roll-film holder setup.... 12d7632c-758e-11e5-9b7b-6791c8f7ed51.jpg

    To hold the uncut roll.

     

     

    With a scanner, you can just place the film across the scanner glass and close the lid. having the film roll rolled up on each side outside the scanner.

    Make sure you can scan a negative/positive directly on the glass

    Deleting "preview" and "smart preview" folders in Lr 7.2 SAFE?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    From what I understand, Lr builds these files when needed, So, if I delete them, Lr should rebuild them when I open a folder that I haven't edited for a long time. I do have a finished JPG of all the edited files.

     

    I could recover over 6GB of space by deleting them. Folders that I haven't used and may not open them in Lr for a while, I see no reason to save these previews.......My external hard drive has 485GB free on a 1.8TB drive.

     

    Not sure if setting a 30day limit in the setting is long enough.

     

    Advise please.

    ANY Nikon DSLR bodies (10mp+) that take N/Ai Lenses w/o any modifications?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    Just to be clear, you'll want a version with a integrated dandelion chip, because unlike Nikon bodies, Canon don't enable the electronic focus aids unless there's an electronic lens attached. I always found it weird that, with a fully manual lens on the wrong body, Canon won't focus and Nikon won't meter... The adaptors don't seem all that cheap (first hunt on B&H was about $80).

     

    You can, I believe, get replacement focus screens for a 5D. But it's a truly ancient camera these days, and much more frustrating to use than something more recent.

     

    If you're on a budget I'd honestly just get something like a D3200, if you can live with the crop. If the finder frustrates you, switch to live view for precise focus. If you need full frame then I think you're stuck with the D700 or D6x0 as an entry point, but then we're back to needing to modify the lenses.

     

    most likely.......

    ANY Nikon DSLR bodies (10mp+) that take N/Ai Lenses w/o any modifications?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    I did own an XE-2 with an FX to Nikon adapter when I owned a 24 and 50 with my FM2n

     

    Then I sold it and got a X100T, then I I needed to sell that to pay for a car repair :(

     

    I had an F2 and DP-1 that both needed a service... so after I recovered from the car repair financially, Off to Sover Wong both went.

     

    I then decided to add a few more lenses for the F2, and bought a 28/3.5 Ai, 35/2 O, and 105/2.5 P plus a DE-1 for the F2 :D

     

    I just bought a black paint 1967 Nikon F body, an using an F2 DW-1 w/o the name plate

     

    I considered another XE-2, but, the X-Pro 2 I really like, (similar to the X100T with interchangeable lenses and a newer sensor), but the used price is still too high :(

     

    So I have been considering a used Nikon DSLR, FX or DX... but, seems like focusing may be an issue with some lenses, and focusing screens are not made like the SLR screens AFAIK..

     

    Then someone suggested a Canon 5D with a cheap adapter, apparently they have better manual focusing with non-AF lenses (lol)

     

    NIkons rumored FX mirrorless sound like a $1.2K to $2k camera..... out of my few hundred dollar range......

     

    Some suggested the D700.... but again, out of my budget, o_O

    ANY Nikon DSLR bodies (10mp+) that take N/Ai Lenses w/o any modifications?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    Using a focus aid stopped down is not a big deal, did it with my Fuji X-E2,

    I have a Minolta III meter, so, I don't expect to use a meter in a DSLR.. just like how I meter with my Nikon F and F2 with the DE-1 pentaprisms

     

    If I could find the Ai kits, I would change out the mount... just don't want to cutaway the mount bob whites way... not as a collector, just not my style for a modifier.

    ANY Nikon DSLR bodies (10mp+) that take N/Ai Lenses w/o any modifications?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    On the D3200 at least there is a difference between the focus confirmation dot and the "electronic rangefinder" which actually places a scale in the viewfinder. The focus confirmation dot works with all lenses, although its accuracy is a little questionable in difficult scenes. It's pretty good most of the time, but unlike those in some higher end cameras it does not have arrows to tell you which direction to go. The rangefinder scale, which is very nice, replaces the meter in A,S and P modes when AF is switched off, but not in M mode, which means it does not appear at all for un-chipped lenses. It's a great help when manually focusing an AF lens for macros, or with chipped MF lenses, but with manual lenses all you'll get is the confirmation dot.

     

    That's good enough... I mainly use 28/35/50 on my F and F2, with a 1.5x crop.... 24/28/35, plus I am not a "wide-open" shooter, I shoot from f/8-f16, so the focus error won't show in most cases.

    ANY Nikon DSLR bodies (10mp+) that take N/Ai Lenses w/o any modifications?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    I checked, and it seems only the Df has a fold up Ai pin....Great camera, too far out my budget.

    No Dxx or Dxxx models?

     

    I own 3 N/ai lenses: 35mm f/2 Nikkor O, 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor S, 105mm f/2.5 Nikkor P

    + 2 Ai/s lenses: 24mm f/2.8 Ais, 28mm f/3.5 Ai

    I will not modify my N/Ai lenses, I use a 1967 Nikon F and 1979 Nikon F2 as my main cameras.

     

    I would like to consider an older Nikon DSLR that I can use in manual mode obviously.

    A few hundred bucks is in my budget. I thought maybe a D200 might, but no....

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