mark_ethridge

Indeed, the manual for my 7D Mk II states that GPS does function when the camera is off and can affect battery life. However, if you aren’t using this function, GPS can be disabled. I haven’t really tested to see if my Mk II has reduced battery life compared to my original 7D (and can’t anymore since the 7D was sold some time ago), but I use it pretty heavily at airshows and have never felt limited by battery life. And I use a mix of new LP-E6n batteries that came with the camera, and some leftover spare E6 batteries.

I've got the Neewer off of Ebay. As mentioned above, it's cheap and it works. Be sure to get the one that fits your camera model.

Bought this lens (Amazon had the Bower priced a lot less, for some reason) for astrophotography. Great lens for it! Can't beat the price. Glad I bought it.

EF-S lenses won't mount on a 6D. Is it a 60D maybe? If it is indeed a 6D, then the 24-105 f/4 L will be perfect. If you're looking for the 24-105 f/4 L, check your local craigslist. That lens was commonly offered as part of a kit and a lot of them go up for sale that have never left the box. Otherwise, check out KEH camera for a used one.

I agree with Glen. For printing, large files are usually better and if printing large then they are a must. If uploading to a website, they are overkill and it takes more time to upload. And if the site has a size restriction they will have to be reduced or the site will resize it and that takes even more time.

<p>I know your game is over, but if you didn't get what you needed this time, perhaps this will help for the next game.<br /> <br /> I shoot Canon, not Nikon, but I assume that your camera has an Auto ISO feature. If it were me, and the priority was to get the shot no matter what, then I would start by setting my shutter speed according to the 1/focal length rule (maybe a little slower if that's an IS/VR lens) and set for auto ISO in shutter priority. If the sideline is fairly well lit, then the pictures shouldn't be too noisy. However, if it's not as well lit as you think it is, then noise may become objectionable. That should take care of camera shake, but if you're still getting blurred subjects then slowly take the shutter speed up until you get what you want. If the images are nice and clear then you can slow the shutter speed down a little and the camera will reduce the ISO (and the noise) automatically. Certainly your lens is not particularly fast so be prepared for some relatively high ISO settings, even though your eyes tell you there's plenty of light.<br /> <br /> With Canon, in this setting where it's kind of dark, the camera will almost always set the aperture to it's fastest available stop so I'm assuming your Nikon will as well. If you can use a monopod, then that will help assuming your blurry images are a result of camera shake and not subject movement. Take a look at the pictures you have already taken (the blurry ones) and see if the entire image is blurry (camera shake) or stationary objects in the image are sharp (subject motion).</p> <p>You might also make sure that there isn't something in the foreground (most common) or background that is sharp--that would mean that you aren't focusing on the subject you want. That can easily happen if you're using all of your focus points instead of just one or a few in the area of your subject. In addition to the settings above, I would set a single focus point or a small group of points.</p>

I have to agree. I use One Shot most of the time and AI Servo when I need it, but haven't found a use for AI Focus. I haven't even tried it on my 7D-II so I don't know if it's improved over earlier versions, but I never use it. And I too really miss ECF. I found it to be a really useful feature and just might buy the first camera to re-introduce it.

<p>Yes, the ML-3 can be used with that camera and will mount to that lens without the need for an adapter (according to the manual).</p>

<p>I've always used the cheapo Canon RC-1 and it works fine. If you just want it for vibration control (so you don't have to touch the camera) for long exposures, why not just use mirror lockup with the self timer? That works, too.</p>

Best part about Canon refurbished is a full one year warranty. I just bought a 7DmkII from them. There's always going to be a better deal tomorrow. If you want or need the camera, get it and stop watching prices.

<p>Check the little silver screws that retain your tri-pod collar when it's mounted. I bought a used 70-200 f/2.8L that was as you describe. Turns out one of those three screws had backed out and was loose. Once it was tightened, that solved the problem. All of my other lenses with tri-pod collars have always been smooth.</p>

<p>If you have Canon lenses, then check to see if they are marked as EF or EF-S. Your Rebel camera can use all of Canon's EOS lenses and as long as you get another Rebel or a camera with a APS-C sensor (60D, 70D, 7D, 7DII), you can use any of the lenses you are currently using with your Rebel. However, if your lenses are marked as EF-S lenses (and I suspect as least some of them probably are), then they will not be usable on any of Canon's full frame sensor cameras (1DX, 5DII, 5DIII, 6D). EF lenses have a red dot for alignment when mounting and EF-S lenses have a white square. Tamron and Sigma both have designations for crop sensor only lenses (Di-II for Tamron and DC for Sigma) and likewise these lenses shouldn't be used on a full frame camera.</p> <p>Almost all of Canon's current cameras will be much better in low light than your XSi. I believe the 7DmkII is the current top performer among Canon's lineup for lower light performance in an APS-C sensor. However, if you really need the best low light performance, you'll have to move to a full frame camera where performance is usually considerably better. </p>

Just to rule it out, have you tried it without the filter?

The Rokinon lens is very good for night sky photography. I have the Bower branded lens (from what I understand, same lens made in the same production facility but Amazon had it cheaper than the Rokinon) and I bought it for the same purpose. Got a chance to use it a couple weeks ago when I took a trip far enough away from city lights. I was very happy with the results. For the price, it's a real gem!

<p>I have bought from KEH before and I've been generally satisfied with them. As far as what's included (camera strap, manual, body cap), that varies from item to item--probably because that's the way they bought the item. It is common for them to list multiple copies of the same item with different things included (for lenses some of them come with a hood, some with a carrying case, some with both and some with caps only). Usually, it's a few bucks cheaper when fewer extra items are included.</p>

<p>I have the 100-400L and it's a great lens, but first I would suggest you check out what Jeff Spirer and Sarah Fox said above. When you're photographing any kind of action, a high shutter speed is a must--sometimes higher than you think. And this is easy to test with the lens that you already have. Try photographing running kids, a running dog, a fast moving car and bump that shutter speed up along with the ISO. Also, if you select a high shutter speed in Tv mode, the camera is likely to select a very large aperture and that means a very narrow depth of field depending on how close the subject is. If it's moving towards or away from you, it can move out of your depth of field quickly. I don't want to talk you out of a new lens purchase, but you would be disappointed to spend a lot of money on a new lens just to see that your problem remains.</p>

<p>Depending on how long of a telephoto you're using, you really need a fast shutter speed for pictures like this. Even in great light. Looking at your image, I don't see any area in focus which leads me to think you needed a higher shutter speed. Particularly since you're 7D is more than capable of establishing great focus in this kind of light so I don't think it's a camera issue (provided you've tested your camera for focus and it checks out). Your plan of at least 1/1000 shutter speed is a good one. My guess is that all you need to do is bump up the ISO and shutter speed and you'll be much happier. If you want to rent a second body, another 7D or a 7DmkII would probably be best for wildlife with a telephoto. If you might be taking wide shots or landscapes, you may want to try a full sensor camera like a 5DmkII or 5DmkIII. You'll be surprised how different your 28-135mm or the 50mm 1.8 looks without the 1.6 crop. But do realize that lugging around two cameras with lenses attached is not easy. The camera bodies we're talking about are not featherweights and the 100-400L is quite large. Another warning: if you try the 100-400L, you're probably going to want one!<br> <br /> I have the 100-400mm (ver. 1) and have used it for whale photos on my 7D--it's a terrific combo!</p>

<p>I have a 7D and my 24-105 f/4L is without a doubt my most used lens. It's what I use as a standard walk-around lens and I have no issues at all. I will say that I usually shoot outdoors where distances are typically a little longer and light is good. I also have a 10-22 EF/S in case I do need to go wide. But on balance, I use the 24-105 most of the time. It will depend on your personal preference and what you're shooting, but I don't feel at all limited by that focal length on my 7D.</p>

I have no need for another digital camera body, and I would buy one tomorrow if Canon released one with eye controlled focus. I had a 7e and loved it. ECF always worked flawlessly for me. No idea why Canon completely abandoned that feature.

<p>One other thing that no one has mentioned yet is buffer size and burst rate of camera bodies. I upgraded from a 400d to a 7D because I like to shoot airshows and I was missing a lot of shots because of a full buffer. If you're shooting action and you anticipate needing to shoot a series of shots in a burst so that you get just the right instant captured, you'll want to make sure the camera's burst rate is high enough--if you're shooting RAW, that will really tax the cameras buffer. I can't give you advice on the bodies you have mentioned, but it might be worth it to look at a used 7D. I can tell you that a 7D coupled with an 70-200 f/2.8L is a very fast and razor sharp combination and should work very well for the conditions you're interested in photographing, provided you're not too close to the action. If a shorter focal length is required, then the aforementioned Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 or the Canon EF-S 17-55 f.2.8 would be the way to go.</p>