glen_h

This one is old, as I took the picture 49 years ago. The white bars are 5 hours and 1 hour each. The orange bars 5 minutes and 1 minute each.

So if you have a good set of AS adapters, how many can you use at once?

It seems that the brass ones that don't change voltage are available form Aliexpress,
(otherwise known as Alibaba) for a good price.

Less than half the price from other places.  I will see how fast they get here.

(They mail from China.)

I use 386 or similar in many cameras expecting Hg cells.

Those are for ones that don't use the side contact as noted above.

My actual photomic finders have worse problems than batteries, though.

I think I bought some alkaline 625 cells, but then didn't get around to using them.

For me, and most cameras, and for black and white film, they are close
enough even without Hg cells.  Maybe with an ASA adjustment.

Not so long ago, I was wondering if my D700, bought used with a low shutter count,

was working right.  It seemed that the exposure was wrong sometimes.

I found a nearby store, well known for their used items, with a D800 for $400.

Seemed a much better idea than figuring out the D700.

There are a lot of good used DSLRs out there for good prices.

There is near me a lab that does C41 for $9/roll and E6 for $12/roll,
35mm or 120, develop only.

At my current rate of about 1 roll/year, that is just fine.

DSLR scanning, for me, works well for slides, and probably black and white negatives.

For color negatives, there is the orange mask, but also the low gamma.

You have to correct for both of those.

I suspect you can get away with an 8x10 with a $200 scanner,

if you don't look too carefully.

There are used scanners that are not so bad, and not bad priced, though many
need older OS to run. 

As far as I can tell, the vericolor chemistry runs at 100F.

But then again, like some others, it might have a hardener as the first step,
at a lower temperature, that then hardens it to survive the 100F.

It is the E6 and C41 films that are designed for 100F without a hardening bath.

I found this one:

https://www.photomemorabilia.co.uk/Colour_Darkroom/MTalbert/Vericolor_Films.pdf

I am pretty sure this is from the C-22 days.  C-41 first came out for 110 film, and a little
later for other sizes. 

I believe the C-41 films are Vericolor-II and Vericolor-III. 

(The 4106 mentioned above is a VPL, tungsten balanced version of 4105.)

The link above says to use Vericolor chemistry, and not to use Ektacolor chemistry.

As well as I know, the latter is close to C-22, and don't know about the former.

I had a few years ago, a roll of VPL120, which is Vericolor II type L, a C-41 film.

I put it in a Brownie 2 model F, which is a fine 120 camera from about 100 years ago.

I then held a type F conversion filter in front of the lens.

You might get good results with C-41 chemistry at C-22 temperatures,
and appropriate adjustment of development times. Most labs probably
won't do that for you.

I suspect these days, labs don't check the notches, and just put anything
that is supposed to be color negative into C-41 chemistry.

With roll film, you have the paper backing saying C-41 or not.

It is a camera test, so he doesn't need the best results, only good enough results.

My usual rule for B&W films about ISO 100 is to use VP times.

Otherwise, a little less than the ISO 200 time should be about right.

Most often, overdevelopment gives better results than under, so you might
consider that.

Since you can see both clear and black areas, the film and processing worked.

That leaves the camera as the problem.

Before using an unknown camera, you should at least check that the shutter,
more or less, opens and closes at about the right rate.

A picture of the camera might have helped. Many old cameras use
bellows, which often get light leaks after 100 years. (or less)

The frame lines aren't quite as sharp as they should be,
suggesting that light comes through while winding.

There are plenty of old cameras, even close to 1910, that
work just fine. 

I had out a few years ago, a Brownie 2 model F, from between 1901 and 1933.

That one works fine.

Oh, many of these cameras have two shutters settings, usually I and B.

The shutter release has two positions.  In I it opens for a short time,
each time you move the knob.  In B, it stays open until you move it back.

If you are using B, you likely get results like you show, with the shutter
open much of the time.

Available light on Kodacolor 400.

The "Mine Train" ride at Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk. Taken with actual flashbulbs in about 1970.

Tree in Maui that is supposed to be still alive.

Taken with a Lomography fish-eye camera, so cheap that it doesn't have a fish-eye viewfinder!

(And the lens partly blocks the viewfinder that it does have.)

On 5/17/2024 at 6:08 PM, httpwww.photo.netbarry said:

As I recall from school days where we generally control the water temperature and would set it for recommended temp., there was some leeway on the temperature as long as you adjusted your development time accordingly, and there were work sheets for those adjustments.

At some point, the gelatin melts.

E6 and C41 run about 38C, as the films are hardened enough for it.

Some earlier color processes weren't at so high a temperature, and had a pre-hardener as the first step.

I believe black and white films take higher temperatures than they used to, though.

On 4/24/2024 at 1:31 PM, tom_halfhill said:

(snip)

 

I've developed hundreds of rolls of b&w film, but never have I used a developer whose optimum temperature was 98.6F (37C). That's 30F too hot! The characters are sitting outside in shirt-sleeves, so presumably the air temperature is much cooler than 98.6F if she needs to warm the developer. Indeed, the air temperature is probably near the developer's optimum temperature.

Ten minutes of stand development at 98.6F would seriously overcook any film I've used. But maybe she's using a temperature-tolerant monodeveloper, because she doesn't seem to have any stop bath or fixer, either. Nor any water to wash the film.

(snip)

Delta 3200 has times up to 24C, and for machine processing says 26C.
The graphs go up to 25C.

TMax-3200 has times up to 29C, and for push speeds recommends the higher temperatures.
(At 20C there are times up to 25 minutes, and that isn't stand processing!)

If they recommend up to 29C, I suspect it can survive at least a little higher than that.

There are no monobath times on the chart, though.

For monobath, the developer has to be at least a little faster than the fixer.
I am not sure how that changes with temperature.

I might believe a monobath to 37C isn't a bad idea.

Otherwise, C41 films like Ilford XP2 go to 100F, though Ilford specifically recommends not using
regular black and white developers.  Presumably it will still work at 100F if you do.

I am not so sure how consistent it was, but Kodak used to make flat field lenses with focal length in inches, and curved field in mm.

So, 4 inch or 102mm were common Kodak projector lenses.

Shortest I have is 2.5 inch, as far as I know flat field.  Nice for small rooms.

The 2 inch, lens is for 2x2 mount 110 slides.

On the right is a digital clock, with lights for 5 hours, hours, 5 minutes, and minutes.

Lit by a full moon.

High voltage DC power line on the way to Vancouver island.  (Stopped at the side of the road.)

It's a bar, so it should have bottles to play with.

VP127 from about 1967 in a Certa Dolly, a few years ago.

Fortunately for the girls, it isn't quite clear enough to identify them.

(It doesn't snow in Seattle all that often.)