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mirceaciuca

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Posts posted by mirceaciuca

  1. <p>Do not use filters for star trails.<br>

    D700, 70-200/2.8, 50 because is little and a 17-35/2.8 is enough wide for landscape or 14-24/2.8. You should take care of this lens without filters. Anyway, I guess everybody take good care of their equipament.</p>

    <p>Do you have a link or a web page with some photos?<br>

    Thank you.</p>

    <p>Good luck in your trip!<br>

    Mircea</p>

  2. <p>Hal B is right. You talk about lens like you were born to them in hand. In our country you can find a used Tokina 11-16/2.8. Tamron 17-35/2.8-4 also. And new too.<br />Tokina 12-24/4 is a good lens. I have it. Nikkor 20/2.8 too.<br />The both Tokina lens your can use it on a Fx body, without problems, with the full Fx coverage, 24x36. Just zoom at 17 mm Tokina 12-24/4 and 11-16/2.8 and you don't have vigneting anymore.<br />I do not think you wanted to get Nikkor 17-35/2.8 for your D200, because is to short zoom for Dx area. Sorry mate, I don't bealive the story. In Europe is 1000euro a used one. And this focal lengh, like I said, isn't good for Dx bodys.<br />Like someone said...amateurs are complaining about lenses.<br />Anyway, Nikkor 17-35/2.8 is a great lens. <br />Neven J. lenses are far away from Nikkor 14-24/2.8 lens price 1600e new in Europe. Sigma is 550e, Nikkor 28-75/2.8 1300e and Tamron 450e.<br />Because you use full frame think abou a street lens like 35/2. And for D200 think about a good copy of Tokina 11-16/2.8, because all the thread you talk about faster and faster lenses...and by the way 12-24/4 is a lovely lens. But some people does not apreciate what they have. Or use...maybe.<br />This people here make an effort to answer you..time, experience, etc. You should appreciate that.</p>

    <p> </p>

  3. <p>Hello ;) Great WedNEsDAy for everybody!<br />Nikon D80, 1/100, f/5.6, iso 400, Tamron 90mm f/2.8 AF Di<br>

    Ps: this photo is right from a nef file. No postprocessing.<br>

    Is a feather on the lake, with a bird shadow at the botton. The feather is the mohican and the shadow is his soul. The last one...<br>

    Thank you!<br>

    A great week for everyone!</p><div>00VfuT-217075584.jpg.95fd4f789c5f2b86d13cba9c1044efaa.jpg</div>

  4. <p>Thank you Mike Allen for the advice. I am beginner and do not think I could try them all. I can do this after many years of practice and experience.<br />The problem that I connected with developers is that outside of Rodinal others soon expire or require very careful storage. I ask an advice about this.<br />At this moment I chose to stop at xtol and hc110 and try in the future a few rolls with this developers.<br />Any advice is welcome.<br />Thank you very much for your advice and time. <br>

    I will order this days xtol or hc110 at macodirect.de, in Europe.</p>

  5. <p>You should try Tamron 90/2.8 AF or AF-S, model E272. Is a very good combo with D80. The macro raport 1:1 you will get at f/5.6. You must use 55mm filters. Is a little lazy, but all macro lens are like that. Is very sharp, it has a lovely bokeh, smooth and creamy. Nice construction, easy lens for your age. You will love it ;)<br>

    Another option is Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 AF-D, used one. 62mm filter size.<br>

    Both are nice lenses, sharp and you can find them around 400-500$ on used lens market. Maybe KEH.<br>

    I have also Nikon D80... and F100. <br>

    Btw, AF-S version from Tamron has the same speed like AF version or the difference doesn't matter.</p>

     

  6. <p>For sports and wildlife you need a good, zoom and faster telephoto lens. I recomand 70-200VR but is 1700$. Or AF-D 80-200/2.8 ED.<br>

    Canon have cheeper solution like 70-200/4 (600-800$) and 70-200/4 IS and 70-200/2.8 (1000-1200$) . Canon 7D is a nice competitor for D300.<br>

    If you don't have faster lens f/2.8-4 you must compensate with a good iso.<br>

    Btw, I am a Nikon user, but in this case we don't have a cheaper solution for tele lens.</p>

  7. <p>Take a 70-200VR and if you want macro lens you canon use a Canon 500D filter, 77mm. It gives you nice results with 70-200VR and you don't need macro lens.<br>

    I have a Tamron 90/2.8 for macro and a Nikon 105/2 DC for potrait. A lot of people told me to sell this lens and buy a single one - 105VR AF-S micro lens. I can combine two lens in one. But like Jerry told before, macro lens is for macro photography, not for portrait.<br>

    Maybe you can use a macro lens with a soft filter. I don't know, I never used this kind of filters. But maybe is an option for you.</p>

  8. <p>Why don't you take a used Nikon D300? Price is not more than 1000-1200$, with almost 5000-30.000 shots. Or a new D90, if you want video options.<br>

    I don't like 18-105VR. Take a single good lens first, maybe a Nikon 16-85VR AF-S or Tamron 17-50/2.8 AF or AF-S or with VC (but it has a higher price with VC=VR) and a cheap and very good lens like 50/1.8 AF-D (120$). So you have two lens to start your life with Nikon.<br>

    After that you can complete with 70-300VR AF-S, 80-200/2.8 AF-D ED, 70-200/2.8 VR AF-S, etc...<br>

    Good luck!</p>

     

  9. <p>Paul, you should try this link before you buy any Agfa or Rollei ASA 100, even is not in UK, but is in Europe.<br>

    <a href="http://macodirect.de/rollei-retro-13536br20-filme-ablauf-2012-p-1691.html">http://macodirect.de/rollei-retro-13536br20-filme-ablauf-2012-p-1691.html</a><br>

    29.80 euro for 20 rolls of film, this is a 1.49euro/roll. And a lot of offers.<br>

    And from UK I found Uk Fuji Labs, with good prices for Fuji film. <a href="http://www.fujilab.co.uk/catalog/index.php">http://www.fujilab.co.uk/catalog/index.php</a></p>

  10. <p>Hello everyone,<br>

    Here I am at a turning point regarding my film development. I'm referring to the fact that I would like to use a different developer than Rodinal/R09 for my films, especially for those with higher ISO like Kodak Ilford HP5+ , Tri-X 400, Fuji Neopan 400 , FOmapan 400 , Rollei Retro 400 , but also lower ISO films I used to use like Rollei/Agfa APX 100, FOmapan 100 and 200 etc.<br />The reason for a different developer is to obtain less grainy negatives , mostly in the case of HP5+, Tri-X, and Neopan 400. Yes, I've heard about the well known D76, ID11 and xTOL but also some friends told me about the issues regarding the storage of these already prepared developers (stock solution). The Rodinal or R09 I use is easy to handle, prepare and has a relatively long shelf life after the bottle was open (I used one 500ml bottle for a year and still work well )<br />I must ad that I develop around 5 to 10 negaives rolls a month or two (depending on my free time).<br />As final question ... what developer would you recommend (for fine grain !) and what would be the things I should be more carefull with it/them (prepration, costs, storage).<br>

    I would like to mention that R09 is the only developer that I used.<br>

    Thank you very much.<br>

    Regards,<br />Mircea C.</p>

  11. <p>Hi</p>

    <p>Your set up is very fine. You can use for star trails those films and remove your filters (UV, ND, Skylight, etc):<br>

    - lower iso film if you want black and white, asa 50 (better) or 100<br>

    - colour film like tungsten iso 64<br>

    Here is a nice tutorial:<br>

    Part 1: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4ZgiU1JB9w">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4ZgiU1JB9w</a><br>

    Part 2: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4ZgiU1JB9w">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4ZgiU1JB9w</a><br>

    ..and for digital here is another tutorial.<br>

    <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bZbiZDAGc4">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bZbiZDAGc4</a><br>

    For IR photography you can use a IR filter, like Hoya for exemple.<br>

    <a href="http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/oef-15.html">http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/oef-15.html</a><br>

    For IR photos I advice to take R72 filter.<br>

    Sorry my english.<br>

    ps: settings are the same nikon/canon/pentax...etc. Look at tutorials.</p>

  12. <p>I am a Nikon/Canon user and Nikon has a huge lag in lenses. And if you get a Nikon lens, let me know if you have money for a beer. No. So, Nikon has/hasent, who care, both need lenses anyway.</p>
  13. <p>Keep your D200 for a future backup. Dont sell the D70. Does not worth to sell it. Think about a 70-200/2.8 VR1 maybe...or just wait. If you could do your job with what you have now, you dont need an upgrade for a body. Just wait another 6 m. In october D700 will be less than 2000$.</p>
  14. <p>Nikon D300, 50/1.4 AF-D, 1/250, f/8, D-lite Elinchrome<br>

    This is me, my brother Alex and my dog Blacky ;)<br>

    Testing D-lite at home, for fun and this is what we have - memories! This photo has not special skills, but I love it.<br>

    Thank you. Happy Smily today, this Wednesday @ photo.net! </p><div>00VUQE-209493784.jpg.8d8c24041010e93c5ed502a0f07e6f42.jpg</div>

  15. <p>Nice to meet you again this week! You all submit lovely photos again this Wednesday.<br>

    I found this days a cat and I take it home. Outside was freezing.<br /> Meet Jimmy! :-)<br>

    I forgot something:<br>

    Nikon D80, 50/1.4 AF-D, SB600, iso 400, f/4, 1/80, -1EV.<br>

    I'm glad to see photos from negatives (film) this week. I hope Santa will be good to me this year and take me a scanner :-)</p><div>00VHBE-201519584.jpg.e3e0291010243a4cd515a6a423a7a472.jpg</div>

  16. <p>Be pacient and try the new D700s or D800 in the next year. Sell the D80 and the others 2 Dx lenses.<br>

    Keep 18-200 VR for versality, VR, easy to use.<br>

    Keep 50/1.8 and take a 85/1.8 or 135/2 DC (old version, the new one will be expensive)<br>

    Keep SB900, is a good flash.<br>

    You don't need crop factor for what are you using - portraits, indoor.<br>

    If you need someting professional take 24-70/2.8 and 70-200/2.8 VRI (is 1700$, not 2000$).<br>

    Nikon 24-70@24 will be enough wider. Or you can use for trips 18-200. Nikon 70-200/2.8 VRI is just fine for what you need. Not worth the extra 7-800$ for VR2.<br>

    Why D700? For ISO, good AF, better that D300, better 3D tracking. If you need crap HD from DSLR wait for D700s or D700x or D800 or...what name would be.<br>

    Why not crop factor? You don't need it for what are you doing right now, like sport and wildlife.</p>

    <p>Or Canon 5D mark 2.<br>

    16-35/2.8 or 17-40/4<br>

    24-70/2.8<br>

    70-200/4 IS<br>

    135/2.<br>

    Good luck!</p>

    <p> </p>

  17. <p><em>Ronald</em><br>

    Next time you could try to buy from ebay a focusing screen or a local store service and with a little help from people at photo.net you can resolve your problem. 300$ is huge. You can buy a used D40 for these money.<br>

    <em>Robert</em><br>

    Maybe Peter was referring to the body that was stored in a humid area and it has mites. It could be possible. The bug is inside of the body. I should try a vaccum clear first. If not, I have to disassemble the body (such as Rick said earlier ) or send it to Germany, at Nikon Service.<br>

    Thank you again for help.</p>

  18. <p><em>Dieter</em><br>

    I try. Nothing happed.<br>

    <em>Rick</em><br>

    I don't know. I see that little latch before, but I am afraid not to broke something. I have the catalog parts, but no manual service for F100.<br>

    <em>Shun</em><br>

    100$ is to expensive. At 200$ I can find another one to ebay. I forgot to say that I buy this F100 from ebay. And I will buy again. I trust some people from whom I purchased in the past. But it does not always have luck.<br /> </p>

    <p>Thank you for your answers.</p>

  19. <p><em>Shun</em><br>

    Is not the focusing screen. That is easy to take it out.<br>

    After the focusing screen is another screen 1G780-020 (please see the pdf F100 part catalog), with 5 points and a circle. The bug is between element 6 and 7 in the picture above from wikipedia.<br>

    <em>Anthony</em><br>

    I use Giottos blower. Nothing happend.<br>

    Thank you. I will post in a few minutes a photo or two.</p>

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