Farkle-Mpls

<p>For those of you with iPhones, the MDC is available in application form from the iTunes store. I use it exclusively now as it has a built-in stop watch which offers count-down timers for development, stop, fix, wash, etc and is somewhat customizable (for agitation intervals, etc). Bummer is that I haven't found a way to adjust for the temp of the chemicals.</p>

<p>Mike,</p>

<p>If these pictures were taken with junk bin finds, then I need to start dumpster diving in your neighborhood. The pictures are great. You have a very artistic eye! Thank you for sharing and welcome to the wonderful world of B&W "do it yourself" developing. I got back into it after a 30 year hiatus just last year and I've found it to be fun and rewarding -- and thankfully -- affordable. I got my second bulk roller a couple weeks ago. With these photos, I think I'd be trying the Neopan 400 when my TMax 400 roll runs out.</p>

<p>Thanks for posting ... Happy Holidays!</p>

<p>Vincent,</p>

<p>While I'm sure that any Canon flash from that era will do for manual flash photography, any of the newer flashes that can operate in manual mode will work as well. I don't think voltage will be an issue with that old of a camera. I was using my FTb with a Vivitar 283 just a couple hours ago. These flashes will work on-camera or via PC cord.</p>

<p>I was invited to be a "second shooter" at an Adoption Day celebration in Minneapolis. While I brought my 40D for the bulk of the shots, I made sure my T90 was dangling 'round my neck too loaded up with some B&W. Nice thing about being (the perceived) professional photographer is that your subjects/models never question your gear ...</p><div></div>

<p>Test driving my new (to me) 85mm/F1.2L ... Sharp!</p><div></div>

<p>I don't have an answer to your question, Alan, but I have noticed a less severe separation in an older (LTM) 50 F1.8 Canon lens. The service guy told me it was deteriorating Canadian Balsam cement which most manufacturers used in the earlier years which caused the issue. Was that still used as a cement when the chrome nose lenses were being produced? Like you, I'm concerned about the integrity of the cement in my older lenses.</p>

<p>FWIW, I was shopping for a nFD 135/F2.0 this weekend and came upon one sample which the store clerk and I both agreed was probably early separation. Those lenses weren't produced until 1980! (Of course, the lens in question could've had a different issue but "something" was happening on the edge of the outermost lens group which was causing some discoloration. It didn't seem to have the visual fingerprint of fungus.)</p>

<p>I can't answer your question -- but -- if you've been lurking for some time and have such a wonderful old camera, how about posting some of your favorite pics in this thread? Show us what you've been able to get that IIIf to do ...! Cheers.</p>

<p>I noticed that suburban wall photo too and thought it looked relatively easy to get over ... a tall step ladder and you're good to go. However, I know I'm missing some important feature/aspect which prevented that. I doubt it would be guarded that closely in suburban areas so I'm assuming the GDR wasn't relying solely on guards' eyes and ears ... any one have any insight?</p>

<p>Today's newspaper said that 136 people were killed trying to cross the Wall. This is from a memorial near Checkpoint Charlie.</p><div></div>

<p>Part of The Wall is left as a monument ... here is a shot from 2005</p><div></div>

<p>Taken in 2005 during the weekend of the 60th anniversary of the end of WW II</p><div></div>

<p>

 

<p>I had a similar experience to Chris with Dwayne's scanning ... not at all impressed. I tossed their CD out and rescanned on a Kodachrome-profiled Plustek scanner ($350) and got much better results.</p>

 

</p>

<p>I used Gerry @ Kindermann (Toronto) for my screw mount Canons. His bread-and-butter work are thread mount Leicas though. He did a great job on my two cameras and has received consistently favorable comment on PN threads. Both times I used him, turn-around was less than one month.</p>

<p>He can be reached via eMail at service at kindermann dot ca (read that carefully, it ends in .ca not .com!) and simply address the body of the eMail to Gerry's attention. Their number is 905-940-9262.</p>

<p>Good luck. I've always wanted a IIIg -- I envy your purchase! Can you post some pics? I never tire of looking at those beautiful old Leica bodies and if it's in mint condition, that's an even better treat.</p>

<p>Mark,<br>

Similar threads have been posted in the past. Check this out:</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/canon-fd-camera-forum/00SEw8</p>

<p>... and one more ...</p><div></div>

<p>Same combo: T90, Kiron 105mm. I used TMax 100 film. Truly, the sharpest lens I have ever used (except maybe the 85mm/F1.2L). I sold my Kiron and now I'm trying to buy one back ...</p><div></div>

<p>Ted,</p>

<p>I understand your point precisely. I've just never had slides that have motivated me to WANT to get a nice drum scan! Good advise though. Thanks.</p>

<p>Larry ... your last comment made me laugh. Good way to start my work-week. Thank you. And yes, I'll remember NEVER to mention them in the same breath (or I'll take a BIG breath in-between).</p>

<p>Exactly Larry ... I rescanned the images over and over but you just can't put a Kodachrome on a digital monitor and expect it to look the same. I shot some K64 the same weekend on my M7 with a 35mm 'cron ASPH and the detail was absolutely jaw-dropping. I haven't projected anything yet but am planning to tomorrow when a co-worker and I get together for a slide show at work.</p>

<p>My wife just rolls her eyes at my slides. Got a perfectly good Canon 40D with L-series glass in the bag on the floor and what do I shoot on a "color weekend"? A 55 year old camera, expired slide film, Kodachrome which she reminds me is DEAD D-E-A-D DEAD in a year+ ... it ain't rational but there is a magic to it! And if you're reading this thread, I know I'm preachin' to the choir ...</p><div></div>

<p>Here's another (you guys are too quick for me Larry and Tom!)</p><div></div>

<p>Re-posting image ...</p><div></div>

<p>I had heard so much about the venerated K25 that I bought a roll off of eBay (exp 2002, frozen since birth), loaded it up in the Canon IID1 rangefinder which I had recently CLA'd by Gerry @ Kindermann (great job, BTW), stuck on the 50mm/F1.4 lens and went up with my Dad and cousin to north central Wisconsin to see the beginning of the Fall colors.</p>

<p>Got the film back from Dwayne's on Friday and scanned them on my cheapy scanner (profiled for Kodachrome). I was blown away. Absolutely no visible grain and colors are amazing. (Further amazing is that they were shot on a 50+ year old camera ...)</p>

<p>Besides me droning on about how wonderful my first (and only?) roll of K25 was, I have to ask the inevitable follow-on question: is there any film -- regardless of ISO -- which can produce such rich colors with virtually no grain?</p>

<p>Fortunately my wife still manages to contrive a smile and give me a nice pose once in a while (all the while wondering if this is yet another damn camera or lens being leveled at her). Ironically, one of the nicest candids I got of her was when I had my trusty old $40 Craigslist find Canon QL17 III loaded with TMax 100. I was running a roll of film through it just to give it some exercise. I had one shot to use before the roll was finished. I was walking through the living room, asked her to smile, clicked it off with the "auto" aperture setting and developed the film. Ironically, it ended up being the best shot of the roll.</p>

<p>Getting a nice shot of her like this always invites the inevitable comparison question: so if you can get a shot like that with a $40 camera, what do you need your M7 and those expensive lenses for? Those questions just sort of hang in the air for awhile ... awkwardly ...</p><div></div>

<p>It worked OK for me (Mac OS 10.6.x, Safari) but since it presents all the images as a virtual photo album, it takes awhile to build the presentation. Give it some time to load. Probably took 1-2 minutes on my iMac.</p>

<p>I really liked the images. The architectural shots inside Siam Center were engaging. The harsher elements in the street shots lent a visceral feel to the presentation and I thought were well-done too (you've inspired me to load up some B&W film for my next trip there). I enjoyed the color images at the end but I think your choice of subject matter really lent itself to B&W best.</p>

<p>BTW ... Vitsanu, what software tool did you use to create the virtual photo album? It takes time to build the album and render the images but I like the effect.</p>

<p>Thanks for sharing.</p>

<p>Alex,</p>

<p>I reported the same issues on PN 2-3 months ago. EXACTLY the same. I received advise similar to what George mentions in his post, above, and I have not had the issue reoccur (I was advised to move the ISO dial off of DX and hard-set it to the film speed). The batteries were original so I replaced those too. Unlike your situation though, my issue has not returned. I also cleaned the DX contacts in the film chamber and the back door with a microfiber cloth and light pressure (there was absolutely no visible debris on the contacts so I didn't feel any sort of solvent or cleaning agent was required).</p>

<p>I'm not sure if this is a particularly helpful post as I cannot say "do <this> and your problem will disappear" but I can validate your circumstances. I too am curious how common this issue is and I'm anxious to read other peoples' posts.</p>