jonathan_kleinfeldt1

<p>The first thing that came to mind was "The Oak Behind The House" by B.A. King.<br>

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Oak-Behind-House-Black-Book/dp/1593720297/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1295470908&sr=1-3">http://www.amazon.com/Oak-Behind-House-Black-Book/dp/1593720297/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1295470908&sr=1-3</a><br>

Not sure if that's what you're looking for.</p>

<p>The Photographer's Formulary has a kit containing PMK, dry or liquid, and the book.<br>

<a href="http://stores.photoformulary.com/-strse-28/PMK-Pyro-Metol-Kodalk/Detail.bok">http://stores.photoformulary.com/-strse-28/PMK-Pyro-Metol-Kodalk/Detail.bok</a></p>

<p>Your house lost a bedroom and gained a darkroom. And you don't understand how this decreases the house's value.</p>

<p>You've got a couple of things going on here. That pinhole diameter at that focal length will only give you an image circle of about 50mm. The angle of view would be about 98 degrees which would cause some vignetting when projected through a 1 inch hole in a 1/2 inch thick board. Enlarging the 1 inch hole will only solve part of the problem. You'll also need a longer focal length.</p>

<p>I have a Tenba shootout. I don't know offhand whether it's the medium ar large but it certainly holds a lot. I have a 35mm with motor drive, 3 lenses (1 attached), a Rolleiflex, flash, and hoods, filters, cords, etc. for both in it with room to spare. My tripod fits snugly on the outside too. With the waist harness it's very comfortable and well balanced. It fits your description exactly. The inside can be configured any way you like so you could basically use the quick access panels to access the entire inside if you like. The only limitation would be the size of the panel. I'll have to check when I get home to see if a camera body will pass through but I think it will. It also has all the weather proofing you'll ever need. The best part is, you can pop the entire inside out with your gear attached and use the bag as a regular backpack. Well worth the price as far as I'm concerned.</p>

Shooting a roll should answer all of these questions ; )

<p>freestyle<br>

<a href="http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1791367-Kodak-Tri-X-Pro-320-iso-4x5-50-sheets-TXP?cat_id=404">http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1791367-Kodak-Tri-X-Pro-320-iso-4x5-50-sheets-TXP?cat_id=404</a></p>

<p>Yesterday I went to see the new house that some friends of mine just rented. They were unpacking some of the first few boxes which consisted of smaller items like clothes, knick-knacks, and their artwork. They had stacked most of their framed artwork loosely in boxes and transported them that way. But, to my delight, the two prints of mine that they own were wrapped in newspaper, then bubble wrap, and finally packed in a box with sweaters. That made me smile.</p>

<p>Were you shooting in manual mode at all? In manual mode the camera will allow you to shoot at any speed you like regardless of the flash's max sync speed. It won't work properly at speeds faster than 1/200, but it will allow it.</p>

<p>I saw this in the window of an arts and crafts shop - thought you'd get a kick out of it.</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>I've got 3 Rolleiflex cameras, a bay I, bay II, and a bay III. I found accessories for the I and III right away but like you I had a hard time finding a lens cap and hood for a bay II. Ended up finding them here: <a href="http://www.collectiblecameras.com/">http://www.collectiblecameras.com/</a><br>

They've got a bay II hood right now that they describe as "Ugliest hood I've ever seen, but works!" It is indeed ugly - they've got the picture to prove it. But it's only 5 bucks and it might hold you over until you find a nice one.</p>

<p>Those look really nice John. I've been thinking of messing around with some paper negatives myself, albeit with a pinhole camera. Do you develop the paper negative to completion like you would a print, or do you develop by inspection?</p>

<p>Check out these forums. They should get you started. <a href="http://www.apug.org/forums/forum205/">http://www.apug.org/forums/forum205/</a></p>

<p>Agfa Rodinal is now called Blazinal. I couldn't find it at B&H or Freestyle, but they list it at Henry's.<br>

R09 is a Foma product equivalent.</p>

<p>Are you thinking of Sebastiao Salgado?</p>

I used cameraleather.com to replace the leatherette on a 2.8f. At the time, they didn't have the exact template for my camera but they were more than happy to work with me to create it. We went back and forth a couple of times over the phone discussing the knob sizes and placement, and I provided measurements for all the unknowns. When the leatherette arrived it fit absolutely perfect. I'm talking a perfect factory fit. It was easy to apply and after several years of use shows no signs of wear or peeling. High quality stuff. Highly recommended.

Check out this link - http://www.dofmaster.com/hyperfocal.html This will explain a lot. Check out the articles link on the left as well. The depth of field calculator can be quite useful. I hope this helps.

When you head to Starved Rock, make sure you take Rt. 178 through Utica and not Rt. 71 from Ottawa - 71 is closed and you can't get to the park from that direction.

Wow - I can't imagine another 5 minutes on this. Thanks for the follow up post Reinis.

Ilford recommends 13:30 at 1-9 dil. for HP5 @ EI 800. The fact sheet can be found here http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/product.asp?n=63&t=Film+Developers#

Hope this helps.

Found this on the fujifilmusa sight.

http://www.fujifilmusa.com/products/professional_photography/film/neopan_black_white/100_acros/index.html

I don't know what it is but I don't think it's a scratch. If it were a scratch it would be dark. It seems too uniform to be a light leak but who knows.