christopher_m

<p>RFF is a easy and cheap. It's $5 to run an ad and there isn't a final value fee. Usually I try there first.<br>

Ebay will take about 10%.<br>

Photo.net and apug classifieds are harder to sort between items you might be interested in and items you are not.</p>

<p>I've had to adjust the vertical alignment on my Bessa R. It isn't that hard, but make sure you have the right screw driver to remove the three screws on the hotshoe. I believe it is either a #00 or #000 Philips head, which can strip very easily. I had 2 screws that came out easily and one that was difficult.</p>

<p>Yeah, I only can think of a Olympus XA4. I think you might be able to get close to $100 if you catch the right auction.</p>

<p>Grain is quite noticeable even at 1600, but not too distracting. <br>

120 Delta 3200 at ISO 1600 from a Rollei w/ Tessar. Developed in D-76:<br>

<img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4715423231_c12ff86e15.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>After more experience, Kodachrome and flash can go very well together.</p>

<p>I have found it better overexposure on the flash setting. While many set the ISO for daylight photos at 80, with flash, I go the other direct and tell my flash it is ISO 50.</p>

<p>On other threads, people have said that old film looses 1-2 stops of speed. Normally a slower film requires less development. So should older films get less development that originally recommended?</p>

<p>I found some old exposed, never developed Plus-X film from my grandfather's. It is probably from about 1970. At the time, developing times for old Plus X calls for 5 minutes in HC-110 (dilution B) at 68F, or 10 minutes in dilution H. (I normally use Dillution H) I realize that I need to change developing times to compensate for the age. <br /><br />A few questions:</p>

<ol >

<li>How much longer should I develop the film? I was thinking about an extra 40% or 14 minutes in Dilution H at 68 F? Does that sound reasonable?</li>

<li>Would using dilution B, make a difference with older film?</li>

<li>Is it better to use a colder or warmer temperature to reduce fog?</li>

<li>Plus X from this time period was still ASA 125, right? There is no film speed marking on the film canister.</li>

</ol>

<p>Very nice test. Thanks for sharing. I have one that doesn't get much use.</p>

<p>How are you checking this exactly? Are you looking at the meter reading and then watching the aperture move with the back open? Or are you turning the camera around to watch the aperture blades.</p>

<p>If you are turning the camera round, the light behind you may be different than in front of you.</p>

<p>Is the lightmeter and the meter which controls the aperture on two different circuits?</p>

<p>Bottom line is that I don't remember seeing this with my GIII. The best way to test it may be with some slide film.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I think it is a bit high, even <em>if </em>it is in good working condition. $250 for the body, $150 for the lens, so $400 total.</p>

<p>I would placed a large discount on an "as-is, don't know if its working" camera. A CLA may easily cost $200</p>

<p>Looks like a good guide. I actually have a Electro 35 GSN for sale on eBay now. </p>

<p>I think a lot of sellers don't want to hassle in trying to figure it out, nor buy a battery. However, there is value to be added (money to be made) in figuring out if it works. Of course, some seller might like the blind ignorance. There is a large discount premium to "untested, as-is" cameras. Buyers don't want to risk buying a broken camera.</p>

<p>As time goes and more and more questions get asked, then there is more information available on the net. One may not need to post a question because it was asked last year.</p>

<p>Interesting. Is it metal?</p>

<p>Shouldn't children mean your gear gets <em>more </em>use? It does for me.</p>

<p>Comparable sales is how many things are valued, especially real estate. If you are seeing comparable sales on eBay that means the items are not that rare.</p>

<p>An item that repeatedly doesn't sell at a price isn't the right price, so you can ignore the auctions of goKevincameras.</p>

<p>If the guy walks and tried to sell elsewhere, such as eBay, he will also face eBay fees, paypal charges, which may amount to 10%, not to mention the effort involved in packaging and shipping.</p>

<p>eBay eliminates "bargain finds" such as a Leica M3 in a estate sale for $20, but it also adds reality to sellers who think their Kodak tourist folder is worth $50.</p>

 

<p>Are you familiar with depth of field? With an 80mm lens, if you focus at say 10 feet and f/5.6 only a couple feet will be in focus.</p>

<p>Longer lenses have narrower depth of field at the same focus point. If you are coming from a world of digital point & shoot cameras, they have 10mm lenses (on tiny sensors) that make everything always in focus.</p>

<p>Take your camera outside, point it at something further away, set the aperture to f/8 or so and focus it at infiniti. Everything should be in focus.</p>

<p>Great, thanks for the recommendation. After some indecision, I ordered the Metz 36 C-2 from you guys.</p>

<p>I'm looking for a flash that has a connection for a PC synch cord, plus an on-flash automatic exposure sensor. Tilt head would be a plus.</p>

<p>I want to use it with a variety of older cameras that just have a PC connection. I have one of the hotshoe/PC adapters but they make the unit quite wobbly.</p>

<p>I love my Rolleiflex. I have an Automat MV-EVS from 1955. There are a lot of models and the prices vary greatly from the models in the 50's to the ones in the 60s and 70s, but there is little technical difference between my model ($200) and newer versions ($600+) except for an outdated light meter and a Planar instead of a Tessar. The Tessar is very sharp and one would be hard pressed to tell the difference.</p>

<p>Rolleiflexes have a few bonuses over Rolleicords: crankwind, self timer, automatic shutter cocking, film loading that senses the start of the film (no need for the red window). Ikoflexes have nice lenses, but their features and functionality will be similar to that of a Rolleicord.</p>

<p>If there was a substantial price difference, it wouldn't matter but Rolleiflex Automats go for $200-$250, while Rolleicords IV, and Vs go for similar prices. You can save a wee bit with an Ikoflex ($50-$100), but I don't think you are interest in going for the cheapest.</p>

<p>Another point not mentioned, is the demand curve. How do people's willingness to buy change with price?</p>

<p>If 10,000 people are willing to pay $20,000 and 9,000 people are willing to pay $30,000, then they will likely charge $30,000.</p>

<p>This is very evident in other new gadgets such as the iPhone. When it was released, it was $600. They get all the Apple drones to pay $600. Then it got lowered to $400 and the people only willing to pay $400 bought one. Now it's $97 at Walmart. If they immediately priced it at $97, Apple would loose all the profits from those willing to pay $400 and $600. Another consideration is production capability. It would be best for Apple to have a moderate steady production.</p>

<p>If Apple set the price at $97 immediately, there would a huge demand, which would result in shortages or a huge production capability (with lots of workers), which then runs empty before you have a new product to launch.</p>

<p>Digital backs may come down in price eventually as manufacturing processes get improved, better efficiency in quality silicone, and everyone willing to pay the big bucks already has one.</p>

<p>B&H Photo sells 620 film. I think they respool their own.</p>

<p>You could do a lot better than Seagul for a lot less. I concur with the recommendation for a TLR<br>

<a href="http://photosttl.blogspot.com/2010/02/big-negatives-world-of-medium-format.html">Recommendations for a first medium format purchase.</a></p>

<p>Try this?: <a href="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost-classifieds/showproduct.php/product/22239/limit/recent">A Ricoh Diacord for $55</a></p>

<p>keh.com might be a possibility. they have a few. The cheapest body for a 7ii is $725, so I'm not sure if it is your range.</p>

<p>People that can afford an $8,000 Horseman SW612 don't try to tinker it with themselves. People tinker with cheaper cameras, like an old folding camera, a consumer SLR, or a Fed-5. Many of us haven't even seen a Horseman SW612 in person and there are few pages out there on it in general. I'm not surprised someone hasn't written a step-by-step guide on an expensive specialty camera.</p>

<p>If it is new it may have a warranty and trying to adjust it yourself may void that warranty. Leave this to the pros. The cost will be a small fraction of its $8,000 retail value.</p>

<p>I recently came across a roll of non-sentimental b&W film from 1950 s found in a camera. I blogged the <a href="http://photosttl.blogspot.com/2010/05/developing-really-old-film.html">process and results</a>:</p>

<p>To Matthew's point, there is a difference between shooting old film and then developing versus developing film shot 50 years ago.</p>

<p>I did use filmrescue for some C-22 film I found and was happy with their service. C-22 was an older color process. Another thing to keep in mind that b&w film from the 1940s may be nitrate base, which is very flammable and much better left to the pros. The film industry switched at some point in the 40s. Unless you see that it is "safety film" , I wouldn't try it yourself.</p>

<p>I wanted to try MF after being a lifelong 35mm shooter. I got a Rolleiflex Automat for <=$200 and also got a seperate light meter.</p>

<p>I have since got a couple MF folding cameras- another option, but I'd go for the TLR first. </p>

<p> </p>