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irvine.short

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Posts posted by irvine.short

    Calibrating developer & film

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Hi All,</p>

    <p>Thanks again for all the advice and insight.</p>

    <p>It seems I am going to have to leave this for the future when my darkroom is up and runnning and I have more experience to build on. I can see the skills and techniques learned in the process will be very useful.</p>

    <p>In the mean time it seems Google is my friend.</p>

    <p>There are quite a few examples of folks using Ilfotec out there, I will just have to use those as a starting point for now.</p>

    <p>Cheers,</p>

    <p>--Irvine</p>

    <p> </p>

    Calibrating developer & film

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Hi,<br>

    Thanks to all for your advice, it seems I have a lot to learn about an area of photography I had not yet considered.<br>

    I have been having deep thoughts about all of this. My initial problem is that it is going to be another few months before my darkroom is completed. Right I can only process and scan - and then only 120 as my flatbed is not really good enough for 35mm.</p>

    <p>Cheers,</p>

    <p>--Irvine</p>

     

    Calibrating developer & film

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Hi Bert,</p>

    <p>Thanks for the info. I had an idea that densitometers were not all that cheap or readily available - which has just been born out by a complete absence of them on our South African auction and classified ad web sites.</p>

    <p>On Ebay they seems to be in the order of hundreds of dollars at least, so it would seem I am looking at best for "guided trial and error."</p>

    <p>Has anyone done this?</p>

    <p>What about shooting a whole roll of the same scene with a range of tones and at the desired ASA and then cutting it into strips of 3 of 4 frames and developing at various times until it seemed "about right?"</p>

    <p>Cheers,</p>

    <p>--Irvine</p>

    <p> </p>

    Calibrating developer & film

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Hi All,</p>

    <p>I use Ilfotec HC developer, mostly because I have a 1 litre bottle of it and it is the same price as 2 1l bags of D76 out here. Given the 1:29 dilution that makes it very economical.</p>

    <p>However, while everything out there lists times for D76 not everything lists times for Ilfotec HC.<br>

    It has always worked a treat on Ilford film.</p>

    <p>However, I just got a good deal on the following films and bought some:<br>

    Rollei Retro 100 35mm (OK, I can use times for Agfa here)<br>

    Rollei Retro 400S 120 (13.5 minutes was suggested to me)<br>

    Foma 400 35mm - no idea here. According to the Foma data sheet it is really only ASA 250 - but this is fine. Exposing at 250 and using Foma's recommended times in D76 is worked very well indeed:<br>

    Hout-Bay-Harbour

    <p>Is there an easy way of calibrating all of this in a scientific way without densitometers or the like?<br>

    I also have Rollei Infrared. Is there any reason why I should not also use Ilfotec HC on this too?</p>

    <p>I did inherit a Paterson darkroom exposure gadget in a box of someone else's ex darkroom stuff but I have no idea how to use it. Would it help?</p>

    <p>Also, how would I got about experimenting with different dilutions? People seem to use Ilfotec LC29 as varying dilutions not in accordance with Ilford recommendations.</p>

    <p>Cheers,</p>

    <p>--Irvine</p>

     

    Film and air travel

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    <p>Hi,</p>

    <p>For what it's worth....</p>

    <p>I was in Hamburg in January and ordered about 50 rolls of film from macodirect.de - which arrived at the hotel that same afternoon. When I took it home the staff at both Hamburg and Frankfurt were very obliging and did not seem too bothered really. A cursory poke was enough - no X-Rays.</p>

    <p>Last year I took film to Nigeria and although they grumbled a little in Cape Town, Johannesburg and Lagos all did hand inspections for me and it was a pain as they wanted to open all the cardboard boxes.</p>

    <p>2 weeks ago I went to Cairo. This time I all ll the films (35mm) out of both their cardboard boxes and their plastic canisters and bunged the lot in a clear ziploc bag.</p>

    <p>This worked very well indeed as they could see everything and it did not slow me down at all.</p>

    <p>On my way back they insisted on me taking a picture of the floor with my camera but that was all.</p>

    <p>--Irvine</p>

     

    My stirring stick broke!

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Vlad - this is where I say "D'oh!"</p>

    <p>Although I am in South Africa so I will have to wait until someone is coming this way. I am an inveterate cheapskate (with a family as an excuse).</p>

    <p>Frank: Down here it is US$10.00 for the 1 litre packs of D76. Even if we could could get it. We pay that for a locally made D76 copy. I bought a 1 litre bottle of Ilford HC-110 for US$20.00 2 years ago and the remains are still good. At around 100 films using the developer 1 shot at 1:32 that has D76 beat on the economy scales, here anyway.</p>

    <p>Thanks guys!<br>

    --Irvine</p>

    <p> </p>

    My stirring stick broke!

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Thanks guys. I got given the Paterson widget with a box of other junk and I liked it. ;-)<br>

    I generally mix my developer in my 1 liter plastic measuring flask so if I used a spoon it would have to be a small spoon with a long handle. Not an insurmountable problem!</p>

    <p>--Irvine</p>

     

    Lost film holders for Canon 8400f

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>Hey All,</p>

    <p>The other day I got myself a Canon 8400f for about US$50.00</p>

    <p>It works well using Silverfast that came with it but the seller had mislaid the film holders, hence the price.</p>

    <p>I have had good success scanning 6x6 MF using a home made holder. I cut a couple of 6x6 holes in a sheet of 0.8mm black plastic from an art shop and used masking tape to hold it in position on the glass, then held the negs flat with the plastic from a DVD case. ;-)</p>

    <p>Now, a roll of 120 film only has 12 frames.</p>

    <p>I really do not feel like doing this for 35mm.</p>

    <p>Any other suggestions please? With the prices betterscanning.com charges I could buy a whole scanner with holders.</p>

    <p>cheers,</p>

    <p>--Irvine</p>

     

    My stirring stick broke!

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Hey All,<br>

    I know this sounds trivial but my Paterson "stirring stick" broke and I was rather fond of it.</p>

    <p>I do not mean the one that goes in the middle of the developing tank, I mean the ivory coloured one you use to mix your chemicals.<br>

    It was a very handy combo of a slotted paddle with a kind of flat potato-masher thing on the end.<br>

    Any suggestions for a replacement? It was so much more satisfying than a plain old plastic strip.<br>

    Lab supply store?<br>

    Cheers,</p>

    <p>--Irvine</p>

     

    Found An Old Rolleicord TLR

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>There's a guy in Cape Town, South Africa, who could prolly make that one look and work as good as new for a couple hundred US$.<br>

    He replaced the mirror, panelbeated the body (literally), pulled the front out in to shape again and reset the focussing etc etc for less than that after my Yashica-Mat got dropped.<br>

    --Irvine</p>

     

    Infrared in Yashica Electro 35

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Hi,</p>

    <p>Rollei 400 Infrared is what I have.</p>

    <p>You say you meter through the lens, but as you say the Electro has ATL metering so the IR filter would not be in front of the meter.</p>

    <p>So, you have your ISO set to ISO25 metering through the filter. What should I set the ISO to with ATL metering?</p>

    <p>I have a Heliopan "Infrarot 715" filter.</p>

    <p>Cheers,</p>

    <p>--Irvine</p>

     

    You forget how pretty they are...

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Nice one Rick.</p>

    <p>Shash - you said "pegging the exposure such that either the over or under exposure lights come on, and then carefully counting stops to guestimate the shutter speed the camera might be choosing."</p>

    <p>Brilliant and simple idea! Thanks Shash.</p>

    <p>I do not often care _too_ much about the shutter speed but sometimes it is handy to know if you are closer to 1/250 or 1/60</p>

    <p>Cheers,</p>

    <p>--Irvine</p>

     

    K100D batteries, please?

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p>Hi,</p>

    <p>I have a K100D and I use whatever NIMH rechargables I can get my hands on.</p>

    <p>The ordinary ones are good for hundreds of shots but will self discharge completely in a day or two.</p>

    <p>The newer Gold Peak (GP) Recyko batteries work just as well but stay charged in the camera for weeks.<br>

    http://www.gprecyko.com/</p>

    <p>Any low self discharge battery should work very well. My life was also changed by getting a fast "intelligent" charger that charges the batteries from flat to full in 60 minutes.</p>

    <p>--Irvine</p>

     

    very rough Yashica YF

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Hi All,<br /> <br /> I was recently very excited to find a Yashica YF in a box of old<br /> cameras. It came with the 50mm f1.8 Yashinon lens.<br /> <br /> Bad news is that it is missing the shutter release button and the<br /> bottom plate and it has been dropped, bending the focusing lever and<br /> jamming the focus.<br /> <br /> So, I have two options: either find the missing parts or send the<br /> camera on to someone else to use for spares. I do have a very capable camera<br /> technician here in Cape Town but no-one has seen a YF in years.<br /> <br /> Who out there might have spares, or alternatively who might be interested in buying the camera for spares?<br /> <br /> Further bad news is that I am in South Africa so shipping the camera<br /> would be expensive.<br /> <br /> Regards,<br /> <br /> --Irvine <br>

    <br /> </p>

    Foma

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Hi All,

     

    Has anyone tried developing Fomapan 100 and 400 in Ilford HC and/or Rodinal Special (apparently the same as Studional)?

     

    If so, times and dilutions would be much appreciated.

     

    I already have an open bottle of Ilford HC and Rodinal Special, I'm not that keen on mixing up a whole batch of D76 as well, it'll probably go off before I finish it.

     

    Cheers,

     

    --Irvine

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