geoff_r1
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Posts posted by geoff_r1
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<p>I've never been sure what makes the white face model desirable, apologies if I have missed something in the link above. The cosmetic difference appears to be minor. Is there a functional difference? Is it just that they are a bit newer?</p>
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<p><a title="Coogee Beach, Sydney by Geoff A Roberts, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7003/6694875229_aa4d8bb8dc_z.jpg" alt="Coogee Beach, Sydney" width="640" height="422" /></a></p>
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<p>Silverfast and Vuescan both offer software so you can run the popular scanners from Nikon, Epson etc on current macs. </p>
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<p>I was happy with this one, it could be interpretted in a number of ways, and is very different to all my other photographs. </p>
<p><a title="Sydney by Geoff A Roberts, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6056/6305434220_8e497f9607_z.jpg" alt="Sydney" width="411" height="640" /></a></p>
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<p><a title="Bondi Hotel, Bondi Beach by Geoff A Roberts, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7142/6507034145_d84f39a28f_z.jpg" alt="Bondi Hotel, Bondi Beach" width="640" height="415" /></a></p>
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<p><a title="Cooks River, Canterbury by Geoff A Roberts, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6530694833_40ddc5335b_z.jpg" alt="Cooks River, Canterbury" width="633" height="640" /></a></p>
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<p>Thanks for setting this up, I have just registered. </p>
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<p>The developer you use can affect the level of fog with old film too. HC110 is a good choice. </p>
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<p>I have been using a Ricoh GXR with Leica M mount for the a couple of weeks now, and it produces very nice images. I've been using my 21mm elmarit and 35mm summicron, there are also Ricoh lenses, but I have not used them. </p>
<p><a title="Fans, Condell Park by Geoff A Roberts, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6092/6381717849_1942bb92dd.jpg" alt="Fans, Condell Park" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
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<p>21mm elmarit with Ricoh GXR M mount</p>
<p><a title="Fans, Condell Park by Geoff A Roberts, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6092/6381717849_1942bb92dd.jpg" alt="Fans, Condell Park" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
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<p>Mine does too, I just poor carefully so it stays settled in the bottom, and it works fine. I would be interested to know why it happens?</p>
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<p>I used to own both M and R, I bought the R first due to the lower prices, but later moved to the M which suits my style of photography better. I ended up selling the R kit earlier this year to fund a large format camera. The R system is fantastic, but as I have no interest in long lenses or macro, I had pretty much doubled up on focal lengths for no real reason. <br>
In general, I think the M lenses are a little better, though certainly the R lenses are excellent. The R lenses tend to have higher build quality. I no longer follow the prices, but the lenses are not as cheap as they used to be, people are picking them up to use on digital bodies. The bodies are cheap though. <br>
I love the Leicaflex SL2, absolutely wonderful body with the features I need, and nothing more. The best SLR viewfinder I have seen. I owned an R8 as well, which had a lot of features I don't use, was big, heavy, and unreliable. The viewfinder and meter was excellent though. For a short time I had an R3, which was pretty ordinary, and also didn't work. <br>
For the metering to work on R bodies, you need 3 cam, 3rd cam only, or rom lenses. Leicaflex bodies work with 1, 2 or 3 cam lenses, the 1 and 2 cam lenses tend to be cheaper but are also older. </p>
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<p>I could be wrong, but I always thought HCB used a 50mm lens for most if not all his work. </p>
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<p>Unfortunately it does appear to be on the way out. I bought a couple of bulk rolls, and once they're gone, I'll be buying more FP4. </p>
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<p>I use Tri X rated at 1200, processed in Diafine and am pleased with the results. I rarely use Delta 3200, but it would be interesting to see what happens with Diafine, though given its tendency to increase fog, fresh 3200 is probably best. </p>
<p>Tri X at 1200, Diafine<br>
<a title="Liverpool St, Sydney by Geoff A Roberts, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6155/6164837802_0b21f18c39.jpg" alt="Liverpool St, Sydney" width="500" height="327" /></a></p>
<p> </p>
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<p>I borrowed a Zorki 3M for a week recently, it was solidly built, and the 2/50 lens, which I think is made to a Zeiss formula, was nice. I've seen some later Russian camera which were pretty dodgy, but this one was good, and a real bargain IMO. I think they go for around $100 or less. </p>
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<p>M8 is the more sensible choice as a first Leica, some people find that rangefinders are not their thing. Most Leica gear will hold its value fairly well, though if you buy an M9, you're in for a big loss. M8's have already depreciated, M9s are yet to see it, but it's just a matter of time; the moment there's even a rumour of an M10 you'll lose a substantial about. </p>
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<p><a title="Bathurst St, Sydney by Geoff A Roberts, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6090/6142164473_991b6d20d8.jpg" alt="Bathurst St, Sydney" width="327" height="500" /></a></p>
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<p>I have the pre asph 2.8/21 and Leica viewfinder, and no experience with the new 3.4. I like the external viewfinder, rough focus if fine with a lens this wide, and I tend not to use the meter in the body. The viewfinder is nice and uncluttered, and I feel free to work quickly. I used to own the Voightlander 21mm viewfinder, which I did not like because it had significant distortion, and the brightlines were always disappearing when the sun hit them at the right angle. The Leica viewfinder is worth the extra money to me. <br>
I find the 2.8 has low levels of distortion, there's a bit, but it's better than any slr lens I've owned around this focal length. I would imagine the new 3.4 has very little distortion, but I've not used it. <br>
The closest these lenses will focus is 70cm. Having said that, you will get away with being closer due to the massive depth of field, but I'm not sure you'd get away with being within inches. </p>
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<p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/geoff_roberts/6076437046/</p>
<p><a title="Bridge St, Sydney by Geoff A Roberts, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6181/6076437046_e8194c9910.jpg" alt="Bridge St, Sydney" width="318" height="500" /></a></p>
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<p>Suburban settings are absolutely valid as far as I am concerned, have a look at Martin Parr, William Eggelstone, Stephen Shore and Robert Frank. Not all their work is suburban, but they've all done quite a bit of it. They all give a sense of time and place, which is what I think street is all about. </p>
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<p><a title="Apartment Block, Petersham by Geoff A Roberts, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6071/6057424697_2346e70eb2.jpg" alt="Apartment Block, Petersham" width="325" height="500" /></a></p>
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<p>I've never used the Manfrotto geared heads, I recently picked up an Arca Swiss Cube. Expensive, but it's fantastic, and not very heavy. So easy to use, and so precise. I also tried out the new Arca geared head, the D4, which was great too, and a lot cheaper than the cube. </p>
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<p>HP5 will work nicely with a one stop push. I don't use Delta 400 regularly, so I'll leave that one for someone els. The real speed of Delta 3200 is around 1000, so it should work well at 800, it will be grainer and lower contrast than HP5. </p>
<p>Tri x is a great film to push too. </p>
What is a White Face Model?
in Medium Format
Posted