derek_thornton1

<p>I have had quite a few bad experiences with Nikon myself, that is why I am turning to Sigma. In fact, it is way overdue, I have been looking at sigma since the first "ART" 35mm. I have also paid a lot of attention to the Tamron 15-30mm F/2.8. The only Nikon lens I have that I have really been happy with is the 105mm f/2.8G.</p>

<p>Well that settles it. I will be getting the Sigma 20mm. Looks like I will have to go to a 150mm filter system, been wanting to do that for a while anyway. I am just a little worried about the 150mm square circular polarizer. Obviously you will have to turn the filter system to dial in the polarizer. If the filters are all crocked that increases the chance of vignetting. But, I could be wrong. I have never even held a square polarizing filter.</p> <p>I appreciate the responses!</p>

<p>A while back I bought a set of Vello Tubes. I used a 50mm f/1.4 with one of the tubes. It was doing the same thing, over-exposing every shot. Sure enough the blades were sticking. A couple months later I used the tubes with my 28mm lens. It started over-exposing again. I took the lens off and looked down in the tube and the freaking aperture control arm was badly bent. Luckily, it did not ruin my 28mm like it did my 50mm. I was able to swap (and pay the difference) the Vellos for some Kenkos. Nobody was willing to fix the damaged 50mm lens. I learned a couple of lessons! BTW, the bent aperture control arm bent the aperture control on the lens which is what caused the stuck blades. Believe me I spent a lot of time on that lens trying to bend the thing back to normal to free up the blades. It is one of three lenses that sit in my closet waiting for parts that are no longer sold!</p> <p>Anyway, like everyone said, it is the aperture blades. They are getting stuck some how. </p>

<p>Considering getting the Sigma 20mm ART Lens. I am wondering how well they hold up, particularly the finish. Do they scratch and chip easy? I am also wondering if the mount can be changed from Nikon to Canon in case I ever decide to switch brands?</p>

<p>Brooks, youtube is the route I am taking and it is free! And I also get free help from you guys.</p> <p>Appreciate it everyone!</p>

<p>I figured out how to move around the photo while zoomed. However, back to the zooming. When I am in the crop mode to straighten, it does not allow me to zoom at all?</p>

<p>Thanks Jeff, how about when you have the photo zoomed in and you are wanting to move the photo around?</p>

<p>I got Lightroom recently, upgrading from Elements. Elements is all I have ever used, Lightroom is not even close to the same. Anyway I am having many problems, most of all zooming. For instance, lets say I want to straighten on image and I want to use the level control to draw a line at the horizon. Well, I cant see the horizon because the photo is to small and I see no where how to zoom in on the photo so I can complete the task. The same goes for removing dust spots, I cant see them. In Elements this stuff is easy as pie!</p>

<p>Thanks Allan, Robin and everyone else. I will give the Fiesol a try, may be a while though.</p>

<p>Marnie, that is very high count for a new unit. About four years ago I bought a refurbished D600. The first thing I checked when I got it was the # of actuation's. I was expecting about 7,000+ and was shocked that it only had 300! I got a huge discount for that purchase. For all those people who do not know how to clean a sensor, I thank you! I absolutely love my D600.</p> <p>Please let us know what you did Marnie. I will start checking future purchases, if I can ever afford a new unit!</p>

<p>UPDATE: I fixed the lens this morning. It is in perfect working order, other than the 1" crack in the plastic housing.</p>

<p>Ravi, that is what I am thinking. The only way to get an estimate is to ship it to them. You can decline the job if you wish, but you still have to pay shipping. I guess I will box it up and store it in the closet until I see a "parts only"18-35mm G lens. Or I will take it apart and see if I can fix it anyway.</p>

<p>Shun, I really do like that lens myself. Other than the distortion it is great!</p>

<p>I have fixed quite a few lenses in my time, even with elements knocked out of line. And, it is very hard to spend $300.00 on something I could have done myself for $50.00 tops! </p>

<p>Went out this morning to watch the sunrise and had an accident. I thought my tripod was stable, it was only extended about 36". It fell lens first into some sandstone/mud. It broke my ND grad filter and my lens. The plastic lens barrel has a crack between the zoom and focus rings. The focus ring works fine the zoom ring only works from 18-23mm. I was able to use it and everything seems normal. However, it seems to have a bit more distortion. In the past this would have been something that I would have easily fixed myself. But, Nikon no longer sells parts to the people. This lens did not hit hard at all and broke super easy, little heads up to 18-35G users.</p> <p>Anyway I was wondering if anyone would have an idea of what this will cost to fix. The lens was $750.00 new. If it is more than $300.00 it really would not be worth fixing. I am thinking since Nikon no longer sells parts they most likely have upped their repair cost. Also, does anyone know if you can buy Sigma Parts?</p> <p>Any help appreciated,<br> Derek</p>

<p>Leszek, I have a couple of questions for you:</p> <p>1) After 5 years of use is your 3371 still tight, can you hold it by one leg without the other legs flopping around?</p> <p>2) Is it easy to tear down and are the leg lock parts durable?</p> <p>3) Have you ever had to send it back for repairs?</p> <p>The 3371 is at the top of my list. I am just a little worried about its leg locks. Thanks for the help.</p> <p>Here are my top 3 choices<br> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/848819-REG/FEISOL_CT_3371_RAPID_CARBON_TRIPOD_LARGE_CLASSIC.html<br> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1157851-REG/benro_com37cl_combination_series_3.html<br> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1158039-REG/induro_git303_3_grand_stealth.html</p> <p>Thanks for all the help,<br> Derek</p>

<p>I use mine all the time and on a wide angle! However, I never use it for the sky. Just water. I know software has come a long way but I doubt it will ever do what a polarizer can do for water without seriously degrading the image.</p>

<p>After several years of frequent use my aluminum Gitzo GT3330LS is nearing its end. I went to B&H to look at what Gitzo I could get to replace mine. All I can say is, WOW! Looks like Gitzo no longer makes aluminum tripods and they definatly do not have anything in the $500.00 range. I don't mind switching to CF, it would actually be nice not having to worry about scratching the powder coat (The legs on my Gitzo are trashed)! I just hate the extra step of having to add weight to keep it steady in a river or windy area. </p> <p>Anyway my limit is $500.00. From what I have seen there are only 3 manufactures in the $500.00 range that make a tripod without a center column, a must for me. That would be Feisol, Induro and Benro. I know nothing about these brands. What I have read looks pretty good. My question is will they hold up well? I got a tripod that sits in the closet because the legs flop around, no matter how much you tighten them and another that has a broken leg. The spider broke from just pushing the pod into some mud! I go out 3 to 4 times a week and do a lot of hiking, sometimes in areas that have no trails. It needs to be pretty durable. The largest lens I use is a 300mm with either tubes or TC. 90% of the time, just wide angle. And, I use the big Kirk Ballhead.</p> <p>The models I am looking at are:<br> Feisol CT3342 & CT3371<br> Induro GIT303 & GIT404L<br> Benro COM37CL</p> <p>If anyone has experience with any of these models please let me know how you feel about it, good or bad. Also, if I can add links to these models from B&H to this thread let me know. I dont know if that sort of thing is frowned upon here?</p> <p>Thanks for any help,<br> Derek</p>

<p>@Michael, so you are still able to control the shutter through a usb cord? Can you get autofocus in bulb mode? I take it that you use the software that you gave links to? Thanks for helping me out. I will check out the Azpen now. My wife just informed me that she can get an Iphone for free that my son dropped in the water several months ago, so I may be set.</p>

<p>Michael, can you tell me what android tablet you use? I have been using a little Apple Ipod to listen to music through my car audio system for years and have never had a problem with it. I would imagine that these little tablets are of good quality like the Ipod? Also, do you use the Triggertrap mentioned above to link your tablet with camera?</p>

<p>The Polaroid looks identical to my unit, same everything! The triggertrap looks very cool. I am quite embarrassed to say that I do not own a smart phone and this is just another good reason to get one. Thanks for the help folks! </p>

<p>I appreciate that Joe, but I am talking about the timed remotes. Like what you would use to do Star Trails. The onboard intervalometer is limited to the longest exposure your camera can handle. I am pretty sure that 30 seconds is max for all cameras. This will not work when you need 2 minute exposures.</p>

<p>Nikon does not make a Timer Remote for any of the DC2 Nikon Cameras. This includes the D610, D600, D7200, D7100 and many more.</p> <p>So, If you need a Timer Remote for a Nikon Camera with a DC2 connector you have to buy a third party product. The one that stands out the most is the Vello unit, primarily because it is sold at B&H. Since owning my D600 I have gone through 3 Vello units and I rarely even use them. I can not understand what is going on here. I treat them well and I never see bad reviews on them. The Vello unit turns on, it just does not fire, whether using it manually or timed. All three have done the same thing. I contacted Vello and they say that the have not seen this problem. My daughter owns a Nikon D5100 and it will not work on that either. Is there something wrong with my D600 causing these units to go bad?</p> <p>There are a dozen or more different brands of timer remote on the market, most look identical all, are made in China. I would like to know what brand is working well for you and how long you have been using it. All of mine quit working after about 14 months, no matter how many times I have used them. Obviously, I would like to try another brand and considering the Energizer Brand, they make good batteries.</p> <p>Any help will be appreciated,<br> Derek</p>