cole_paquette

<p>I do not believe that most super 8 cameras could read film speed.<br>

the voltage difference will not correctly run the mechamics, meaning the motor and such will be inaccurate.<br>

the shutter is usually a rotating blade connected to the film mechanism, meaning low power will usually result in poor exposure.</p>

<p>alright, that's it.<br>

the shutter on the seagull just now no longer works. I can not arm the shutter.<br>

i armed it to test the camera, and fired the shutter, then it refused to arm again.<br>

last straw here. you guys are quite right-the seagull is nothing but errors.<br>

Thanks for the help all.</p>

<p>Nice!<br>

Yeah for camera, I may go with the magic II.<br>

it has a manual setting feature, so it works like a regular rolleiflex, and it does take the special flash.<br>

luckily I found a good deal on one on ebay. will be watching it to see how much it goes to before I bid (or not, depending on price)<br>

but the magic and flash will cost me less than a rolleiflex.<br>

which amuses me.</p>

<p>I think you misinterpreted me. I checked on th old models, and they are rather rare and valuable.<br>

I hate rare and valuable things.<br>

You can't really use them, you are just more of a caretaker for the item, hoping to sell it for more than you got it. I hate having stuff I can't use because it is rare.</p>

<p>oh and about the rolleiflash, I managed to answer my own question with the instructions. I found this really useful site with a ton of camera manuals for free download, the guy does ask that if you find the stuff useful, a $3 donation would be nice.<br>

here's the link:<br>

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/</p>

<p>they have about every manual for almost every camera you could think of.<br>

It's really useful in my experience, so I am recommending it here.</p>

<p>the seagull side panels appeared to be cast as part of the body, while some of the focusing mechanism (the top rail, above the cams) looked to be accessible from the mirror area (below the ground glass and such)I already tried checking for nuts, bolts, setscrews, etc inside of the knob.<br>

the knob didn't really move, per say. I was using it when it broke.</p>

<p>I had dialed the focus out to, well, focus on the subject, when i felt, and heard, this weird thunk from the camera. from then on, the focus would no longer work.<br>

previously, the focus hadn't caught or whatever, even though i could feel and hear the thunk, just that one day, it caught, and it seems to be permanent. permanent as in there appears to be no way to fix it.</p>

<p>well, thanks everyone. I'll look around at the TLRs</p>

<p>rolleiflex for less than $250? nice price. they seem to go around $300 on ebay.<br>

someone there does have one of the original model rollei TLR (first or second model they ever made it appears)<br>

it's pretty cheap at the moment (for you classic collectors)<br>

some other guy is selling a rolleimagic with a $300 buy it now.<br>

last I checked, those were selling for less than $175</p>

<p>okay, thanks.<br>

I will take a close look at the Mamiya camera then.<br>

it's something like c220 or c330, right?</p>

<p>thanks. will most likely do that.</p>

<p>the mamiyas look neat, and useful, but I find that the portability is hampered somewhat with additional lenses.<br>

which is why I prefer a short-to medium or short to medium long zoom lens for my 35mm<br>

that way i only need to bring one lens (usually)<br>

I know someone who might have a mamiya, I'll see what they think.<br>

I know everyone who I know and have talked to about rollei have loved them, and highly recommend them.<br>

not sure if rolleiflex or rolleimagic would be better. i nkow the magic II has a manual override and a special rolleimagic rolleiflash, I happen to own a rolleiflash comb. and I would like the camera that can use it. will the magic flash take the comb. flash extension?<br>

or will i only be able to use a rolleiflex/rolleiflash for that?</p>

<p>I have a seagull TLR that has a focusing issue.<br>

the focus will not rack all the way back into the camera, and this prevents the case from closing. minor gripe, I know, but it gets worse.<br>

the focus no longer completely works either-simply put, the lens carriage moves, but the focus doesn't really change.<br>

the dial is showing infinity, which should have the lens assembly all the way back, but it is a little over 1/4" out.<br>

the dial will rotate for a little, then with this click that can be heard and felt, the dial stops with lenses full out, yet the dial is showing focus at around the 1.2 meter mark, yet it used to be able to go to, and a little past, the 1 meter mark on the dial.<br>

I opened it up (I mostly knew what I was doing. however, the focusing assembly appeared to be fine, and is quite inacessible, partially doe to location, partially due to a stripped screw on the focus hood (not my fault)<br>

the focus hood, mirror, and mirror assembly would need to be removed for better access.</p>

<p>I've been quite frustrated by this camera ever since I got it (cheaply too, I might add)<br>

I was thinking of keeping it as a conversation piece if the repair cost is too much and going with a rolleiflex.</p>

<p>it's a model 4B-1<br>

the number on the camera says 4BI-557747</p>

<p>btw, this isn't the english version. the paper in the case and the logo on the camera are all in chinese.</p>

<p>He's on public property, not in stores, so he shouldn't get banned from stores.<br>

and he IS asking permission for the photos. more than likely it's someone who saw that and disapproved, and is creating a stink that others are jumping on.<br>

I'm giving him my support.</p>

<p>Buy a Rolleiflex. they have a really versatile system, and are quite nice to use.<br>

you can buy lens hoods, light meters, flashes, underwater cases, ground glass lightmeters, etc. all are older rollei equipment, all quite cheap on ebay.<br>

don't go with a seagull. okay camera, cheap rollei alternative, regrettable. mine no longer focuses.</p>

<p>that looks like the C model series arca swiss.<br>

it is a graflok type back, or i believe the correct phrase for it would be the international style back<br>

graflok was really only for one camera line (graflex cameras)</p>

<p>but, if you want to fold your own bellows, there are several books and websites that show you how<br>

look for photo books from around the 19th century<br>

lindsaybks has some good ones with a lot of folding info</p>

<p>the only main difference between the two that i have noted is that aluminum tripods bend, and can be bent back into shape. carbon fiber just snaps.<br>

and i did have a cheap fiber tripod, got it at discount, wasn't up to the company's standads, something about an issue with the fiber that makes it of a lesser quality. wasn't too bad-until i dropped it. then it exploded. pretty loud BANG and fiber flew all over.<br>

I prefer the sturdiness of aluminum and its ease of fixing issues, and the fact it only bends.<br>

the slight extra weight isn't too bad at all.</p>

<p>Is there anyplace that sells large format lens elements (front and rear) in say, 135mm or 150mm copla #0?<br>

epray got me with bitter irony: won the lensboard, won the copal 0 shutter, lost the lens elements. go figure<br>

preferably, is there a place that isn't ebay that supplies these really cheaply?</p>

<p>in regard to the future flash and lighting, try one of the systems that offer a portable chargeable power pack, as well as a cord splitter for the flash head. if the sync is on the flash, use a y-sync cable. just have the end able to connect to your camera. ta-dah! a studio light unit if you add stands, and a portable unit if you have a flash bracket.<br>

as for taken seriously with your camera, if your skills are good enough, they would want you for your talent, not what you carry. so, just work with your camera until you know its every in and out, then start building a reputation for yourself.<br>

event photography would probably be good asis with your existing camera. the portraiture you might want a soft-focus lens, but you can always use a soft-focus filter in a universal filter holder.<br>

It seems that your basic camera needs are good, unless you want to upgrade. if you want studio and portable, try to get an all in one unit. if you love one form, invest in a high quality system for that specifically.<br>

hope that helps</p>

<p>only on applicable cameras when the lens is not in use. no lens caps on the folding camera that shields the lens (no need for one.)<br>

if the case is soft enough and can hold a lens without the caps, leave the caps off if you need speed of use/access to the lens. otherwise, leave the cap on.</p>

<p>Quote: Is that possible? Maybe with photoshop<br>

some of the auto color balance or auto levels ought to do so.<br>

just depends on the image as to which will work best.<br>

I got some results close to that with an older 4mp fuji so it should work with whatever you use.</p>

<p>watch local classified ads, as well as online ads.<br>

someone in my county has an F2 film setup with a full lens set. they only want $200 for it. sure it's film and you want digital, but there are some good deals out there.</p>

<p>Is there a noticeable difference in, say, weight, size, etc compared to a more common model?<br>

this thing sounds like quite the camera.</p>

<p>http://graflex.org/articles/auto-focus.html</p>

<p>I'm assuming you read the link already, so my question is: has anyone ever seen/used on of these? Im assuming they existed, and I am quite the fan of Graflex equipment, and was wondering about user experiences before I try to find one and the focusing back.</p>

<p>thanks.</p>

<p>well, I must admit I am quite saddened to see these films go away. No other company has produced something quite like these. I mean, really, instant film that makes a negative? slide film that takes four minutes to process at most in a small cranked box? the sheer handiness of it all made it quite nice.</p>

<p>who agrees that some other company should produce something like these? or even these?</p>

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<p>The manufacturer of the Holga camera has created three new versions of their world famous camera in 35mm format. The new models are Holga 135 (Item #167-120), Holga 135PC (Item #168-120) and Holga 135BC (Item #170-120).<br /> <br /> <strong>The Holga 135</strong> is a standard 35mm camera with similar features to the Holga 120N (item #144120) except that it includes a cable release adapter in the shutter release button. <br /> <br /> <strong>The Holga 135PC</strong> is similar except that in has a pinhole instead of a lens.<br /> <br /> <strong>The Holga 135BC</strong> is the same as the Holga 135 except that it includes an internal mask to create a soft vignetting of the corners or "bent corners" effect.</p>

<p>thanks to freestyle photo. that answer your question?</p>

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<p>developer-makes image appear<br>

stop-neutralised developer<br>

fixer-makes image stay<br>

so yeah, don't leave out the fixer</p>