snommisbor

<p>What were you using for equipment just out of curiosity? Shots were OK but all from the same location so after viewing the first few they are basically the same. Could you not move around. The ones I liked the best were when they are passing and not coming straight on. With as many bikes passing I would try to slow your shutter down and pan with the bike while taking the photo to really blur the background to give a sense of speed. You will get some out of focus ones but the ones you get would be very dramatic. But for a first time not bad.</p>

<p>And one more</p><div></div>

<p>And some Lacrosse</p><div></div>

<p>One more Little Leauge</p><div></div>

<p>Some Little Leauge</p><div></div>

<p>Good point, this is my brothers lens so I have been borrowing it. I really want to big boy 400 2.8.</p>

<p>Unfortunately I deleted tho photos on my card before I started shooting but when I say fuzzy I mean....You know how when you are shooting in the field and you want to check sharpness you look at your screen and zoom way in to check subject up close i.e. eyes, jersey #, whatever you are shooting. Well when I was shooting wide open it seemed the photos where in focus but were very soft or "fuzzy". Which when trying to crop to get closer to the action would have produced a soft or fuzzy looking photo. Maybe it was so bright it was hard to see and wasnt that soft but I didnt want to take a chance. But when I shot with a smaller f-stop and slower shutter it was much sharper where I was focusing but of course a greater DOF.</p>

<p>Whoops hit the wrong button</p><div></div>

<p>Here is the nice one same style shot</p>

<p>I shot a lacrosse game yesterday with a Nikon D300 and the Sigma 120-300 2.8 lens. I wanted to shoot wide open on A mode but shutter was firing at 1/8000 maybe 1/4000 and was just making the shots fuzzy during my setup at the JV game prior to the Varsity. So adjusting down to 5.6, 8 I was still getting a 1/2000 setting. So I just flipped it to P mode and let the camera decide because I was not wanting fuzzy pics. A few weeks earlier I shot a game at 7:00 with low warm sun just perfect shooting wide open with beautiful bokeh. <br>

My question is what do the guys on Sunday high noon shoot at to get the nice bokeh that I couldnt get yesterday.</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks for the tips, especially Doremus, you should write a book. Kari I understand the whole level adjustment that was what I did to correct those. I just prefer to get it right with the camera and not have to do that. Sort of why I have gotten back into film. It pushes me to take my time and get it right not just shoot now and PS it later. Nice to have PS to fall back on but I'm just trying to hone my craft to make it the best. Heading to Africa in less then 2 months via London so the Leica will be burning through the rolls along with my D300. Thanks again to all who responded. If anyone else have something to add feel free, thats why we are here to get better.</p>

<p>Rob</p>

<p>last example at 400</p><div></div>

<p>Another example at 100</p><div></div>

<p>Shot at 400 much less contrast</p><div></div>

<p>Don't know if the subject is correct but I will include examples. I shot a roll of T-Max 400 with my Leica M6 TTL and a 35 2 and a 90 2.8. I started the roll on 100 on the camera and realized that it should have been on 400 so I changed it being only a few shots had been used. Well when I got them back today I actually liked the ones that were shot at 100 and developed at 400 then the ones shot at 400 and developed at 400. The 100 had more contrast and deeper blacks and whites then just more of greys like the 400. If metering correctly at the correct film speed I would think it would have been the opposite. This is actually what I have been trying to achieve with B & W but would like to shoot at correct speed and develop the same. Is there something I have been doing wrong or is that just the way it is. All pics are like they were when scanned at the camera store.</p><div></div>

<p>If you bought all the software separate it would be over a 1000 dollars. Goto amazon and it is like 519. I have been trying the demos on everything except color efx pro because I have it and I think I am going to get it. Very easy to work with in CS3</p>

<p>Hey Mark,</p>

<p>I will stopping in London on my way to Africa in May for about 8 hours so I want to hit some spots around town to photo. How is the weather in late May is it cold. I am from Texas so today it was about 78 F so 50 F is cold to me. So we were wondering being most of our clothes will be checked through to Africa what we should carry on for the day in merry ole London.</p>

<p>great pics, that snow is incredible. </p>

<p>No problem William, I was looking for it myself. Still for hand held at night I am impressed. By the way I forgot to mention the lens is a 35 Summicron. 6th Street in Austin and its surrounding blocks are a great place to do some street shooting. Also the Black Cat Tattoo parlor I photograph last weekend I heard had some fire damage last night. I almost went back down there last night. That would have been exciting to photograph.</p>

<p>And the Ilford Delta 400</p><div></div>

<p>Here is a Tri X example</p><div></div>

<p>2nd </p><div></div>

<p>Well I got my first 3 rolls back from doing some street shooting at night. Here are a few examples plus a few questions: I tried 3 different films: Fuji Neopan 100 pushed to 180 (that was an accident) Ilford Delta 400 and Kodak Tri X 400 both pushed to 1250. I noticed some photos were very gray my thoughts are because I was exposing in a dark area and it was just bringing out detail which did not look good. Most are basically from the camera just a little tonal balancing to crisp it up. Every shot was handheld so I would imagine using a tripod and shooting at a slower speed would make it look even better. Let me know what you think.</p><div></div>

<p>Hey Graham, Just got into the whole rangefinder realm myself. I shoot a Nikon D300 with the 105 micro, 80-400 VR for wildlife and such, 18-200 VR for a good all round take one lens and nothing else. Also got a F4 instead of getting a expensive FX Digital so I understand where you are coming from. Let me say that I have never had so much fun shooting my Leica. It is nice to get back to the what I like to call "romance of photography". I got a M6 TTL which I chose over the M7 only because it is mechanical. The meter works great is very easy to handle and I think is a great classic choice as far as a body. I got a 35 Summicron or F/2 lens which is fantastic for low light. Everyone has told me that is the great classic combo on this site and I have to agree. My rig cost me around 2400 and I think money well spent on something of this high quality. I want to get a 50 and a 90 soon probably both Summicrons or at least the 50 and the 90 a 2.8 ( I forget what they call those) Anyway I would keep your Nikons because they do serve a purpose that the Leica won't. I know I am keeping all of mine.<br>

Good Luck and let us know what you get.</p>

<p>I just got back from shooting several rolls down on 6th Street in Austin Texas and it was a blast. Some people were amazed that I was shooting film they didnt know it still existed. Taking the rolls in tomorrow to be developed I will post some pics when I get them back.</p>

<p>Gil, that was one of the reasons I got back into film was to basically get a FF Digital. I love the 1.5 crop on my D300 for wildlife and sports but then when I want go wide or just walk around the city a film camera is a cheap alternative which I think is even better because you have the 3rd backup i.e. the actual film.<br>

Although when I say cheap with Leica I mean compared to buying a FF digital that will be obsolete in 2-3 years and worth pennies on the dollar, it is like my Rolex, sure it may cost more but resale value should you decide to get rid of it could in some cases even bring back more than you paid so it is like shooting for free or pretty close to it. (Although why would you want to sell ha ha)<br>

And after just a day the simplicity and elegance of shooting this German marvel makes me finally realize what all the hub bub is about. I will try and post some pics after I get the rolls developed next week. Heck when I was buying this my salesman said it got him excited about breaking out his M5 and shooting some film.</p>