tibz

<p>I tried that calculator and couldn't get it to work. My super 8 camera just didn't fire for some reason. Could be that you need a full short in order to get the old klunker to fire... Haven't tried it with my D50 and I don't know that I could figure out how to patch it in.</p>

<p>My grandparents live in the countryside of Pensylvania. They just got their new DTV converter box and now can only receive 3 versions of their local PBS station instead of 20 grainy stations. The range of digital is much less than analog. But the good news is the 3 versions of the PBS station are in HD to fill their 1992 4:3 SD broadcast TV.</p>

<p>Oh so it's not just my dad blasted computer.</p>

<p>1. It isn't full HD.<br>

2. The screen is 17 inches accross.<br>

3. The station variety is limited.<br>

4. No on demand.<br>

5. No couch.</p>

<p>You get the picture. Streaming online shows are very nice. Bootleg shows are great too. They don't cost nuthin.</p>

<p>By adding 120 format you may choose between the wonderful selection of ....portra. We may still hope for Ektar in 120...</p>

<p>Illford does it.</p>

<p>Doing it yourself is faster, better and cheaper.</p>

<p>Whatever you do you'll want the rollfilm adapter. There's nothing worse than having to hand feed 36 exposures of film into one of those contraptions. Imagine that times 30. Beware that that scanner is SLOW! It will take forever. What are you using for developing/printing? The Minilab's scanners will do this and they don't cost very much (relatively). I do know that the Coolscan V doesn't work with the rollfilm adaptor.</p>

<p>Try this: Get a DSLR (try an old D50 or D1) and a slide copier. Rig it so you can feed the film through it, possibly design some automatic advance. Trigger the shutter for each frame on program auto mode. Put filters between the light source and film to compensate for the orange mask. Adjust the levels/color balance in photoshop with a batch process.</p>

<p>Are you developing as a pro lab with pros that expose their film correctly? Scanning consumer film is more of a pain because there is no exposure compensation on those cameras. You have to adjust contrast.</p>

<p>It all depends on your volume. The LS-2000 boat anchor may work if you scan a roll or two a day, but a few more than that and you'll need the rollfilm adaptor and be running it 24-7-365. I use the LS-4000 which is slow and requires the preview scan before. It takes 10 minutes to scan 5 frames of film at full resolution (that uses firewire, not SCSI). Downrez it and it doesn't speed up that much.</p>

<p>Don't use viewscan. Get a legitimate scanning program. Especially if you end up scanning velvia or (god forbid) kodachrome. I can build my own color darkroom but in 2 years I can't for the life of me figure out how to disable the "scratch" reduction on viewscan, which also tries to remove shadows on velvia and kodachrome, creating an odd haloing effect. It also turns my slides purple and hypersaturates them when it applies the mandatory "color profiles" for the film.</p>

<p>For $300 I can run my color darkroom for a year. Though one thing I learned is that buying things new, especially film gear, is a mistake.</p>

<p>Whatever you do don't buy a load of crap lens that never really focuses that you end up wishing you hadn't bought and instead waited till you had enough money to buy a lens that works. Even if you can afford 3 crap lenses for the price of the expensive one, 3 useless lenses doesn't equal one useful one.</p>

<p>Don't buy crap.</p>

<p>Try a bean bag/tripod or a VR lens. The fasts lenses you can get these days are F1.2 50mm or F1.4. Add one of those to ISO 6400 on the D3 and you have your limit.</p>

<p>If there's not enough light you may either increase sensitivity (ISO ASA whatever), lengthen exposure times, open the aperture more, or add light. Those are your ONLY 4 options. Choose wisely.</p>

<p>Ask kodak? Adorama is the cheapest brand name film I've found.</p>

<p>Oh Mike, some things are too simple for complicated minds to understand.</p>

<p>I use the Pentax K1000. It's awesome. I prefer the KX because it gives you aperture and shutter speed in finder through a neat optical arrangement and the meter can be turned off. The K1000 includes an analog needle display + or - and that's it. I don't know if you want a rangefinder or what. This does not have ANY auto as opposed to the shutter priority mode on the AE-1. Have fun.</p>

<p>If you un-dedicate the flash on my D50 it syncs clear to 1/4000. You need a powerful flash though. I wouldn't reccomend it, but experimentation can't hurt.</p>

<p>Dwaynes Photo, parsons kansas.</p>

<p>You can send it to there directly or drop it off at walmart and it'll be cheaper but take longer. It all goes to Dwaynes.</p>

<p>Do not bother. This is most definitely a proprietary file and if it is not will be difficult to read if not impossible in a few years. Jpegs will always work. Whether or not it has some marginal advantage over JPEG is irrelevant.</p>

<p>Is it raw? If you can't open it in photoshop don't use it.</p>

<p>Is it a text file or thumbnail database or something like that?</p>

<p>Use an air duster. There is a filter over the CCD so if you do scratch it it could theoretically be replaced for not much money (comparatively). Somehow I think Nikon would still find a way to charge you for it though.</p>

<p>The optimal distance for portraits is 15 feet.</p>

<p>Why buy the sigma over the nikon 50mm 1.4? The sigma is much more expensive.</p>

<p>If 21.1 megapixels isn't enough for you you should look for a 4x5.</p>

<p>My school has a bunch of 5x7 size coffee cans which we use for pin hole work. It has nearly a 180 degree view because the film plane is curved, and the distortion is very interesting. Now I need to find some 8x10 coffee cans...</p>

<p>Specify "no corrections"</p>

<p>If it's been fridged since purchase and went out in 99 it's still good, and it's worth on the order of $30 a roll. The latest dates are 03, 18 months after coating ceased. That makes your film a prime candidate for the bay.</p>

<p>Speed loss is a problem with kodachrome because the re-exposures of the film during processing, if calibrated for 25 ASA film, will underexpose for a film with speed loss. The last (magenta) developer fogs the remaining halide, so if the layers have been underexposed during re-exposure, you will get an unpleasant cross development effect. That shouldn't be a problem in your case if it was stored correctly.</p>

<p>As I side note I would be willing to take that film off your hands :-D</p>

<p>That rule does not guarentee sharp pictures, but is the value at which 1/2 of the pictures taken, on average, will be sharp. It is possible to get sharp pictures below that, especially with VR, but the probability goes down and motion blur of any movement increases.</p>

<p>I personally look at the colors. When I see them reaching white or clipping, I pull the exposure back. I always end up lightening in photoshop. That was the reason I switched to film.</p>

<p>I was entirely serious about the duct tape comment. If you can hold it on you'll have a lens without metering or autofocus, just like you would have by actually mounting it on. I've held 50mm lenses backwards to my digital for macro photography. It's interesting.</p>