david_zheng1

<p>thanks all. I think I just use handle hold meter to make the shot. </p>

<p>I have a very nice Rolleiflex 3.5F and everythink works perfectly except meter which is 1.5EV off. Can I fix it? Or where I could find a new one to replace it?</p>

<p>Just make a phone call and you will find out that salesman in B&H will answer all of your questions.</p>

<p>They are not as good as Hass one. Just like what we always say ' you get what you paid for!'. By the way, you often find used one of acute matted that is not very expensive.</p>

<p>I have purchased my 810 camera several month ago. I am looking a 210mm lens now and Super-Symmar HM 210mm f/5.6 Lens w/ Prontor Shutter just available for me. But I am not sure if this is too heavy for my Canham 810 (regular wood camera), I read some people comments that lens is not for light field camera.</p>

<p>Mo, this is a normal and nothing wrong with your 2X converter. I have a brand new S18 and mint 2X and 1.4X PS version. All of them have this kind of loose part click sound. Do not worry about them.</p>

<p>Yes, it has aperture control. But not very accurate.</p>

<p>I recently purchased a lens on ebay, on the fance plate there are 'BAUSCH & LOMB OPTITICAL CO.' 'ROCHESTER, NY & NEW YORK'<br>

741<br>

PAT MAY 15, 88<br>

seller said it was 8 inch focal length. I like to know more about this len.</p><div></div>

<p>most chinese like Chamonix much better than Shen-hao and Chamonix has much better quality and design. Currently you will pay about 5800 RMB for Chamonix 45-N2 ($880) and about 4800 for Shen-hao 45 ($716). </p>

<p>I never used Unicolor, but I use expert (3010) on Jobo cpp2 that I found low speed was good enough. I usually set up lowest speed when I used expert drum.</p>

<p>if you are looking for 6X6 for street, 6008AF is too bulky. Mamiya-6 may be a good choice or there are more choices for 645 format.</p>

<p>thanks Jim, found what I am looking for.</p>

<p>I got a tube of grease for Jobo. I have a JOBO CPP2 and I do not know which part I should coat with grease. Should I put gease on tow gear wheels on both of lift and motor?</p>

<p>I have used s2a, sq-a, sq-ai and 501cm. if you only use 80mm lens, I suggest you go for sq-ai. s2a is too old and very heavy without mirror-up and multiple ex functions, when you shot with s2a, someone could be easy to hear your shutter noice from a hundred yards away. I also compared 80mm PS and 80 mm CFE, for contrast, sharpness they are almost same, for color CFE is a little bit better, but cfe had a bad flare control compared to PS, even with lens hood. PS lens has speed up to 16s and CFE has only 1S, you will find those 16s, 8s, 4s, 2s are very useful. sq-ai control is much better than 501cm and 503CW. I have used 5-6 sq-ai and never had any problems with them. If you want more lenses, such 40mm, 50mm, 180mm, 350mm, 500mm, you may consider go with zeiss lenses.</p>

<p>add two thing to this camera makes it better. one is hard case, one is lens hood with set 40.5 mm filters.</p>

<p>Remember that most 2nd hand film gears were made 20 or 30 years ago and that time China was far poor than now. 20 years ago cameras were really luxury goods and few people owned them in China, So there are much less old cameras in China than in US, Japan or Europe and their price usually is much higher. I usually bought old gears on ebay and brought them back from US to China.</p>

<p>180mm lens is rare and few people have used it. It is very sharp lens and has 1 m minimum focus distance which is really nice for portrait work. I compared it with hasselblad CF 180 side by side and they are very close in most aspects. This is the lens you should get one. I like following PS lens, 40PS, 65PS, 110 PS (F4.5 1:1) and 180PS.</p>

<p>Thanks for Paul and ohters, you just gave me the answer I wanted. I did shut at ISO 80 and 100 and I believe that pushed me to EX shoulder further. I will try to shoot at 180 or higher. I also understand that Zone system is not only way to do photograph. But I am a novice and zone system is good and easy way to follow.<br>

thanks again.</p>

<p>I shoot Ilford FP4+ 125 film and use Jobo cpp2 and PCTEA (1:50) to develop my film. According to Anal zone system, I like zone V density around 0.7 and zone VIII around 1.25-1.30. But even I got zone V around 0.75, zone VIII just about 1.20. Should I should at lower ISO such as ISO100 or ISO80 or do other adjustment?</p>

<p>This combination definitely will produce vignetting problem. I have LEE 95mm adapt ring and Bronica 40 mm PS lens which has 95 mm thread. I used single polarizer or GND filter, both gave vignetting.</p>

<p>I just got my Linhof distance scales and like to use them on my Master 2000. For my understand when I use them should do infinity focus first and pointer should point to infinity sign on scale, then I should focus closest object and now pointer points to the number on scale and this number should be aperuter I should use. But I found that on scale the farer from infinity end the smaller the number is. I feel it should be reverse way that the farer from infinity end the larger the number would be.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I think you may look for Fuji GF670 ro Bessa iii if the price is acceptable for you. I got my one and really like it so much. It has brightest view finder and quitest shutter and you can take 6X6 or 6X7 picture using it with built-in meter, it is a bit large and even larger than bessa ii which is 6X9 format. </p>

<p>I got mine mint condition with a heliopan UV filter on ebay for less than $500.</p>

<p>the image may be printed out or enlarged to 16X20 to give my friends, not commercialized. Photograph is my hobby and I do not make any pennies from it. I may bring 20-50 rolls of films or a box of 4X5 sheet (25 - 50) if I take my Linhof (not likely).</p>

<p>I will have a 7 day trip to Tibet on July and I have planned this trip for two years. But I am not sure which gears I should bring with me. Because of the altitude of Tibet, each pound will be considered. I have following gears:<br>

Nikon D700, F6 14-24/2.8, 24-70/2.8, 70-200/2.8, 85/1.8, 50/1.4 , TC-17<br>

Fuji Klasse S<br>

Fuji GF670<br>

bessa i<br>

Hasselblad 501Cm , 40CF, 50Cf, 80CFE, 150CF, 180CF<br>

Linhof 2000, 75 grandagon-n, 90 grandagon, 135 apo-sironar-s, 210 apo-sironar-s, 360 apo-ronar</p>

<p> </p>