rick_mason

<p>I know this thread is five years old but I learnt a lot from reading it and was able to rehabilitate the lightmeters on two Canonet 28's with the experience of the contributors. One had the dirty corroded brass contact on the auto mode switch (thanks Dave Swain). The other had the loose connector in the battery terminal that needed glueing (thanks Winfried). I would not have had a hope without this thread, I hope its of help to others too. Thanks again</p>

<p>How id you got with that conversion? Just curious.</p>

<p>My 2c worth, The Yashicas are good but not great. I too favour the Mamiyas but especially the C220 as they are not as big and heavy as the C330 (which I also have)plus they have that nice grey leatherette trim. The Mamiyas have the advantage of interchangeable lenses, the ability to take 220, bulb setting with cable release, bright viewfinder (Rolleicords are dark- not good, YashicaMats ok, Yashica LM (Yashikor) is dim also), plus they seem to be easily serviced. I think they have less collector attraction which is good for the shooter. On the Reflecta II, I just bought for $17 at auction (which is why I'm here checking out what I've just bought) but its most likely to be destined for the mantlepiece - not used in 30 years. I'll be curious to check it out when it arrives.</p>

 

<p>I'd be interested in these bellows (these are the tilt shift bellows right?) but do they fit the later Bronica's i.e. the SQAi?</p>

<p>what about rainwater?</p>

<p>My advice of course would be to sell it to me for $100, but seriously place it on the fleabay and the market will see you right. If you want to sell it to me contact me.</p>

<p>I just got one all working for $AUS30. No case or anything though. I was later to read the one to get is the 519 which has a faster, higher grade lens. See Karen Nakamura's Photoethnography site.<br>

Apparently the lens on this one is a bit soft and low on contrast and that pic above looks that way. Still its a good looker. I'm going to try some Velvia in it.</p>

GP3 needs 8 minutes in D76 stock solution according to ebay sellers of the stuff. The cost of buying it is $AU18.but you do have $12 postage as well so really its $30. Apparently you can use a hardener in the development to stop chipping and increase its durability. I'm goping to give it a whirl, I hope the grain is a bit less than HP5400. Photos in the flickr shanghai pool indicate that it is.

Hi

 

I've got one of these too and the green needle seems to be touching the glass (it seems to be bent upwards) . Anyhow, I need to open it up and look inside and see whats happening. I se you've got yours open. Can you tell me how to open it up without destroying it? I've taken the two back screws out but it doesn't seem to want to come apart. What next?

 

Thanks

Problems solved. I found a manual for the early Canonet QL17 thanks to Hakuna Matata. The site has a number of rangefinder manuals.

 

http://www.pentax-manuals.com/manuals/range/range.htm

 

 

The confusion for me is caused by the spring in the battery compartment (clearly visible in the manual) is missing on my Canonet. Hopefully I can replace this and get the meter to appear.

 

cheers

elwrongo

Hi

 

I'm also having trouble with the exposure meter settings on a QL17.

I've got one of the early large QL17's circa 1965. This one has no needle or numbers indicating f stops. It also has a completely different battery compartment - a screw in plate over a battery well - that seems much too big/deep for the px625 (as opposed to GIII's which had a sort of slide/lift plate for the battery). Any pointers? Will a properly installed battery make the light meter indicators and needle appear or did this model simply not have them. I hope this okay to post this here. Regards