bjscharp

First of all, thanks for all the responses.

 

@TM: I'm currently looking at GND filters for those 'bright sky dark horizon' pictures, but haven't decided on what to get yet.

 

@Randall, would a slide projector offer significantly more than a beamer with scanned images?

 

@D F: I just got a CP with my 17-40, will certainly be used :-)

 

@Roman: My guess: Sensia, Velvia, Velvia, Sensia? Last two look as if the light changed significantly between the shots though. Is that really just the film?

as for Velvia 100F, my store accidentally send me 100F instead of 100 for my first batch, so I'll be trying that out first.

 

@Jim: I was made to believe that Sensia 100 is very close to Provia 100, only cheaper. From your post I understand that was wrong?

 

@everyone else (can't reply to everyone in person): Thank you for the tips, I'll take them with me in my experiments!

 

Now, to get out of this city for some pictures...

Does anyone know if it's possible to buy the neck-strap-clip for the RC-1 IR remote

seperately?

 

I have one, but several bodies, and it's kind of awkward to keep re-threading the

neckstrap each time I take out another body.

 

Buying another RC-1 would be an option of course, but that would be a less

elegant solution.

Hey all,

 

Until now, I've always shot colour negatives (or digital), but I want to try slide film

for a change. Partly because I've seen what you can do with Velvia if you're good,

and want to use that on my next holiday, and partly because I want to try

something new and see if it offers me more than negatives. (aren't we here to live

and learn?)

 

However, reading up on things, some people make shooting slides seem like very

hard. Although I usually take everything I read online with a grain of salt, I'd like to

know if there's any common pitfalls I should worry about.

 

Stuff I've come across:

 

- Needing blue-filters for long exposures.

 

- Velvia 50 actually bein Velvia `40' -> does this apply to Velvia 100 as well?

 

- The smaller exposure allowance compared to negative film -> this seems clear,

but how best to deal with it?

 

- Shadows going to black quickly -> is this good or bad, and can/should you do

anything about it?

 

 

I'll be trying out with both Velvia and Sensia (100 ISO for both), to see if i can

actually see any difference.

 

I know this is a pretty open question, but I'm curious how other people think about

it.

 

My main target is shooting landscapes, camera will be an EOS 30. Slides will be

scanned on a Nikon Coolscan V ED

 

Thanks in advance for any hints/tips/experiences!

 

Bernard

Certainly looks good. You don't get problems with it chafing your arm after a while?

 

Do you know any stores that stock it where I can test/fit it? (preferably anywhere in the Randstad, but elsewhere would be ok)

>Re-examine the illustration of the pelican taking off used to make the point about the utter silliness of needing to keep everything center of frame to focus.

 

That's why the 1D comes with 45 AF points, not one. One flick of your thumb and you have the AF point you want. Granted, it's not as great as ECF, but it's not THAT hard.

 

As for the focus. Sure, some of them have the focus on parts of the body that might not be what you had wanted (body instead of head and such). If that's your problem with them, use MF or get an ECF camera and calibrate it well.

I often use my 400D for shooting in swimming pools.

This is both very humid, and high splash-risk. So far everything has been fine, despite the occasional splatter (no real splashes yet though).

 

I'm mostly using L or cheap lenses (50mm 1.8), so the biggest risk is to the camera.

 

You have to remember to arrive early and let your lenses and camera adjust though, they'll fog up quite badly, especially the big L-glass.

Take all your lenses out of their pouches and cases and let them warm up at least 15 minutes before shooting.

I suggest you get an EOS 3...

 

It has the same 45-point AF system, but with ECF, which is the closest to a telepathic point-selection you'll get till Canon introduces MCF (mind-controlled focussing) in the EOS 5D mkII

 

It's also a film body, which means you can correct any slight tilt of the picture (caused by you OR VF misalignment) during printing...

 

Using film also means there's no histograms and suchlike to make you think the picture isn't good. You can just look at the picture itself, and be satisfied. (or not, in which case, take another one). Cause quite frankly, my eyes don't see much amiss with either sequence of BIF shots in the middle of the article. Sure not everything on the bird is in focus. But maybe that's because the bird is bigger than the DOF?

 

And you get them for about $150 on Ebay nowadays!

Aside from the lens, the 40D will probably be a more significant upgrade from your 350D than the 450. And it'll allow you to keep your memory cards...

 

And you can always sell the lens if you don't like it :-)

And if you want to go really wide, there's always the EF-S 10-22mm...

Martijn, that Radical bag caught my attention (and I'm in the Netherlands, so that won't be a problem).

 

I was planning to hang my standard quickdraw camerabag in front of me, as Andrew and David suggested, but the temperature would indeed be a problem. That Radical looks like a much cleaner solution.

 

Can it really hold an SLR with medium sized lens? Looks like it's quite slim, what are the dimensions?

 

I'd have it contain my EOS 30 with either a 17-40 or a 50mm lens, and attach two lowepro (or other brand) lens cases to my waistband.

 

Trekpod in my hand, and off we go. :-)

Aha. All clear now, thanks

I'm seconding everything Tim just said. It's fast, accurate and build like a tank.

Just downloaded the 40D manual. Let me guess: LV == Live View?

 

In that case, I get it :-)

 

Why not just use MLU + self-timer?

<p>Wow.</p>

 

<p>I've recently been looking at a `carry-with-you' tripod. Seems I need to give those gorillas another look..</p>

 

<p>But what exactly do you mean by:</p>

<blockquote>I used LV as a sort of MLU and a 10 seconds delay</blockquote>

Wow, lot of reactions already! Thanks to all.

 

At least I feel confident to try this. Getting multiple film bodies isn't really an option (nor necessary, I have 3 fully functional ones already), as I plan to use this body while backpacking, so carrying multiple bodies will increase my weight too much. (one of the reasons I bought the 30 to replace my 650 is the smaller weight and size of the 30).

 

This way, I can swap between 100 ASA slide film and 200 ASA negative film, depending on light conditions.

 

Steve, thanks for the warning about the `creative zones', I didn't know that (and don't know if it's mentioned in the manual). Luckily, it won't be a problem, as I've never used any of my cameras in one of the idiot modes. It's usually in aperture priority, or full manual when using flash.

Richard, judging from the Sigma 30mm 1.4, the Sigma EX series is very close to Canon's L series. Canon's 50mm 1.4, while a good lens, still doesn't have an extremely stellar build quality (Not L-level, at least), and the 50mm 1.2L is VERY expensive, even compared to this lens.

 

I'm not saying the Sigma 50mm is better than Canon's (though there'll be undoubtly lots of test to check if it is), but it might provide something new: Rock solid build quality.

 

Time will tell, I'll keep watching the review sites :-)

Hi there.

 

Just got my `new' EOS 30 (Elan 7e), and been playing around with it a bit.

I must say, it feels good, and fullfills my expectations quite well. ECF is a bit of a

hit and miss, but that's propbably due to my -9 glasses :-P

 

One of the things it can do that my `old' EOS 650 couldn't is C.Fn-2: leave the film

header out after rewinding the film.

 

Now, I've read in several places that this function, combined with Canon's accurate

IR film counter, makes it possible to rewind a film halfway after noting down the

current frame, remove it from the camera, use another (faster/slower/BW) film for a

while, and then replace the partial roll and resume it from where you left of.

 

Now, personally I would do this by putting the lens cap on, setting the camera in

all-manual, set shutter to 1/4000 and aperture to the smallest pinhole, then press

the shutter x times.

 

How many people have experience with this, and how reliable is it?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Bernard

A cheaper alternative to upgrading to a 5D would be buying the Canon EF-S 10-22mm lens. It's not as well build as the 16-35, but it is generally considered to be quite good, and well worth the money.

Click on the british flag, you'll get the site in english :-)

Note however that DC lenses still have an EF mount, not an EF-S mount.

 

You can physically mount these on FF/film bodies, but you'll get extreme (mechanical) vignetting.

 

Since most of these lenses are made for multiple brands, I don't think extreme back-focussing and damaging the mirror will be a risk (I know my 30mm 1.4 DC does not protude backwards), but this may differ between lenses.

As said before, for real off-road hiking, Film is still the way to go. I just recently got an EOS 30 for my next backpacking trip (which is, aside from the fact that it's not digital, is a better camera than my 400D).

 

Getting a good film-body second-hand to go with your (digital) lenses is dirt cheap nowadays (I got mine for 45 euros), and you won't have to worry about batteries. And I'd much rather damage a cheap second hand film body than my expensive `new' digital.

 

It also makes wide-angle a lot easier.

We were talking about limited dof, in which the 1.0 will have a slight advantage, though admittedly, not very much...

The IQ alone might not be enough to make the difference, but it's an additional stop of speed, and don't forget 3 quarters of a kilo difference in weight. Add to that the nicer OoF highlights, and I say go for it.

 

I have the 135, and it's singlehandedly responsible for my RRD... :-)

...or just clicked around a bit. I must say the EOS utility has quite a crappy user interface, so I don't blame you for not noticing it.

Well, then there's the EF 50mm 1.0 of course, it's just a bit less of a name, but the effect is the same...

 

Too lazy to jump, too lazy for manual focus. Good thing pressing the shutter isn't that much work :-D