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bjscharp

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Posts posted by bjscharp

  1. I had a simple name-less film P&S when I was a child, but I didn't really learn anything from it.

     

    I got into photography when my grandfather gave me his Miranda MS-2 SLR. Happily used that for a few years and learned the ropes. Noticed that 70% of my pictures where used for digital needs, so I bought a 400D and started building a Canon system. Just recently went back to film (bought a second hand EOS 30) for landscapes, so the circle is complete. :-)

  2. I have a Praktica CP filter that I got with my second hand 17-40L.

     

    It's probably not the best in the market, but I haven't made any shots yet where I thought: this would have been better with better equipment, which is my personal yardstick to decide if I am allowed to buy something new/better.

     

    Praktica filters are made by B+W, IIRC, though I doubt they're up to the standards of `real' B+W filters...

  3. <p><blockquote><i>Now Canon open a new level of DSLR with APS-C sensor, would it be possible that they want to move the next 50D up a level, maybe to full frame sensor to respond to the competition?</i></blockquote></p>

     

    <p>I don't think so. They are now back at the 5 levels of camera-family they had with their film bodies:</p>

    <ul>

    <li>1 series for Professionals (1V, 1D III, 1Ds III)</li>

    <li>1-digit series for semi-professionals (3, 5D)</li>

    <li>2-digit series for advanced amateurs (30V, 40D)</li>

    <li>3-digit series for amateurs (300X, 450D)</li>

    <li>4-digit series for beginners (3000V, 1000D)</li>

    </ul>

     

    <p><blockquote><i>The most important question: Will the new 10mp XS have less noise at ISO 1600 than the 10mp 40D?</i></blockquote></p>

     

    <p>I doubt it, I understand it shares the sensor of the 400D, so noise levels will be comparable to that camera.</p>

     

    <p><blockquote><i>What I don't understand is why, the XSI just came out. Its barely had a chance to get cold on the shelf. And I thought canon only announced new cameras at the 2 big expos during the year.</i></blockquote></p>

     

    <p>Maybe canon is saving the last expo for the 5D mkII (3D?)</p>

     

    <p>I'm still hoping for ECF-D :-)</p>

  4. I think people who are frustrated with using a P&S's LCD in bright sunlight will love ANY viewfinder, regardless of the magnification (if they even know what it means).

     

    All in all, nice attack from Canon, but I'm sticking to my 400D for now :-)

  5. Start with a Sigma 30mm 1.4

     

    With that, find out what you want to photograph. If you want to put more on your pictures, get something wider. If you want stuff to be bigger, get something longer.

  6. <p>Just so you know, the `L' on the end is not the same as LVL!!</p>

     

    <p>the `L' means `Long edition', and is just a longer version of the Mountaineer tripods. LVL means leveling, with the leveling center column (and more weight).</p>

     

    <p>Check out the [<a href="http://www.gitzo.com/webdav/site/gitzo/shared/gitzo_news/cataloghi/GB_GITZO_CATALOGUE_2007_INTERNATIONAL.pdf">Gitzo cataloque</a> for more details.</p>

  7. One thing I was once told is that the large diameter of the EF mount makes is easier to design lenses with a large maximum aperture. For some lenses, that could play a part.

     

     

    @ Gerald: There's no Canon 105mm, but they make a very good 135mm F2. I have it and I love it...

    Good for portraits on 35mm, and nice indoor sports lens on APS-C...

     

    And the 100mm F2.8 macro USM is also a very solid performer...

  8. @Edward: Good to know Arca switched to captive knobs as well. That one really had me worried.

     

    In that case I'll probably go for the screw-clamp, since as you pointed out they are less sensitive to the brand of plate used, and I'm planning on getting non-Arca L-plates.

     

    Thanks!

  9. I plan on getting dedicated L plates for both bodies mentioned. I'm going for Kirk over RRS though, as RRS doesn't make an L-plate for the EOS 30, and their 400D plate won't allow me to use a wired remote in portrait mode.

     

    The nodal slide would be a good idea for the money saved :-)

     

    Thanks!

  10. <p>Hey all.</p>

     

    <p>I'm planning on getting an Arca Swiss Z1 anytime soon to sit atop the new

    tripod setup I'm putting together.</p>

     

    <p>In order to facilitate landscape shooting, I want a 2nd panning head on it, and

    now I'm spoiled with choice:

    <p>I can either get the Z1 dp (dual panning) from Arca itself, or I can get it with a

    normal screw and attach a RRS PCL-1 panning head to it.</p>

    <p>Advantages of the first option are less weight on the tripod, more weight in my

    wallet (PCL-1 is over half again the Z1 in cost).</p>

     

    <p>My questions:</p>

    <ul>

    <li>Will the PCL-1 offer significant advantages over the Arca panning head? (or

    disadvantages maybe?)</li>

    <li>If I go for the Arca option, do I go for the screw-clamp or the lever-clamp? I

    would prefer something `quick', but I've heard the Arca lever-system is fragile and

    prone to being damaged.. (On the other hand, I've also heard the Arca screw is

    non-captive, and can be lost) (on the gripping hand, the PCL-1 only comes with a

    screw-clamp) </li>

    </ul>

     

    <p>Additional info:</p>

    <ul>

    <li>Head will be used on a Gitzo Carbon tripod, 2540 or 2541L most probably.</li>

    <li>I'm planning on getting L-plates from Kirk (will these fit properly in either

    option?)</li>

    <li>Camera's will be Canon EOS 30 and 400D (for now)</li>

    </ul>

     

    <p>So, a lot of questions, I hope someone has answers.</p>

     

    <p>Thanks in advance!<br />

    Bernard</p>

  11. I have the 1.4II TC, and I use it on my 135mm f2

     

    On that, it works very well, but the 135 is one of the sharpest lenses Canon makes, and I'm using a crop body (400D), so reduced corner sharpness is lost outside the sensor.

     

    A disadvantage of the Canon TC's over off-brand ones, is that canon ones only work with a select subset of lenses, most of which are L-glass, IIRC. off-brand will work with anything, but will be less sharp.

     

    YMMV

  12. @Geoff: As long as they don't do it on the automatic power-down.

     

    I wouldn't like it if I had my camera on a tripod, all ready to go, waited a little too long with pressing the trigger, and had to go back to the menu's to set MLU again. (which will probably mean re-framing the shot)

     

    I usually reset all camera settings to my own `default' before I put it back in the bag. Av @ f2.8, AWB, one-shot, ISO 200, single frame drive, MLU off, etc. It takes some disipline, but you usually have more time when putting the camera away than when getting it out of the bag...

  13. <p><blockquote>I have seen what has been talked about. In 1963 a Kodak Tour guide INSISTED it was "135" not 35mm and corrected me several times. "dizzy male blonde".</blockquote></p>

    <p>I'm afraid he/she was correct. 135 film <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/135_film">is the official name for 35mm cartridge film</a>. Unless he/she insisted it was actually 135<b>mm</b></p>

     

    <p>As for ignorant camera store people, I recall a time when I was in a rather good store, trying out some tripods, and I ended up helping another customer (a woman by the way) who was looking for a monopod, because my internet-obtained knowledge on the Manfrotto line was more extensive than what the salesperson had to offer...</p>

     

    <p>I think the problem stems from the fact that a lot of camera-store salespeople never have made anything but snapshots...</p>

  14. Have a look at the Elan 7/7E (EOS 33/30)

     

    The only differences between that one and the slightly newer model are a backlit LCD screen and E-TTL II support, and I just picked up a second hand 30 in perfect condition for 45 euros...

  15. Actually, a 400D CAN focus on two spots at the same time (sort of):

     

    Select the A-DEP setting, make sure automatic focus point selection is activated, and make sure both things you want in focus cover at least one of the focus points.

     

    There are limits to this of course (depending on the smallest aperture the lens can handle), and I doubt the kid and field could both be in focus with anything but a pinhole lens, but it might be useful in some situations.

     

    For the rest I agree that a good course on basic photography will do you much more good than new equipment at this time.

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