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gerber_van_der_graaf

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Posts posted by gerber_van_der_graaf

  1. <p>Great! From http://www.foto-z.com/blog/?p=72 I understood that the original charger cannot be used. Then, the pins for the battery will have to be connected correctly to the charger, i.e. #2 and #4. I suppose that the heat-sensitive element of the battery cannot be used by a general adapter or charger to prevent overcharging or overheating.</p>
  2. <p>That's quite interesting as these batteries (new) will become less available now Rollei its closing its doors. When not available at all anymore my 6008 camera will be useless. Do you have any idea for how long these batteries do last? I hope much longer than those of my laptop computer and cellphone: the batteries of these devices are the first thing that fail (often after 2 years already) and force me to buy a complete new computer or gsm.</p>

    <p>Are the cells AA-type or alike? Can you post a photo of the opened battery?<br>

    Gerber</p>

  3. <p>I am using the 6008 Integral 2 now for almost two years. I fully agree with the previous postings: the 6008 is a great camera, very complete and its use is logic and straightforward. It is my first MF camera but the handling is often easier than some 35mm cameras I am using. One drawback is that the system, including a few lenses, is quite havy to carry around for landscapes. But this is expected when using MF. For scanning I also would recommend the Nikon 9000.</p>

    <p>To <a href="../photodb/user?user_id=1770111">Graham Mitchell</a> : EU 1000 for a new 6008AF is really very low. I never saw them for such a price at the Internet auction sites. Where did you see this camera for such a price?</p>

  4. <p>Indeed, it is a beautifull station. Last summer I shot stereo slides of it with two Contax G2 cameras mounted side by side on an alumnium bar: beautifull! Unfortunately it is not possible to display the stereo slides on the computer screen. But watching through a viewer or projecting them with polarizing filters on asilver screen and wearing glasses makes the dimensions of this station very impressive.</p>

    <p>Very nice fotos you show us as well. Thanks for sharing them.</p>

  5. <p>Hi Jeff, I wonder if we are talking about the same: I posed my question specific for the Fujifilm 3-bath E6 process (or any other E6 kit) for colour slide developing, while Fuji Microfine is used for B&W. At least, thats what I understood after a quick search, as I never used Fuji Microfine. Correct me if I am wrong.</p>
  6. <p>Hi, I am developing now for some time my own colour slides using a 3-bath E6 kit from Fujifulm. I am using a Jobo drum processor and I am very satisfied with the results. I am always processing 4 (135 or MF) films at once, which will need 470 (say 500) ml for the drum processing. After processing, I do not re-use the chemicals anymore in order to guarantee fresh baths.<br>

    Now I have the following question. Following the manual instructions of the kit you may use 300 ml for three films in separate batches by enlarging the processing times with 30 seconds after each film. Can I safely use the 500 ml baths for a second batch of 4 films by enlarging the processing time with, say, 60 seconds? Does anyone have experiences with ageing times of E6 processes? I will ask first on this forum as testing with slide film will become quite expensive and it would be a pity if the processing with non-fresh baths would not work.</p>

    <p>Thanks in advance, Gerber</p>

  7. <p>Actually, I never have shot digital seriously. So now and then I use a digital P&S camera for taking images, but use Leica M6, R6.2 and Rolleiflex 6008 system when taking photos. I shoot for my hobby and so I may take my time for developing BW and E6 and do the printing in my darkroom, eventually scanning the negs or slides, but no prints from the digital medium. I just like film. Getting tired about all those discussions of which is better. Even worse when shooting at the street and people try to make you feel stupid or old fashioned: "Oh, you are still shooting film? Mind my words, once you will shoot digital as well".</p>

    <p>I am glad to hear so now and then on this forum here from other serious photogs that I am not alone and, even better, sometimes photogs (partly) return to the analog medium.</p>

    <p>Congrats with your Leica M and I hope you´ll enjoy it. Its a wonderfull, silent, non-intrusive camera, of which its use is simple and straightforward and the results are amazing.</p>

    <p>Gerber</p>

  8. <p>I think I would go for the original Leica balhead as it is of very simple design, but propobably of good quality and leight weight. The Markins Q-3 Traveler Ball Head might also be a nice option if you like the Arca Swiss plate system as already mentioned in a previous post. I don't own any of them, so comment is welcome to me as well.<br /> </p>
  9. <p>The summicron 90mm APO is really a beautifull lens, which I own. But I must say I am astonished by the nice image of Michael Axel. It really shows the beauty of a Leica lens and this one is well worth to consider.<br>

    In general I would say not to look too much at what is offered by your (nearest) dealer, but first consider what you really prefer to have or need: a longer (70mm or 90 mm) lens or a shorter one. Keep in mind that with the .85 you will need an additional viewer for 28mm as the frame is absent for this lens. Personally I´d opt first for a 28mm or even a 24mm lens and eventually later look for a 70mm or 90mm. But that is very personal.</p>

  10. <p>Actually I have such a small Contax flash lying around but never tested whether the TTL will work on my M6, supposing it won't. Besides, without flash photos show much more naturally, without the hard shades, bleached-out foreground and dark background. I was confronted again with the beauty of this during the last carnaval in my village. While all (professional) photogs used flash to be sure their photos will be well exposed I preferred a little bit more grain from the higher sensitive film. Well, their photos were well exposed, but not really nice due to the hard shades, while some of mine were unsharp due to the lower expore time (1/15 or sometimes 1/8). But those that are sharp, are really beautifull!</p>
  11. <p>Hi Dirk, I have just one remark. Gepe is not available in Spain anymore as well as the importation stopped. But they have their own webshop at http://gepe.com where you can order from directly all their products. The only drawback is that you have to pay 25% VAT as they are shipped from Sweden. I recently bought a couple of trays and a pack of 1000 slides for 35 mm film. Their service is good and reliable.<br>

    Gerber</p>

  12. <p>To start with developing, the easiest might be contact printing of your MF B/W negs. Buy a darkroom bulb (red or green), two or three trays, developer, fixer, a pack of paper and a sheet of glass. Cover the windows of your bathroom, and set up a table on the bath. Put a papersheet on the table, neg on top and cover it with the glass sheet. Switch on the white light for a few seconds (2 - 10, try it out). Put the paper in the developer bath for approx 2 min and after that in the fixer. Rinsing with water and you're finished. For more serious printing you put the paper in a stop bath after developing, so the fixer will not be exhausted too quickly, Its that easy! I started in this way with old negs shot by my father when I was 13 years old. Enjoy!</p>
  13. <p>Being an amateur I even would not consider going digital. Besides, I like too much watching my 6x6 the colour slides directly. Film is also an excellent medium for archiving images. Digital images may be stored on different media (Hard Disk DVD etc), but probably as an amateur even more one likes to watch his photos after 20 or more years (think about family photos). The question is whether all these digital media can be read out at that time without hassle. At least, archiving digital images is not straightforward. For slides or negatives, this is no issue. Eventually scanning of 6x6 slides is possible with good and affordable equipment (like the Nikon coolscan 8000/9000) nowadays, also for an amaeur.</p>
  14. <p>It remembers me of the very first camera (an Agfa 6x6 fold-type) I lent from my father those days I got hooked on photography during my teenage in the seventees. The camera origined from the sixtees, I think. Shooting everything and everybody. Making contact prints in a dark corner of our house. Funny a new camera will be issued now using the same concept of so many years ago. Actually I am surprized that there is a company issuing a new film camera these days of digital everything.</p>
  15. <p>Its already some years ago I printed on Ilfochrome but definitely want to pick it up again. Still have some packs of paper in the frigorator and a set of chemicals. Unfortunately the material is not sold anymore in Spain and the last lab I new in Barcelona also has stopped using it. Is it still produced or has Ilford stopped producing it? I hope it will still be available for a long time. Can anybody tell me where to get in (in Europe)?</p>

    <p>But to me its still the most beautifull print material. The colours are very stable of this paper: I cannot distinguish the colours of a photo hanging on the wall in my living room during +/- 10 years, hit everyday a couple of hours by direct sunlight, and an identical one I stored in a closed box. Marvelous material and not too dificult to print for a non -professional.</p>

    <p> </p>

  16. <p>I own two Contax G2 cameras and use them for shooting stereo slides. Therefore they are mounted side by side on a aluminium bar and connected with an electronic release cable. As such a set-up tends to become quite heavy and shooting is quite complicated in this way, I liked to have automated as much as possible, including film transport, but with the option to set in manually mode. For this purpose the G2 turned out the most optimum choice.</p>

    <p>Though the results are beautifull, thanks to the Zeiss 45mm or 28 mm lenses,I don't like the building of the camera much. The viewer is like looking through a tunnel and the switches are too weak, either their mechanical reliability (two broke off already) as the changing in the settings. Each time I take the camera-twins out of my bag I have to check all settings of both cameras. It is very easy to skip accidently one of them. Besides I think the camera is quite noisy due to the auto focus system and film transport.</p>

    <p>No, for normal shooting of people I definitely prefer the M6. No pun or flaming intended.</p>

  17. <p>I know that feeling. Having a R6.2, two R7's (currently lend one to a friend of mine to convince him) and a couple of R lenses from 28 mm to 180mm, and a M6 ttl 0.85 (black). Now I would like to add a M6 ttl 0.58 (chrome) for using with the 24mm lens. Who is keeping me off, please?</p>

    <p>Of course I do not use all my camera's of equal intensity, currently mostly the M. But having an SLR and rangefinder system is a good thing as they are used for different purposes. Also having two bodies of each system is very good as you can load them with different films or mount different lenses for 'ready to shoot'. Is this foolish? Probably it is, so keep me off purchasing an M6 ttl 0.58. Fortunately, Leica gear (at least the rangefinder system) keeps its value quite constant. The R system is a bit loosing its market value, I am afraid. But still it is great stuff to shoot with and giving unsurpassed results.</p>

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