agitater

Scotland is as full of oddball, eccentric Scotsmen as it is with sheep, heather and gorse. "Take me picture! Take me picture!" he kept shouting. It's a good thing I suppose because Loch Ness is basically a featureless, boring looking (albeit deep) lake. Nothing to see here, least of all any Loch Ness Monster (unless you count the peculiar Scotsman intefering with the photo).

The highlands and the coastlines of Scotland are covered in coarse grass, heather and yellow gorse. Sheep graze peacefully, old churches are set against the windswept coasts and life proceeds at a measured pace.

If Eilean Donan Castle is the most romantic and dramatic in Scotland, then Culzean (pronounced Kul-Ayn) Castle is surely one of the largest and most elegant. The grounds and castle are superbly kept and like Eilean Donan the castle is fully operational.

Edinburgh is a city of old contrasts. Reflections exist everywhere, if you look carefully, and always reveal some of the city's unique character.

Scotland is littered with this sort of thing. Rock walls and fences are pervasive (and useful). The longer a rock wall or fence exists, the more likely it is that wildflower seeds born by wind or birds will take root. The colours and textures caught my eye.

Some of the inspiration for so many Scottish poets and musicians is no more evident than it is in the Highlands. Walking the trails, crossing the innumerable streams and absorbing the silent calm is an unforgettable experience. This particular mrning was veiled in mists.

The total lack of significant sized trees of any kind in most of the highlands means that sheep ranchers and farmers build stone fences to mark their lands. Age, nature and the damp climate make their marks.

Here we have a cranky local shepherd near John O'Groat's, the northernmost tip of mainland Scotland. This windswept, spare land and coastline is barely good enough for sheep grazing and lobster fishing. The irritated shepherd apparently thought I'd scared off his sheep. In fact, no sane sheep would hang around the bitterly cold, wind and salt spray battered lands. The addled shepherd toddled off in a grump when he finally figured out we weren't after his flock.

One last look at the castle - a very long, lingering look - with the colourful foreground of an old, overgrown fishing dory actually left us in a good mood for the drive Glasgow.

Eilean Donan Castle is by far my favourite in all of Scotland, and one of the most dramatically romantic spots in the country. The castle sits at the head of Loch Duich which leads into Loch Alsh and then out to the North Atlantic near the Isle of Raasay and the Isle of Skye. It is the castle of Clan MacRae, noteworthy in modern times for the life and work of Canadian Lt. Col. John McRae, the doctor and poet who composed In Flanders Fields.

   "In Flanders fields, the poppies blow
    Between the crosses, row on row,
    That mark our place; and in the sky
    The larks, still bravely singing, fly
    Scarce heard amid the guns below...

    We are the Dead. Short days ago
    We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
    Loved, and were loved, and now we lie
    In Flanders fields...

    Take up our quarrel with the foe:
    To you from failing hands, we throw
    The torch; be yours to hold it high.
    If ye break faith with us who die
    We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
    In Flanders fields..."

A dramatic change in light creates a whole different sight. I think the deep blue of the coastal sky perfectly sets off the old castle. What you can't see in this photo are the near-gale force winds blowing in off the North Sea.

The North Sea coast of Scotland is dotted with castles big and small. Lindisfarne is small by most measures, but it stands stalwart against the sea today just as it did when it was first built. It beckons travelers to tour its beautifully restored rooms just as it once welcomed the families who used to live in the place.

After a light rain, the late afternoon sun shines brightly on both Edinburgh Castle high on the hill and the buses, taxi cabs and shoppers on the busy Princes and Frederick high streets.

Built on rocky hills, Edinburgh connects various levels of the city with long, traversing stairways. Each stairway is called a Close, and many of them are named after famous founders. This is a view of the city from the top of Advocate's Close looking toward the Firth of Forth, past the memorial. It's only mid-afternoon, but the the light still helps render a striking scene.

Edinburgh is a city that seems almost manicured. It is neat, lush, green, flowery and redolent of history. The old terraced row houses are now part of upscale neighbourhoods and so beautifully maintained that it's hard to believe anyone actually lives there. But people are coming and going from the wonderful houses, pursuing their lives, fussing over their gardens, the kids are racing back and forth from school, the shopkeepers are busy and life generally bustles. It's a wonderful place.

As a somewhat watery day came near to its end, we detoured on a farm lane to get a look at the beautiful Derbyshire countryside. Two women, the owners of the farm, invited us onto their lane to make some photographs. The warm haze and pallete of greens left us with the impression of a modern Constable or some pastoral painter. This is one of my favourite shots from this trip.

The remains of the ancient priory of Holy Island - more famously known as Lindisfarne in Scottish Gaelic - are remarkable for their colours and textures. Rather than making everything look harsh, the midday light filtered by scudding clouds made everything look like a finely crafted oil painting.

The late day sun about fifteen minutes before sunset is always amazing in Spring, especially in remarkable cities like Edinburgh. A light rain was followed by glorious sunshine, light mists coming in off the Firth of Forth, and the light turned as pink as a rose. The shot is made with lilacs in bloom at the edge of Princes Street Gardens at the foot of the castle hill.

The wild Scottish coast, looking out over the North Sea near Portknockie, can be as docile as a lamb. This shot made about half an hour before sunset, caught my attention because of the way the coastal rock cliffs and outcroppings contrast so vividly against the blue-green seascape.

The northeast coast of Scotland on the North Sea is raw, wild and pure. On a clear day near sunset, you can see forever. The light at sunset, with darkening storm clouds rolling toward us, kept us transfixed for quite a while. Portknockie itself is typical of Scottish fishing towns and villages - simple and unassuming.

The Holy Island of Lindisfarne is home to the old Tudor castle - Lindisfarne. The windows are covered with richly coloured, hand dyed and hand made linen curtains; a traditional cottage industry in this part of Scotland. The colours and light on the east coast of Scotland are stunning.

In a driveway next to a busy, eclectic clothing store in Kensington Market in one of Toronto's old neighbourhoods, I came across this terrific looking 1953 Buick Super Limited. It was late afternoon and the sun was just kissing the chrome. I love the lines of this thing. Big old Detroit iron.

Spadina Road below College St in Toronto has been the domain of a conglomeration of immigrant communities since the early 1900s. These days, it is a riotous mix of Hong Kong Chinese, Vietnamese, Koreans, Cools, University of Toronto students, design shops, restaurants, great produce markets, a still-noticeable Jewish merchant community, and a collection of street characters second to none. Late afternoon on a gorgeous Fall weekday brings them all out.

In an old, run down room facing busy Dundas Street West in an old neighborhood, an old man sits, wristwatch on the table in front of him. He is staring at nothing, looks occasionally at his watch, and sits quietly as people and street life pass by.

While walking along Queen Street East in Toronto, you will often see what can only be described as oddities. In this particular neighborhood, there are several significant economically strained areas. I'd say it's probably unwise to for someone to leave their apparently brand new hightops sitting outside the street door. But there they were, shiny and new, in stark contrast to the weathered, banged up and grafitti covered door.